Thank you for your time in putting this together. Was a deer in the headlights when I found the oil filter part and saw it wasn't a screw on type. That and I couldn't find any videos for a 2022 Kona specifically in performing what you detailed. So once again, much appreciated!
Thank you for adding your comment. I appreciate people who are willing to care for their own vehicles. It is sad that Hyundai does NOT include an explanation and diagrams.
Thanks for posting, I have a 1.6t in my Elantra N-Line. I was having trouble finding replacement filter part numbers. I'm sure it's the same. A bit different from a spin on style but, seems manageable. Good luck with your Kona seems like a fun little ride.
My Genesis has the same style filter. PSA, it takes a pretty decent amount of force to push the cartridge back on with the drain cock. When installing the cartridge into the housing, the drain cock has to be installed on the cartridge. You know you have it right when the hole in the housing and the drain cock are EXACTLY aligned (not offset). I cannot imagine how badly quick lube places might mess this up. Man I messed with this for 30 mins thinking I'm gonna crush the cartridge, then I gave it a little extra force, bam! The holes finally aligned.
I totally agree, that any oil change tech, or home mechanic will have an issue. The first time is the most difficult, as one doesn't expect to push so hard. Thank you for your comment.
The last time I did an oil change, I opened the package and nothing looked like it would fit. The dealer gave me a cartridge kit for a different vehicle. The lady was nice enough however, to drive half an hour to my home, with the correct kit. Glad this video helped you, and thank you for your comment. Much appreciated.
I'm so glad you posted this... I would've had no idea how to get this oil filter apart.!! I am coming from a Veloster turbo and thought that it would be the same, same engine and all.. not so much. Thank you.!!
Apparently this is a completely new design, so the new filter was only available through the Dealer. I believe auto parts stores can now order them too??? I need a new filter, so will have a search.
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 the clerk was pretty surprised that he had one. I was surprised at how different it was. Until I saw your video I was convinced I had the wrong one. I have a question, now that you have had your Kona for awhile... how do you like it.?? We have had ours for 4000 miles(4 months) and we love it. We did some research and it looks to us that the engine issues are primarily found in the 2.o platform.
@@AMAZINGRC I have personally owned about 200 various vehicles, so I liked the look of the Kona, and I liked everything about the specs on paper. And, the price and the utility nature of my needs fit this model. Generally speaking, I do a lot of local driving, alone, so I just wanted something peppy, at a reasonable cost. I just returned home from a 5,000km (3,000 mile) road trip. Every vehicle has its quirks and oddities. The turbo blow-ff valve, (or waste-gate?) failed at least twice, and the cruise control at times was perfect, but at times erratic. I also changed the AWD rear differential oil just before this trip and the car now has 20,000km (12,000miles) on it. Mostly the car was awesome... max was 44 Canadian MPG and lowest mileage was 33 mpg. (calculated per tank full.) I hope to resolve the turbo issue by installing an aftermarket blow-off valve (designed for racing). In all models and brands, there are issues, and hopefully Hyundai's general reputation for quality will serve me well.
@@AMAZINGRC And do I like driving the car? Absolutely AMAZING drive. I followed a 'crazy fella' in a full size pickup for 23 miles, ranging between 140-180kmph. I blasted around mountain curves well in excess of the recommended speed.... and blasting up and down the grades was a thrill ride. Do I enjoy driving the Kona N-line? I guess so. lol AMAZING
@@AMAZINGRC AND, the 2022 N-line Ultimate AWD saved a bear's life..... came around a mountain corner doing 110kmph (66mph) and a bear cut diagonally across the highway, into my lane going the same direction... the braking and handling was awesome.. totally under control as the bear reached the shoulder and disappeared into the bush.
@@jimhill6586 I had a few 402s.. Chevelle SS. But also had a couple older Chev and Pontiacs with Cartridge. I also question the 0w20, as it is designed for fuel economy, but apparently it is supposed to do the job. In the research though, apparently the new tighter engines shear the molecules of heavier oil. Some people have put 60,000 miles on their engines with 0w20, apparently without issue. ??????? I prefer to stick with 5w30 in full synthetic over 0w20. I don't live in Alaska or NWT.
