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Headpoint Handbook
Приєднався 15 січ 2023
We are the Quiet Subculture. History. Storytelling. Hard Climbing. Join us. ⚒️
Top 10 Worst Trad Climbing Falls Analysis
Today we analyze my 10 worst falls in The Gunks
0:00 Intro
1:20 El Kabong
2:25 Cars That Eat People
3:46 Bird Brain
6:38 Bird Brain (again)
9:12 V7
13:57 Cilley Dicken
20:30 Death's Head Mask
24:17 Boogey Man
28:29 Devine Wind
31:46 Bone Hard
38:37 Outro
0:00 Intro
1:20 El Kabong
2:25 Cars That Eat People
3:46 Bird Brain
6:38 Bird Brain (again)
9:12 V7
13:57 Cilley Dicken
20:30 Death's Head Mask
24:17 Boogey Man
28:29 Devine Wind
31:46 Bone Hard
38:37 Outro
Переглядів: 3 420
Відео
Forbidden Zone 5.12c R Second Ascent | Headpointing In The Gunks
Переглядів 1,5 тис.Місяць тому
Why are there two routes named Forbidden Zone in the Gunks? We have no idea. Today we go to battle with hot conditions, tricky placements and dropped gear on an untraveled, dangerous line on the Workout Wall. 0:00 Intro 2:07 Mock Lead 2:48 Lead Attempt 4:15 Eraserhead 5.12a 4:58 New Beta 5:40 Sending Forbidden Zone 5.12c R 9:34 Outro
Ultimate Top Rope Solo Bungee Showdown
Переглядів 1,5 тис.2 місяці тому
Today we compare and contrast the Avant bungee and the Kingsbury bungee for TR Soloing systems. Avant Climbing Innovations Bungee: avantclimbing.com/products/tr-solo-neck-bungee-universal-fit Arizona Mountaineering Gear Bungee: arizonamountaineeringgear.store/collections/bungees
Word Of Mouth 5.12b | Headpointing In The Gunks
Переглядів 9522 місяці тому
Today we get out to Word Of Mouth, a 5.12b in the Trapps with Brandon. To see more awesome footage of a ground up ascent of this route, check out Christian Fracchia's "Moments of Doubt" ua-cam.com/video/ZoA-t9KbKms/v-deo.html&ab_channel=GunksApps 0:00 History 2:00 Intro 3:30 Sending Word of Mouth 9:48 Outro
Channel Update | Headpointing LIFE
Переглядів 3142 місяці тому
A quick update on our channel direction and upcoming videos. Jesus Crucified by @myndful_mystic on IG www.myndfulmystic.com/prints/p/st-martha-of-bethany-7n59t Brush Thy Board flag from @raviolibiceps
Saint of Circumstance 5.12d R Second Ascent | Headpointing in Looking Glass
Переглядів 5 тис.4 місяці тому
Today we get out to a dynamic, pumpy, R rated slab in the North Side of looking glass, with first ascentionist Ben Kegan. 0:00 Intro 1:00 Ben Keegan Interview 5:20 Working the route 9:30 Day 3 intro 12:30 Gear overview 13:50 Sending Saint of Circumstance 22:55 Outro
Thumbs Up 5.13a X FFA | Headpointing in The Gunks
Переглядів 4,5 тис.8 місяців тому
Today Jordan gets a take down of the last remaining top rope problem in the Sleepy Hollow area of The Gunks.
The Fall 5.11a R | Headpointing in The Gunks
Переглядів 1,9 тис.8 місяців тому
Today we follow Adam on a ground-up ascent of The Fall, an excellent first 5.11 headpoint for those interested in the style,
Death's Head Mask 5.12d X | Headpointing in The Gunks
Переглядів 6 тис.8 місяців тому
Today we lock eyes with the Death's Head Mask and live to tell the tale. We end with some bonus footage from Andy Salo of his send on this spooky route. Grab a Punky hook @fierroequip on IG 0:00 disclaimer 1:21 intro 1:37 route history 3:50 gear breakdown 5:00 hook demo 6:47 fall attempt 9:01 send 16:31 exit interview 18:19 acknowledgments 20:33 Andy Salo send
Boogey Man 5.12b R | Headpointing in The Gunks
Переглядів 1,5 тис.9 місяців тому
Today we drop some older footage of our last remaining line in the Workout Wall area of the Gunks. We also follow Sabrina on her (forgotten) goal of sending five 5.12s in a season.
