Відео

Helmet?

Do you mind explaining why your 5.8 gunks falls were so bad and any lessons you learned from them?

Thanks for putting this together!

Can we all agree that not wearing a helmet is irrational, there really are no downsides.

Last fall clip gave me chills when I saw how the bolt on the cam caught you. 😬

Awesome video. Appreciate all the content you put out.

Great camera work (and climb)!

Great video! Thanks for sharing. Lots of good stuff to think about

love your videos bro. I learn so much from watching you. This channel is so underrated

And sorry for focus on Cilley Dicken as it seems like there's been a lot of chat about it (this is my first time seeing it), but the logic of anchoring Sabrina with a cam was to stop her from shooting upwards to prevent a groundie? Do you think there might have been a different result if she was free to move dynamically?

Love the fall analysis, hilarious yet insightful. You don’t think that if there’s a low crux with dodgy gear like on Bird Brain, it would be prudent for the belayer to basically brace for impact with the climber, given the higher likelihood of that happening? Maybe a football uniform would have been useful 😅

Lack of helmets on belayer is recipe for a disaster. Im not even that experienced but everytime I been outdoors there has been rockfall.

I never wear a Bicycle helmet. One little wrinkle dinkle. I would suggest to not tell potential subscribers that your channel is not for someone that wants to complain about not wearing a helmet. Let them complain in the comments, it is engagement. You don't have to respond. Unless it is really insulting, then delete it.

Super cool stuff as usual! Definitely helpful for me, a relatively new trad climber aspiring to tackle consequential terrains! Not trying to be those annoying judgmental helmet polices. In all the lead fall you analyzed helmet wouldn't do shit for the leaders (or even making the leader easier to fall, like James Pearson mentioned), but it seems useful for belayers. In the whipper you hit your wife, perhaps a helmet would have better protected her head from slamming into the wall. I'm just curious about your take on helmet for leaders and belayers. No judgement implied :)

The not realizing you broke your ankle is wild. I'm currently walking around on a visibly bad ankle injury, and it's got me thinking 🤔

With the weather finally feeling more like fall I've been getting antsy to get back to work on bonehard. Definitely going to reevaluate that gear. And clip that old piton mid crux.

Wait, you fall?

Actually, "take your friend's pants when they offer them to you" is a lesson that I have put to use quite often, but never when climbing.

Kinda wild people were mad at you for that person swinging in on you on bird brain. It was lucky she missed you, but it seemed like not really anyone's fault. I'm sure it was a lesson for her as well!

Dude did you do this in July ??

hello, my comment disapear so I rewrite it in a shorter style: you would probably not feel such a difference of bungeeness (well this word doesn't exist, but whatever) if you were using another capture device. Shunt is probably one of the worst device concerning feeding (and also concerning your safety), so you need a strong bungee action, with micro you would probably not notice this. I say that, but I don't own any commercial bungee.

whipper was a jump scare!

That was not the second ascent.

recently stumbled upon your channel, but i love how candid and real your videos are. no weird youtubing vibes, just raw climbing in the gunks. keep crushing at your own pace!

This channel is a gee dang gem! Love the effort put into filming the grip positions on the holds.

Great send! I love the inset shots of the placements and holds. Please never say "Day Flash" again.

I love the Gunks and you make great videos of the Gunks.

Awesome job on the climb but no helmet ?! Love your channel, keep it up!

Fantastic! Best channel on UA-cam!

Sick send! Was a pleasure

Great send. I love the family dynamic in your videos, the banter with your wife is endearing. Keep sending the videos.

Great video and send man, can’t wait for you to get out to the Lake with us sometime!

Strong work! I can't believe you guys climb in the sun this time of year. I avoid it even in the Winter! Beasts!!

Recently found your channel and have been going through the backlog of videos. Just wanted to say that holy hell dude your videos are top notch. The breakdown of the climb, visuals of the placements and story telling is on point. Thanks for putting so much effort into these videos, they're fantastic. Also great job on the send! You have unbelievably strong head game and patience to wait until you know it's right to climb something on lead.

wake babe up new Headpointing in the Gunks video just droped

Great reviews! I'll be looking into getting one for sure. Long time connoisseur of home grown TR solo bungee rigs and a number of other trad orientated DIY tricks of the trade.

Great review and nice to see a fellow TRS climber. I was recently considering which one to buy. Using a soft stretch is personally inconvenient and a bit uncomfortable for me as well. Thanks for the info and updates!