I just left 'trucks' after 20 years and bought this great little car in white. Just flipped 500 miles which is the point I always do my oil 1st LOF service. appreciate the info! this thing gets nearly double the MPG's my '19 Ranger 4x4 did, got 4.5' of my garage back and significantly less insurance costs.
thanks for the info , after all these sales , very few DIY video / info out there... with your help i was able to do couple of OC but the OIL type and oil capacity is no where to be found on these cars.. the owners manuals are pre printed junk from Korea...mine engine lists 0W20 but no details on Capacity... i eyeballed it it 5Q both times.. thanks
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 Yes the standard 0W20 Oil jug in US and Canada is rated at 5 Quarts ( 4.73 Liters) so one jug is good for an oil change. Now in Canada you do sometimes get actual 5 Lt or 4 Lt jugs too, be careful with those. My car manual for Kona N 1.6 Turbo did not list the oil type or capacity anywhere. please share the online source where you got this. the OP in his car had 5W30. so good job on our Korean Mgf and dealerships for all the confusion out there..
@@baldevgrewal1123 Yeah, many questions about oil change and oil type consistency and the lack of a good index or Contents list. I can't remember where I read it, but 5w30 was recommended for 'severe service', and with the turbo heat, I don't trust 0w20, which was designed to improve fuel mileage. I am more concerned with metal wear than fuel mileage, as I may keep the car past warranty, when repairs are on my dime.
My Mazda 3 has 130k+ miles with 0w-20 only changed every 8-10k miles. I wouldn't go that far between changes in the Kona with it's Turbo but I wouldn't be worried about using it. There was one particular Hyundai Engine that had lots of problems and had a pretty big recall but the 1.6T has an extremely good reputation :).
If I lived in like Florida or somewhere else mostly really hot I would probably think about doing 0w-30 but in the cold that thinner oil gonna be better.
To take out the oil filter from the housing cap the oil drain valve plug needs to be removed. The end of that little plastic plug holds onto the plastic end of the filter.
Thank you for that juicy tidbit, as I did not realize that. 🙂 I will be more diligent on the next oil change, and update my video somehow. ( I am learning.)
@@promokator You have reminded me that I have to do a gearbox oil change. I did post a video when I changed the AWD rear differential oil. It was badly contaminated. Since you reminded me, hopefully within a week, if we get some decent weather, I will do the gearbox and post a video. 😉
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 thank you, it's a totally different process apposed to the earlier models... of course. I'm going out to the Kona now to fiddle with it so if I get it figured out I will send it your way.
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 I figured it out... sorta. Problem is I did two things at the same time so I'm not sure which one it is. First I went into the infotainment and found the service interval reset for the "fuel" and reset it. At the same time I gid the old school oil reset by using the gas pedal. 1. Enter the Kona 2. Press Start/Stop button 3. Press Gass pedal 3 full and complete times. 4. Press Start/Stop button a second time, turning the full cluster on 5. Press gas pedal 3 full and complete times 6. Press and hold Brake and press Start/Stop to turn on vehicle. I really wish I would've separated these three fixes. I thi k you only need one...lol. if what you try does not work try these and if you can figure out which one is the one that works you could make a new video. I know it will be popular because it does not exist thus far on UA-cam. Good luck and let me know what you find out so I may be able to simplify my elongated process. 🤣
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 OKI actually figured it out now it is on it is on the menu go to vehicle after you hit set up go to service interval and then reset it.. That'll take you back to the beginning on the oil. Good luck
I have 30,00 km (18,000 miles) in just over three years and still love the car. I had an accident in January, hit an ice patch on a left turn, went over the sidewalk and struck two landscaping rocks. The oil filter mounts on two engine block tabs that cracked, so a new short block had to be installed. Otherwise, it is still amazing to drive. I do have an issue when "playing' in heavy traffic with the throttle, suddenly I lose the turbo? No idea the cause and it can't be replicated, but has happened five times in three years. I bought it with the tech package including driving assists, which are wonderful on long drives. ie: lane centering and adaptive cruise. PS I have owned over 200 various vehicles, including a 67 Firebird 400 and a 1984 Trans Am, and various 70's sports cars, and this Kona N-line is the best fun. I also built a 1968 Datsun pickup with a Chevy 327-350 horse 4-speed, which was also a blast to drive.
