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Varanis Ridari
Приєднався 17 бер 2008
A.K.A. The Scented Devil. General fragrance chatter, and home of The Un-List.
Un-List 195: Flagship Fragrances
Bit of a deep dive into flagship scents and how they came about, plus what they are generally considered.
Also, if you like this video:
Consider joining www.basenotes.com
to see my latest written reviews first, and be a part of the oldest, friendliest, most knowledgeable perfume community online!
If you already enjoy Basenotes, consider pledging to their Patreon at:
www.patreon.com/Basenotes
starting at only $3 to unlock exclusive perks.
Also, if you like this video:
Consider joining www.basenotes.com
to see my latest written reviews first, and be a part of the oldest, friendliest, most knowledgeable perfume community online!
If you already enjoy Basenotes, consider pledging to their Patreon at:
www.patreon.com/Basenotes
starting at only $3 to unlock exclusive perks.
Переглядів: 294
Відео
Episode 194: Second Chance Fragrances
Переглядів 32614 годин тому
Stuff that we passed by or let go, but gave another chance and ended up liking. Also, if you like this video: Consider joining www.basenotes.com to see my latest written reviews first, and be a part of the oldest, friendliest, most knowledgeable perfume community online! If you already enjoy Basenotes, consider pledging to their Patreon at: www.patreon.com/Basenotes starting at only $3 to unloc...
Un-List 193: Essential Parfums
Переглядів 411День тому
An essential video... Also, if you like this video: Consider joining www.basenotes.com to see my latest written reviews first, and be a part of the oldest, friendliest, most knowledgeable perfume community online! If you already enjoy Basenotes, consider pledging to their Patreon at: www.patreon.com/Basenotes starting at only $3 to unlock exclusive perks.
Un-List 192: Battle of the L'Hommes
Переглядів 354День тому
I really hit a L'Homme run with this topic. Also, if you like this video: Consider joining www.basenotes.com to see my latest written reviews first, and be a part of the oldest, friendliest, most knowledgeable perfume community online! If you already enjoy Basenotes, consider pledging to their Patreon at: www.patreon.com/Basenotes starting at only $3 to unlock exclusive perks.
Un-List 191: Winter Roundup 2024
Переглядів 33014 днів тому
What I did this year, right and wrong, and what may be next. Also, if you like this video: Consider joining www.basenotes.com to see my latest written reviews first, and be a part of the oldest, friendliest, most knowledgeable perfume community online! If you already enjoy Basenotes, consider pledging to their Patreon at: www.patreon.com/Basenotes starting at only $3 to unlock exclusive perks.
Un-List 190: The Mystery of Balenciaga Ho Hang and Ho Hang Club (1971/1987)
Переглядів 28114 днів тому
Let's talk about two of the most beloved discontinued Balenciagas, the story behind their marketing, composition, the name, and their confusing dopplegangers; Balenciaga Club (Ho Hang) and Le Club de Balenciaga (Ho Hang Club) Also, if you like this video: Consider joining www.basenotes.com to see my latest written reviews first, and be a part of the oldest, friendliest, most knowledgeable perfu...
Un-List 189: Paco Rabanne pour Homme (1973)
Переглядів 36921 день тому
The curious case of how a German-made aftershave and bar soap with an Irish theme lead to a revolution in men's fougère fragrances. Also, if you like this video: Consider joining www.basenotes.com to see my latest written reviews first, and be a part of the oldest, friendliest, most knowledgeable perfume community online! If you already enjoy Basenotes, consider pledging to their Patreon at: ww...
Un-List 188: Weird Perfume
Переглядів 36921 день тому
Let's make it weird! Also, if you like this video: Consider joining www.basenotes.com to see my latest written reviews first, and be a part of the oldest, friendliest, most knowledgeable perfume community online! If you already enjoy Basenotes, consider pledging to their Patreon at: www.patreon.com/Basenotes starting at only $3 to unlock exclusive perks.
