Відео

In true Fuji fashion since 2019... Tint on lcd your screen that is not calibrated.

What a great microphone! :) Love this post.

I find that a lot of youtube is street photographers in new york and new york seems like the kind of place that a pushy in your face photographer wouldn't feel out of place but in the relatively small city i live in, in the UK acting this way is most probably going to cause conflict

My best tip: Don't.

Street photography is going out and accepting , every weather condition delivers something worth photographing. Sometimes it takes patience and other times the best was the cappuccino drunk at the beach coffee shop . Greetings from Nazaré , Portugal

😊 yesterday i bought a red filter for my biogon 28 on my .... Oh wait, I'm not a dentist ... but yes, helps/motivates a lot

I hope the video helps! Here are 10 more tips for Street Photography on overcast days: Embrace the Soft Light: Cloudy days offer diffused, even lighting that reduces harsh shadows and highlights. Use this to your advantage by capturing scenes with subtle details and natural tones. Utilize Leading Lines: Overcast skies can make backgrounds less interesting. Compensate by incorporating strong leading lines in your compositions. Streets, sidewalks, and architectural elements can guide the viewer's eye through the image. Increase Your ISO: Cloudy days usually mean lower light levels. Don’t be afraid to increase your ISO to maintain a fast enough shutter speed to freeze motion while keeping your images sharp. Focus on People: Street photography is all about capturing human moments. On cloudy days, look for people engaged in daily activities, interactions, or unique characters that stand out against the muted background. Use Aperture Priority Mode: To maintain control over depth of field and ensure proper exposure, shoot in aperture priority mode. This allows you to quickly adjust to changing lighting conditions while keeping your subjects sharp. Look for Interesting Textures: Cloudy weather often enhances the textures in your environment. Pay attention to the textures of buildings, pavement, and other surfaces to add richness and depth to your photos. Capture Mood and Atmosphere: Cloudy weather often adds a certain moodiness to the environment. Focus on scenes that convey emotion or tell a story, such as people huddling under umbrellas, steam rising from vents, or foggy alleyways. Photograph Architecture: The even lighting on cloudy days can be ideal for capturing architectural details without the distraction of harsh shadows. Look for interesting building designs, patterns, and symmetry. Experiment with Angles: Try shooting from different angles and perspectives. Low angles can add drama and make ordinary scenes more interesting, while high angles can give a fresh viewpoint on familiar streets. Post-Processing: Enhance your cloudy day shots in post-processing. Increase contrast, adjust highlights and shadows, and play with clarity to bring out details. You can also experiment with color grading to match the mood you want to convey. Remember, cloudy days can offer unique opportunities for street photography. Happy shooting!

tip 4 isent rele posebol for me wen im using old charmeras betwin 1930s and 80s. youe cant record videos on them... :D

What is the name of the book you talk about st 6:25?

I bought r10 for street photo and absolutely frustrated with it. its heavy bulky, picture quality is awful. I cant get proper composition and exposure. That experience make me very depressed and I dont want do photos anymore. Both process of taking photos and results are make me feel sick. I dont want even edit taken photos. I just have feeling that its useless. Just want to share my experience with others who want to try it - thats very special hobby. You should like spent time editing your photos (I hate it) Your camera should be small as xt-30 with lens like 27 mm ttartisan. or even smaller. as small as possible. And never ever buy canon cameras.

I don't see the point of 95% street photography. Most of it it's banal.

Tempted to get this one! Street photography + wide angle + manual/zone focusing = perfection

How can I change the language I have it but i can't setting it course it in Japan

Distance and a telephoto lens go a long way.

I zone focus and never look at a screen or put the camera up to my eye...

I do the smartphone thing all the time! Haha And when someone spots me, I look at them and throw them a smile.

Great. Love from Pakistan

Does snapping a photo of a silhoutted figure walking through the light between buildings mean I'm an artist? Really?

I use a wheelchair, I can see both sides of this issue. I despise being stared at, let alone photographed. It’s incredibly rude and invasive. If someone took a photo of me on the street I would really appreciate being approached afterward (once you’ve got your candid shot) and introduced. I won’t mind if you’re a professional or just snapping with phone, just let me know you felt compelled to take my photo. Then show me the photo/s. I would think that I would be really lenient if I didn’t like how I looked to let them keep the photo. It would have to be a really bad shot of myself to ask you to delete it. From the other perspective, the above makes me hesitant to take candid photos of people as the *focus* because I’m too shy to approach them to introduce myself. So thus far I have simply not taken the photo. So I do please urge people to be mindful of the differently-abled. Many of us already feel exposed and self conscious without even having our photo taken 😊

I like the lower perspective from shooting from the hip but it's also easy to miss a lot of shots. It takes a lot of practice to get where you can point the camera and get things close to how you want it. And it does give it a different look because your composition isn't always perfect. Sometimes the picture is tilted. But I can see where it's better to use the EVF whenever possible. You'll have fewer wasted shots. Since most people know nothing about focal lengths, or what a telephoto lens looks like, if someone asks you if you're taking a picture of them you can always say you were photographing something behind them.