I could not tell you at the moment, but seems to me, it was supposed to be about 4 1/2 quarts. In Canada we deal with Liters, which is slightly smaller than a USA quart. I think my book called for 5 liters, but I too think it put the level slightly above the dipstick reading. In truth, it won't hurt anything, as a pint is a minor amount in an oil pan.
Kirkland is good and made by Warren that makes Supertech for Walmart. If you're going to get rid of your car soon, Kirkland is a good choice. If you're going to keep it long term, I'd suggest Pennzoil, Pennzoil Platinum, and Valvoline. They have a lower NOACK so it doesn't burn and is better for a turbo and GDI.
What you are saying, that if you put another teaspoon of sugar in the pudding, it will taste better? In my 55 years of mechanics, considering ash oil has been run in Million mile semi tractors, used on farms, etc. I believe you are going into overkill. I bet you also install K&N air filters and buy extended warranties ? Perhaps if you also post some links to verify that engine oil will destroy an engine, someone might click on it.
@@johnfranklin5277 ha ha ha.... Great Days. Some people seem locked into a stupor, meaning they will not take the time to do their own research. Because the heard something from drunk Uncle Charlie, whom they admired, it must be true. So, yes some of my comments seem brutal, but I do it for the benefit of people who do not quite believe everything they hear. Yes, I am still running 5W30 Full synthetic and should be coming due for an oil change at 32,000km. At least that is what I marked down.
That is an awesome question. It is a biggie(guessing 14mm), and next time I do the oil change, and if I remember, I will add it and the filter nut size, to the description. I believe the filter type is in the video, but I will have to recheck that.
Somewhere, in the manual I think, or on their website, Hyundai recommends 5w30 full synthetic for Severe service. To me, a turbo is representative of severe service. One should remember, Hyundai has a very limited engine warranty, and almost any maintained engine will outlast their warranty. After Warranty Hyundai does not care if the engine fails, but Dealers will reap a $10,000 jackpot, one I am not willing to pay. So, with my knowledge, experience and research, I do not trust 0W20. A top Nissan racing engineer doesn't trust it either, recommending 5W30 or 5w40 for engines in their performance cars.
No, I seldom look at torque specs unless I go internal, like rod or main caps. Often I go snug plus 1/8 rotation. However, with the oil filter, and it has been months since the last change, but seems to me the housing slips past an o-ring? I think I didn't see the need for any torque, just light snug. ??? Not sure.
Is it me or the Pin was installed backwards... at the start of the Video the pull side of drain plug on the Oil filter is installed on the outside. When the oil was drained you put the tab inside the plastic walled cavity. I like to think that the pointed side should reside in the enclosure and pull tab outside...let me know if anyone had any issues with this. did my 3rd OC today, first at 2200, second at 4600 Km and today at 6000 Km i do this once every 6 Months. summer end , Winter start and now I am good for the summer again..
At 2:50, the pin is very visible, and it resides the way you stated. But should the grab side of the pin should be between the two wall risers, to protect it from accidental snagging. (if I understand your question correctly) At 7:15, I see I installed it backwards? lol At least that is how I think it should work? It doesn't make sense the pointy end would be in there, unless there was a chance something could hit the point, and push the pin out? I am not sure it would really make any difference? Good CATCH.
Why do you have this concern about carbon build up on intake valves? Who says this happens 'due to nature of gdi" ??? Specifically which automotive company engine has this issue?
Perhaps you are reading articles like this one? www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/chemicals/gdi-engines-carbon-buildup/ My suggestion is not to worry about it. If this was a real problem, you wouldn't be reading about these problems from chemical manufacturers, who like to sell products. Too many GDI engines have clocked over 100,000 miles without a serious carbon buildup issue. Perhaps it is wise not to go too long between oil changes. Just because you are running synthetic oil, does not keep the contaminants out of the oil, which is probably the 'real reason' for carbon buildup on intake valves. Old oil becomes thinner with age, and is more easily sucked past the valve guides and rings. I do a finger rub test on my oil. If oil off the dipstick does not feel slippery when rubbed between fingers, it should be changed.