Un-List 187: Emeraude (1921) vs Shalimar (1925)
Переглядів 270Місяць тому
Un-List 187: Emeraude (1921) vs Shalimar (1925)
Un-List 180: My Favorite Citrus Aromatic Chypres 2024
Переглядів 465Місяць тому
Un-List 180: My Favorite Citrus Aromatic Chypres 2024
Un-List 179: Designer Perfume is (Sorta) Dying
Переглядів 472Місяць тому
Un-List 179: Designer Perfume is (Sorta) Dying
Un-List 178: The Consequences of Sauvage
Переглядів 4082 місяці тому
Un-List 178: The Consequences of Sauvage
Un-List 177: Terre d'Hermès (2006) Full Line Review
Переглядів 3952 місяці тому
Un-List 177: Terre d'Hermès (2006) Full Line Review
Un-List 176: Montblanc Legend (2011) and Flankers
Переглядів 2562 місяці тому
Un-List 176: Montblanc Legend (2011) and Flankers
Un-List 175: Green Irish Tweed vs Cool Water Showdown
Переглядів 4122 місяці тому
Un-List 175: Green Irish Tweed vs Cool Water Showdown
Un-List 172: Coffee Talk + Trailing Arbutus
Переглядів 2922 місяці тому
Un-List 172: Coffee Talk Trailing Arbutus
Un-List 171: Calvin Klein cK One (1994)
Переглядів 2513 місяці тому
Un-List 171: Calvin Klein cK One (1994)
Un-List 169: What I've Reached For in 2024
Переглядів 4553 місяці тому
Un-List 169: What I've Reached For in 2024
Un-List 168: End of an Era - A Personal Update
Переглядів 6123 місяці тому
Un-List 168: End of an Era - A Personal Update
Un-List 167: Sybaris by Antonio Puig (1988)
Переглядів 2434 місяці тому
Un-List 167: Sybaris by Antonio Puig (1988)
Un-List 166: Ténéré by Paco Rabanne (1988)
Переглядів 1884 місяці тому
Un-List 166: Ténéré by Paco Rabanne (1988)
I’m guessing Aramis would be considered a Flagship fragrance right? I’m late to the party as I meant to ask you this 2 days ago lol.
I'd say so. It launched it's own line.
I own Fig Infusion, and I think is lovely
It's very good!!
Just listened to their podcast where Geraldine Archambault, the founder of the brand, talks with one of their perfumers (it's only in french). Actually Bois Impérial was my first "niche" fragrance 2 years ago. Like many I liked it much at first sampling it, now, that my "nose" has evolved a bit, I'm struggling with its nuclear performance and diffusion (did they really had to do an extrait?😂). As an patchouli afficionado I recently sampled Patchouli Mania and liked the nutty opening, but a wierd synthetic note in the very dry down turned me off.
The extrait is thankfully different than the EdP
Just picked one up. Thanks for the heads up on BN.
I'm so glad you got one. It's epic.
Before this , Avon Rugger is my everyday catcher .
Rugger came out a year after this, but I love Rugger too, very much!
It's not can waa smh
That's how it was pronounced in the old French TV commercials, but honestly I don't really care how you say it, so long as you enjoy the scent. 🤣
Wow, thank you for making this video. I’m truly grateful for the attention you put into it. ☺️
Thanks! Hope it was helpful!
It almost smells like a black tea to me. Its definitely a hidden gem!
If you like this, try Caron Le 3ème Homme/Third Man/No. 3
@Varanis_Ridari For Caron third man, I've tried the vintage, in the green bottle, I didn't like it. It reminded me of like a weird cartiers roadster. I've also tried the newer version of it, that I did like more, but still not a lot, it reminded me of cappuci pour homme but not as good. For some reason this scent reminds me of chergui the newer formulation. I know you have a vast knowledge of vintage as well. Have you heard of anucci pour homme? A lot of people haven't, it's another hidden Gem. It smells like the inspiration for malles Carnal flower, but more natural, it's amazing.
I've heard of Anucci pour Homme, but never smelled
3 seconds😊 review it's the clone overpriced 1:1 of Eau de Givree
To be honest, it's closer to the discontinued Eau Trés Fresh if were comparing to Hermès.
Got the vintage, it smells like Serge DNA . Great juice.
I have the vintage too. The newer bottles are like cutting the base back and the top notes increased. Feels rebalanced instead of reformulated. I prefer the heavier, more ambery treatment.
