Відео

I actually prefer the ESEE 5 over the 6 for carving. The main reason for this is that I find it easier to choke up on the thicker blade in order to use the tip for fine work, the thinner 6 makes for a bit of a ‘pinchy’ grip. It’s also more comfortable doing push cuts against the thicker spine as it doesn’t dig into your thumb as much. Cutting wise, there’s nothing really between them, since neither is really ideal for the job. To be honest, my choice in a real world scenario would be based on what I was going to primarily use the knife for, as either will perform the carving tasks I’ll need of it, and neither is the ideal solution for carving.

I actually prefer the ESEE 5 over the 6 for carving. The main reason for this is that I find it easier to choke up on the thicker blade in order to use the tip for fine work, the thinner 6 makes for a bit of a ‘pinchy’ grip. It’s also more comfortable doing push cuts against the thicker spine as it doesn’t dig into your thumb as much. Cutting wise, there’s nothing really between them, since neither is really ideal for the job. To be honest, my choice in a real world scenario would be based on what I was going to primarily use the knife for, as either will perform the carving tasks I’ll need of it, and neither is the ideal solution for carving.

@@darkwoodbushcraft Seems like the ESEE 4 is much more geared towards lighter camp tasks, small enough for things like carving, whittling, making feather sticks or a spoon like a mora knife. While still long enough for batoning if needed. ESEE 4 + a hatchet seems like a winning combination…

@@DASCSWEM the 4 and a hatchet would work great together. Truth be told, if you’re carrying a hatchet, then you’d be just as well equipped with any of the smaller blades including folders, since the hatchet will be doing all the heavy work. I think the important thing is to find what works best for you. There is no ‘ideal’ knife, since everyone has slightly different needs at any given time. In my experience, I’ve found that skills trump the knife every time, the more time you spend with a blade in your hand, the less it matters what the blade is.

Thank you!

Thanks, you too!

You’re very welcome 😊. It’s very difficult to carve a bowl out with a straight bladed knife, you have to create a very shallow inverted pyramid shape, since it’s impossible to create curved cuts with a straight edge. You can get something functional and actually quite nice looking. I might well make a video about it at some point if I get the chance.

@@darkwoodbushcraft I made the effort with my izula II, to no avail. In fact, I broke down and purchased a curved blade from Mora. We’ll see how that goes. I would be excited to see how you make the inverted pyramid. Try as I might, I just ended up digging with the tip. You make it all seem so easy which just speaks to your skill at woodcraft. Thanks again for creating this content.

Thank you! 😃

(At least I’m not doing it in the lounge 🫣😆)

Sorry, no link I’m afraid, I made it myself.

@@darkwoodbushcraft thanks for replying If you are interested in please show us how Either way Thanks

Thank you!

Glad you liked it, thanks for watching ☺

Glad you liked it, thanks for watching ☺

Thank you! The blade had the factory coating removed by a previous owner, and I have replaced the scales with contoured ones from TKC. Everything else is factory spec.

Thank you 🙏

We can legally carry a knife that is non-locking and under 3” without good reason (with the exception of a few places like courtrooms, schools and airports). With that in mind you’re absolutely fine to carry any of 91mm Victorinox’s or smaller, including the Swiss Champ. I carry one daily myself. When it comes to fixed blades (or locking blades, which are considered ‘fixed’ by the legal system), then you’re quite correct, you need ‘good reason’ to carry one. Being over here from abroad for a short stay, gives you justification to travel with it if you can show you are using it for ‘bushcraft’ type reasons. However, when transporting it to and from site, make sure it’s not easily accessible (on your belt for example), so buried in the bottom of your bag is best. Ultimately, just apply a bit of common sense. Don’t attract attention, the public tend to have extreme reactions to seeing knives (except Victorinox, which everyone is familiar with), so be mindful about where you take it out. You’ll be much more likely to get into trouble in a suburban/urban area than you will in a rural one. The police won’t search you for no reason (they can’t legally), so if you don’t give them one, you’ve nothing to worry about. I’ve carried a knife since 1976, and I’ve never had an issue.

@@darkwoodbushcraft , THANKS a TONNE for the very detailed information.

@@rahuldoes you’re welcome.

Thank you for your comment 🙏

My feeling is that it’s tempered a little harder than the standard blade. This is likely for two reasons, firstly the teeth are sharper than on the standard blade, and would need to be harder to hold this edge effectively. Secondly, because this blade only cuts on the pull, it doesn’t need to be as soft to accommodate the forward push of the standard blade which cuts on both strokes.

@@darkwoodbushcraft Thanks. I'll bear that in mind. This will be my main field saw, so it looks like a tradeoff in properties. I think carrying both blades and having the standard one as the back sounds good then. Thanks for the reply. It's appreciated. Cheers.

