Відео

Thanks for watching!

Yes, you can connect a 400w solar panel to the DPU

@@solarguy thank you sow much, I read more to figure it out hahaha now know my question was quite stupid hahaha, since california have this expensive permit for solar panels I will use portable on a open section of my house :3 thanks you so much for the video you really share more info than ususal reviewers with expensive cameras and shots

Thanks! I’m trying to be as helpful as I can. Post any more questions (as new comments - it’s easier for me to reply) if you have them.

Thanks for the suggestion. I may give that a try for the next review. The reason I choose a white background for these tests is to make it easier to notice any flicker on the LED backlights. I would think a video playing would make it harder to notice. The biggest thing though is that the computer keeps running.

It has advantages for their ecosystem. However, relying upon the SDC outputs and adapters for 12 volt DC output and for solar input is a major mistake because it is like (actually worse) than old power stations that had a separate power brick for AC input. With DJI you have to keep around multiple bulky adapters. It would be one thing if they had a compartment on the power station in which you could put these adapters but they do not. Thus they are several years behind the curve of the development of power stations.

I have noticed that SDC is DJI's own proprietary port, it's not hard to imagine that in the future DJI will come up with a lot more different accesories which will make this SDC port even more powerful. Currently it supports drone fast charges, as well as 24v DC output which is better than tradition cig outlets that only support 12v. I really hope if DJI could release a video to clarify the functions of these SDC ports for us, that would be great.

What do you mean?

@@solarguy for specifications, use on-screen text.

I’m not sure if you are asking a question or mentioning something you have experienced.

Great to hear. What were your questions?

I cover that issue some in the delta pro ultra video I made before this video. Check that out and post a question there if I didn’t answer your questions.

I have both. I’d probably say whichever is cheaper. The EB3A has a wireless charging pad on top and you don’t need to give them an email to use the APP with bluettoth. But both are good small portable power stations.

Thanks! I would have to measure the box it came in (assuming that is close to the tightest radius) but from memory it was like 12 inches or so. It’s nice to be able to roll it back up to store in the box if needed.

I’m not sure your question. The eps feature will work at any state of charge.

It depends on how much solar and how much sunlight you have. If you have a 5kw solar array and full sun (1000w/m2) at the right angle then it might take about 1.2 hours to go from 0 to 100%

This unit can run basically any refrigerator or cooler with the AC output. If you are asking about the 12V car output, those ports are usually limited to about 120W or so. Almost all portable fridge/coolers are able to run on less than 120W, so it should work. But if it's not working with the 12v output, you can always use the AC output.

@@solarguy I apologize for my English haha I was wondering if this station can turn off its fans if the load is 100-200W or so or if the fans will still run but how quietly? If it stands a meter away from my ear can I hear it in a completely quiet room?

no problem. I don't know the answer until I run that exact experiment with a decibel meter. But in your situation, the compressor, fan, etc of the cooler will almost certainly be louder than the power station.

@@solarguy Do you remember if it has a “pass-through mode” when the current goes directly from the mains to the appliances without discharging the battery in UPS mode? Many stations even though they allow to use them as UPS, but periodically recharge the battery a couple times a day, which is bad for the battery life

I’m not sure your question but on my unit I can bypass both 120v and 240v (with the 5+8 port as the input, like using a gas generator).

@solarguy thank you for the response. Can I get your option before I purchase the dpu? I live in apartment and will be using my wall outlet to charge the dpu. Will I be able to use all of my battery outlet??

Use all outlets while charging from my wall outlet

No problem. If you have the wall AC plugged in, yes, you can get access to all of the 120V AC ports and even the 240V output, which is very unique. I'll keep the video description updated with new coupon codes as I get them. It looks like the amazon link is the best deal at the moment.

You have to get over 30v so if you put at least two in series it would work on the low voltage input.

What app features don't work? Are you using with the SHP2 or just stand alone?

@@solarguy Schedule tasks don't work unless the battery is on, which increases battery drain, requiring more charge time. The EPS mode is another power drain when on, and should function the same whether on or off in terms of static power drain. StormGuard doesn't work. All the functionality built into the battery-side of the app is disengaged when connected to the SP-2, reducing overall control of the battery.

If you want all of your needs to be covered for up to 4 days you would need to calculate what your average daily use of electricity is for all of the loads in your house then multiply by 4 to get a good estimate. This will be in kilowatt-hours. If you have solar panels then you will also need to make some assumptions on how much they can produce. Because a system like this is expandable, you can always start with one battery and add more until you find the amount that suits your needs.