Mayflowers 5.12a R | Headpointing in The Gunks
Переглядів 1,7 тис.9 місяців тому
Today we get out with Jordan and get a team take down of a delicate, run out, Gunks slab.
Techo Stuff 5.12a R | Headpointing in The Gunks
Переглядів 90910 місяців тому
Today we get out and make quick work of Techo Stuff 5.12a R, a good first headpoint for anybody interested in trying this style of climbing.
To Be Or Not To Be 5.12a X | Headpointing in The Gunks
Переглядів 4,1 тис.Рік тому
I hope you like 60 foot fall potential through sustained 5.11 climbing, because today we follow Kevin on an undisputed classic, and this is exactly what we get. With a bonus send on Farewell to Fingers 12a R Your local crag is scary? We come from The Gunks, so all your threats are empty. 0:00 Intro 0:31 History 1:36 Background 4:00 To Be or Not To Be 10:23 Post-climbing Interview 11:58 Farewell...
No Solution 5.12a X | Headpointing in The Gunks
Переглядів 4,4 тис.Рік тому
Today we revisit something really scary.
Kama Sutra 5.12a R | Headpointing in The Gunks
Переглядів 1,5 тис.Рік тому
Kama Sutra 5.12a R | Headpointing in The Gunks
Persistent 5.11d, Resistoflex 5.12a, Survival of the Fittest 5.13a | Lost City, The Gunks
Переглядів 3,4 тис.Рік тому
Persistent 5.11d, Resistoflex 5.12a, Survival of the Fittest 5.13a | Lost City, The Gunks
Eraserhead 5.12a | Headpointing In The Gunks
Переглядів 2 тис.Рік тому
Eraserhead 5.12a | Headpointing In The Gunks
Forbidden Zone 5.11 R | Headpointing in the Gunks
Переглядів 955Рік тому
Forbidden Zone 5.11 R | Headpointing in the Gunks
Shut Up and Eat Your Greens 5.12b R | Headpointing in The Gunks
Переглядів 1,6 тис.Рік тому
Shut Up and Eat Your Greens 5.12b R | Headpointing in The Gunks
Farewell To Fingers 5.12a R | Headpointing in The Gunks
Переглядів 709Рік тому
Farewell To Fingers 5.12a R | Headpointing in The Gunks
Devine Wind 5.12a R Second Ascent | Headpointing in The Gunks
Переглядів 663Рік тому
Devine Wind 5.12a R Second Ascent | Headpointing in The Gunks
Shock Therapy 5.12a R, The Numbers Racket 5.12a R | Headpointing in the Gunks
Переглядів 1,1 тис.Рік тому
Shock Therapy 5.12a R, The Numbers Racket 5.12a R | Headpointing in the Gunks
Helmet?
right there on my head
Do you mind explaining why your 5.8 gunks falls were so bad and any lessons you learned from them?
Hey, 5.8 in the gunks can be sandbagged for the grade, with some ledgey falls and traversing or varied terrain, so I really did mean that even though it's a joke! Maybe I can do a separate video on lessons for budding trad leaders.
Thanks for putting this together!
Thanks for taking the 40 minutes to watch it! I appreciate it.
Can we all agree that not wearing a helmet is irrational, there really are no downsides.
You didn't heed the warning. I have no choice but to...disagree with you.
@@headpointhandbookwhy do not like climbing with a helmet?
@@stephenhanselmann3443 I don't have any particular reason. It's simply personal preference. I think the risk of being injured in a fall without a helmet is incredibly unlikely and can be mitigated in other ways. If I was ice or alpine climbing I'd for sure wear one, but I don't hate myself so I'll likely never do those things lol
Last fall clip gave me chills when I saw how the bolt on the cam caught you. 😬
You shoulda saw my chills when I recovered it like that.
Awesome video. Appreciate all the content you put out.
Thank you, glad you've stuck with me. Hope it helps!
Great camera work (and climb)!
Good detached pillar there to film from! Glad you liked it.
