Відео

My slow motion is what you are attempting to do, and is a breakdown of what you see pros do. It's not simple to accomplish, especially for a 50 year old man who is trying to go against 45 years of established muscle memory, so my own full speed may not quite be perfect, and it is why I don't have a 450+ Rev rate. But it's what I think through as I try, and those attempts are what lead to an increase from previous Rev rate.

@ I just rolled 4 games trying to copy you in this video. I had about 6 perfect releases/strikes, but I found it pretty challenging to perfect the shot. I’ll keep trying it. Do I need to have my ball redrilled for this shot? I had it drilled against my old shot.

@@StayFrothy90 You shouldn't need to redrill anything. You need to have a good fit, especially in the thumb if you use the thumb, but it really just takes practice. I don't remember the number, but it takes hundreds of reps to establish new muscle memory. As you pointed out, I still struggle to perfect it, so you just gotta keep at it, or tweak things for yourself as you go.

Thanks, same. Great chatting with you. Let me know how the Sarge Easter grip works out.

Thank you.

I understand your point. What I will say to this are a few things. First, just before the 1:00 mark, there is a disclaimer that this method is NOT the standard for throwing a bowling ball. It is simply an alternative to try if someone is struggling with other techniques they have tried. My goal is to provide alternate practice methods that I don't see a lot of videos on, for those who have tried every other video and just can't seem to get it down. Even if they get too much side rotation at first, you can fix this, but it's a good was to get started if the yoyo and other videos have been too complicated. (I will also mention that pro bowler Andrew Anderson ALSO said that a good beginner technique is like spiraling a football :)) Second, yes, you may loft it a bit at first because you practiced throwing a football in the air, but again, if you struggle with rotation of the ball, I'd rather you slightly loft it and get the rotation, and then later work on getting the ball out earlier and down on the lane. It's simply a tool to get you started. I have spent SOOOOO much time in my work office or at home tossing a football in the air to myself, but focusing on the movement of my wrist to create a tight and fast spiral, and this, more than any other drill I have ever done, has had a great impact on my ability to translate to the lanes and improve my overall release. Again, I totally get your point and appreciate the comment, just know that this is a tool to use for those that struggle with other practice methods.

It's okay to laugh. I was laughing on the inside.

Yes, that is another way to look at it. Personally, I have always learned better with angle degrees, but that's just a personal preference. I should reference both that way I got everyone covered. Thanks

A couple things you can try. First, I would try putting the tape deeper in the thumb hole. That way it is tighter further down on your thumb, looser by the base of your thumb. You may need to try it at a few spots. If that doesn't work, have your pro shop do a quick pass inside the thumb with sander, just barely, and then do the tape again. Personally, I have thumb hole big enough that I have about 3 pieces of tape in there. You can then stagger them down the hole so it is more snug deeper.

The release is essentially the same for 1 and 2 handers in terms of hand position and motion. The only real difference is rolling off the thumb vs. rolling off the palm. When they say to keep it straight, do they mean straight vs. cupped, or straight in line with the target, not rotating it around the ball? If it's the first, you don't NEED to cup it, but if you are cupped, you can get more under the ball and use the cupped-to-uncupped motion of the yoyo release to roll the ball off your hand. As for the rotation around the ball, you want some rotation, but not too much. If you are being told to keep it straight, it may be that you are currently rolling over the ball TOO much. You want to stay behind the ball as long as you can. If you have a loaded position, you are a little cupped, but also the wrist is turned in so the fingers are towards your leg (like Blake's hand is when I pause the video). As you uncoil the wrist, your hand will go from directly behind to a little bit of an angle. BEST video of this is this one from CTD that shows Anthony Simonsen. ua-cam.com/video/0gRwZXXHToY/v-deo.html If you pause it at 0:14, you can see how his wrist is a little cupped, and his hand is tilted with his fingers closer to his leg. Go forward 1 second to 0:15, you can see how his wrist is still cupped, but it moves slightly to the side of the ball, creating about a 45-degree angle to his target. As you slowly forward, you will see the wrist uncoil and the ball rolls off his hand. That is what an ideal 2-handed release looks like.

