Відео

Thanks for a comment. There is a bevel on the new metal, and a bit of a step, but for all intents and purpose, the bucket scoops dirt just fine, as I was turning a pile of topsoil last night. The advantage now though, I won't have to tip the bucket down to dig, compensating for the worn rounded bottom edge.

Thank you. Much appreciated.

Excellent detail, module 5. Thank you for commenting. Love my 2022 Kona. :-)

Awesome. Thanks for an affirmative comment. I am happy it worked for you.

Awesome. :-)

Did you do the relearn program? There also may be other issues, like a bad fuel filter, pump, or the Throttle Position Sensor?

I would check for a vacuum leak first. Hoses crack and often mice or rats will chew the underside of tubing.

Also, the Mass Airflow Sensor might be failing, or there is a leak in the intake system, allowing air to bypass the MAF?

@@ya472 so it turns out it might be my Ecm the new valve wouldn’t open and made my throttle whistle which was the leaking sound I was looking for so I put the old one back on and it’s not surging or whistling

@@Kameron.Kennedy What year is your engine, and is it a 3.5L? It is common in the 2001 3.5 for the IAC Valve to burn out an electronic item in the ECM. What I just did, I manually opened the throttle to idle rather than put in another ECM. The engine starts fine, but at the current setting, it will stall out when doing a cold start, but once it warms a bit, it idles fine.

Well, maybe it is your device? First sound complaint for any of my videos. I don't say much, other than I am still using the 14 year old solenoid, but took the boots off and blew the dust out. I did order a new China solenoid for backup.

thank you. When I first made this video, I am learning as I go. If you watched my other videos, I have since cleaned both the injectors and the injector pump. I will not remake the video so I don't look like an idiot, because I am keeping it real. 🙂

Yes and no. The problem is the steep angle when the front axle pivots under a loaded FEL, and snaps the retaining pin. I just broke another two days ago, and today, I went and bought FOUR 6 x 50 mm bolts and Nylock nuts for constant replacement. Keeping the splines clean and lubricated is necessary. I will ADD a grease nipple soon, before I break those four pins.

I have 3170 hours, low front axle oil, never added any, and never had front gear problems. hmmm

Ill do a vid when i put mine back together​@@ya472

@@organicvids A video would be awesome. I have been very lax about the front axle oil level, which I really need to address, and probably need seals. Your video would be very helpful. Thx.

The joy is having it work again, without putting up with Dealer nonsense and fees. ;-) You are welcome. Thank you for adding a positive experience.

The problem with guessing, it doesn't involve engineering. 😞 Good luck with spending $4,000+ to replace your shear pins.

Only $4,000 if you do not fracture the case and damage other internal gears, etc. LOL. Which people have experienced, when their 'shear pins' failed. (Guessing is not 'experience'.)

Thumbydoos. LOL.

Great question. When I reassembled the axle housing to the main HST body, the issue never presented itself. I did not disassemble the brake clutch pack, so maybe I just got lucky. This is an issue for you?

@@ya472 I had a bit of an issue lining everything up but the case half and brake clutch seem to line up and go back together. I feel like if it didn’t the case wouldn’t mate back up correctly. My question is the brake lever moves freely. I push it to the forward position and the wheels don’t lock or drag. So I don’t know if I’m putting an enough pressure on the lever or not. Or I don’t understand how the brake works

Really? How is that? I was building engines and transmissions since 1975. I currently have a 2001 Nissan 3.3 to rebuild, when I get time.

Thanks for adding your comment. Happy when someone resolves their issue.

Yes, the BX is my firewood buddy, and fellow landscaper. He works on fumes. LOL.

Hi. It was five years ago, and I do not remember, but if you can lift the hood, it is an easy check.

No, I seldom look at torque specs unless I go internal, like rod or main caps. Often I go snug plus 1/8 rotation. However, with the oil filter, and it has been months since the last change, but seems to me the housing slips past an o-ring? I think I didn't see the need for any torque, just light snug. ??? Not sure.

