Відео

G'day mate. Did you make that motor mounting plate or did you buy it ready made from somewhere? What a great way to increase torque.

I can't believe the balls that little machine has. I have one on order a couple of weeks ago and I'm not sorry now I've done it. I will upgrade the spindle though to ER11. Well done mate.

Elinize sağlık güzel olmuş, fakat bu kadar uğraşmak yerine sonsuz vidanın aynı kalınlığında uzun olanını temin etseydiniz hem yükseklik ayarı orjinal olarak hassas bir biçimde kalırdı, hem de bu kadar kes biç gerek kalmaz işlem kısa sürede tamam olmuş olurdu.

Why is the proxxon spindel not good ; why work the new spindel better?

Amazing vid. Would you able to help me install the BLTouch to my printer? I'm also running Klipper, but I have no idea how to mount it, or configure it within Klipper. I'm also running an SKR 3 EZ board. Thanks buddy,

Не стал брать этот станок лишь только потому, что он в таком виде стоит гораздо дешевле. Очень ненадёжная вещь.

Владимир добрый день Вы занимались доработкой своего токарного станка, добавления цифровых линеек, после установки первого комплекта (DRO LP20E) вы его заменила на другой (YH800-2E), можно узнать причину замены? Я рассматриваю первый комплект к установке на свой токарный мини станок Заранее спасибо Петр

Watch out for grinding dust, that motor is sucking it straight in. fan cooled brushless motors won't survive long, more accurately the esc will fry wheel it goes.

Never cut tube like this, take a charp knif

Sweet, sweet mods, Volodymyr. 👍 Just wondering; if you were asked to apply the same mods and upgrades to our MF70 units for a fee, how much do you think that would roughly run us?

I have been racing rc for a long time and would pay you to make the conversion plate and the torque modification

Very nice work sir

Are you using air filter oil as loctite?

Привет скажите пожалуйста можите отправить силку где купить матор

you will get much better cuts starting from the other y direction ;) also the endmills will last longer

do you this error when finalize a print? !! Must home axis first: 101.480 96.510 20.500 [1566.191]

Not sure if I heard correctly but it sounded like you were reading the runout for the chuck on the indicator as 3/1000 mm but that is actually not what the indicator was showing. Each tick on the indicator means 1/100 and not 1/1000 of a mm. Therefore the runout is ten times higher than what I heard you saying (being three thousandths). Maybe that's just because of incorrect translation, but I can't tell. I hope this was helpful.

Hello, I just started to build my RCB84.1 today. And there are no bladders for the shocks, did these come from in your kit? I received emulsion seal, thanks.

👍👍👍

Good day sir would like to ask if you are selling package spindle upgrade.

I got one exactly like that, the belt is 1.5 x 70 tooth , just in case.

En que material lo realizaste

You are the expert. I wonder... do you think there is any risk or issue running such a large diameter tool on a mill with such small shaft / bearings etc.? I was thinking there may be a reason Proxxon limited the tools to 3mm in diameter? I am genuinely interested because I need something like this for my ff250bl. Nice job!

When locking the tool piece in tighten it anticlockwise, if you read the instructions that's what it advises you to do as it tightens more securely.

Здравствуйте, подскажите пожалуйста, что это за версия станка? Сколько не смотрел в интернете, у всех станков mf70 алюминиевый столик с тонкими стенками и открытыми солазками поперечной подачи. А у вас какая-то другая Конструкция и судя по цвету, столик стальной.

Have you ran it, any updates or videos? Just wating for ya :)

I thought it would choke but managed to cut it. It’s not the stock motor?

