Відео

Your car is right on the change from the 169 to the newer 319, so as you have asked on our vid, I will go on that one :) -- its not the easiest job as the parts to fit, just are not exact (we had two goes at this) but since we did this car, I spoke with audiotechdirect.com 01691 886130 about our pickup, they were really helpful and got me the parts in needed - ordering on line we have made many errors and wasted £££ - so my suggestion is call them, tell them the car and what you want (bluetooth etc or apple carplay etc ) and they will tell you what you need - there are lots of cheap looking parts on AliExpress etc, but they are always rubbish and never fit well, so you will spend less in the long run and get a better unit - lastly, will not affect sensors. Best of luck

It does - emery is more for metal, I used 80 grit - thats because its all the shop had :) Hope you noticed my elbow, twice for no reason I took the skin off :) best of luck, its quite satisfying !

What, the mirror you are looking in 🪞

🤣 we are utterly useless at buying cars - its a long hard search for a 4x4 Panda, hope you find a good one.

@@DrivenMadShow maybe I'll settle for a 1.2 2wd until I've been there a while

Oooohhh handbags at 10 paces - the turbo was rebuilt, never said we did it - so when is rebuilt not a rebuild ? "Rebuilt" is the past tense and past participle of the verb "rebuild." It means to construct, restore, or repair something that has been damaged, destroyed, or worn out, bringing it back to a functional or improved state. For example: - After the fire, the house was **rebuilt** from the ground up. - The car was **rebuild** using parts from different models or new components. In general, "rebuild" refers to the act of restoring something to a previous state, sometimes with enhancements or upgrades - now that fella, is what took place to the turbo ?

Indeed- but mate, the title is "turbo rebuild" with no actual turbo rebuild, like the actual turbo yeah? Not watching someone do what I've already done which is a freshen up, clean what you can and replace what you can't. The only reason I flicked thru both videos is that I have an old leaking vt16 left over from a customer's job replacing and cleaning the whole intake system and working out if it's worth a rebuild, core swap or its a doorstop

No, you flicked through to stroke your micro penis to spaff over the screen, don't be coy, its clear you are only commenting for some man on man action 💦

Nah, I am bi- but I wanted my nipples hard over variable geometry turbo internals all over a bench. You did not deliver 🍆🎉🚫

😂 now we love you - you are our kind of fella

or crap microphone and inept users :)

I am a lucky fella - old and falling to bits, but warm in the sun 😎

Odd company Mitsubishi

I tried an Android, that properly showed up my ignorance … Apple is for dummies 😂🕺🏽😂 with too much cash ( dumb yes, it’s the cash bit I am missing 🙃)

The s24 ultra battery is actually much better than the s23 and s22 ultra's Same battery size, but they must have done something with the rest of the hardware and/or software. As it lasts ages more than the phones before it.

Are you saying we are thick wads 🤡

Ours was a B200 Turbo petrol - self park suprised me too, was the first Mercedes with an S class to get it (had to look that up when we discovered it) it parked perfectly as well. Just don't get a sunroof, notorious for breaking as did ours, made the car a write off :(

Oh I was - tried a few times, cannot believe we were stupid enough not to cover the back of the seat - I am a 🤡