Happy to help. Thank you for the positive comment, as this is exactly why I post repair videos. (it started when I could not find helpful videos in UA-cam for my repairs. lol )

Yes. Best to Google that information and UA-cam it too. Apparently it can be very serious. However a CODE does not necessarily offer the problem, but a symptom of many potential problems.

I would be happy if they put any improvement in new production AND in replacement parts. It seems ridiculous to replace broken parts with inadequate replacements.

Any hydraulic oil will work. I think I used #46 weight, and #32 would be fine. It has been years, since I did this. lol What kind of oil came out of it? Theoretically even engine oil, like 30 weight will work too. Good luck with your build.

@@ya472 thank you I use got #46 I just wanted make sure I was right and how much #46 should I put in it by the way and there wasn't any oil in it at all some dude that got fired from my shop try rebuild it and messed it up so I had rebuild it from a bucket of parts but I did everything correctly. now does the axle take #46 as well

@@michaelmilligan7291 Sorry, I would just be guessing at this point, as this is the only transaxle I took apart, so my memory is vague.

@@ya472 thanks for the info

Thank you. Not sure I mentioned it, but that screen started life as a landscapers trailer tailgate/ramp.

Recently mine broke again. As usual, it was buried in the mud. :-)

What will not go back together, the spline shaft? It only goes on one way, so it lines up the universal joints for balance. Be sure the splines are clean and use "dry lubricant."

@@ya472 Yeah. I couldn’t get the rear end of the drive shaft into the universal joint. Like you said “clean and lubed”. Mine wasn’t. All good now. Happy new year.

@@MDR-hn2yz Awesome. Happy New Year!

I am not quite sure which part you are referring to, but if I remember, I used needle nose pliers to pull the pin and turn the filter retainer, and maybe a 23 mm socket to unscrew the filter housing. I thought that was mentioned in the video? It is pretty simple, no special tools needed. As someone else suggested, just use the socket to unscrew the filter housing, remove the pin later.

@@ya472 Yeah, the needle nose pliers is what i was talking about 👍

Yes, but for most people without a hoist and a large catch basin, and considering the tight opening to remove the filter assembly, one slip could become very messy.

And by your post, you have successfully restored operations? Congrats. Thanks for the post.

Try this procedure of removing and reinstalling the fuses. It often reboots the computer function, and the charging option shows in the menu. If you read the comments, this has worked for many people.

Not sure how I saved your life, but thank you. The main reason I post these repair videos, is to help the do-it-yourself capable people.

Sounds more like sour grapes. LOL. Interesting why or how it is locked. Good luck, and look forward to hearing about the final results. 🙂I am wondering if the fork shaft is seized, as happened to mine the first time, if you check my earlier video. ua-cam.com/video/fS2RzWaMfkU/v-deo.html

If the fork shaft is seized, it will be a much cheaper repair, other than the labour to fix before a catastrophe like gears and case fracturing?

In my opinion, the fork and shaft bind because people push hard on the pedal, expecting the differential lock to activate. Pressing hard on the pedal is the worst thing to do. Learning how to engage (and more important - dis-engage) the diff-lock is very specific, and not as Kubota manual or employees explain.

Happy it worked for you. I was having a hot dog at Costco today, relating to strangers at a table, how pleased I am, having posted this video and getting lots of positive feedback. thank you.

Kinda the basis for briquettes or coal?

Great. One would think Hyundai would pick up and modify something? Thanks for adding a comment. Much appreciated. Good to see it works on the "N" too.

I was incorrect, but did not fix the video. Originally I thought coolant penetrated and caused the failure. I did not edit and repost, as I figured once people get in there, they would follow their own instinct. All the elements necessary are in the video. If you have any other questions, I will attempt my best, as I probably should rewatch the video myself.

What you mention was seriously considered, and then discounted. First, more holes would weaken the differential carrier. Second, harder pins would be more brittle. Grade 8 bolts are considered stronger than grade 5, but are not useful in certain situations where there is shock loads. Grade 8 bolts will snap, where Grade 5 can handle more impact because the metal is more elastic. Consider what I either said or explained; the four 10 mm pins are almost functional, but in cross-sectional area and strength, the 12 mm pins are 40% stronger and more durable, and require minimal modification to the stock parts.

