Відео

Yes I did. I captured it in the video.

@@flat6fever680 Good catch! As a matter of fact I did replace that one about a month before I shot the video. However I did this purely prophylacticly as there was no leak there ever. In general, in order to keep rubber gaskets alive do not over tighten them, spray silicon oil on them then they’re still new or if the rubber gasket looks flat and old you can revive it by boiling for 15 minutes in grape seed oil. (I tried it and it does work.) Technically, you should only replace torn rubber gaskets. If they’re not torn you can resurrect them if you really need to and save a few bucks.

@@vijahast Thanks for your input. check out the description for this video. I posted an update there about my latest findings for this ratio. In short, yes, 15/37 is probably the best ratio for both W800 and W650. No wonder they switched to this ratio in Japan after 2006 model I recon.

@@antbonyziemiak208 you mean your dealership put your filter upside down on your bike? I don’t think that is a huge problem btw. As long as there’s a filter element it should work, but due to the fact that there are potential backfires from the carbs’ venturi (holes) you should keep it metal side up to lessen the probability of fire. Those filters are drenched in fuel and oil…. I sometimes use air filter oil on them when I don’t have the time for full oil spa treatments :). Just spray a thin coat and only on the inside of the filter. Avoid spraying the on the soft perimeter material. Light light light coat! Squeeze out any excess oil using cotton rags. I use paper towels, but they take out a lot of oil, so cotton rags are better I think. Follow the instructions in your user manual.

@@antbonyziemiak208 Canada, BC. No, I use regular plugs they last for about 30,000km or about 3 years for me and now I’m going to swap the colder summer plugs to hotter springs fall plugs, so they will outlast my bike lol. No real financial reason to get iridium in my case. I also take them out frequently to inspect their colour when I tweak the idle screws, so regular plugs are better for gear heads like me.

@@antbonyziemiak208 Oy Lord knows I need to fix the main harness this winter! Too many arcs forming due to cracked insulation. Time does deteriorate the insulation…

@@antbonyziemiak208 :)))

@@philippep561 I’m about to upload a video on how to rebuild the petcock. Stay tuned.

My petcock doesn’t work in the normal position. I have to put it in prime position. Awaiting your video sir ! Thank you !!!

Tell us about the rear turn signals please.

@@antbonyziemiak208 Video is coming right up. Hold tight! Working on it now. (Get the full petcock repair kit from fort9.com as your diagram ist kaput.)

@@antbonyziemiak208 what would you like to know about them?

@@reneblanco8418 Yes, I do use the stock box and filter. I read a lot about airflow modifications and most of the people say the power gains are not worth the investment. Most people who tried it can’t get it to work as well as stock, because new jets that you need to install to make use of the extra air that’s coming in are really difficult to configure right. I would not recommend touching the airbox or stock filter or carb needles. Keep in mind that if you install the pod filters that are outside the air box you can’t ride in the rain for long as the water clogs the pods very fast. K&N filter allows more air in at the expense of filtering fine dust. The engine is already running very lean from the factory due to environmental regulations, so if you add even more air you will cause damage to your engine unless you rejet the carbs that is really difficult.

@@pnwoods I enjoy making the videos very much. Please let me know if you have a something that I need to cover more in depth. The fuel filters can be ordered through any dealer, on Amazon/Aliexpress or from Japanese online parts stores like webike. I buy the small stuff like that from Amazon or Aliexpress and bigger parts from the dealership or from Japanese parts stores. Shipping costs from Japan can be as expensive as ordering from the dealer, so it depends on the part. How do you know that it needs valve adjustment?

I ended up not removing the lower bearing and seal, because I didn’t have the right tools to do this, so I cleaned it up with parts cleaner solution in a can and then added fresh grease and called it a day. 😊

@@dirtyadventure8481 wise choice my friend! I did them on my Honda fx650 and holy shiiiiiit, it took me days. The chisel method didn’t work, so I ended up cutting the bearing off with an angle grinder. Getting the races out of the frame stem took me days as well, as I needed to grind away some of the steel with a round hand file and then hit the races out with a punch. I’ve been watching all your videos on the W…. I just one the other day and have started working on it… I wanted to see how different it was from my Honda… but it’s basically the same. Super easy bike to work on… however I want to get my head around that bevel drive since I plan to remove both right side covers to have them polished and clear coated again.

@@MisterJDee Now I’m glad that I didn’t have a chisel at home. :) I also have to polish the engine covers, but I decided to wait until I need to replace the clutch. I’ll do what I can with a polishing wheel on my drill in the meantime time. I’ll definitely make a video if I do the bevel drive. Good luck and send me some more ideas for videos please.

