Відео

No, it's mahogany. 🤙

What would you tell someone if they were learning to sharpen a knife?

You bet! Thanks for watching! 🤙

Yeah, G10 is some terrible stuff to breathe. It's made from layers of fiberglass cloth and epoxy. I've never heard that you can only wet sand it, but you most definitely want to be wearing a respirator and have good HVAC in your shop when working with it. Keep in mind that dust particles will remain suspended in air for several hours too, so you can't remove your respirator as soon as you're done sanding. I've got air handlers rated for about 3-4 times the air volume of my shop that I run continuously when I'm out there. Thanks for watching! 🤙

Back when I used the forge for heat treating knives I added the steel U-channel to distribute the heat in the forge more evenly, I added a thermocouple through the bottom of the forge to measure temperature, and I manually cycled the propane on and off over a ~20F range to maintain the forge temperature.

I appreciate that! Thanks for watching! 🤙

Hey, thanks a lot! I'm glad you enjoyed the video! 🤙

Thank you! 🤙

Thank you, I really appreciate that. I totally know what you mean about simple elegance in knife design. Often times trying to do too much detracts from the overall function and beauty of the knife. Doing the simple things well usually leads to a beautiful, high performance knife. Thanks for watching! 🤙

Hey, thanks for watching! It's the Personalizer Plus. There's a link on my website www.davidmoonforge.com under the product links tab.

I think the only thing I might understand would be to remove the highest temperature normalization cycle at 1650F. Theoretically you should still get fully dissolved carbides at 1500F, and the 1400F cycle would get you the grain reduction. I'd be curious to compare some microscopic images of both normalization techniques after heat treat.

😂 thanks dude! 🤙

Hey, thanks a lot! I'll have a new video up soon! 😁

Yes, the diamond paste gives you a more polished edge. If you like more of a toothy edge on pocket or field knives you can definitely just run a few passes on a bare leather strop and get great results. You can load your strop with white or green rouge if you're looking for something in the middle of diamond paste and no compound at all, plus it's much cheaper than diamond paste.

Thank you! I appreciate it! 🤙

Yup! I do that sometimes. I've always wondered if continuous thermal cycling of the epoxy affects the performance in any way. I've never run into any issues from doing that, just curious though.

Thanks!

Thanks dude! 🤙

Thanks buddy! 🤙

8000 is ok but kinda a waste of time but it depends what ur cutting

I typically sharpen to a 3000 grit stone, and then strop with 5 micron and 3 micron diamond paste. I just wanted to test the edge and make sure the heat treat was good before putting a handle on it. Once it's finished I'll take it up to a 3000 grit stone.

All depends on the knife. He said it was 3/8th's of an inch thick so its a chopper and a fine edge like 8k would be pointless.

You can use a q-tip to apply some acid, and it will reveal the layers in your steel. You won't get the same depth of etch though. The duration of the etch, and the concentration of the acid will determine how deep the acid etches into your simple carbon steel. The short answer is, applying acid with a Q-tip will probably make it look better than it does, but the real solution would be to remove the handle, sand and finish the blade, etch the whole blade again, and put a new handle on it. Depending on the handle material, you may be able to sort of get away with taping off the scales and etching the whole blade, but I wouldn't recommend that. You have no idea if un neutralized acid gets stuck between your scales and the tang.

@@DavidMoonForge Very true. Then I’d be careful to use a hair thin brush and just brush a very small amount. How long do you leave Damascus etch on? Thank you for answering my previous question.

I think 80CrV2 is a great steel choice for a chef knife. It's extremely durable, and offers pretty good edge retention, with a relatively simple heat treatment. I'm curious to know why you wouldn't use 80CrV2 for a kitchen knife?

@@DavidMoonForge i prefer to use 135cr3 because it's more harder than 80crv2 ,but that's catch my attention. I will test 80crv2 soon for this kind of knife. Thanks for the answer.

@@Pripyat1986. I've never personally used 135Cr3, really just because of availability in the US. I've heard great things about that steel though. It's got a really high carbon content, so you can achieve a very hard blade out of the quench. Some people would prefer the added hardness and thus better edge retention, but generally harder blades are more difficult to sharpen. Depending on whether the knife is going to a home chef or a professional kitchen could make the difference in steel choice. I'd be curious to hear your thoughts if you compare the two steels on a chef knife.

Bummer dude. That sucks!

Thanks dude! 🤙

I do plan on making these with scales as well.

