Shut Up and Eat Your Greens 5.12b R | Headpointing in The Gunks
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- Today we get out to a really awesome and underrated route in Sleepy Hollow, Shut Up and Eat Your Greens. And Sabrina gets a clean TR burn on my longest running proj, Circumcisor.
Great send. I really like your channel. All beta, no fluff. You made me smile when you "didn't use your knee." I began my climbing in 1980, and in my group if you dabbed a knee people would pack their gear and go home!
Hahaha we call this "style over safety" There's certain unwritten rules that shouldn't be violated, and I did not violate any of those rules.
Knees and trees if no one sees. Haha. Truly inspirational!
Amazing hahaha, I'll keep this in mind next time my knee finds it's way into the rock, and maybe wholly deny that it ever touched at all!
What do you guys typically prefer as your belay device?
I generally did not have preference (ATC or GriGri), rather (as a leader) I preferred my belayer to use what they're most confident in... Then I took a severe ground fall, (was injured, lucky to have not died nor be severely/permanently injured) on an ATC, however, the belayer wasn't very competent...
Ever since then I've been insisting pretty much anyone who belays me use a GriGri.... problem is a lot of exp trad leaders whom I climb with, rather use their ATC.
It's created some contention. I am having a hard time mentally separating the fact that it was my belayer not the device and I should trust my trusted partners and allow them to use an ATC with me.
On the flip, I'm just not over the fall and feel like the GriGri just provides that extra security no matter if the belayer is beginner, advanced, experienced, etc. It helps me when I'm cruxing out to just keep climbing, when in the same situation on an ATC I choose to submit, look down, ask for a take.
Would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
Hey, personally, I use a grigri all the time. It's certainly safer(and honestly way easier to use) than an ATC. I don't really have any climbing friends who still belay with an ATC. Normally though, I wouldn't care, but for a dangerous headpoint, I would always insist on a trusted belayer and a grigri, and even then I always have a little game-plan pep-talk where I review the route and the more dangerous parts with my belayer before I lead.
Climbing is really a risk assessment, so you kinda have to decide what you're comfortable with and work within that sphere. I will say, you should get back on the horse and take some practice falls outside before you psyche yourself out too much about the fall.
Keep rippin' 'em!
Love the Gunks and if it ever stops raining, I'll be back soon. Scary stuff. I love Sleepy Hollow, too.
Get after it ⚒️🤘🏻
Great video, super excited to have found this channel. Love the format of showing the recon process and then the send. As a gumby Devils Lake climber, its also sick to see classic headpointing style getting some love online
Hey man, Devils Lake Gumby sounds like sketchy experienced rock climber to me. Glad you’re psyched on the videos, we have a lot more to come!
Roof sequence on greens was so sick, the high camera angle was fantastic. Would also love a beta breakdown on some more of Sabrina's (3-burn) projects
Thanks! It was a wild roof for sure. Will definitely take that into consideration, thanks for all the support 🥹
I like the video y’all. Eric obviously, did not, in any way, at all, no matter what, use his knee over the roof there. Awesome send, no even having to use any knees.
Sabrina also proving to be a great narrator of climbs just like Eric.
Thank you! And nope no knees used here ever 🫣
Another great video! Too bad the camera died. Laughed out loud at, "Definitely not using my knee!"
The old man beta is no knees ever!
@@headpointhandbook Me? I'll shamelessly use any part of my body!
Cool video!
Thanks dude, yeehaw!