@@ianzhang8337 I’m glad to help. Yes, these reusable filters are good until they sustain damage from incorrect chemicals people are using on them. On the W650 with proper treatment they should last around 50,000km. On the W800 which doesn’t have backfires they should last longer. Let me know when you are ready to ride together. I’m in Surrey.

@@flat6fever680 I enjoy making these videos, thanks for your interest. No, the pads get squished and the height difference is not enough to cause any issues.

@@VS-vo3rd Надеюсь что вы не пострадали. Размер не знаю но вот линк на оригинал: en.impex-jp.com/catalogs/moto/kawasaki/ej650/ej650-a4-2002-usa-335/tires-19266.html Нужно будет нести к мастеру который умеет выравнивать колеса натяжением спиц. Ну и поменять сломанные спицы.

@@dirtyadventure8481 немного пострадал. Палец сломал. Мой мотоцикл передняя часть сломана. Вилка , мятый бак, спицы на колесе, поворотники фара. На вастоновление уйдёт время. На impexse в Россию не присылают запчасти из Японии. Не знаю что делать. На АлиЭкспресс, там есть , но я не знаю подойдут ли. Ситуация сложная с запчастями в России.

Yeah, for w800 stock ratio 15:37 is best. I even updated the description of this video to mention this.

@@dirtyadventure8481 My W800 with 15/37 stock sprockets will cruise around in fifth gear at 50kph and will pull smoothly to highway speed without shifting. It really makes it nice to not have to continually down shift and up shift if you're not in hurry. Its still accelerates faster than most traffic while leaving it in 5th gear and is only spinning at 4200rpm at 120kph. Very smooth at this speed.

@@Bob-xc2us Yes, but I still think that it’s missing the 6th gear ⚙️. A side note: Even though our bikes can do it, cruising at below 2,500rpm (50kph in 5th) is not recommended, because it puts way too much stress on the piston pins. If you care for engine longevity keep the tachometer needle above 2500rpm in any gear… Even setting your idle too low < 900rpm reduces the oil pressure and harms your valves. Motorcycle engines are not diesel engines and should not be treated like ones. ☝️ Diesels have reinforced pistons and pins, so they are designed for low rpm conditions, motorcycle engines are not. Our bikes are designed to be used above 4000rpm. Shifting gears above that number is really pleasant and smooth. This bike has a preference; ether keep it 2500-3000 or keep it above 4000rpm.

@@dirtyadventure8481 I understand your view on engine rpm and at wide throttle acceleration I would agree with you but for putting around and lazy acceleration there is no excessive stress being put on the rings, pistons etc. Yes, wide open throttle acceleration in high gear at these low speeds will eventually hurt the engine Page 74 of the W800 2022 manual recommends shifting from 4th to 5th at 45kph(27mph). It would appear that Kawasaki does not feel that putting around at 30mph in fifth gear is a problem for these bikes. These are long stroke, low rpm and low compression engines. They are not the same as other higher revving motorcycles engines. You operate your motorcycle at the higher rpm and you won't be hurting it. I will operated mine within the parameters recommended by Kawasaki and I won't be hurting it. I do rev it and give a good high rpm run from time to time to keep the cob webs out but I do not operate it under high load at low rpms and I assume that Kawasaki's recommended shift points Are for low load Putting around and lazy acceleration.

My 650 owners “booklet “ says the same thing. At 27 miles per hour you can put it in 5th gear and stay there all day. That’s one of the things I absolutely love about the W, that low down torque. Every bike I’ve ever had I tried to emulate the low engine speed of Harley Davidson’s. This bike comes the closest to it without the weight,bulk, and expense of a Harley. Beautiful machine to ride and look at !!! It think it actually has a longer stroke than the Brit bikes it emulates, let alone the “modern” Triumph’s!!!

Здорово! Спасибо большое.

@@dirtyadventure8481 Кстати, если просветите, для чего этот обогатитель нужен - буду премного благодарен. Это редкая штука на карбюраторах и внятного ответа никто не дал. При резком сбросе газа он кратковременно обогащает смесь. Из-за чего только хуже - хлопки в трубах из-за недожига.

@@DiezelKat Насколько я понимаю, если выжать газ потом резко бросить ручку газа и резко выжать газ опять то произойдут некие рывки при управлении. Именно эти рывки этот клапан пытается сгладить давая маленький кусочек бензина.

