Oh glade you found it helpful. I want to talk on my videos about how to do the job right and show challenges you may have on the jobs. Good to hear it my man 💪
Thanks for that lovely comment. Im always open for good clients and good jobs whereever they are in the world 👍. If the job is worth taking than i take it 👍
🤞 thank you. Can you tell me if I need to seal the concrete please? I pout tanking down and then self levelled so it should be moisture free. Many thanks 🙏
Excellent video. Would it be possible next time to go into details about 2 specific items that were briefly covered: 1. How and why you chose the chalk like location (probably it's the longest run) and the parallel line is a multiple of the width of the herringbone pattern but not covered. 2. How you placed the boards and then measured the cuts around the radiator.
Thanks Arthur...im working out how to do more professional editing showing whole job and also zoomed on details. So still learning on editing. 1. I made the chalk line in the middle o the hallway and meassured it parallel to the hallway wall and also from that i did other line to see if its gona be paraller with kitchen units..thats why 2 lines. 2. I simply take tape measure or ideally metal long ruler and meassure where exacly the middle of the pipe is fro last ful board. I dont use a jig or anything like that just measuring up and marking on new board. I will at some point make a video only for that " how to do floor around radiator pipes" cos it would be useful for people to see this. Thanks for a comment bro!
Thank you jamie, do you think this style of editing is a bit better? 1. Showing job done first 2. Then talking about the job whats about to happen. 3. Then on fast forward me doing the job. 4. Do some slow zoom in shots. 5. Then again showing job done at the end. Do you think it works? Be my feed back man here :)
Did you use a hygrometer to test the concrete moisture levels? I’m about to undertake a herringbone installation in my living room, the subfloor is a mix of wood and concrete, I’m unsure if will be fine to just seal the concrete with the Bostik product you used or if I’d need to apply a liquid DPM first? There’s no sign of damp, the concrete part is on the centre of the living room and so not connected to an external wall, surely it would be fine?
I didnt use hudrometer as it was hot summer when i fitted this floor. That botsti k product is for concrete only i think. When i did herringbone on mix of wood and cocnrete ive decided to do it on underlay and glue edge to edge each board....so i didnt glue it down for the same reason which was not being sure what to do on mix of subfloor....good luck my brother! 🫡💪💪💪
Thanks for your compliment and for watching. It may not be clear in the video but there is 5-7mm gap all around :) Still learning the edit how to show small details. Thanks for feedback!
Which direction is best to lay the herringbone, herringbone facing the windows or herringbone across the windows? I have an "L" shaped room, windows and sliding doors along the long side, a family room area with no windows on the short side of the "L".
Mojarity choose to do herringbone long way so if your back is touching a shorter wall ans looking straight in a long room you d see V shape...regardless of where windows are...but i like personally accross the room from left to right. So id do in your room accross the windows to opposite wall...hope that helps! good luck and thanks for a comment!
Hiya bud why didn't you use underlay? If the concrete doesn't have visqeen under it how do you know it wont damage the flooring with damp rising up from the floor? Thanks
My client Dean specificly wanted glued down as he didnt want to have any movement on the floor. When you do underlay then its a floating floor and it mives sometimes and bouces if there is air pockets underneath. I used concrete sealer and i dont know whats underneath the concrete. Concrete was dry and was no dump so all should be fine.
Thanks, this is the glue. Its from wickes. The floor as weel from wickes. Brand called woodpecker: www.wickes.co.uk/W-by-Woodpecker-MS-Flexible-Wood-Floor-Adhesive---5kg/p/286392?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiMmwBhDmARIsABeQ7xR_y-wfWdb32EE4djXV5orf0PQsLCKuYGeS7EI6lIYsqc0m5AHL7twaAv7TEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
My floor ive bought isnt fully oak the under neath is a ply wood then the top layer about 8 mm is oak. Should i glue it down or float it? 🤔 sub floor is concrete with self levelling compound on top.