LOL I could spoil myself with a new Corvette too, because I could easily buy one, but funny thing is, after owning 200 vehicles, from Z28, Tran Am and a hot rod V8 Datsun pickup, the 2022 Kona N-line 1.6t DCT AWD with every option, is more exciting and fun than the Kona N.
![[COMMENT FAIRE LA VIDANGE ET LES FILTRES SUR HYUNDAI KONA 1.0 T-GDI]](/img/n.gif)
Thank you for your time in putting this together. Was a deer in the headlights when I found the oil filter part and saw it wasn't a screw on type. That and I couldn't find any videos for a 2022 Kona specifically in performing what you detailed. So once again, much appreciated!
Thank you for adding your comment. I appreciate people who are willing to care for their own vehicles. It is sad that Hyundai does NOT include an explanation and diagrams.
Thanks for posting, I have a 1.6t in my Elantra N-Line. I was having trouble finding replacement filter part numbers. I'm sure it's the same. A bit different from a spin on style but, seems manageable. Good luck with your Kona seems like a fun little ride.
Thank you. I will be posting other UA-cam videos on my Kona, as I deal with issues, maintenance and maybe some fun stuff. lol thanks for watching.
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 jb4 time.
@@hotrod8497 I want to see some real-time dyno runs with and without the JB4. :-) Any links?
You need a kit that includes a crush washer for the drain plug. And the cartridge filter plus O ring.
Great video, thank you! If anyone is wondering the process is the same for the Elantra N line as these two cars share the same motors
Thank you for the helpful comment.
The oil filter is different on Elantra N.
My Genesis has the same style filter. PSA, it takes a pretty decent amount of force to push the cartridge back on with the drain cock. When installing the cartridge into the housing, the drain cock has to be installed on the cartridge. You know you have it right when the hole in the housing and the drain cock are EXACTLY aligned (not offset). I cannot imagine how badly quick lube places might mess this up. Man I messed with this for 30 mins thinking I'm gonna crush the cartridge, then I gave it a little extra force, bam! The holes finally aligned.
I totally agree, that any oil change tech, or home mechanic will have an issue. The first time is the most difficult, as one doesn't expect to push so hard. Thank you for your comment.
Thank you ! Made my first oil change super easy. When I opened package I was like what is this and what do all these pieces do 😂
The last time I did an oil change, I opened the package and nothing looked like it would fit. The dealer gave me a cartridge kit for a different vehicle. The lady was nice enough however, to drive half an hour to my home, with the correct kit. Glad this video helped you, and thank you for your comment. Much appreciated.
im 32 and just got one. beautiful car
My wife wasn't as enthused as I was, but I have owned 200 vehicles. It's my thing.
I'm so glad you posted this... I would've had no idea how to get this oil filter apart.!! I am coming from a Veloster turbo and thought that it would be the same, same engine and all.. not so much. Thank you.!!
Apparently this is a completely new design, so the new filter was only available through the Dealer. I believe auto parts stores can now order them too??? I need a new filter, so will have a search.
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 the clerk was pretty surprised that he had one. I was surprised at how different it was. Until I saw your video I was convinced I had the wrong one. I have a question, now that you have had your Kona for awhile... how do you like it.?? We have had ours for 4000 miles(4 months) and we love it. We did some research and it looks to us that the engine issues are primarily found in the 2.o platform.
@@AMAZINGRC I have personally owned about 200 various vehicles, so I liked the look of the Kona, and I liked everything about the specs on paper. And, the price and the utility nature of my needs fit this model. Generally speaking, I do a lot of local driving, alone, so I just wanted something peppy, at a reasonable cost. I just returned home from a 5,000km (3,000 mile) road trip. Every vehicle has its quirks and oddities. The turbo blow-ff valve, (or waste-gate?) failed at least twice, and the cruise control at times was perfect, but at times erratic. I also changed the AWD rear differential oil just before this trip and the car now has 20,000km (12,000miles) on it. Mostly the car was awesome... max was 44 Canadian MPG and lowest mileage was 33 mpg. (calculated per tank full.) I hope to resolve the turbo issue by installing an aftermarket blow-off valve (designed for racing). In all models and brands, there are issues, and hopefully Hyundai's general reputation for quality will serve me well.