So glad I found this channel, you make great points. I am autistic and thus extremely reclusive; to the point that I never went outside my home unless it was absolutely necessary. At the age of 24, I had lived in 4 different countries and 9 different cities but I never felt any connection to any of these places and never learnt much about the culture because I never left my home. That is when I decided to start street photography so that I can observe the people and the culture more closely. Earlier I used to always be lost in thought, and paid little attention to the surroundings and the people around me, but street photography has completely changed how I see the world.

Wow. I'm already doing all of these. I do the cell phone trick a lot. There's been a few times when I've taken a photo with someone walking towards me and they apologize for ruining my shot. I always tell them they made it better. Something I've done at a restaurant was set my camera on the table and placed the salt shaker just in front of it to have something in the foreground up close. It was out of focus but you could tell what it was. You could see the edge of the table as well. Then I waited for people to walk by the window. I got some good shots doing that. I usual have my camera strap across my body. The Cabrera will hang down my left side but the strap will go around my neck on my right side. Kind of hope some women carry they purse. That way I can hold the camera in either portrait or landscape orientation. I use a 28mm on a full frame. I'm starting to get good at pointing the camera with it hanging down in front of my belly and getting things in the frame. People may notice you with a camera but if you're not holding it up to your face they don't know you're taking a picture of them. I use zone focus so I don't have to use the auto focus. If I want to use a shallow depth of field to get some background blur I'll pre-focus on a spot and wait for someone to walking into that spot. That's a little harder to do sometimes. Another way you can hide is to stand behind the corner with your camera ready and peek around the corner to see when someone is coming and wait for them to get in the right spot.

You're totally right, unfortunately. But things are even worse: Instagram already shows ads in our profile pages. You can't scroll more than 2-3 posts on anyone's page without seeing an ad :(

I come from the age of analog but like the convenience of digital. I actually have the Minolta CLE with 40mm lens. It is now on my Sony A7c. For me its an excellent combination. Up to this point I have been using Voigtlander 35mm and 50mm manual lenses but 40mm hits the sweet spot for me and the other 2 are almost redundant. About 5m and f8 is a good starting point for getting tuned in for street work and a reasonable hit rate. Once confidence builds up you can make adjustments on the go with your left middle finger

Love the cellphone trick. How easy it would be to photography people with a cell phone, and they won't even know it. A camera sticks out now that people have migrated to the cellphone. So many people are engaged with their phone while walking, eating, conversing that they don't even see another person's cellphone. So easy to fake thumbing through messages, Facebook or anything for that matter. Just setup the phone and at the right moment, make contact with the screen. I've done it in casinos where it's frowned on. Privacy, you know. Yet they are being watched by all those cameras on the ceiling.

I have just started trying street photography and have a camera with a tilting screen. It reminded me of my old TLR Mamiya and I found it very natural to use. You gave some useful tips. Thank you. Subscribed & liked.

Hello Oliver, nice sharing your experience of film photography. A couple of things I'd advise you check for your next rolls. First is to get your rangefinder calibrated. It is possible for the rangefinder to go wrong after some time and cause misfocus. You might not need to go so far as to calibrate it, but at least make sure everything's right on that matter. Second is to have your negatives scanned by a professional offering a good image resolution and basic level correction (white balance, color correction, exposure,...). All labs are not equals in that regard, so you need to make a comparison for yourself of the offerings in your area.

You are so lucky to be the proud owner of genuine Minolta CLE. It was only yesterday when I was browsing the Japanese options but all of them are closer to 1400 than 1000 and I might have to pay import taxes, too. As for film photography, from time to time I buy a new film camera and experimenting with it. My biggest problem is that slide film is not available any more. To me reversal film was the pinnacle of film photography. A slide film frame in itself was a piece of miniature art.

I have almost left digital photography completely there is way too much spray and pray and chimping with digital. I originally started in film went to digital 18 years ago and it always felt like there was something missing in my photography it was the artistic look and feel of film. now I shoot with autofocus Canon eos 7e/7ne and I have beautiful negatives and photos. I don't use manual focus anymore unless I'm shooting with my Canon AE-1 and that is not very often however I have no problem using manual focus. I also develop all my own film also have a dark room to do analog prints which is very fun.