You can install it both ways on concrete: glue down or underlay. With gluing down adavntage is that its gona be fitted down solidly and wont bounce and move at all. For some people this is most important hing- that the floor is hard and wont bounce. But gluing needs special preps first special concreate sealer. Than cost of glue is not cheap. And its a dirty job. underlay howere is easier and cheaper but still needs glueing edge to edge and adds cost of underlay. Both ways are good on concrete. Id do glueing down. Good luck with the project! 💪💪💪
When i do click herringbone i shave/scrape tiny round bit from the "tongue" and by doing that the board from "click" turns into "tongue and groove" flooring which means you can than slide flat the tongue board into groove boards without clicking at an angle. But i add wood glue for securing that joint. With this flooring in rhis video its all tongue and groove so i was able to fill little trimgle at the end withiut any shaving tongues...it all slides flat into the groove board.... Thing is that when you start flooring with little triangles first than its hard to keep parrarel line of rest of the herringbone with the long wall. Its easy to go at wrong angle. But when you start with flull rows of V shape herringbone then you can easly have pararel line of boards with big long wall cos you have chalk line. Hope it makes sense and really good technical question thanks!
About to attempt this myself for the first time ever. This video is defo top 3 for tips so far. 👌
Oh glade you found it helpful. I want to talk on my videos about how to do the job right and show challenges you may have on the jobs. Good to hear it my man 💪
Someone who really takes pride in their work. Pity you don't work in my area!
Thanks for that lovely comment. Im always open for good clients and good jobs whereever they are in the world 👍. If the job is worth taking than i take it 👍
Beautiful work, true craftsmanship! I couldn’t find anyone to lay mine so going to have a go myself 😊 Wish me luck 🤦♀️😂
Thank you! You can do it! 💪💪💪💪
🤞 thank you. Can you tell me if I need to seal the concrete please? I pout tanking down and then self levelled so it should be moisture free. Many thanks 🙏
@@a09zx gpod job. Do that blue concrete sealer from screwfix. Its to make sure the glue is sticking properly to the self level.💪
Perfect, thank you so much for your help!
majestic work mate, really beautiful stuff
Excellent video. Would it be possible next time to go into details about 2 specific items that were briefly covered:
1. How and why you chose the chalk like location (probably it's the longest run) and the parallel line is a multiple of the width of the herringbone pattern but not covered.
2. How you placed the boards and then measured the cuts around the radiator.
Thanks Arthur...im working out how to do more professional editing showing whole job and also zoomed on details. So still learning on editing.
1. I made the chalk line in the middle o the hallway and meassured it parallel to the hallway wall and also from that i did other line to see if its gona be paraller with kitchen units..thats why 2 lines.
2. I simply take tape measure or ideally metal long ruler and meassure where exacly the middle of the pipe is fro last ful board. I dont use a jig or anything like that just measuring up and marking on new board. I will at some point make a video only for that " how to do floor around radiator pipes" cos it would be useful for people to see this. Thanks for a comment bro!
🤩 amazing job mate, great video 👍
Thank you jamie, do you think this style of editing is a bit better?
1. Showing job done first
2. Then talking about the job whats about to happen.
3. Then on fast forward me doing the job.
4. Do some slow zoom in shots.
5. Then again showing job done at the end.
Do you think it works? Be my feed back man here :)
@@FinePineNorwichCarpenter really good mate, loved it!
Did you use a hygrometer to test the concrete moisture levels? I’m about to undertake a herringbone installation in my living room, the subfloor is a mix of wood and concrete, I’m unsure if will be fine to just seal the concrete with the Bostik product you used or if I’d need to apply a liquid DPM first? There’s no sign of damp, the concrete part is on the centre of the living room and so not connected to an external wall, surely it would be fine?