The first failure was fixed with stock factory parts at 1500 hours. The second failure of stock factory parts motivated me to find a way to improve on the existing system. Engaging the diff-lock is only about10% cause of failure, and DIS-ENGAGEMNT or lack of fast and smooth operation is cause for the other 90%. I now have added 550 hours after the diff-lock modification, and it is still working perfectly and used extensively. As I also explained, most operators and Kubota Dealer employees DO NOT KNOW how to properly use the BX diff-lock.

I always anticipate when I need the diff-lock and apply it before needing it. thx

@@ya472 if i get stuck i make sure to not engage drive, depress posi lock if it doesnt engage i tap the hydro pedal then release it then engage lock. That way tgere is less a chance of breaking pins. Also keep power under half.

You are talking about the diff-lock shaft. On my tractor, getting the arm off the shaft was nearly impossible, as it was almost an interference fit, then rusted. If you get the arm off, using a pick or similar, you should be able to get the two o-rings out. Be sure to drain your hydraulic fluid first, as this is the bottom of the holding tank. These will be METRIC o-rings, so be sure either to get some from the dealer first, or once you get them out, they can be measured for size and ordered through an auto-parts store. (suggestion)

Wow, sounds like you have had other issues too? Please let me know what your plan is? Did you have a theory why your diff-lock failed, or is stuck locked?

With my bucket extension, I have very little use for other attachments, as the shovel face provides excellent digging, great for rock and log handling and works well for brush pile "grapple" work. The extra capacity makes soil transfer much faster. I did notice your thumb has a huge divot in it? I will be watching more of your videos, after chores.

You just have to watch more of my videos. LOL. I appreciate the curiosity. ua-cam.com/video/YPZuJQZXd5s/v-deo.html

Also, those hooks welded to the back of the bucket are very useful, and not in the way.

All donations graciously accepted. It pleases me when people do their own work, and appreciate the effort required to post free information for the benefit of all. I look forward to your video and information concerning your diff-lock modification process. Thank you for the comment.

How many hours on your machine and what do you anticipate caused the failure?

@@ya472Just over 650 hours on my BX2370 (non-backhoe version). I had been using the diff lock off/on throughout the day. Clearing brush and leveling off a plot to plant grass. Also moving a large pile of wood chips that I had just finished running through the chipper. The ground was very uneven, and smeary from rain. 4WD wasn't enough, as I kept getting stuck or couldn't get the traction to scoup. I did hear a loud "clunk" noise that I suspect was the pins breaking but didn't give it much thought. It wasn't until I was mowing later that day when I noticed the wheels were sliding in my yard and leaving tracks (becasue the diff lock was still engaged). It was surprising to me just how many people experienced this same problem. I had about 5 hours disassembly and another 7 to re-assemble. Again, great video.

@bastardsbrewery9497 You didn't have heavy rear ballast? It annoys me when certain know-it-alls, including Kubota employees say this is operator error, when clearly, as in my video, the diff-lock is functionally defective.

@@ya472 I have my rear wheels filled with beet juice. I think that is supposed to add something like 100 pounds? I 100% agree with you though about it being a poor design. I showed the differential to my father in law, who owns a metal fabricating machine shop. The first thing he said was "is that all the farther the pins go in?" Not only are the pins inadequate in size, there is too much play and they don't engage the gear far enough.

Thanks for the post. There are two kinds of death wobble, bad front suspension and bad rear suspension. 🙂The bad rear suspension will help you change direction, the front wobble will rattle your dentures. LOL.

Thank you for the comment. These affirmations will help promote this video, to help others.

I am not aware of an oil level indicator, other than the engine dipstick.

If you replaced th ECM, you now need to have your key programmed into the new ECM. Locksmiths can do it, probably you need a mobile one?

Awesome. It works for EVs too! Thanks for the additional information. It will be helpful to many others.

Could you explain better what were the fuses you disconnected? I tried but I can't solve the problem. thank you