I have wanted a pocketable camera for street photography for so long. My other mirrorless cameras are too big for daily carry and I was saving to buy a Ricoh GR3. I just searched for Nikon 1 on Ebay after watching this and ended up buying a near mint condition J2 with 10-30mm lens for £60. Definitely a bargain to try a small camera and see if it fits my use case.

nice video, got me an canon canonet ql17 gIII a month ago and i am totally in love with it, but i feel your stepbacks totally... keep on!

Definitely, all the above! Plus, where I live there are virtually no full service vendors for film and processing services so you have to deal with the online and mail systems, making delays, uncertainties and lack of direct contact the realities of the film experience. Plus, everything is converted to digital anyway so it makes you wonder what’s the difference. Not like it was, “In my day.” (Old man rant.)

Hi Oliver. Great video. I still have a couple of old film SLR's knocking about (Pentax K1000, Nikkormat EL and a Yashica FR1) along with my Fuji's and I have had a go returning to film a couple of times. I just can't get along with the hassle and expense of it now. I just prefer to shoot digital as if it was film, I barely ever look at what I'm shooting until I get home and 'process' - which retains that same feel of 'delayed gratification' and I tend to shoot manual with a lot of zone focusing etc.... You really can shoot digital in the old fashioned way if you let go of the tech a bit and return to the old ways. It helps as well if you have a camera (like the Fujis) that have such nice 'filmy' results. I guess it really IS down to the way you just do things... Anyway all the best and keep up the nice content!

"Kein vernünftiger Mensch würde nach jahrelanger Digitalfotografie zur Analogfotografie zurückkehren?" Das sehe ich aber völlig anders... hab' mir ne vernünftige Analoge gekauft, ein paar Filmrollen eingepackt und ab nach Paris... es war herrlich. Und bin nun völlig angefixt... so kann es auch laufen. Grüsse

J'aime bien vos photos, digne d'un maître. Quand j'étais à l'école de photo à Toulouse, j'hésitais entre la visée télémétrique ou la visée réflex , j'ai préféré la deuxième, plus facile d'emploi. Pour l'appareil photo, avec les objectifs, et de faire de la photo de rues, avec n'importe quel appareil vous pouvez le faire, surtout avec une grande discrétion.. L'emploi du 24 x 36 ou du 6 x 6 est plus pratique.Je comprends pourquoi vous voulez revenir à l'argentique, ce qui est la vrai photo, avec de la profondeur et du modelé dans une pièce ou devant un portrait. Avec le numérique on peut faire de la photo sous la lumière de la lune,avec un temps relativement court, qui est impossible avec l'argentique sous peine d'avoir une photo illisible ( grain ) . J'aimerais dire à tout ceux qui font de la photo de rues, d'avoir des appareils réflex ou non, numériques ou analogiques, dans le deuxième cas, modifier s'il y a lieu selon le cas et tirez le meilleur parti de votre objectif, zoom ou optique fixe ( du grand angle au télé objectif ) si vous aimez vraiment la photo, si vous êtes dans une autre région, avoir un sujet à faire après votre arrivée. Ne jamais oublier le lieu où vous êtes ( café, restaurant hall de gare ou commerce etc) On ne fait pas la même photo dans chaque endroit. Il faut demander, si oui, vous faites la photo, si non, et que le sujet est à son travail faire semblant de cadrer et faites la photo.Pendant 5 ans j'ai fait des photos place du Capitole à Toulouse sur le marché du matin, et dans certains commerces de la place. Si personne ne prête attention à vous, si c'est dans un café, profitez-en au maximum, pareil pour le marché, pareil pour tout sujets.

Use a manual focus lens on your digital camera, slows you down a lot and forces you to frame things better. I’m a big fan of Voigtländer lenses on the Sony A7CR

II shoot both film and digital and relate to much of your experience. When I’m shooting film, the time I need to take to compose and focus makes me better with digital (especially since I usually set aperture and shutter manually with my vintage lenses). Your first experience wasn’t too bad. Personally, I prefer to shoot only black and white film. I just find that the color rendition with film isn’t pleasing to my eye anymore. This is just an opinion but I get some satisfaction from seeing the nice grain of black and white film.

Wenn es noch Kodachrome Slide Film geben würde wäre ich vielleicht auch zurück zu analog gegangen. Der Look war genial, ich liebe die Fotos von Steve McCurry.

Also ich könnte und will nicht wieder zurück zur analogen Fotografie. Wenn ich diese Ergebnisse bekommen hätte, wäre die Kamera direkt in Kleinanzeigen gelandet 😉. Für Leute die noch nie analog fotografiert haben ist es sicherlich spannend, ansonsten verstehe ich den momentanen Hype nicht. Aber es war immer spannend, wenn man die Bilder abgeholt hat. Da waren alle Emotionen dabei, von Freude, Überraschung und Trauer....😂

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I can relate. Having returned to film photography after 15 years of digital only, I have mixed feelings. Pros: it's more involving and, to me, film cameras are more fun to use. I find SLRs easier to focus than rangefinders. Cons: The cost of film and developing and variability of results. Also, limited post processing compared to digital RAW files. Going forward, I'll be doing film only occasionally. The majority of my shooting will be digital.