I strongly suspected you would mention Star Trek.
Lmao
Cheers D, great info , yeah the days of perfume houses having to hold men by the hand and reassuringly walk them into the world of a predominantly women’s accessory item is long gone, but Big kudos to the way it was implemented, not de-masculinization but actually reinforcing men’s sense of , you see me as a man , now smell me as a man kinda deal lol 😆, great vid have a great weekend sir 💪👊🤛
Smelling me as a man takes on a whole new meaning depending on what club you go to.
I was looking for an old bottle of le de to buy my mom for christmas today and ended up seeing/buying a black cap bottle of gentleman for 30 bucks. Has oakmoss listed in ingredients on the box but of course that means its not even an early 2000s or 90s bottle. i mean i dont really crave civet or rose and ect, so i im hoping this gives me the patchouli at least. Sadly i have never smelled gentleman before unless it was in the wild and didnt know any better, so this will be the first wearing in my life. Kinda excited honestly though.
Got a few other random things super cheap today...aura by jacomo and an original bijan for men with the word "cologne" on the back of bottle lol
Aura is great, and don't stress the Givenchy Gentleman. I have that bottle and it's a good patch. Better than Giorgio.
Sorry to disrupt, but I was reading your review on Spicebomb Extreme on Basenotes and you said "FragComm" buy perfumes to get laid or impress a rival in the workplace; it's no secret nor shame...The original Spicebomb, for all its shock an awe, was ill-suited and not congenial enough, so now we get Spicebomb Extreme...Once things like Dolce & Gabbana The One for Men (2008) and Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de L'Homme (2009) became the gold standard among the general male populace for date night, I took my check and left the restaurant". Can you make a top 10 list of others fragrances that be use for these purposes?
That quote was taken out of context and fundamentally changed by omitting the first part of it, where I said many guys outside the "FragComm" do as follows., not the "FragComm" itself.
@Varanis_Ridari oops, sorry about that. I was trying to paraphrase
@@Varanis_Ridari So you're implying you took the check and left the restaurant without paying? Just kidding
Sir, this is a Wendy's.
Is the current version any good?
Oh yeah. Definitely recognizeable as Paco Rabanne, just maybe not as deep or musky. Definitely sharper and soapier. I have close to 1st bottle, and close to most recent. Both are good in slightly different ways. Can't go wrong with any Paco Rabanne pour Homme.
Thanks. I'm just gonna go with the current bottle.
That's what I did, then went backwards to sample older
Lol I hear ya big time on second chances, I don’t know why but yes I don’t get rid of my fragrances for this very reason as I rediscover bottles I put to the back burner on first sniff fails ,but way down the line I spritz one and damn it baffles me why I dismissed it , don’t know exactly why this is but it’s a real thing lol 😝. Cheers D, great subject to cover 💪👊🤛
Back-back-back burners for me
Incidentally, I'm kinda glad I gave Legend Spirit a second chance. Originally hated it, but it seemed to go down well with my social crowd so why not. 😄 Now it's more sweet lavender than it is Invictus to my nose. Still haven't given Polo Sport a second chance though. 😆 Maybe one day.
I can see the sweet lavender for sure
I get the biggest kick out of your videos. Graduated HS in 1980. Did not have a lot of money for fragrances. Would try fragrances by opening the sample inserts in GQ and Esquire magazines and rubbing the scent strips on my wrists. Fragrance counters at department stores were very intimidating. When I was in HS I used to steal sprays from my older brother’s Old Spice, Canoe and Polo Green. My Dad was an Aramis man and my Mother was a Youth Dew devotee. When I started getting a few bucks I liked Chanel for Men, Armani for Men, Paul Sebastian (powder bomb…made me physically ill), Dior Eau Savage, Pierre Cardin, and Stetson (gift). I have been revisiting some of these. I am sure they are not what they once were…..but I am not the man, now in my sixties, I once was.
Is it bad I own everything you mentioned, including the Youth Dew? 😅
Had a few second chances by your definition past couple of years- Third Man, Boucheron Pour Homme, Vetiver Extraordinaire, Knize Ten. I had them, sold them, and they got in my head somehow and so bought them again. No regrets about re buy.