Great video! Thanks for sharing. Lots of good stuff to think about
Thank you! Hoping to help people develop a more rational and less fear based approach to their own climbing.
love your videos bro. I learn so much from watching you. This channel is so underrated
Thanks dude, be safe out there! No shortcuts.
And sorry for focus on Cilley Dicken as it seems like there's been a lot of chat about it (this is my first time seeing it), but the logic of anchoring Sabrina with a cam was to stop her from shooting upwards to prevent a groundie? Do you think there might have been a different result if she was free to move dynamically?
No problem, I appreciate you asking. Yea for sure, I think it was hard to anticipate how far I would fall, so anchoring seemed like the best decision. I think anchoring tighter would be the option in the future, because a ground fall there would be much worse(higher likelihood) with no anchor.
Love the fall analysis, hilarious yet insightful. You don’t think that if there’s a low crux with dodgy gear like on Bird Brain, it would be prudent for the belayer to basically brace for impact with the climber, given the higher likelihood of that happening? Maybe a football uniform would have been useful 😅
Hey dude, missing you as usual. I think yea, your partner diving to hopefully catch you in the event of a bad fall would be pre-discussed and part of a dangerous belay, maybe even injuring themselves in the process. We need black diamond branded shoulder pads.
Lack of helmets on belayer is recipe for a disaster. Im not even that experienced but everytime I been outdoors there has been rockfall.
Interesting, I’ve climbed almost every where you can name over the last 15 years and the only time there was rock fall it was the size of a large microwave and it certainly would’ve killed me, helmet or not. I responded to another comment here about how I feel about Sabrina’s lack of helmet on the cilley dicken fall.
You may be climbing on choss. When I started sport climbing, due to fear of falling my friends and I would often limit ourselves to mid-5.10. After we’d climb the finger few classics, we’d be left with zero or one star sub 5.10’s that are incredibly chossy and not repeated often. Rockfall (usually small) would happen all the time.
@@ericmarx3373 Do you climb indoors you mean?
I never wear a Bicycle helmet. One little wrinkle dinkle. I would suggest to not tell potential subscribers that your channel is not for someone that wants to complain about not wearing a helmet. Let them complain in the comments, it is engagement. You don't have to respond. Unless it is really insulting, then delete it.
Hey dude, nah all good, I'm just about never insulted by anything, I appreciate your comment. First, NEVER? are you CRAZY/?? I'm cancelling you. Haha, yea, you're right and I didn't think of that, it would drive more engagement. The thing with that though is that I don't care. I know that this channel has a very niche audience, and I also don't/won't make any significant money doing this, and don't need to. I'm essentially free to be who I am, to be totally honest in my videos and to have the luxury of telling the helmet police to shove it. Being honest and being myself is worth more to me than youtube engagement. If I wanted to be a youtuber I would make indoor bouldering videos. Thanks again for your comment, I really do like it.
@@headpointhandbook That is actually good. I had friends that want to be "UA-camrs" and they get kind of self absorbed. But you are welcome to send me one of the free helmets they probably send you to endorse. That you never wear. I might wear it.
@@neaituppi7306 Hahaha If I ever pick up a brand name sponsorship and they send me a helmet, I mean this in all seriousness, I will ship it to you completely free before anybody else.
Super cool stuff as usual! Definitely helpful for me, a relatively new trad climber aspiring to tackle consequential terrains! Not trying to be those annoying judgmental helmet polices. In all the lead fall you analyzed helmet wouldn't do shit for the leaders (or even making the leader easier to fall, like James Pearson mentioned), but it seems useful for belayers. In the whipper you hit your wife, perhaps a helmet would have better protected her head from slamming into the wall. I'm just curious about your take on helmet for leaders and belayers. No judgement implied :)
Thanks! I'm psyched you asked. It's hard to say, maybe if she WAS wearing a helmet she would have skated her head up and off the rock and drove her eye socket into that corner instead? Or maybe she would have skated down and been totally fine. It really is hard to know and I'm not convinced after hours of thought that she would have been better with a helmet in this particular fall. Of course, my general advice is to wear a helmet, though I don't.
The not realizing you broke your ankle is wild. I'm currently walking around on a visibly bad ankle injury, and it's got me thinking 🤔
Get an xray dude! It'll take 20 minutes at a city MD.