I agree that a Rockwell hardness tester is a much more accurate way to test the hardness of a blade. As you mentioned, they're far more expensive than this ~$50 set of hardness files. I've been in the market for one for awhile, and plan to get one soon. As far as the results from this knife, when you run a file across a surface that's been finished to 400-grit or so you're going to see surface scratches from almost all of the files. You can feel and hear how the file digs into the steel or not. That being said, the 60 Rc file scratched the surface, but felt like it skated. That's why I estimated the hardness of the blade around 60 Rc. I would expect a 60 Rc file to scratch the surface of another 60 Rc object, but probably not really be able to remove material. I think you brought up some good points, and that it would make for a good video comparing a true Rockwell hardness tester to these files and how they react to steels of different hardness. Thanks for watching, and commenting. 🤙

​@@DavidMoonForgeThanks for the clarity..I didn't think about the 400 grit finish..when shopping for a used HR-150a tester the little silver case has all the pricey accessories..often this is missing..stay far away from those..I was able to get a new but slightly damaged paint only unit for 1/2 cost..there's shipping / transport blocks inside that must be removed for it to function correctly..most damaged shipment dealer are clueless and sell cheap thinking the tester is damaged internally etc..the accessories alone are $400+ to replace..skip the tester without accessories..Cheers

@@agentcovert thanks for the advice!

That's what I'm talking about

🤙

Thanks!

Thanks buddy! 🤙 Glad to see you're still around! 😁 This is one of the models I'm going to start making regularly in addition to custom orders.

Based on the heat treat, I'd say those were 1084.

No way, that's wild! 😂 I went to Blade Show Atlanta this year, but I didn't have a table. Do you have a website or socials I can check out?

I think the only downside to using water is that it can cause your diamond stone to rust. You'd probably need to blow it dry with an air compressor after each use.

​@@DavidMoonForgeI usually use water. When I'm done I rinse the stone well with running water, towel it off, then set it in the sun or even just the hairdryer to get it good and dry before putting it away. Started doing that after one did rust on me.

@@TTT69304 yeah, that would work. Whatever you can do to get it thoroughly dried quickly.

No, sharpening a recurve blade (I assume that's what you mean by a curved blade) is quite different. All of the same sharpening principles apply, but you'll want to use a round or oval shaped sharpening rod instead of a flat stone.

Thanks! 🤙

Thank you! Your epoxy is 🔥. 🤙

I can't promise it won't destroy your bank account! 😛 It's a Coal Iron Works 12-ton press. It's pretty awesome. I'm totally happy with it. I'd love to upgrade to a digital press controller so I don't need to mess around with all the different size kiss blocks.

Thank you! 🙏

What kind of knife do you want to see?

@@DavidMoonForge like a custom knife 🔪 or a bowie

@@guillermoalfaro2714 thanks for the feedback. I've got orders for a tanto EDC and a custom EDC for a firefighter. I'll work those videos into the mix. Thanks for watching. 🤙

@@guillermoalfaro2714 no Bowie orders in the queue right now. Lol, lots of chef knives. I'll see if I can make one just for fun one of these days.

Thanks! 🤙

Right on, I'm actually working on a batch of these right now. I should have them up on the website in a week or two.

What is the medium being used. Looks like gravel. Love the look.

@@fredwarner6980 yup, it's just garden gravel from the hardware store. I've tried some of the other polishing media, and I like gravel the best.

I use a ton of ironwood. IMO it's one of the best natural materials for a knife handle. It's naturally pretty water resistant, it doesn't swell or crack over time, and you can get some really beautiful grain variations. That being said, it's very dense and hard so it burns through saw blades. It's also naturally kind of oily, so it gums up sanding belts quickly and you can end up burning the wood. I cut it with a band saw, and I do all of the rough shaping with a 36 grit ceramic belt. I wouldn't try to go above 120 grit on a machine.

Lol, thanks. I think so too! 😛

🤙

That was 3 coats.

Thank you! 😛 The handle scales are desert ironwood.

I forge in a slight taper from the spine to the edge, then I'll do a convex grind with a slack belt to apex the edge. The convex grind with the belt will only be on the bottom inch or so of the blade. I'll sharpen it at around 30 degrees. I basically treat this more like an axe or hatchet.

@@DavidMoonForge perfect, that’s what I wanted to know. Thank you so much

@@Niksow you bet, thanks for watching! 🤙

Yeah, you're probably right.

The press is a 12-ton press from Coal Iron Works. I'm not sure which other machines you're referring to. I built my 2x72 grinder. The forge is a heavily modified Hell's Forge double burner. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 🤙

I do 3 cycles in ferric chloride at 5 minutes each. After each cycle in the ferric, I sand with increasingly higher grit paper; 1000, 1500, 2000. That mostly just sands the highs and leaves the valleys relatively untouched. Next I etch in coffee for 2 hours. I pull out the blade, submerge it in baking soda water to neutralize the acid in the coffee, then rinse it with water. I blow it dry with the air compressor, and then let it sit overnight. After the oxides have set overnight I polish it with a sunshine cloth to get the final result.