@@WR3ND no problems 👍

Don’t worry, these are indeed specially trained knives that are allowed out in public as they’ve had their stabby gland removed and the metal blades have been replaced by painted chocolate ones. I agree, the background music is quite annoying and I probably won’t do it again 👍

It’s a cracking little knife, I’m glad you’re enjoying it!

Hi, I just stripped off the factory coating with paint stripper. This is the natural patina of the uncoated 1095 carbon steel.

@@PaintedMantattooing Thank you. I just got my ESEE 5 last week so, I'll keep this in mind for well into the future. 👍

Sorry if there was any confusion @@l.patrick2171 I replied on the wrong account 😂 Removing the coating I feel helps to reduce blade friction when carving, it’s very much personal taste. However as a word of caution, if you do remove the coating the carbon steel is much more prone to rusting and damage, which the coating protects it from. Enjoy your knife, it’s a hell of a tool.

Thank you very much!

Glad you enjoyed it

Thank you! And to you mate!

@@darkwoodbushcraft Thanks friend!

Thanks!

Good luck! It’s good to know just how far you can push a general ‘survival knife’ so you know how it will perform if you really need it to. Let us know how you get on 👍

Exactly, all the people are comparing finertooth bahco with the silky saws with pruning teeth. Bigger teeth will always cut faster. The best comparison would be between Bahco 396-jt or 396-js vs any silky saw.

Thank you for your kind comments.

Thanks Scott! Yeah, I’ll address the music in future videos 👍

Thank you!

Thank you, I’ll be addressing the music in future videos 👍

Yes, I have the Izula, Izula 2, 3, 5, 6, Jaraka, Zancudo, Xancudo, Avispa, and Medellin (seems like a lot when I write it down 😂)

Another guy wouldn’t, only wives might complain about men having too many knives. ;) I wondered if you had the Esee PR4 (as it’s a more bushcraft-oriented knife).

Ah, yes I do have a PR4 (I forgot that one), great knife design, but the scales are a little thin. You can get aftermarket ones, which transform the knife, but then the sheath doesn’t fit, so you need a new sheath too, so it can be quite an expensive modification.

I like my PR4. It fits my hands well. Just to share: you can order a set of screws from Esee ($7) and add some liners (DIY) that would make the handle a little fuller while still fitting into the sheath. (If you’re interested in modding, I’ll check. There’s a video from Esee explaining exactly which screws will fit. I saved it somewhere.)

Thanks for the info, I’ve already modified mine with TKC scales which are a huge improvement.

Thank you for your kind comments.

Thank you!

No, the spine is slightly curved. I must admit I prefer to leave it like that, it’s much easier on your hands when you are choking up on the blade, and I usually have at least a handful of things about my person at any given time that will throw a spark, so I find a 90 degree spine a hinderance more often than a help.

@@darkwoodbushcraft Thank you. I'm very reluctant to meddle with my 5, it's still quite new. Re. the comfort of a rounded spine and other things to strike with, yes, and thanks again. I think it's TAOutdoors who has taken a round file to his Esee 6 just beyond the jimping to create a striking spot. Perhaps I'll do that, and keep the coating. More thanks, it was very good to see all the intricate tasks presenting no problem.

I carry mine everywhere these days. Creating a small bowl shape is the one thing that is very difficult with straight blade.

Thanks again Bob! We’ve just moved house, so we’re a bit overwhelmed with that currently, but I have many more videos planned for the not too distant future when things are on a more even keel.

Thank you for taking the time to comment Bob, and thank you for some great feedback. I’m very glad you found the video helpful.

Thank you for your kind comments. The ESEE 5 and ESEE 6 are very different knives, and both very good at what they’re designed for, so it really depends on your needs. They are both very capable big knives, but the 5 is thicker and heavier, so is a better chopper. It’s also a sabre grind, which gives you a ‘wedgier’ profile, which makes it a better splitter. The 6 on the other hand, is a lighter blade (longer, but much thinner blade stock). It’s also a full flat grind, which removes a lot of weight from the blade over the sabre grind. The full flat, makes the 6 a much better slicer, so it wins over the 5 for things like food prep. It is also slightly more manageable (and less tiring), to carve with than the 5. These are only the slight advantages that they have over each other, but they are both very capable knives overall, so either would be a valid choice. To be honest, I usually carry a hatchet and folding saw, so in that case I usually end up with the ESEE Izula 2 in my pocket.

Yes, it’s personal taste, but I find the coating makes the blade a little more ‘sticky’ for carving. The downside is that it obviously exposes the metal to corrosion, but that’s nothing a bit of basic maintenance won’t resolve.

@@darkwoodbushcraft Thanks for the answer! I prefer all my knives without coating. I’ve been looking real hard lately to find a good looking and durable knife and I see alot of people who seem to have removed the coating and dyed the micarta handles on esse knives. I think it looks a whole lot better than the stock esse knives so I just might buy one and do that myself.