Crazy how that happens. Vetiver Extraordinaire is an expensive do-over.
@@Varanis_Ridari Actually "do-over" on VE might be misclassified...My first bottle ran out (didn't bail out on it really) But I went three years before replacing it. I know it's one your "favorites."
D'OH... forgot my best "second chance" frag- Rebought L'Instant de Guerlain last year A fantastic, underrated scent.
I should resample it, but Malle has mostly left US counters aside from Bergdorf in NYC and Neimans in Texas. What Nordstrom has is only the newest.
@@Varanis_Ridari I dunno. It is stupidly priced but I allow myself one or two dumb purchases per year. There is really and truly no shortage of good vetivers, but this one got in my head somehow. Maybe I just bought cuz there's a really cute SA in the very cool Malle boutique in LA.
Passion, Aqua Quorum and Nautica Classic were once in my collection and I gave them away only to find out years later I really liked them and got new bottles. Funny how that works. BTW, I love Navy for Men!
So there are now two fans of Navy for Men in the world.
Love Essential Parfums, but my suspicion is that some scents like Bois Impérial and Divine Vanille - for example - were a version of a fragrance that wasn't selected. Bois Impérial to Ganymede (both by Bisch). Divine Vanille to Herod (both by Pescheux). That's not to discredit the value proposition of the brand, or the focus on using naturals - which is commendable.
They very well could be mods that were reworked into different fragrances. Very famous cases of that include the bulk of Creed's output when Pierre Bourdon was a ghost perfumer, although little to no reworking done in that particular case. Also we've seen rejected ideas become fragrances for other brands. A rejected Bel Ami by Bourdon was the start of the GIT/CW pipeline; a rejected Poison by Dior became Alain Delon Iquitos; a rejected idea for Acqua di Giò pour Homme became Antonio Banderas Blue Seduction. I've also seen fragrances hop the gender fence from male to female, or female to male. Caron Tabac Blonde was initially meant to be the first marketed men's fragrance by Caron. Both Old Spice and Canoe were initially conceived for women, and Dunhill Cologne from 1934 was considered unisex until men liked it more and it became Dunhill for Men. Ho Hang by Balenciaga had a similar situation, just in a much shorter period of time. Balenciaga Portos was also an unused idea for Marbert Man, as Marbert owned Balenciaga at the time. Then you have the "Halston Twins" of Z-14 and 1-12. Only one was supposed to be chosen, and Roy Halston Frowick famously declared to release them both, meaning they had to scramble packaging original meant for one release to fit two. My point being none of this chicanery should surprise anyone, but also I wouldn't necessarily see any of this repurposing as an intent to steal sales from an established release. Ganymede for instance, hadn't even been out a year, so it's success wasn't yet known.
Versace L’Homme is a classic - current formulation is still great for the £20 or €20 it’s easily available for, vintage is even better and in my top 5 colognes of all time. Bought YSL L’Homme blind in the summer and tested on my wrist and didn’t care for it. Need to try it again.
It's not the most exciting thing, YSL L'Homme, but I like it
Chanel also was a Nazi sympathizer and informant.
Géraldine Archambault / Founder Essential Parfums Nice interview where she shares her background ua-cam.com/video/7aNv9jlnN3Q/v-deo.htmlsi=AQN7xZG4LyEhcP3A
Thanks a ton!
@ Yw! Never smelled anything from this House before - thinking about picking up their 10 piece sampler set.
Do it! Nothing fancy here, just simple, well-made niche style. Definitely very 2005 vibes for me. No big trendy sugar bombs, no synth ouds, no BRventuslayton clones, and good prices.
How about mature, soapy, put-together, boss unlist? Build the Prada observation into a video theme. I'd enjoy that.
I absolutely could do that, and include some under-appreciated gems from that category.
Like the house profile! Thx
You're welcome!
I only have Bois Imperial and I like it. I'm curious about patchouli mania and mon vetiver. Gonna sample them and see.