some possible solutions. ### 1. **Hard Starting and Smoky Engine (Cold Start Issues)** The hard starting followed by excessive smoke for the first minute could be indicative of a few issues: - **Fuel delivery issues:** The engine may not be getting the right amount of fuel at startup. This could be due to clogged fuel injectors, a failing fuel pump, or a problem with the fuel filter. - **Glow plugs:** Since you mentioned a Pajero engine, it may use glow plugs to help with cold starts. If the glow plugs are faulty or not operating correctly, it could lead to hard starting and excessive smoke. Check the glow plug system, including the relay and wiring. - **Compression issues:** Over time, wear and tear on the engine could cause poor compression, which can result in hard starting and smoke. A compression test will confirm if this is the case. - **Engine oil viscosity:** If the oil is too thick for cold temperatures, it can cause the engine to start hard and smoke until it warms up. Ensure you're using the correct grade of oil for your climate. - **Air-fuel mixture:** A malfunctioning sensor or injector could be causing an overly rich mixture, which could explain the smoking issue. It might be worth checking the air intake system, injectors, and sensors (e.g., mass air flow sensor or oxygen sensors). ### 2. **Vacuum Issues and Turbo/EGR Solenoids Not Receiving Vacuum** You mentioned that there's no vacuum to the turbo and EGR valve solenoids, which are responsible for controlling engine airflow and exhaust gases. This could lead to several performance issues. - **Vacuum leak or blockage:** Since you're not getting vacuum to the solenoids, check for any vacuum leaks or blockages in the vacuum hoses. Even a small crack in a hose can prevent proper vacuum pressure. Inspect all the lines going to the turbo solenoid, EGR solenoid, and brake booster. - **Vacuum pump failure:** The fact that you have vacuum to the brake booster but not the solenoids could indicate an issue with the vacuum pump, or there may be a failure in the vacuum control system. Check the vacuum pump and its connections to ensure it's functioning correctly. - **Solenoid failures:** It's possible that the turbo and EGR solenoids themselves are faulty and not allowing vacuum to pass through. If the solenoids are clogged or damaged, they may need to be replaced. - **EGR valve sticking:** The EGR valve itself could be stuck or malfunctioning, especially if it's clogged with carbon. Clean the valve and check the solenoid's wiring. - **4x4 Engagement:** The 4x4 system not engaging could be related to the vacuum issue, as the transfer case and front differential may rely on the same vacuum system for proper operation. If the solenoids or vacuum control is malfunctioning, it may prevent 4x4 from engaging. ### 3. **Front Wheels Not Engaging (4x4 System Not Working)** This issue could be related to the vacuum problems you've described above. The 4x4 system on many vehicles, including the L200, relies on vacuum-actuated hubs or solenoids. Here are some possible causes: - **Vacuum not reaching the solenoids:** Since you're not getting vacuum to the solenoids, this could prevent the front wheels from engaging. The solenoids control the engagement of the front axle, and if they don't receive vacuum, the system won't work. - **Faulty 4x4 solenoid:** The 4x4 solenoid itself could be malfunctioning. If the solenoid doesn't activate properly, the front axle won't engage. If you can hear the solenoid clicking when you engage the 4x4, but the front wheels don't engage, the solenoid may need to be replaced. - **Transfer case actuator issue:** The transfer case actuator, which shifts the transfer case to 4x4 mode, could be faulty. Inspect the actuator and its electrical connections. - **Electrical issues:** If there’s an electrical problem with the 4x4 switch, wiring, or connections, it could be preventing the 4x4 system from engaging. Inspect the wiring and fuses for any issues. ### Next Steps: 1. **Diagnose the vacuum system:** Check all the vacuum hoses and solenoids for leaks or damage. Ensure the vacuum pump is working properly and that the solenoids are getting the right pressure. You can use a vacuum gauge to test if there’s proper vacuum being generated. 2. **Inspect the starting system:** Test the glow plugs, fuel system (injectors, fuel pump), and engine compression. A compression test can reveal whether the engine is suffering from internal wear. If you have access to an OBD scanner, check for any error codes that could indicate sensor or ECU issues. 3. **Check for EGR and Turbo Issues:** Clean or replace the EGR valve and turbo solenoids if necessary. Carbon buildup in the EGR valve can cause poor performance, and malfunctioning solenoids will affect the engine’s efficiency. 4. **Inspect the 4x4 System:** Start by testing the vacuum to the 4x4 solenoids. If the vacuum system is working, the problem may lie with the solenoids or transfer case actuator. If no vacuum is present, investigate further into the vacuum pump and hoses. By following these steps, you should be able to narrow down the root cause of the issues and resolve them accordingly. If you’re unsure or lack the necessary tools, it may be helpful to take the vehicle to a professional mechanic for a thorough inspection.

@DrivenMadShow allot of good info! thank you! today i testet all the solenoids, and i found 2 faulty solenoids. the ones in front.of the driver side, located under the windscreen...i think they give or block vacuum to the turbo and egr solenoids... i tested the current for glow plugs...i have 72 Amps.for 10 seconds when is 2 degrees outside...but i not sure what is the airflow sensor...and how to check... the compresion test...i will thinck to.do...

@DrivenMadShow i used a china obd that i use for vag cars...but is not working with mithubishi! i think the protocol is different...can you tell me what obd adaptors are compatible with L200 for 2004...? thank you very much!

Need to stop that malarkey ! you could put your back out ....... I killed the Vitara 3 days in, luckily got the cash back !

Because we are stupid, forgetful and lazy (might as well be honest !) sorry ...

The Renault looks awesome - my sister had a GTL back in the day, I drooled over it - I remember driving a GT Turbo as well, but could not get insured on it to buy one, think I was 22 or so :)

Thats a good thing I think 😂 - sorry

We are the opposite - no experience, but it's warm 😂 - we are spoiled with the man cave as well - but sounds a great idea if you can do it -, on a 22K vehicle thats poor, our K74 is on 290000 kms :) ( and he drifts it everywhere - oh to be in my 20's again - hang on, I was on a push bike at 23 !)

@ I have since found out dmf failure is common on twin air pandas and 500’s one guy had 2 fail 48,000 and 92,000 but it seems 20,000 was a common failure point back in the day .

I mean the metal part which you take it out from the car at the 04:57 of the video.