With the weather finally feeling more like fall I've been getting antsy to get back to work on bonehard. Definitely going to reevaluate that gear. And clip that old piton mid crux.
I was too damn weak for that piton at the time, I'd give you my new gear beta if you like. Let's go dude I'm psyched! Future Shock direct right there is my main project for the fall.
@@headpointhandbook I have no problem taking gear beta on headpoints!!
Wait, you fall?
I try as hard as I can not to lol
Actually, "take your friend's pants when they offer them to you" is a lesson that I have put to use quite often, but never when climbing.
Give me your pants right now
Kinda wild people were mad at you for that person swinging in on you on bird brain. It was lucky she missed you, but it seemed like not really anyone's fault. I'm sure it was a lesson for her as well!
Hey, yea they were upset that I climbed in her rope line, which clearly isn't what happened. I haven't been upset about it since the moment it happened. They still ignore me at the cliff, but I'll just keep saying hi, and walking by. Thankfully, I have plenty of friends.
@@headpointhandbook Wow weirdly petty of them... Good mindset though, keep on keeping on and all.
Dude did you do this in July ??
80 degrees and 40% humidity is condis!
hello, my comment disapear so I rewrite it in a shorter style: you would probably not feel such a difference of bungeeness (well this word doesn't exist, but whatever) if you were using another capture device. Shunt is probably one of the worst device concerning feeding (and also concerning your safety), so you need a strong bungee action, with micro you would probably not notice this. I say that, but I don't own any commercial bungee.
Hey, I considered mentioning this in the video, but I had the same issues(though not as bad) with my old system of double micros. It depends how much you're traversing in and out of the ropeline and how much you've weighted the rope. I know people don't like the shunt, but I switched from double micros because I prefer it.
@@headpointhandbook thank you for the input!
whipper was a jump scare!
I feel like the second whip more than the first!
That was not the second ascent.
Any more historical context, or just this oddly unhelpful comment from a random account with a blurry photo? I don't care about any of the particular glory of a second ascent, so I'll change it if need be, but your comment doesn't help at all lol.
recently stumbled upon your channel, but i love how candid and real your videos are. no weird youtubing vibes, just raw climbing in the gunks. keep crushing at your own pace!
Thank you! That's exactly the point, don't need any youtube weirdness. Faux excitement and all that.
This channel is a gee dang gem! Love the effort put into filming the grip positions on the holds.
Thank you! I think it makes watching the climbing less boring. As somebody who loves climbing, sometimes watching it is like watching paint dry haha
Great send! I love the inset shots of the placements and holds. Please never say "Day Flash" again.
I love the Gunks and you make great videos of the Gunks.
Thank you, I also love the gunks haha
Awesome job on the climb but no helmet ?! Love your channel, keep it up!
Hey! If you follow my channel you know that I never wear a helmet, no amount of helmet policing will likely ever change that. I hope you enjoy the videos anyway!
@@headpointhandbook alright well as someone who had a TBI and had seizures for 2 years as a result, I hope you never get a TBI. it's so preventable but you do you boo
@@LisaMicheleI’m sorry to hear that happened to you, but there’s absolutely nothing personal about me not wearing a helmet, and you choosing to. Ultimately, if you’d never gone climbing in the first place, nothing would have happened to you. It’s all a risk assessment, and this is the risk assessment that works for me.
Fantastic! Best channel on UA-cam!
Even better than MAGNUS?
@@headpointhandbook far and away hahaha
Sick send! Was a pleasure
Big compliment from the guy who's been putting away 12 after 12 lately! Snuck your Eraserhead send in at the end. Bone hard next?
Bonehard, suppers.. too many on the list
Great send. I love the family dynamic in your videos, the banter with your wife is endearing. Keep sending the videos.
Thanks! Rock climbing is cool but having a family is 1000x cooler.
Great video and send man, can’t wait for you to get out to the Lake with us sometime!
Soon. Too many sick lines out there you guys have been hyping up!
Strong work! I can't believe you guys climb in the sun this time of year. I avoid it even in the Winter! Beasts!!
Thank you, it's not often but sometimes the heat bakes off all the humidity, and once you get shade the rock feels sticky!