I didnt use hudrometer as it was hot summer when i fitted this floor. That botsti k product is for concrete only i think. When i did herringbone on mix of wood and cocnrete ive decided to do it on underlay and glue edge to edge each board....so i didnt glue it down for the same reason which was not being sure what to do on mix of subfloor....good luck my brother! 🫡💪💪💪
Great job, how many days did the floor take to install looks complicated
Thank you kevin....it took full 7 days of work from priming the concrete to fitting all skirting boards.
Amazing job just curious why arnt you leaving expansion gaps at the edges
Thanks for your compliment and for watching. It may not be clear in the video but there is 5-7mm gap all around :)
Still learning the edit how to show small details. Thanks for feedback!
Which direction is best to lay the herringbone, herringbone facing the windows or herringbone across the windows? I have an "L" shaped room, windows and sliding doors along the long side, a family room area with no windows on the short side of the "L".
Mojarity choose to do herringbone long way so if your back is touching a shorter wall ans looking straight in a long room you d see V shape...regardless of where windows are...but i like personally accross the room from left to right. So id do in your room accross the windows to opposite wall...hope that helps! good luck and thanks for a comment!
Hiya bud why didn't you use underlay? If the concrete doesn't have visqeen under it how do you know it wont damage the flooring with damp rising up from the floor?
Thanks
My client Dean specificly wanted glued down as he didnt want to have any movement on the floor. When you do underlay then its a floating floor and it mives sometimes and bouces if there is air pockets underneath.
I used concrete sealer and i dont know whats underneath the concrete. Concrete was dry and was no dump so all should be fine.
@@FinePineNorwichCarpenter fair enough mate great job 👍
Great work,can i ask what glue you used please
Thanks, this is the glue. Its from wickes. The floor as weel from wickes. Brand called woodpecker:
www.wickes.co.uk/W-by-Woodpecker-MS-Flexible-Wood-Floor-Adhesive---5kg/p/286392?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiMmwBhDmARIsABeQ7xR_y-wfWdb32EE4djXV5orf0PQsLCKuYGeS7EI6lIYsqc0m5AHL7twaAv7TEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
My floor ive bought isnt fully oak the under neath is a ply wood then the top layer about 8 mm is oak. Should i glue it down or float it? 🤔 sub floor is concrete with self levelling compound on top.
You can install it both ways on concrete: glue down or underlay. With gluing down adavntage is that its gona be fitted down solidly and wont bounce and move at all. For some people this is most important hing- that the floor is hard and wont bounce. But gluing needs special preps first special concreate sealer. Than cost of glue is not cheap. And its a dirty job. underlay howere is easier and cheaper but still needs glueing edge to edge and adds cost of underlay. Both ways are good on concrete. Id do glueing down. Good luck with the project! 💪💪💪
@@FinePineNorwichCarpenter
Thanks alot !! Great help. 👍🏻 il have to seal the floor then get it started
Can parquet be used in kitchens? How long would it take to install herringbone parquet in four rooms?
Yeah many of my clients have kitchen floor done with parquet and there is no problem with that....it takes about 2 days to do standard room 👍
How do you fill in the starting triangles if you don’t do them at the start of a herringbone 5gi click installation?
When i do click herringbone i shave/scrape tiny round bit from the "tongue" and by doing that the board from "click" turns into "tongue and groove" flooring which means you can than slide flat the tongue board into groove boards without clicking at an angle. But i add wood glue for securing that joint.
With this flooring in rhis video its all tongue and groove so i was able to fill little trimgle at the end withiut any shaving tongues...it all slides flat into the groove board....
Thing is that when you start flooring with little triangles first than its hard to keep parrarel line of rest of the herringbone with the long wall. Its easy to go at wrong angle. But when you start with flull rows of V shape herringbone then you can easly have pararel line of boards with big long wall cos you have chalk line. Hope it makes sense and really good technical question thanks!
What glue are you using
Thats the glue:
www.wickes.co.uk/W-by-Woodpecker-MS-Flexible-Wood-Floor-Adhesive---5kg/p/286392