Sorry, we chucked it (to make it worse, I would have just sent it to you, no money needed)

Confused - this is the front spring (sorry if misunderstanding) these may interest you ua-cam.com/video/nFJodkz37o4/v-deo.html. ua-cam.com/video/mpkpUlgEhWA/v-deo.html. ua-cam.com/video/_jOp5cwcZ3Y/v-deo.html

Yes, you can typically replace the coolant temperature sensor (the green part you're referring to) without needing to drain the entire coolant system, but there are a few things to keep in mind: Locate the Sensor: The coolant temperature sensor is often mounted on or near the thermostat housing or cylinder head. It's usually a small, green or blue connector, depending on the manufacturer. Prepare for Some Coolant Loss: While you don't need to drain the whole system, you should expect some coolant to spill out when you remove the sensor. You can catch this coolant in a clean container or place a rag under the sensor to minimize mess. Allow Engine to Cool: Before replacing the sensor, make sure the engine is completely cool to avoid burns or injury from hot coolant. Replacement Process: Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor. Use the appropriate tool (usually a socket or wrench) to unscrew the sensor. Some sensors might require a special socket. Quickly install the new sensor to minimize coolant loss. Reconnect the electrical connector and ensure the sensor is securely in place. Check Coolant Level: After replacing the sensor, top off your coolant if necessary. If a significant amount of coolant was lost during the replacement, make sure to check the coolant level once the engine has cooled down. Clear Codes (if applicable): If your car's engine management system has a diagnostic code for the sensor, make sure to clear the code using an OBD-II scanner after replacing the sensor.

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Kein Problem, freut mich, dass es geholfen hat - und Grüße von einem sonnigen Spaziergang in Portugal 😎

Clever, clearly we are not 😂 tips always appreciated

Lots of them still on the road, could not be all bad ! (going up in value here in Portugal !)

@@DrivenMadShow good ones in UK holding price. Possibly a future classic. Bought one as a run about while g wagon gets much needed work done but really like the w163. Worth holding onto I think.

Perfect - great result :)

👍🏼

All I can say is faultless - works perfectly

We have played around with the front since we got it :) we did not specifically move it for the G shackles, it just made it look right once they were on (no real help, sorry) and never touched them since.

We use the 25 and a 35 - depends on the angle we can get on and the joint condition

@@DrivenMadShow we bought the 25mm thank you 😎 and followed your instruction, just needed to swap a corroded ball joint. Thank you 🙏

Good job - oddly enjoy smacking it free 😃

Looking on line when we got it - it is inevitable rather than something you do

Should have got a dog to match me, bald :)

Just a wicked car :)

👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 - no reply can compete with this one ... this is top draw stuff🤣, Nath spotted it first and could not wait to show me -🙇🏿‍♂️

I think so too!

YES THERE IS BUT WE DON'T WANT YOU CALLING IT - YOU WOULD BE SHOUTING 🤣

This one might help ua-cam.com/video/JssEM-iVC-4/v-deo.htmlsi=BpFVeWKQbf7Jsq5r

Same to you :)

We bought it at the local main dealer - regret doing so, as that ended up not being our issue - try a 10 euro on on Amazon first !

Nath is in the UK for 24 hours, as his buddy just bought an immaculate S1 (gone for the collection trip) , only 20000 miles £10K - here, cannot find one with low KM's but in the 30000's for high KM, slightly tatty versions - you have possibly found the only thing good about the UK :) car prices 🤣 - hope you are safe from the floods, horrendous

@@adamthewolf756 My main thought about this would be vacuum lines. Especially having removed the intake manifold I would suspect that a vacuum line has been missed or damaged. I’ve had it a vacuum line split with my truck. I’d recommend getting a vacuum diagram from a forum or google and do a visual inspection on them all, This is the best place to start, if there’s no issue maybe then look into a sensor or actuator. Many thanks DrivenMad

@@DrivenMadShow Thanks mate I honestly think this might be the problem my actuator is fairly old never changed its still stock one same with the solenoid. Car done 235,000 km on the clock do you think its coming to its near end of life ?

@@adamthewolf756 Well mine is the 2.5 diesel and has done nearly 300,000km. Strong as a horse engine wise! I’m not familiar with the v6 but if it’s been maintained well it shouldn’t be an issue. Thanks again for the comments 👍

PS for sure check all the vacuum lines - some on mine are really hidden behind the engine - I missed a tiny (pin hole) in one at the back, replaced actuator, sensor and still had the problem - credit where credit is due - the old boy found it as I was 100% all lines were good and gave up on that possibly being an issue - I had replaced them all (so I thought !!)

So nice of you - thank you

It really is!, just peel it off (the more you add, the easier it peels off !)

We are the blunt instruments - the only reason we do this, is that we are as good as the local mechanics here - and we are sh1te 🤣

So far so good ...... done a 5K trip around Spain since

Glad you enjoyed it

The big girl has been a handful - lets not jinx it, running like a Swiss watch now !