Hi, i hope you enjoy the video! Here are some tips how to find the perfect analog camera for Street Photography: Portability and Size Compact Design: Smaller, lightweight cameras are easier to carry around and less obtrusive, allowing you to blend into the environment. Rangefinder Cameras: These are often more compact than SLRs and allow for quick manual focusing, making them great for street photography. Ease of Use Manual Controls: Look for cameras with intuitive manual controls for shutter speed, aperture, and focus. Being able to adjust settings quickly is crucial in fast-paced street environments. Simplicity: Cameras with fewer features can sometimes be better for street photography, as they allow you to focus more on composition and timing. Lens Options Fixed vs. Interchangeable Lenses: Decide whether you want a fixed-lens camera or a model with interchangeable lenses. Fixed-lens cameras like the Olympus XA are ultra-compact, while systems like Leica M allow for more versatility. Prime Lenses: Prime lenses (fixed focal length) such as 35mm or 50mm are popular for street photography due to their natural perspective and ability to shoot in low light. Viewfinder and Focusing Rangefinder Systems: Rangefinders like the Leica M series provide a clear viewfinder and precise manual focusing, ideal for capturing fleeting moments. SLR Cameras: Single-lens reflex cameras like the Nikon F series offer through-the-lens viewing and focusing, which some photographers prefer. Durability and Build Quality Robust Construction: Opt for cameras known for their durability and reliability. Vintage models from brands like Nikon, Canon, and Leica are renowned for their solid build quality. Weather Sealing: While not as common in older film cameras, some models offer weather-resistant designs that can withstand various shooting conditions. Metering and Exposure Control Built-in Light Meter: A good built-in light meter can be very handy, especially for those new to film photography. Cameras like the Pentax K1000 have reliable metering systems. Manual Override: Ensure the camera allows for manual exposure settings so you can adapt to different lighting situations quickly. Silent Operation Quiet Shutter Mechanism: Look for cameras with quieter shutters to avoid drawing attention. Rangefinders usually have quieter shutters compared to SLRs. Popular Models for Street Photography Here are some tried-and-true film cameras that street photographers swear by (besides the Minolta CLE): Leica M6: A legendary rangefinder with manual focusing, exceptional build quality, and built-in light meter. Contax T2/T3: Compact, high-quality point-and-shoot cameras with sharp Zeiss lenses and automatic exposure. Olympus XA: An ultra-compact rangefinder with a sharp 35mm f/2.8 lens and simple controls. Nikon FM2: A robust manual SLR with a wide range of interchangeable lenses and reliable performance. Pentax K1000: Known for its simplicity and durability, this SLR is a great choice for beginners. Film Selection Black and White Film: Offers timeless, classic looks. Popular choices include Kodak Tri-X 400 and Ilford HP5 Plus. Color Film: Provides vibrant and realistic colors. Consider Kodak Portra 400 or Fujifilm Pro 400H for excellent color reproduction and latitude. Slide Film: For those who seek high contrast and vivid colors, Fuji Velvia and Kodak Ektachrome are excellent choices. Choosing the right film camera for street photography involves balancing personal preference, shooting style, and practical considerations. The tactile experience of using a film camera and the anticipation of developing your shots can enhance your creativity and connection to the art form. Remember, while having the right equipment is important, your vision and ability to capture compelling moments are what truly define your street photography journey. Happy shooting!

I can't make out the photog that he is referencing at around 6:30.?

*smiles in telephoto*

Hallo Oliver, obwohl ich weder bei Instagram noch bei FB unterwegs bin, sondern einzig und allein hier bei YT, fiel mir eines Tages irgendwann - bedingt durch mein Interesse an qualitativ hochwertiger Street-Fotografie dein Kanal ins suchende Auge. Seitdem bin ich hochinteressiert an deinen Foto-Arbeiten und lausche ebenso gern deinen theoretischen Ausführungen rund um das Thema Street-Fotografie. Außerdem mag ich deine engagierte Art, wie du das, was dich bewegt, in Worte fasst - mit dem nötigen Ernst, aber andererseits nicht selten auch mit einer Prise Humor. So gelingt es dir mMn auf ganz besondere Weise, deine dir am Bildschirm gegenüber sitzenden Menschen zu inspirieren, mit deinen Ideen aufmerksame Augen und Ohren zu erreichen und anderen den Wert kreativen Schaffens zu vermitteln. Das wollte ich an dieser Stelle - mit besten Grüßen - einfach mal geschrieben haben ;-) - Monika