Відео

Put HEI and Sniper 2 on my Buick 455 and man did it wake this thing up! Runs way stronger at all RPM and I would never go back.

I have yet to see an adequate parking brake system on any aftermarket rear disc brake setup.

I found a 2005 V6 Supreme convertible with 104,000 miles. It started out as a fleet vehicle then has had two owners since. Car is immaculate with a little rust on the chassis. The convertible top is in great condition with no signs of wear, loose seams, frayed fabric and rear window is solid. Interior is also immaculate with no tears or scratches on the seats or dash. Car runs great. I am expecting to have issues as with any 20 year old vehicle which most i can replace/repair myself. The old fella wss asking $7800 and at this time we are at $7100. I've not been able to find any 05 V6's less than $6500 that are on decent shape. Looking at this car for my daughter who is turning 16. She doesn't really like the convertible but i haven't been able to find another 05-14 V6 solid top in decent shape for this price. What do you/y'all think is a decent price from the vague description I gave?

Wow! Thanks for this information!!! I have been looking into better lighting for my '64 Ranchero and decided Holley was just too much money for a car I have driven once in the dark. (It's fully restored) I just ordered this kit from my local dealer today (Friday) and it will be here on Monday for $38 including tax! This! This is the Christmas Miracle!!! ;)

Nice balanced review. Been leaning towards one of these for my everyday bike in Guatemala with true dual purpose for when I want to up the trail riding. The Scram will be so much more practical for the everyday stuff and nice to know I can still get scrappy with it.

Scram 440 is on the way.

Good video! Good advice on the fan and spacer. Bad advice on the radiator shroud. If it fits the radiator correctly and matches fan diameter correctly, then it is the MOST important thing you can add to improve engine cooling. On rear disc brakes, I only added them for one reason. They look cool! And Baer (and others) make a well designed integral parking brake.

Could you please tell us where you bought the accessories, especially the windscreen? I purchased the same unit in December of 2024 for cad$4,800 including everything. Shipping and handling was $1,800

The one thing that sucks is they only get 21-22 mpg from new.

Subscribing for the common sense 👍🙌

I'm about to do this on my '95 f350. Been leaking for a while. Hopefully after I get it cleaned out I can give it all a good coating or 2 with bedliner. Like just coat the whole inside.

Wow wee these trucks have gotten expensive

There’s nothing wrong with drum brakes either up front or all the way around. Unless your doing a lot of hard and a lot of breaking like one a race track or heavy road rage driving….lol in my opinion. The problem with drum brakes they get hot quicker and fade if your doing a lot of hard breaking.

I'm a Chevy guy but love your car. I'm with you on the EFI. For older GM cars and trucks a HEI swap is a big upgrade in my personal experience. Having said that electronic plugin type modules on the market today are often chinesium unreliable junk.

Well I'll be dipped 💯👍🏽

Do you still have your bonneville?

Low profile tires don't belong on classics in my opinion. I was surprised when the 2005 Mustang came out. It had 65 series tire so the Mustang still had a decent amount of sidewall showing to go along with the retro body style.

@3:32 i see this guy has never had points take a dump on him or having to set the points ever 20k . Electric ignitions are for everything you said PLUS reliability. You can also keep a spare icm

I just bought one similar to yours. Mine is not the Pony. It’s a 2005 with a manual transmission and 62,000 actual miles. It is totally original with no mods. The car is fun to drive the way it is. I am the second owner. May add some mods later, but I am satisfied for now. It’s my 3rd V6 Mustang. Couldn’t ever afford the GT. Enjoyed your video. The others that I owned were a 2000 and a 2012, both automatics. Should have kept my 12, but during a weaker moment, I traded it for a 2018 Tacoma.

It's that Edelbrock fuel injection!! That shit will get you every time!!