Recently found your channel and have been going through the backlog of videos. Just wanted to say that holy hell dude your videos are top notch. The breakdown of the climb, visuals of the placements and story telling is on point. Thanks for putting so much effort into these videos, they're fantastic. Also great job on the send! You have unbelievably strong head game and patience to wait until you know it's right to climb something on lead.
Thank you! I'm really happy to hear you appreciate it. I often feel like the filming is an afterthought to the climbing and my wife kinda cobbles it all together, so it really is nice to get such high praises from you. There's certain routes you don't have any option other than patience, and this is definitely one of those routes haha.
wake babe up new Headpointing in the Gunks video just droped
Babe, wake up NOW
Great reviews! I'll be looking into getting one for sure. Long time connoisseur of home grown TR solo bungee rigs and a number of other trad orientated DIY tricks of the trade.
Thanks! I have couple other niche reviews and niche uses of conventional products planned.
Great review and nice to see a fellow TRS climber. I was recently considering which one to buy. Using a soft stretch is personally inconvenient and a bit uncomfortable for me as well. Thanks for the info and updates!
Thanks again man. Used to TRS probably less than ten times a year until we had the baby. Now it's mostly how I climb!
Holy shit you trs with only a shunt 😳 you wild
Not too bad for me! A nice fat static, beefy quicklink, bungee, and general awareness keeps me safe.
I made my own with 1/8" shock cord with two knots on either end and a very small weak accessory biner. I had to premeasure where i wanted everything but it does the job well for less than $1. Avant one looks slick too. I think the breaking strength of 1/8" shock cord is 100lb and Hownot2 made a video breaking the Avant one. Seems ideal to just try and not hang yourself on the bungee either way.
I can't imagine a scenario where your device would slip about 4 feet as your bungee hooks on something, you turn away from the wall, and can't just slip your head out of the stretched bungee. I thought the hownot2 video was kinda silly, seems like a non-issue.
It would be awesome to see you go through your protection and explain what you look for when you're placing each one. There's a lot of little niche trad knowledge scattered everywhere; like some people will claim you have to be careful with horizontal placements with totems because of the damage they can have on the trigger wires. The small stuff that you've learned like that would be really cool. My bad if you've already done a video like that, love your channel, its inspired me to be more methodical and confident with my own climbing.
Hey dude, first I'm glad to hear the channel has impacted your climbing positively. Breathe, relax, concentrate. That's a great idea for a video, how to decide on sketchy placements and why I find something acceptable or not. Added to the list!
bro ditch the shunt!!!! also the quicklink!
Haha I know, I get trashed for it all the time. Funnily enough, I ditched my old "safer" method of two micros on ovals once I started TRS projecting harder. The shunt makes it so simple and easy to slide a few feet down the rope to work hard cruxes. With a fat 10.5 static, a quicklink, a bungee, and general awareness, the primary failure mode of the shunt is totally eliminated. Bar the device completely exploding, which in theory could happen on a regular gri-gri belay(either TR or lead) I feel totally confident and trusting in the system.
@@headpointhandbookhave a look at the taz lov!
Have you tried using a Vergo? It slides smoothly, it’s super bomber, and it’s got a lever to descend like a grigri
@@somanayr I haven't. I have this weird, and probably irrational distrust of Trango gear. I'll look into some videos on it!
@@headpointhandbook Great review. I do think use case matters like you said. My system -- an Ushba Basic and a Micro -- works great with the Avant. But then that's one of the lowest-friction combos available, lower than two micros IMO, and good luck finding a titanium Basic these days without paying way more for it used than I paid for it new 18 years ago. On it granite or ice I never have issues with the Avant stretchiness. If one is using any device that's higher friction -- like the shunt -- it sounds like the Kingsbury is the way to go.
Thanks so much for this! Absolutely love the niche, detailed, and honest reviews. One piece of video-making feedback: I was shocked at 5:45 that your main finding is so simple / straightforward, when you reported the main finding of the video -- "the Avant bungee does not function as well as the Kingsbury" (due to the Kingsbury's combination of static cord and bungee cord, which means that the stretch of the bungee kicks in over a more-precise range of distances-from-your-neck). Combined with your finding at 11:25, that the Super Kingsbury is your updated overall recommendation, this means that the main findings of the video could be summed up with a 1 minute intro in front of the moonboard. That being said, the rest of the video is excellent and useful! Still it might just be good to provide such an intro, both for the viewer not willing to watch the whole thing AND for the viewer like me who wants to watch the whole thing, but like to get a high-level overview to start things off :) Again, thanks for making this! Super useful both to determine my purchase, and to just see these things in action.