Holy shit you trs with only a shunt 😳 you wild

I made my own with 1/8" shock cord with two knots on either end and a very small weak accessory biner. I had to premeasure where i wanted everything but it does the job well for less than $1. Avant one looks slick too. I think the breaking strength of 1/8" shock cord is 100lb and Hownot2 made a video breaking the Avant one. Seems ideal to just try and not hang yourself on the bungee either way.

It would be awesome to see you go through your protection and explain what you look for when you're placing each one. There's a lot of little niche trad knowledge scattered everywhere; like some people will claim you have to be careful with horizontal placements with totems because of the damage they can have on the trigger wires. The small stuff that you've learned like that would be really cool. My bad if you've already done a video like that, love your channel, its inspired me to be more methodical and confident with my own climbing.

bro ditch the shunt!!!! also the quicklink!

Thanks so much for this! Absolutely love the niche, detailed, and honest reviews. One piece of video-making feedback: I was shocked at 5:45 that your main finding is so simple / straightforward, when you reported the main finding of the video -- "the Avant bungee does not function as well as the Kingsbury" (due to the Kingsbury's combination of static cord and bungee cord, which means that the stretch of the bungee kicks in over a more-precise range of distances-from-your-neck). Combined with your finding at 11:25, that the Super Kingsbury is your updated overall recommendation, this means that the main findings of the video could be summed up with a 1 minute intro in front of the moonboard. That being said, the rest of the video is excellent and useful! Still it might just be good to provide such an intro, both for the viewer not willing to watch the whole thing AND for the viewer like me who wants to watch the whole thing, but like to get a high-level overview to start things off :) Again, thanks for making this! Super useful both to determine my purchase, and to just see these things in action.

I was going to add that the OG Kingsbury with the 1.5 was originally designed to have the cord go directly into the capture device keeper hole (micro traction), and that we have since added the option for the 3 mm basket hitch style on all 3 of our bungees now ☠️☠️☠️. Thank you for the fair review!

This post couldn’t have had better timing. In the past, my partner and I have just always accepted the faff of not using a bungee whenever we top rope soloed at home in Joshua tree or fixed and followed on shorter multipitch climbing trips. Since graduating, we plan to be spending a lot more time working remotely and climbing bigger objectives via fix and follow, so we both figured it was about time to get a bungee to make things a bit easier and streamlined than say, building our own. I’m glad to hear some first hand comparison between the two that you’ve experienced, and your points have definitely swayed me to PK’s product, specifically the one with the adjust due to the fact we would be swapping one lanyard after fixing and trading leaders. Glad to have found this gem of a channel, great change of pace from that other reviewers / climbing breakdowns. Super objective and logic based. Very into it, keep it up and I’ll for sure be a long time viewer.

I wanna sesh the forge

Nice vid! My partner and I learned to climb at the gunks and funnily enough, if the access fund shirt that Brandon is wearing is the one with Seneca Rocks, she was the artist who designed it.

Thanks for doing these video, they are great! To add a bit more context and history, before the app was released and the print guidebook the current information was either the Williams or Swain guidebooks both of which did not highlight or give many stars to the 12s in the Gunks especially of they were R even if they had outstanding rock. It seems that the previous mindset was that stars and protection ratings were somewhat linked especially at the upper end of the grade scale. Routes like Vanishing Point and Creature Features were relegated to no star or one star variants. In the early 2000's the 12s were rarely being led. A group including myself, Jamie Hamilton, Thea Blodgett Gallahan, Dustin Portzline, John Albright and others started repeating some of these forgotten classics and word got out that many of these were pretty safe leads that you could push yourself on. I found the direct line to Stirrup Trouble while TR soloing and teamed up with Joel Peterson to lead it. It was remarkable than a high quality, extremely well protected 12 sat unnoticed in the Uberfall. If you haven't been on it, the crux may seem impossible until you see the beta or uncover it for yourself, it's not obvious, so perhaps that played into its delayed discovery. So the way to share these kind of routes was by Word of Mouth, hence the name. My first thought was to make a 5.12 climbers guide to the Gunks, featuring good 10's and 11's to gain the requisite skills and then approachable 12s with safe falls to jump on. Instead I went ahead and just turned the app into a full documentation of the Gunks App which was originally released as a standalone guide as "The Trapps App" released in 2014 for $11.99. In a way this channel has become sort of a guide for the 12 climber with a focus on the R and X headpoints. Psyched to see all these routes and history being recorded!!

fuck yea sick vid dude!

Great vid

That was an awesome day out! More to come🤙