@@AMAZINGRC And do I like driving the car? Absolutely AMAZING drive. I followed a 'crazy fella' in a full size pickup for 23 miles, ranging between 140-180kmph. I blasted around mountain curves well in excess of the recommended speed.... and blasting up and down the grades was a thrill ride. Do I enjoy driving the Kona N-line? I guess so. lol AMAZING
@@AMAZINGRC AND, the 2022 N-line Ultimate AWD saved a bear's life..... came around a mountain corner doing 110kmph (66mph) and a bear cut diagonally across the highway, into my lane going the same direction... the braking and handling was awesome.. totally under control as the bear reached the shoulder and disappeared into the bush.
Thanks! Just looking here because I'm doing my new Kona. Never had to deal with a cartridge filter before. Thanks for the info.
Thank you. Glad my video is helpful. Please share and like, if you don't mind.
@@jimhill6586 I had a few 402s.. Chevelle SS. But also had a couple older Chev and Pontiacs with Cartridge. I also question the 0w20, as it is designed for fuel economy, but apparently it is supposed to do the job. In the research though, apparently the new tighter engines shear the molecules of heavier oil. Some people have put 60,000 miles on their engines with 0w20, apparently without issue. ??????? I prefer to stick with 5w30 in full synthetic over 0w20. I don't live in Alaska or NWT.
I just left 'trucks' after 20 years and bought this great little car in white. Just flipped 500 miles which is the point I always do my oil 1st LOF service. appreciate the info!
this thing gets nearly double the MPG's my '19 Ranger 4x4 did, got 4.5' of my garage back and significantly less insurance costs.
I traded in my 2001 Pathfinder 3.5l automatic. I like my 2022 Kona.
I also asked Insurance if there was another discount for autonomous braking... it was extra savings. 🙂
thanks for the info , after all these sales , very few DIY video / info out there... with your help i was able to do couple of OC but the OIL type and oil capacity is no where to be found on these cars.. the owners manuals are pre printed junk from Korea...mine engine lists 0W20 but no details on Capacity... i eyeballed it it 5Q both times.. thanks
I am assuming you mean US quarts (5.1 US) which are similar to liters, as in Canada, where my owner's manual and online for my car is 4.8 liters.
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 Yes the standard 0W20 Oil jug in US and Canada is rated at 5 Quarts ( 4.73 Liters) so one jug is good for an oil change. Now in Canada you do sometimes get actual 5 Lt or 4 Lt jugs too, be careful with those. My car manual for Kona N 1.6 Turbo did not list the oil type or capacity anywhere. please share the online source where you got this. the OP in his car had 5W30. so good job on our Korean Mgf and dealerships for all the confusion out there..
@@baldevgrewal1123 Yeah, many questions about oil change and oil type consistency and the lack of a good index or Contents list. I can't remember where I read it, but 5w30 was recommended for 'severe service', and with the turbo heat, I don't trust 0w20, which was designed to improve fuel mileage. I am more concerned with metal wear than fuel mileage, as I may keep the car past warranty, when repairs are on my dime.
My Mazda 3 has 130k+ miles with 0w-20 only changed every 8-10k miles. I wouldn't go that far between changes in the Kona with it's Turbo but I wouldn't be worried about using it.
There was one particular Hyundai Engine that had lots of problems and had a pretty big recall but the 1.6T has an extremely good reputation :).
If I lived in like Florida or somewhere else mostly really hot I would probably think about doing 0w-30 but in the cold that thinner oil gonna be better.
Thank you for sharing. I am a bit old school, and rather use 5w30 full synthetic until I get more information, like you have posted. (Canada)
To take out the oil filter from the housing cap the oil drain valve plug needs to be removed. The end of that little plastic plug holds onto the plastic end of the filter.
Thank you for that juicy tidbit, as I did not realize that. 🙂 I will be more diligent on the next oil change, and update my video somehow. ( I am learning.)
I did not change the filter for my second oil change, as it only had 4,000 miles on it.
Learning with you brother had to watch your video to get an idea how to do it. Definitely different than any other canister filer I've delt with
Hi, could you show how to check the oil level in gearbox?
@@promokator You have reminded me that I have to do a gearbox oil change. I did post a video when I changed the AWD rear differential oil. It was badly contaminated. Since you reminded me, hopefully within a week, if we get some decent weather, I will do the gearbox and post a video. 😉
Did the oil change with confidence thanks to you. QUESTION: How do I reset my dashboard oil Guage.??