Hey man, thank you for your honest and useful feedback. I'll definitely adopt that idea in the future, a quick summary followed up with "watch the entire video if you're a gear nerd and want all the nitty-gritty details." I tend to nerd out in my videos about all the intricacies related to climbing and I know it can be too long-form for people in the age of tik tok. Def grab a bungee, way more comfortable than two webbing loops over the shoulders or whatever you're using now!
@@headpointhandbook Just ordered! Can't wait for more vids, thanks!
I was going to add that the OG Kingsbury with the 1.5 was originally designed to have the cord go directly into the capture device keeper hole (micro traction), and that we have since added the option for the 3 mm basket hitch style on all 3 of our bungees now ☠️☠️☠️. Thank you for the fair review!
Oh no I've been using it off-label all along! Haha thanks for the info and the great product.
This post couldn’t have had better timing. In the past, my partner and I have just always accepted the faff of not using a bungee whenever we top rope soloed at home in Joshua tree or fixed and followed on shorter multipitch climbing trips. Since graduating, we plan to be spending a lot more time working remotely and climbing bigger objectives via fix and follow, so we both figured it was about time to get a bungee to make things a bit easier and streamlined than say, building our own. I’m glad to hear some first hand comparison between the two that you’ve experienced, and your points have definitely swayed me to PK’s product, specifically the one with the adjust due to the fact we would be swapping one lanyard after fixing and trading leaders. Glad to have found this gem of a channel, great change of pace from that other reviewers / climbing breakdowns. Super objective and logic based. Very into it, keep it up and I’ll for sure be a long time viewer.
Thanks for your kindness, I love the rational, objective approach to climbing as a discipline and really try to convey that in the videos. I want everybody to realize how manageable hard and scary climbing can actually be, so I'm really happy to hear that you also appreciate that. Grabbing a bungee is totally worth it, way comfortable, and using one just makes you feel kinda cool lol
I wanna sesh the forge
The forge is always open coach.
Nice vid! My partner and I learned to climb at the gunks and funnily enough, if the access fund shirt that Brandon is wearing is the one with Seneca Rocks, she was the artist who designed it.
I'll ask him next time we climb and let you know. That'd be really cool.
Thanks for doing these video, they are great! To add a bit more context and history, before the app was released and the print guidebook the current information was either the Williams or Swain guidebooks both of which did not highlight or give many stars to the 12s in the Gunks especially of they were R even if they had outstanding rock. It seems that the previous mindset was that stars and protection ratings were somewhat linked especially at the upper end of the grade scale. Routes like Vanishing Point and Creature Features were relegated to no star or one star variants. In the early 2000's the 12s were rarely being led. A group including myself, Jamie Hamilton, Thea Blodgett Gallahan, Dustin Portzline, John Albright and others started repeating some of these forgotten classics and word got out that many of these were pretty safe leads that you could push yourself on. I found the direct line to Stirrup Trouble while TR soloing and teamed up with Joel Peterson to lead it. It was remarkable than a high quality, extremely well protected 12 sat unnoticed in the Uberfall. If you haven't been on it, the crux may seem impossible until you see the beta or uncover it for yourself, it's not obvious, so perhaps that played into its delayed discovery. So the way to share these kind of routes was by Word of Mouth, hence the name. My first thought was to make a 5.12 climbers guide to the Gunks, featuring good 10's and 11's to gain the requisite skills and then approachable 12s with safe falls to jump on. Instead I went ahead and just turned the app into a full documentation of the Gunks App which was originally released as a standalone guide as "The Trapps App" released in 2014 for $11.99. In a way this channel has become sort of a guide for the 12 climber with a focus on the R and X headpoints. Psyched to see all these routes and history being recorded!!
Thanks Christian, amazing extra little tidbit of info. Comment Pinned!
fuck yea sick vid dude!
Hell yea thanks!
Great vid
That was an awesome day out! More to come🤙
The gunks isn't ready.