@@dirtyadventure8481 ua-cam.com/video/E4MZJjG_tQ0/v-deo.html Вот здесь показана работа похожего клапана. И тоже говорит, что он для того, чтоб не хлопало в трубе. Но по логике, обогащая смесь, наоборот создаёшь условия для хлопков - хлопает ведь переобогащённая смесь.

@@DiezelKat Ну не всегда. Когда слишком бедная смесь то в трубе хлопает тоже. Если есть хлопки это означает что часть топлива неполностью сгорела в камере сгорания. Это может быть не только если в смеси слишком много топлива на единицу воздуха, но и когда слишком много воздуха на единицу топлива. Т.е. топливо не горит из-за того что смесь слишком бедная…. И взрывается в горячей трубе где условия для поджога более благоприятные из-за наличия там достаточно бензиновых паров из предыдущих недовзрывов.

Это скорее всего проскальзывание сцепления. У меня такое бывает, но реже после того как я поменял масло на M2 вариант. Обратите внимание на этикетку на банке масла которое вы залили в последний раз. Вам необходимо иметь тип масла «М2». Вторая причина это ослабевшие пружины сцепления. Их можно поменять. Они не дорогие. ($15) Третья причина это износ самих дисков сцепления. Это стоит дороже. Сцепление обычно служит ~80,000км если им правильно пользоваться.

@@dirtyadventure8481 Спасибо Вам ! У меня залито MA2 10W-50. Думаю залить по мануалу 10W-40 MA2 так как M2 не нашёл . Мой W650 пробег 13000 км. Смазал тросики сцепление и газа. Спасибо за ответ. Буду разбираться.

@@dirtyadventure8481 Заливаю масло синтетик.

@@VS-vo3rd это очень маленький пробег. (Если он конечно действительно такой как вы думаете). Может быть что сцепление сожгли бывшие владельцы? Я залил масло 20w-50 полусинтетическое. Сейчас такое случается редко когда масло еще не прогрелось < 70с. Короче говоря поставьте чуть более упругие пружины сцепления. Замерьте толщину дисков сцепления на всякий случай раз вы уже крышку открыли… минимальная сервисная толщина сцепления в сервис мануале. Если хотя бы 1 из дисков тоньше чем допустимый минимум то этот диск нужно менять. Извините я имел ввиду тип «ма2» не «м2». М2 не существует.

@@VS-vo3rd Я не думаю что это как-то связано с проблемой. К стати я думаю что лить синтетику в наш мотоцикл нет смысла (если вы конечно не участвуете в гонках на жаре) ибо замена масла каждые 6000км….

After riding on a 16/39t for a while I now recommend 15/37t setup when you change the chain. On higher rpms (>4000rpm) 16t is a tad too tall and acceleration is slightly reduced. It’s not a huge deal, but now I understand why Kawasaki ended up installing 15/37 on all W bikes after 2006. I don’t see any difference in fuel efficiency after swapping the front sprocket.

@dirtyadventure8481 Great! Thank you for the update. Perhaps my first step should be to count the teeth that are there now. Who knows? This might have been done . The speedo is over optimistic as is.

I’m in the US. 2001 was the last year here. It came with the “high” bars, or buckhorn style bars. The next year it came with the flat bars. I spent about $500.00 US to get a flat bar kit from England. Came with the proper flat bars and proper cables. I like the look and feel of the flat bars. The in command position.

Right, I wouldn’t chrome them, because chrome is a higher maintenance item. You have to remove water or dirt from chrome quickly as it can leave marks. Under my seat on my bike the chrome is very pitted from moisture and I had to clean it all off and carefully paint it black with a special paint to inhibit further rust. Chrome scratches easily and immediately looks ugly unless you polish it off…which never actually returns it to the original condition. It’s a major pain in the ass.

@dirtyadventure8481 Haha! I'll leave alone then and forget the chrome and save cash at same time! 😆

You’re welcome and your question reminds me to make a short video about this. I’ll post it shortly. It is hard to tell from this particular video because I moved the camera too quickly. In general, the tap’s square end is the pointer. Also take a look at my fuel tank video Winterization 1. I think I went over the petcock there too.

Tip: I use the “trip 1” function on the dash to approximate how much gas is in the tank. I reset the meter on every full fill-up and put the petcock to the ON position. My bike gives me ~190km and then I have to switch to reserve. You have about 50km on reserve. You can switch to reserve while you’re riding, but it’s much safer to ether stop and switch or just fill up at the gas station.