I hope to do an oil change today, so once I figure it out again, I will post an answer.
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 thank you, it's a totally different process apposed to the earlier models... of course. I'm going out to the Kona now to fiddle with it so if I get it figured out I will send it your way.
If you have Bluelink I believe you can reset your maintenance schedule too?
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 I figured it out... sorta. Problem is I did two things at the same time so I'm not sure which one it is. First I went into the infotainment and found the service interval reset for the "fuel" and reset it. At the same time I gid the old school oil reset by using the gas pedal.
1. Enter the Kona
2. Press Start/Stop button
3. Press Gass pedal 3 full and complete times.
4. Press Start/Stop button a second time, turning the full cluster on
5. Press gas pedal 3 full and complete times
6. Press and hold Brake and press Start/Stop to turn on vehicle.
I really wish I would've separated these three fixes. I thi k you only need one...lol. if what you try does not work try these and if you can figure out which one is the one that works you could make a new video. I know it will be popular because it does not exist thus far on UA-cam. Good luck and let me know what you find out so I may be able to simplify my elongated process. 🤣
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 OKI actually figured it out now it is on it is on the menu go to vehicle after you hit set up go to service interval and then reset it.. That'll take you back to the beginning on the oil. Good luck
hows ur kona holding up? do u still own it? how many miles so far?
I have 30,00 km (18,000 miles) in just over three years and still love the car. I had an accident in January, hit an ice patch on a left turn, went over the sidewalk and struck two landscaping rocks. The oil filter mounts on two engine block tabs that cracked, so a new short block had to be installed. Otherwise, it is still amazing to drive. I do have an issue when "playing' in heavy traffic with the throttle, suddenly I lose the turbo? No idea the cause and it can't be replicated, but has happened five times in three years. I bought it with the tech package including driving assists, which are wonderful on long drives. ie: lane centering and adaptive cruise. PS I have owned over 200 various vehicles, including a 67 Firebird 400 and a 1984 Trans Am, and various 70's sports cars, and this Kona N-line is the best fun. I also built a 1968 Datsun pickup with a Chevy 327-350 horse 4-speed, which was also a blast to drive.
Did you put 4 or 5 quarts? Seeing mixed answers online. I poured in 5 quarts and the dip stick reads very full
I could not tell you at the moment, but seems to me, it was supposed to be about 4 1/2 quarts. In Canada we deal with Liters, which is slightly smaller than a USA quart. I think my book called for 5 liters, but I too think it put the level slightly above the dipstick reading. In truth, it won't hurt anything, as a pint is a minor amount in an oil pan.
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 thanks for the response. I ended up draining a quart and it now reads perfectly in the middle of the dip stick!
Kirkland is good and made by Warren that makes Supertech for Walmart. If you're going to get rid of your car soon, Kirkland is a good choice. If you're going to keep it long term, I'd suggest Pennzoil, Pennzoil Platinum, and Valvoline. They have a lower NOACK so it doesn't burn and is better for a turbo and GDI.
What you are saying, that if you put another teaspoon of sugar in the pudding, it will taste better? In my 55 years of mechanics, considering ash oil has been run in Million mile semi tractors, used on farms, etc. I believe you are going into overkill. I bet you also install K&N air filters and buy extended warranties ? Perhaps if you also post some links to verify that engine oil will destroy an engine, someone might click on it.
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 Wow!! That was kinda brutal......Bad Day??
@@johnfranklin5277 ha ha ha.... Great Days. Some people seem locked into a stupor, meaning they will not take the time to do their own research. Because the heard something from drunk Uncle Charlie, whom they admired, it must be true. So, yes some of my comments seem brutal, but I do it for the benefit of people who do not quite believe everything they hear. Yes, I am still running 5W30 Full synthetic and should be coming due for an oil change at 32,000km. At least that is what I marked down.
What's the drain plug size?
That is an awesome question. It is a biggie(guessing 14mm), and next time I do the oil change, and if I remember, I will add it and the filter nut size, to the description. I believe the filter type is in the video, but I will have to recheck that.