I had the same printer and I was never satisfied with it. I modified everything. All fans new and more quiet. All bearings from misumi because after some time they were shaky. Then different hotend (e3d V6 clone) because of continuous under extrusion. Then direct extruder because I could. Then BL Touch because buildplate is not flat. Then vanilla marlin firmware because it's adjustable the way I like it. Then mini 12864 display (without touch) because I have more firmware settings that I can adjust than with the touch display. Then tmc2208 stepper drivers because the original are so loud. Then I changed the board to skr because I wanted 32 bit and marlin 2. And then wanted to get rid of that disgusting metal frame and replaced it with a full bear frame and printed all the bear frame parts and bought missing parts to make it almost like a Prusa. Then I replaced the tmc2208 with tmc2209 so I can have sensorless homing. I also exchanged the power adapter and build my own heatbed with 6 mm aluminium and magnetic build plates. The result is a printer that is better then the Prusa mk 3s+ and even has input shaping. I would never buy a anycubic I3 Mega again. I just had problems with it. And in the end I put more money into it than if I had bought a Prusa from the beginning. The anycubic was just a journey and adventure for me to learn about technology of 3d printing. But never a reliable machine until i had completely rebuild it.

Good video .. what is the addition on the bed travel on the back right? - seems a good fixture to have to lock the bed on that side.

Hello Sir. Me again.. Coming along with the build. Now stuck as I can find the rubber grommet for the rear body mount. Do you remember what bag you found it in or was it even of the plastic trees but I assume it's rubber? Thank you!

'Super help pls. Started by build tonight but can't get the Shock Cap Insert part 81512 on the shock cap... Been trying the last hour... Pls help.

Can't wait for more upcoming videos! Did you have to trim or modify the servo posts to make them fit? Thanks!

I'm going to have to look at my car, I didn't have to modify the chassis side guard for my exhaust.

I used your config as I'm also using TMC2209 but get this error: unable to read tmc uart. Any ideas? Thanks

What is your lathe machine models pls?

What's exactly the problem to mill on a drill press?

Amazing work! All of the smartasses on the internet, who say that these mini lathes/mills are just toys must see this video

Hello again. Ihave a question?: Can you say me please: 1-how much is the diameter? 2- how many mm is the slut in the middle ( place for tool) 3- how many mm you cutted from the edge wher the screws are? Thank you and Best regards

Hi, I've one question to you because I'm not able to do all this upgrading job. I see that everybody is modifying this Proxxon MF 70 milling machine. Is it so important to do this upgrade? Is it a shitty product coming out the box? Thank you

Hello Why you don’t use vise? This is not safe job. You can make 2 peaces very small V-blocks ( 3x2) w(1 or 0/5) cm Then you will use of them not only for some jobs like this,also they can be very useful tools for ather jobs that you need to cut in angle. Also you can do the bottom of the blocks with half circle then you will have very special tools that you had never seen before. Best regards

Máquina pequeña para gran trabajo.

Молодец!!! Думаю что ты принял хорошее решение! Удачи тебе!

Thank for sharing

@zhadlun Hi Volodymyr, I'm an absolute beginner in turning, so my question is possibly naive... I'm interested in implementing a DRO for my small lathe, so I was watching your interesting video, but some doubts arised. About the positioning of the Z axis sensor, I understand this is the standard choice, but this leaves undetected all movements made with the compound cross-slide. And yes, I understand that a diagonal arrangement of the cross slide implies a combination of X and Z travel, and this could be tricky to show (and to read) But in my case, I don't do tapers (not yet...) and thus I keep the cross slide exactly aligned to the Z direction, and I'm using it for small Z movements since I find it more precise and smooth compared to the Z handweel, but this would obviously defeat the Z readout, thus it looks like I'll have to refrain from using the cross slide in DRO mode... So, is there a possible workaround for this, like using a third sensor for the cross slide and a 3-axis DRO? Could it make sense, or am I overlooking / overcomplicating something? ☺ Thank you! Roberto

Доброе время суток подскадите размеры зажимов и паралельных брусочков

I use a hole saw cutter to cut flat surfacing. Remove a center drill, it could be used for flat surfacing.

What a great job you done with your DRO, WOULD you be prepare to share your STL files for the various parts you make, I have same DRO on order at present and I could get the parts printed by my good friend

Part 4

Yesss

Link please