That was a hoot! Your effective use of mind numbing drivel to explain not complex scenarios was top notch! Loved it. :)

Thank you for the information on the trunk lid i sandpaper my tires gives some miles on them nice looking cars 👍

A couple things you left out are loud exhausts and those tacky looking straight pipe or chrome exhaust tips coming out the rear of the car. Also those huge wheels with tiny tires look ridiculous. Now on your Ford points issue; Fords are a PITA if you use a dwell meter to finely dial in your dwell to make the car perform its best under hot and cold conditions. GM points (who cares if they're in the rear) are so easy to do. They're one assembly (points/condenser) and pre-gapped to get the car running. Stick your allen wrench through the little garage door and the dwell is easily dialed in very quickly. On my 67 Impala SS (327 4V/THM400) that my grandfather bought brand new; the only modifications I've made are a NAPA electric choke kit which just has a little black block resting against a heater hose. The GM little "hot box" chokes were a joke. This NAPA one has worked flawlessly for several decades on the Quadrajet carb. I've also done a dual exhaust, but as "OEM" looking and sounding as possibly, but it did give it a bit more oomph. I also did a quartz clock movement conversion on the clock a few decades ago and it still ticks along great to this day. Other than those things, my car is as stock as it can be.

Good rant! I did not manage to read all the comments, so maybe this was already mentioned: I used to be per-occupied with having fuel injection/electronic ignition, in the past, simply because I did not have experience with carbed engines and never managed to own one in good operating condition to begin with. Once I've got a couple of older cars and learned to properly operate the carb/points combo, never doing any more of the unnecessary "improvements" screwing up my classics 😅

On the points subject. I highly agree that the self-serviceablity of a mechanical ignition system is an excellent plus, and consistent with the values of someone who also likes carburetors because they allow the same self serviceability but for your fueling. However, if you have purchased a classic that hasn't been cared for, doing a revival, or for any other reason need new points ignition components (points, condenser, etc.) the parts they make now SUCK. I brought two new sets of points and two new condensers with my to go get my Uncle's F-100 running again for the first time in 20 years. ALL of them failed. Both sets of points were supplying constant ground (were not breaking ground when opening on the distributor cam) to the coil and therefore it would not build any juice. One condenser had shorted into itself. The other may have worked - seemed fine. But I can't say for sure because the truck never made noise and yes, the factory points and condenser were beyond saving. While the factory points did break ground when open (like they're supposed to), thebrubbing block was wasted and the actual contacts were worn down from decades of use and constant sanding to keep them sparkin. That was enough for me. Maybe the Pertronix could fail, and maybe it's not as badass and old school as I'd prefer (I did try to save the points for a reason), but I just don't trust the quality of reproduced parts these days and I'm not screwing with that junk anymore. Should mention that both sets of points and both condensers were from two different brands. On top of that, the same argument could be made for electronic ignitions that you can just keep a spare Pertronix Ignitor I or II in your glove box since you probably won't find one at O'Reilly. Might be a bit more expensive but still the same rule applies. They're stupid easy to install and saving as much money as possible isn't exactly the foundation of the classic car hobby. Carburetors are a totally differrent story though. Edlebrock, Holley, and all sub brands like Quick Fuel all still make excellent quality units and parts and even your old Rochestors, Motorcrafts, and Webers can be kept up with decent quality rebuild kits and an owners manual or quick dive on a forum. Basically boils down to this: Points ignitions don't have the reproduction and late model parts support that carburetors have. So while I am a die hard carburetor guy, the points will be reserved for when I find factory examples in good condition. Who knows maybe one day people will start to love em again. Lots of old school self reliance type junk is getting popular again.

May I please add, giant wheels and rubber band tires?

I completely agree. Points will always get you home. A matchbook in the glove box is all you need : the striker to clean the points, the cover to gap them and you're on your way. When an electronic ignition goes out - and I've had three of them fail - you're done. And I'll keep my Carter AFB, thank you. The one thing I cannot stand on old muscle cars is 16 inch or larger wheel and tire combinations, the look is absolutely hideous.

Good common sense video

The thing people seem to forget, is the more stuff you add on or modify, the higher probability of something failing causing lots of headaches, will be the cliche of “unreliable old car”. The only thing I would modify which applies to cars built before 1963, would be to ditch the road draft tube, replacing it with a PCV valve. While the road draft tube may have worked many years ago, doesn’t do anything to remove vapors from the engine and can cause seals to blow out if it were to get clogged or restricted with something.

Point ignition, not a problem , But 1975 hei on GM works and works.