Hi, you still running 5 30 in the kona....no issue with that viscosity? Or does Hyundai give you the option of 0 20 or 5 30. Thx
Somewhere, in the manual I think, or on their website, Hyundai recommends 5w30 full synthetic for Severe service. To me, a turbo is representative of severe service. One should remember, Hyundai has a very limited engine warranty, and almost any maintained engine will outlast their warranty. After Warranty Hyundai does not care if the engine fails, but Dealers will reap a $10,000 jackpot, one I am not willing to pay. So, with my knowledge, experience and research, I do not trust 0W20. A top Nissan racing engineer doesn't trust it either, recommending 5W30 or 5w40 for engines in their performance cars.
0W20 is recommended because it works for Nissan's fuel mileage rating. Simple.
Use 0W-30.
You know the torque spec for the drain plug and oil filter pot?
No, I seldom look at torque specs unless I go internal, like rod or main caps. Often I go snug plus 1/8 rotation. However, with the oil filter, and it has been months since the last change, but seems to me the housing slips past an o-ring? I think I didn't see the need for any torque, just light snug. ??? Not sure.
Is it me or the Pin was installed backwards... at the start of the Video the pull side of drain plug on the Oil filter is installed on the outside. When the oil was drained you put the tab inside the plastic walled cavity. I like to think that the pointed side should reside in the enclosure and pull tab outside...let me know if anyone had any issues with this. did my 3rd OC today, first at 2200, second at 4600 Km and today at 6000 Km i do this once every 6 Months. summer end , Winter start and now I am good for the summer again..
At 2:50, the pin is very visible, and it resides the way you stated. But should the grab side of the pin should be between the two wall risers, to protect it from accidental snagging. (if I understand your question correctly) At 7:15, I see I installed it backwards? lol At least that is how I think it should work? It doesn't make sense the pointy end would be in there, unless there was a chance something could hit the point, and push the pin out? I am not sure it would really make any difference? Good CATCH.
This fella did it the same as me: lol ua-cam.com/video/mO_NjQi1WLE/v-deo.html
How much miles you have on your Kona? My concern is carbon build up on intake valves due to nature of gdi.
Why do you have this concern about carbon build up on intake valves? Who says this happens 'due to nature of gdi" ??? Specifically which automotive company engine has this issue?
Perhaps you are reading articles like this one? www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/chemicals/gdi-engines-carbon-buildup/ My suggestion is not to worry about it. If this was a real problem, you wouldn't be reading about these problems from chemical manufacturers, who like to sell products. Too many GDI engines have clocked over 100,000 miles without a serious carbon buildup issue. Perhaps it is wise not to go too long between oil changes. Just because you are running synthetic oil, does not keep the contaminants out of the oil, which is probably the 'real reason' for carbon buildup on intake valves. Old oil becomes thinner with age, and is more easily sucked past the valve guides and rings. I do a finger rub test on my oil. If oil off the dipstick does not feel slippery when rubbed between fingers, it should be changed.
Floor it it will clean it
I am 78 when I get this Kona N line. How old are you?
LOL Only a few years younger. Just part of the Senior's club.
If you drove with the break in oil, for over 1,200 miles
U did it a bit too late my friend.
Really? How is that? I was building engines and transmissions since 1975. I currently have a 2001 Nissan 3.3 to rebuild, when I get time.
Part number???
It is in the video... look along the track below the vid.
Hey you should spoil yourself to the Kona N 2.0t 😁.. I've ordered one
LOL I could spoil myself with a new Corvette too, because I could easily buy one, but funny thing is, after owning 200 vehicles, from Z28, Tran Am and a hot rod V8 Datsun pickup, the 2022 Kona N-line 1.6t DCT AWD with every option, is more exciting and fun than the Kona N.
@@ThisOldMan-ya472 I’ve been having a blast with mine, it’s like a little go kart.
@@thewalrusmonger9878 A big go-cart. lol
Dangerous. Just use regular filter
What are you suggesting? The Factory Hyundai filter was used. In fact it is the only place to get an oil filter, in Canada.
I think what this idiot is suggesting it to use a spin on filter instead??? Probably drives a car you plug in.
Good God the silver washer is for the drain plug.
You are correct, but I wasn't redoing the video.. lol You didn't have to get God involved. 🙂