Haven't smelled Patchouli Mania myself, but Mon Vetiver is definitely a good one
EP- insane value for the quality of jucie they put out! Everybody hating Quentin for his liberal akigalawood use but few praise his creativity.
I admit it can be overdone, but it's nice here.
Hi thanks for the video. What's the performance of this cologne? How long does the scent last?
It's middle of the road performance, but for the price of $60USD, that's not a big deal. If you layer with the lotion and other products, it'll last all day.
@@Varanis_Ridari ok great, thank you for your reply
You're welcome!
Cheers Derek, seen this and their pricing plus The perfumers involved , couldn’t get my head around how this could be true ?? ,so now through your video I finally get it , really good concept and really appreciate your help and explanation on this house 💪👊🤛
It's a nice house, just nothing mind blowing
Great work as always. They sound interesting. Might check out their discovery set, or their soaps.
I want to try the soaps myself
As always very interesting description and arguments, here you always learn something interesting about the world of perfumery with that touch of black humor that I like so much.
I appreciate it!
I think is great that you were reassigned to a place near home, believe me I know what it is to have a commuting time of an hour or more so 10 minutes sounds fantastic.
It's made creating content a bit more difficult however, but I manage.
Essential Parfums... different? are you sure? if we are talking about the same house? to me they are basically cloning , yes their fragrances are good, yes they are affordable but creative wise sorry but I don't think so, to me they are in the same ballpark than Spirit of Kings cloning niche fragrances with a twist, if that's good for you great but present it like something "different" I don't think so, don't get me wrong I don't hate the brand, I actually like some of their fragrances, Mon Vetiver, Orange X Santal, of course Bois Imperial (I have not tested the extrait) just to name some, good alternatives to more expensive niche fragrances, I will even buy a couple of bottles, but again there are other houses out there doing the same thing.
I've smelled clones, and these aren't that. Tons of brands have fragrances that are similar. Every aldehyde chypre in the wake of No. 5 from 1921 until the style faded by 1980's wasn't a clone of it, for example. Maybe some were more interested in imitating success than innovating (especially by the 50's and 60's when the style was everywhere), but I wouldn't say Joy or Caleché were clones of Chanel.
@@Varanis_Ridari Well but when a good amount of the fragrances in their line up smell similar to others in the market humm I think that is very suspicious, maybe I'm wrong, maybe I'm too paranoid but I can't see past that fact, as you said there are tons of brands doing something similar and I guess that's why I had a problem to describe this brand as different... thanks!
I've played this game with Drakkar Noir and Paco Rabanne pour Homme recently as well. Each of those spawned dozens of imitators, some brought a new spin, and some not. For every Drakkar Noir there was a dozen Taxis, Xeryuses, Caesars Man's, AD Pluses, Nobiles, and so on. Difference here is people tend to venerate and worship them for being old and discontinued.
Side question, What are your top 3 fragrances you would be sad if someone broke into your home and stole them.
I'd be more sad for the person trying to break in, because we're armed.
@ let's assume you're not home 😭
Someone always is. We all work as security professionals in my house. Risk reward prospects are low, my dude.
@ just follow along with the question 😭. Ok let's make it simpler, let's say you take 10 of your favorite bottles on a trip, which 3 would you be the most sad if they broke on the trip?
Well, if there were 3 fragrances I'd be most sad if broken, it's probably my late father's Old Spice (passed away in 08), my mom's Avon Bird of Paradise (her favorite perfume), and the bottle of Joop! My old best friend back in Baltimore gave me 30 years ago, even though I actually hate wearing the stuff. Everything else is replaceable or I can get over.
I literally think you are the most authoritative person on perfume on the entire internet. Plus you are entertaining and down to earth, and tie perfume into a wider cultural discussion. You should be doing this for the New York Times.
The New York Times wouldn't pay a schmuck like me with no degree, credentials, or vouch from anyone in that industry. It's all cronies and nepos if you don't have the skin on the wall, who you know etc. I crawled out of a dumpster far as they're concerned.
It is a good house to recommend to people who want to dabble their feet into niche. For me personally, their scents are generally to simplistic for my taste.
Dabbling? Probably. Simple used to be the name of the game for niche in the 00's.