Yes, these manometers are generic. When you measure pressure the arrow will move to the right. When you are measuring vacuum (opposite of pressure) the arrow moves in the opposite direction. The coloured markings on the dial we can ignore. We are after having the arrow to point at the same values.

@@dirtyadventure8481 thank you! Really appreciate the explanation. Makes a lot of sense.

Good job on cleaning the tank. Your best bet is to download a service manual for the bike. In addition, you should check out the sub-assembly diagrams on spare parts websites like this for example: www.ronayers.com/oemparts/l/kaw/500b0766f870023ba4c1e7e2/2001-w650-ej650-a3-parts If you have concrete questions then leave comments under my videos or suggest a new topic for the video and I’ll show you the answers in the new video.

In short, on the right side of the tank underneath you’ll have two lines of breather tubes. Any long tubes will do. On the left you have the vacuum operated petcock. The bottom L shaped metal tube is for the gas to come out into the carburetor. The smaller diafragm pipe is for a vacuum line that connects through a T shaped connector to the vacuum lines that I show in this video. Search for my video called “Carb Anatomy” and Winterization part 1 Petcock.

@@dirtyadventure8481 I will look for those videos for sure!! and thank you kindly.. So the right side, I just leave unconnected to anything? My bike is set up with two aircones, I think I heard you say you have an air box? should I try to find the airbox? My tank is even painted the same as yours. I wish whoever painted the bottom end black had not done that! But I will work with what I have. I also was wondering if you source parts thru Partzilla?

@@dirtyadventure8481 So I have never changed a gas sap before, I bought one off Ebay, and I don't think its the right one!! its too small lol. I thought it was simple to screws all done installed.. The ring in the center will not compresse and close right. Not sure if I am missing a step. I feel kinda dumb but this is all new to me. I am a dirt bike kinda guy. This is my first road bike.

@@briantremblay9157 so on the right side under the tank, just attach 2 long rubber tubes. Look at the aforementioned service manual for instructions on how to route the hoses. They are at the back of the service manual. Don’t ride without those tubes because if fuel leaks out from there onto the hot motor you might have a fire problem. If someone removed the airbox and installed external air filters you’re stuck with those and default carb settings can only be used as a ballpark figures. Avoid rain when riding with those. I wouldn’t look for an airbox unless you want to go back to stock settings and ride in the rain. I’m shopping for parts on Japanese websites as I’m based in Canada and US exchange rate and Canadian import duties prevent me from shopping from US parts stores.

I have a valve check video on my channel. Do the valve check to determine if you need a valve shim replacement or not. Chances are you don’t need a shim replacement at all. In case you do need to replace a shim or two all you have to do is to remove the old shim and put it the new shim. You don’t really need a whole separate video on it… Use the valve shim replacement table in the service manual to find the height of the replacement shim. This makes me think that I do need to create a new video just for the shimming procedure…

@@dirtyadventure8481yes I would very much like to see that video on replacing the shims sir !!!

@@antbonyziemiak208 I’m planning to do another valve check during this winter and I’ll definitely film the shim replacement. If you really want to see how it’s done you can watch how I did it on my KTM 390 Adventure bike that I sold to buy the Dub. It’s a long video, but the principle is the same. You can scroll through it because it’s way too detailed than you need. Search my channel for that video. It’s fascinating (boring for most people) :) It’s much easier to do the shims on the W than on KTM that’s for sure. I met a fellow Dub 800 rider and he said the dealer charged him $1500 bucks for valve service and regular oil change, checkup that they usually do. I scratched my head. Poor dude. Guys do yourself a favour learn to wrench on the W. It’s a perfect bike to wrench on.

I currently have my idle screws backed out 2.7/8 turns and thinking about changing the pilot jet to one size larger. The stock main jet seems to be ok for my riding style. I wonder if can just replace the pilot jet and not touch anything else ?

@@dirtyadventure8481 Sure....you can replace just the pilot jet. The fuel screw is effective up to 4 turns out but I don't recommend going over 3 as the idle screw spring begins to lose tension. You should try using the .020" shim under the needle. Dime City sells a pack of 12 or so for 4.50....many other people sell them as well. It really revved better. Those are the last of the carb bikes so they were jetted very lean to meet emissions. I

