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That's awesome!!

You would think, but early ford is the opposite of that. Large shoe in the rear!

@@chaddilacdesigns Hi I did some research on The Ford Barn and they say, big to front, the wheel cylinder is also big to front, check your self

It goes to wherever you have the positive connected.

Then it'd be a 3 minute video.

Yea down here in Oklahoma we don't really need the heat riser. Thanks for watching!

it'll only get to about 180º inside there, plug oil all over the rubber to lube it... shouldn't be an issue until it's an issue!

Thanks!

Right on man! thanks for watching!!

Thank you! I haven't done anything with the carbs, they are fresh rebuilds and I just set them on the intake for "Shock & Awe" value lol! I'll probably have to tune them with resized jets to get them dialed in.

Thickstun PM-7 Almost the same as the early Tattersfield, Thickstun bought the molds after Tattersfield died in a racing accident. They were friends.

@@chaddilacdesigns Thank You

Welcome!

This is helpful. I have also found pennies in the heat riser ports. Now I know why. Someone told me the blockage helps get that rapraprap exhaust sound. Ever heard that story? Maybe we will see on your motor.

Haven't heard anything about the sound, but my buddy put some pennies in his and they left the chat in a few miles. He never found them.

In the fuel pump stand, same as any other early intake stock or aftermarket.

Didn't you could run early generation intakes on last generation flatheads

Thanks Michael!

Thank you for watching!

S10 frames belong under S10s.

Thanks Spanky!!

Yep, it's getting cleaned up and going back like it was in 1958... follow @hollowell_motor_co on instagram to see the progress!

I don't know that the Canadian block is any different than an American ford block, no difference between Ford and Mercury blocks other than the stroke. It would need to be pressure checked before you know for sure it is a good one.

Thank you!!

Thank you!!

Thanks Layton!!

Thanks man!!

There is a way to adjust the regulator to increase the voltage. I haven't done that, but have seen it, so you'd have to research that. Good luck!

@@chaddilacdesigns thanks!

Nice!

Thanks! Thirdgenauto.com is where I get all my parts from.

Nice... all depends on the motor and if it's worn out or new. My 8ba runs 55# on start, then after it warms up around 30#... I've heard from some older guys they had problems with their engine and could barely get 5-10#. So it just all depends on your engine. Good luck with it!

@@chaddilacdesigns thank you.i just drove it a parade ran 180 water temp. the oil pressure looks really bad because we have a 0-100 gauge .like 0 to 5 maybe 10.we put straight 50 wieght in it,

haha didn't figure you'd see that or catch it! LOL!!

Thanks a bunch Rod!

Welcome!

Thanks man!! Vevor.com

If you're referring to a makers stamps, it would probably have a KH on the back and possibly a size, but sometimes they stamped those inside the hoop.

@@chaddilacdesigns where are you located question mark

Muskogee, OK

thanks Rod!!

it's got Soul!!! haha

Thanks for the tip!

I don't ever want to get used to 32º anywhere! LOL!

Yep!! having fun!!

Awesome! good luck man, hope you find a good one!

It's just a home built one, I bought a 21 stud engine and it was on that stand when I got it.

@@chaddilacdesigns thanks!

Great informative video Chad,loved it 🇦🇺🦘🇦🇺

@ginobiletic825 Thanks Gino!!!

There's nothing like the sound of a flathead man!!

@@chaddilacdesigns got to have a flathead in a traditional '50,s hot rod.

I know that's right!!

I got at least three or four for you.

As my World War II US Army vet Dad told me " Procrastination is the thief of time. " I wish I would have listened sooner.

Thanks!! Thanks for watching!!

@@chaddilacdesigns THANK U 🙏🏽🇨🇷🐺🌕

I think max is like .100 only... I've seen guys run them with .125 but I would think that the early backing plates with lower adjuster would help in that case. That's just my brain justifying keeping and running the ones that are turned too much. LOL!

Welcome!! Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

He's still got it.... You can find Mike @hollowell_motor_co on Instagram! Shoot him a message!!

Thanks for watching!

Right on! Thank for watching!

Thanks man!!

Cool video. I’ve read about how to do this but never seen or done it myself. Was wondering if you were going to replace pinion bearings or rebuild rear since you might have gotten welding splatter on the exposed bearings when you welded driveshaft coupler pins in place.

The way I've done all mine is cut the torque tube to fit and what ever you cut out of torque tube is the same length you cut out of the drive shaft. Never had an issue. And I always use the 46 style radius rods they are shorter and disappear quicker under the frame.

Thank you! No the only part of the bearing exposed was the flat end. Won't be any problem with it. These rearends are tough.

In a perfect world... LOL I had to shorten the flanged end a little more when shortening the torque tube so no real exact measurement.

lol

What did the deluxe panel have different? I didn't know they made them.

Yea I'm with you... I kinda just want the fenders to match and I think it'll look great!

Awesome idea! and I have some of that stripper!! Thanks for the tips and thanks for watching!!