On my main channel video reviewing the F3800 I talk about that a little near the end of the video, if interested. Each of the two XT60 ports can handle up to 1200W in a more ideal scenario, so a total of 2400W total. The main consideration is the 60V input limitation on each port. I looked up your 200W panels and they have a max power voltage of 20.4v. So you can put two of these in series and put them on the one XT60 port and the same on the other port. Or you can parallel the two sets in series and put them all on one XT60 port (since the max current would be 9.8A+9.8A = 19.6A (which is less than the 25A max on each XT60 input port). Then you could get another (4) 200W solar panels and do the same on the other XT60 port. This would get you 1600W of total solar input.

Wth is all that about Jimmy the cricket

It’s hard to give an exact answer because there are so many options for solar panels (prices, sizes, wattage, etc). Where you plan to mount them is also a factor. A simple explanation is to look up the voltage on a solar panel spec sheet. When wired in series you add up the voltage. You want to be mindful of the amperage limits too so you are most efficient. Would you find it helpful if I made a video explaining these concepts (series and parallel solar strings)?

@@solarguy Absolutely. Please make a video. I stubbled on to your channel because of this video. Your video was a great explanation and overview of the unit for beginners. I will be checking out your other content to continue my journey into the world of solar.

I think they mean don't tilt that side down because it's the side with the handle.

I think you might have a typo. I don't understand your question.

Stay tuned for that. Neither the smart home panel 2 nor the home power panel will power your main service panel if there is a blackout. They both only feed a critical loads panel (the smart home panel 2 would be the critical loads panel) and the HPP would output to a critical loads panel. The HPP can backfeed to your main service panel (but not out to the grid) and provide power to the critical loads panel when it senses the grid. Where is your grid-tie solar point of connection? Is it line-side or is it backfed through a breaker on your main service panel?

@@solarguy it’s line-side, I believe. There’s no additional breaker in my main panel. However, outside, there are both a separate manual lever “ac disconnect” and a solar breaker (I believe) in a junction box that is attached to the box with the meter. I think that one must be where the grid AC and the solar AC are “merging”. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Thank you for the sub and for watching! Yes, there is a setting for that in the App for Delta Pro Ultra. For the F3800, there isn't any option that I know about. With their respective grid hardware (smart home panel 2 for EcoFlow and the Home Power Panel for Anker, you can set limits like these) . Not sure if this is what you are asking but I also just found out about a programming group that is getting an API from EcoFlow. I'm not sure what kind of opportunities that may bring up but I think it's great for 3rd parties to be able to monitor and interact with the devices.

I should also add that since I made this video the new firmware on the F3800 allows for dual charging solar + grid.

I don't remember the numbers off hand exactly but the F3800 was at least 84% with a constant load of 1,000W. What was your constant load amount draining from 100 to 0%?

Used 265watts for 10.5 hrs in my test. I need it for hurricane season here in Florida. Realistically most people won't be using a constant 1000W load, specially after or during a storm when you have no idea how long the power will be out. Sometimes days. Most will be conserving energy and using only the bare minimum to get by. Have you tested any other large units with better results? Less power hungry inverter?? Thank you for taking your time to answer my comments. Great review by the way!@@solarguy

The SHP2 natively has the 3 ports for DPU's. You can use the F3800, for example, through the generator inlet. That's how I was using it in those scenes with the F3800 and the higher AC loads. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Thanks! Let me know if you have any other questions about them.

Thanks for watching! This is one of my new favorites.

I’ve read that too but I’ve been able to input 240v on the 5+8 port with another generator and measure 240v on the L14-30 port at the same time so I don’t know what to say. Maybe they are referring to when you have it connected to the smart home panel 2? I’ll have to test these scenarios some more and see if I can figure out what they mean.

Interesting, thanks for the report. So both 120 and 240 on the front panel work when charging using a 240V "EcoFlow AC Generator Charging Adapter" on the side port? This makes my use case of effectively a 120/240V UPS so much easier.

I just ran a test to confirm. I have a preproduction model so I doubt they would have changed the feature in the retail version but I was able to run my house loads at 240v through a generator inlet box, run a 120v load, AND input 240V at the same time (from another generator).

I was wondering that myself but I think it means that you don't tilt that side down. You are supposed to tilt it up because wheels are on the other side.

Yes, the both are.