@@mikerieck306 The reason why I was thinking about getting a bigger pilot jet alone is that I don’t feel that the bike is sluggish at above 4000rpm which is the range of the main jet. The problem I have is from 2500 to 4000 rpm which is a standard cruising range in the city. It feels real sluggish in that range and vibes are bad 3000 to 4000 rpm. That is the range of the pilot jet. I tried cranking up the idle screws but after 2.5/8th turns the effect is minimal on anything above 2500rpm which makes sense. I’m happy with 2.7/8th turns on the idle screws and I’m going to leave them alone concentrating on upgrading the pilot jets and see what happens. You’re right the factory settings 2.1/8th turns out are way too lean. I found that 2.5/8th is acceptable, but it takes a long time to warm up the engine and fuel consumption is high as you’re forced to open the throttle more while the choke is on. With the current setting of 2.7/8th I still need the choke to start from cold even in +19c weather, but I can safely turn off the choke after about a mile down the road and not stall. Anything below that just requires to leave the choke on for longer periods, but in the end when engine is warm it doesn’t matter much.

Да. Если это не делать регулярно, то мотор будет барахлить и жрать бензин. Как только чувствуешь что потерял мощность проверь что воздушный фильтр чистый и нет вакуумных потерь (я сделаю следующее видео про это) и проверь балансировку карбов. Если все нормально, то скорее всего проблема в электричестве.

Thanks 🙏 Yes, the fundamental problem is with the chosen design of speed reading off of the engine sprocket nut. Kawasaki doesn’t think that it’s a big enough problem to fix. On a W650 it’s easy and cheap to solve this by swapping to a 16t sprocket. On a W800 it’s not that simple; as you must swap the rear sprocket to a 38t (or 39t) as well; otherwise, 16/37 is way too tall of a ratio for w800. I’m going to update my description for this video to include my findings after riding on a 16t /39t on W650 for a few more days.

The speedometer on my W800 reads exactly 3% faster than you are actually going. When the speedo says 60mph I'm actually going 58.2mph based on a Garmin GPS. I don't think that is too bad and is better for not getting speeding tickets. I think I will stick with the 15/37 as the motor sounds about right to me at 75mph. (4200rpm). That's 120kph here in Canada and that's reasonable speed for our four lane highways. Faster can get you a ticket. A slightly fatter tire on the back will also correct the speedo if you can find one. Changing to a 16T front sprocket will change the speedo by almost 7% slower so it would now read 4% slower than you are actually going. Not good when encountering the gentlemen in blue. I haven't met too many of them that have sense of humour. (humor for our US friends)

At the time I did this valve check I had 49,000km or ~35,000mi. Now I have 51,000km.

Wow, thanks for sharing your experience. This is really helpful. Do you think 🤔 the particular type of air filter oil spray that you used was incompatible with our air filters? When I sprayed mine I only sprayed the foam on the inside of the filter bringing the nozzle very close. This is why mine (which was brand new at the time) stayed ok. I got lucky I guess. Good to know! I completely agree with your suggestion to use regular motor oil.

@dirtyadventure8481 maybe different brand of spray oil is OK but I'm not going to spend any money to find out.

I owned a KTM and Honda and always did my own maintenance. 🧑‍🔧 So much fun! Who needs riding when you can wrench and then ride?!

Well, thank you 🙏. I enjoy making these videos and I’m glad to help people to learn how to maintain these beautiful bikes with the level of attention and accuracy that these bikes deserve. Please do ask me to make a video about a specific topic that interests you. I’m always looking for ideas. As for my lifting setup… I mainly use 2x4s, a square of piece of thick plywood and a regular car jack if I need to prop up the frame near the oil pan. (Never lift the bike on the oil pan itself. Lift the frame.) I found that most of the time the centre stand is enough though. For example, when I remove the front wheel the rear of the bike becomes heavier and simply tilts the bike up on a Center stand without any extra lifting. I know some people use small Chinese scissor type jacks and that’s fine. I, personally, found that lifting the bike higher than the centre stand is not necessary at all. I do these videos on the centre stand, a car jack and some wood.🪵

Mine is a 2001 W650

Thank you for your corrections. I appreciate it greatly. In the video, when I speak about the forgotten spacer you see the second Chinese open bearing that I already installed. I updated the description of this video to include the do’s and don’ts and lessons learned. (Use proper tools 🛠️ )

Здравствуйте! Нет, эту процедуру нужно пройти только в том случае если вы поменяли поплавки, поплавковые «иглы» или если вы только купили байк и неуверенны правильно ли настроен карбюратор или нет или вы сами случайно сбили настройку когда чистили карбюратор (что и случилось в моем случае). Короче говоря, если вы никогда это не делали, то сделайте. Ведь эта процедура проста и ничего разбирать не нужно.

@@dirtyadventure8481 Спасибо !