Thank you sir! Owner’s preference. Builds have “needs” and “wants” Street build,Track, Daily driver, Sunday cruiser all have different levels of functions. Then you have Restoration shops wanting to suck your account dry. This is a TORNADO topic and I love all the points people make to justify their opinions. It’s car politics. … now I’m gonna get back to porting and polishing my heads for my very otherwise stock engine

They have put sbc's in to many cars that aren't Chevys. I like the motor and badge to match.

This guy's an idiot

And here I am a guy wishing it was legal (here in scandinavia) to put a carb and points ignition on a jeep cherokee xj. And drum brakes rear are just awesome (unless one drives like a speedfreak) always lubing up the rear disc brakes a few times a year on my own and wifes car because they are not used enough and sticking....

Wanna learn something about old cars? Go watch (this old tony) yeah he's a Mopar guy but he knows his stuff inside n out and realistic as hell.

Former restorer here. - I totally get wanting to keep something stock. It works, it's simple, and often much cheaper to maintain. I think a car should suit the drivers needs. The reason I prefer resto-mod over stock is to improve the capabilities. My 66 Caprice has 4 shocks in the rear for better cornering, I swapped out the TH350 for a 700r4 to get a very much needed overdrive, I did the 4 wheel disc for better braking (even going backwards), and easier maintenance. - I hate messing with drum brakes. 😃 Running a 355 built for alcohol at 13:1 with a long duration cam and the motor runs cleaner inside than any stock one I've had. I'm still running Mallory Unilite components from the 80's. Absolutely love them.

1. Theres more SBC's under old ford hoods than ford for a reason. 2. HEI is on point and runs hotter , easier to service , extends plug life and doesn't bounce at high RPM and just plain more reliable. 3. I agree on carbs , just use the right one for displacement, bigger ain't always better. Power and performance is a balancing game. 4.at least get a light weight flex fan, that bomber propeller sucks power at all RPMs and doesn't do any good at freeway speeds. BEST, go electric pusher , works when you need 'em, doesnt chop off fingers , doesnt suck HP and gets stuff out from under the hood that you have to worry about and work around.just a big win! 5.BRAKES. disc front, drum back, yep! And get the best you can ! Well worth every penny. 6.GET SOME BLOODY HEADERS! And cross overs on the straightest pipes you can .every bend sucks power. The least resistance improves mileage and performance. Quit being a car fudd , they built these things as cheap and quickly as they could to make money , theres tons of potential in these old engines , but they needed to just make the general public happy.

Pertronics are a good swap on older stock Ford distributors when there is lots of wear on the dizzy cam and you're not building some high HP motor. That being said a new or rebuilt distributor would be a better idea. I'm a Ford guy but I'll admit Ford distributors are not the best. A better coil would make sense too.

But you robbed a bunch of free power with that fan. Electric fan the way to go. Cold weather no fan blowing=warming up quicker. No fan turning while driving down the road=more power. Working on the engine=not cutting your fingers off lol

I swapped to GM HEI

but if your rear brakes aren't effective then your front brakes have to do ALL the work which will lead to fade. it's really not too hard to figure this one out and anyway who says "don't upgrade your brake system"??? what a poor take 👎

Agree to all, but one point. Cooling, fan and shroud. Hear me out. I went with a fan with a built on shroud that allows it to pull air through the entire core. Keep in mind we have added AC as well. We were able to remove the fan blade of course and the water pump lasted for over 20yrs. Life of the water pump is increased when you remove the weight of the spinning fan, and it does add some HP back, there will be less lost through the added amperage on the alternator. 6:24

None of your points are valid and reveal someone who has very limited formal education or professional experience regarding these topics. Please stop giving bad advice if you can't be bothered to do proper research on the video subjects..

fyi, GM distributors are on the rear of the engine, disc brakes dont need adjusting like drum brakes do and last longer

The fuel line comes through the bigger hole

Aluminum is too soft. The groove just wears out. The belt can't squeez into it. The belt just bottoms out in the groove.

On cooling it depends on where you're at. I saw 70s fords over heat when new in fl summer. Those 400 f150 ran hot.

Amen!! Everyone knows the guy that needs to rechip and mod. the intake for ( better) performance. Ya right. Auto manufacturers have spent millions engineering your car for optimal performance. The after market is often just reengineering what has been done already, just to sell you something.

100%

you spoke my mind 👍