From the Essential discovery set, my two favorite were the vetiver with its nice lime, and orange x Santal. Both citrus were just way too fleeting. For the Orange, I ended up getting Aqua Allegoria Orange Soleia, and for a nice lime Bohemian Lime from Goldfield and Banks. It was a good discovery set, but nothing was a full bottle purchase for me. But in comparison to the fast vanishing citruses, the Divine Vanille and Patchouli Mania were quite potent. Two notes I generally dislike so both were not for me, but might be worth checking out for the Vanilla or Patchouli lovers.
The patchouli is next on my list
They're priced like a unicorn in the niche world, so yeah, good value. I ordered their sample kit specifically to try Divine Vanille by Olivier Pescheaux and ended up ordering a full bottle. The rest didn't really resonate with me, they all seemed too clean, too light (even Divine Vanille is too light for what it is). Patchouli Mania was my second favourite, but not enough to seek it out, and Bois Imperial was third placed, just okay to me (it has that metallic fizzy sparkle of Ganymede so it brought it to mind - I'm not too crazy about that scent profile).
That's fair!
I learn so much from your videos. I appreciate your efforts.
I appreciate it!
prob the only house i dont mind dropping full msrp on
Same. Only way you can get them. Resellers charge more.
Is there any notable difference between the original Balenciaga and the Marbert/Bogart formulations?
The original version of Ho Hang was released by Marbert. They bought the house after Christobal died. Bogart then bought Balenciaga from Marbert a decade later and relaunched the fashion side too. They had it about 15 years then flipped it to PPR (now Kering) who farmed the perfume license out to Coty, killing off all the previous Balenciaga fragrances. Marbert Ho Hang vs Bogart Ho Hang are not a ton different because perfumers Jacques Jantzen and Raymond Chaillan were with Firmenich, who owned the formula. Any reformulation done would have been by request therefore, and the only materials that Bogart might have cost-cut in the early 80's was orris butter. Everything else (sandalwood, oakmoss, etc) was not restricted or cost-prohibitive. What *DOES* happen is wilting of the mostly-natural citruses used in the top notes, so it is much harder to find a well-preserved Marbert bottle than to find a Bogart one. Even my 3 bottles show different stages of wilt on the bergamot and orange oils. All of them are going to be extremely expensive anyway. This is a unicorn. You won't do better than $200 (probably more like $300-$400 these days), so just get what you can.
Personally I am not a big fan of YSL L’Homme. I think it smells like every “peel back and smell” fragrance sample included in fashion magazines.
It wasn't very unique, but it also wasn't specifically following anything else. It has a real "Goldilocks" quality that made it the signature for many. Like YSL Jazz some 18 years earlier was very by-the-numbers too, but held its own.
YO where my hommes at? Great video, thanks again. I'm wearing YSL l'homme today. I like it a lot.
It's a L'hommerun
@@Varanis_Ridari :D
Your french pronounciation is good and no one will judge you secretly😅
That's a lie, but I appreciate the attempt! Being American is like a -5 to languages, including our own Americanese English!
Good stuff D, thank your for the video.
No problem 👍
What is a Skalairme , sounds like a fish you can’t eat ?
I have no idea what you're trying to say.
@ , some fragrance note you mentioned skelarmie ?
Sclarene? It's derived from sage
Hmmm... Sounds like I better stock up on Prada L'Homme. It is a nice scent. I do love Versace L'Homme but don';t wear it much. Never tried the others.
Do you use that much of it?
@@Varanis_Ridari Not sure which you mean. Don't wear the Versace or the Prada often. If I was still in office job, I'd probably wear the Prada a lot more. I should wear the Versace more...women in my age range tend to like it.
I meant the Prada. You mentioned backing it up
@@Varanis_Ridari Got it. I like it but don't wear it often these days. I have twenty bottles or so of stuff I really like and "think about" backing up. But as you once admonished, gotta be careful not to end with a back up inventory that makes me look like I'm running a fragrance store.
Let's go into business together
versaces wins easily for me. best smell imo and the price is fantastic
Agreed
Profumo always gave me funeral vibes.
Had an experience where someone used it at a funeral?
It smells funeral appropriate to me.
Fair!