@@baldbrothersbowling It’s straight in terms of my wrist being turned towards my body. I cock my wrist a lot in my setup and keep it that way, i’m doubled jointed, and have way more wrist cock then most bowlers. Is there ever really a point where it’s bad if it’s comfortable? It’s similar to butruff

@@michaelkoch603 Over-cocking your wrist is only bad if you don't uncoil it at the release. Even Butters uncoils at the release and rolls it off his hand. Issues with cupping and cocking your wrist can present 2 things. 1 is it can cause wrist strain and pain, and this is usually because people are trying to curl the ball instead of using your grip, gravity, and proper swing speed to allow you to cup without pain. This doesn't sound like an issue for you, as you said it is comfortable. The other is that if you do NOT uncoil and roll the ball off your hand, and you have it cocked a lot, you end up rolling your hand over the top too much to clear your fingers, and this can cause a spinning motion, decrease in rev rate, or missing your mark. I often say that while there are "textbook" ways of doing everything from steps, pushaway, etc., the MAIN thing you have to accomplish is right at the release. I think if you look at the slow motion videos of Butters for the hyperextended wrist as well as Simo for the 2-handed approach, that motion and that angle of your hand to your target should be what you see there. If you get around the side too much and your palm is facing your body, you are too far around it and need to work on rolling it off your hand more. I hope that all makes sense. I am working on putting together a coaching portal where people can upload videos for us to review. I don't have this yet, but if you want to find Bald Brothers Bowling on Facebook and then send me a DM, I can let you know when that is functioning and I'd be happy to take a look at a video of you, if you want.

This is a tough one. Pitches are something you have to experiment a little bit with. If you have a proper fit, and your pitch is currently 0, you shouldn't be dropping it. If you are, you are likely either not fit snug enough, OR you are just releasing the thumb too early. A reverse pitch does allow the ball to come off quicker, so if you are currently reverse pitch, that may be the issue. But if you are not currently reverse, I would make sure the fit is truly good before adjusting the pitch. Forward pitch can help you hang on a little longer, but generally, I don't think forward is usually the answer. If you are pulling it left, we'd have to look at a video of your swing to diagnose if this is a fit issue or a swing issue. To start, I recommend adding more tape and making sure you are hinging at the base of the thumb. If you do this and it sticks, it is too tight, but you want to be so snug that you are right on the edge of sticking, without hinging at your knuckle. NOTE that hinging at the knuckle can make a thumb stick in the ball, so many people think they have a good fit, but it only fits because they are hinging at the knuckle and squeezing the ball. Once they flatten their thumb, they drop it. You need the thumb to be straight the whole time, and you need it so snug that you can do the things I say in the video. If you are straight and it sticks, you are too tight, but back out the tape 1 piece at a time as you want to be as snug as possible. If the issue is not fit, but that you are releasing early, practice no-step drills, and also put a towel down just past the foul line and work on throwing it over the towel. This is a good way to learn to hold on to it just a little bit longer (again, without bending the thumb at the knuckle). If you do all of this, and it still falls off your hand, THEN you may need to try a forward pitch. If you have an old ball, use that as a tester for changing the pitch with your PSO until it feels right. I hope that helps.

That is a great analysis. One thing I say is that many who feel pain are trying to "curl" the ball to make the cup. They are typically doing two things wrong with that. One is that they may not have a proper fitting thumb, so they squeeze, and create that "curl" motion. They are essentially straining their wrist using muscles to get that shape. The other is that they aren't using gravity and the "weightless" moments, which is similar to what you are talking about. I appreciate you adding your analysis as that's a great way to look at that. Thank you.

@@baldbrothersbowling thank you! I love your content. And I love seeing bowling becoming more popular. Keep up the great work sir, I have learned a lot from you and I appreciate your time with your audience!

Appreciate that

Yes, but here is the problem with calculating initial rev rate only. My camera is set to 24 fps. When you advance his video by frame, in one frame as it leaves his hand, you see his grips on TOP of the ball. 2 frames later, it is slightly short of on top of the ball, but by the 3rd frame, it's well past. This means that 1 revolution off his hand is between 2 and 3 frames. Using the calculation above, 2 frames would be 720 rpm and 3 would be 480. That is a large gap, and I don't know how to calculate a fraction of a frame. So at best, I would have to estimate. 563 (which I calculated using the average rev-rate) is within that gap. If I reverse engineer the formula above, 563 would be 2.55 frames at a 24 fps. Now, I could advance frames until I see the marker (in this case grips) in the exact same spot. When I advance 5 frames, the ball rotated twice and the grips are in the exact same spot. That average 2.5 frames per revolution, so 24/2.5*60=576. This all estimating, and the difference between initial rev rate and average rev rate is negligible. As you said, the highest rev rate is at the end, so if his initial is 576, then I actually underestimated his rev rate as the average would actually be higher than 576, which makes sense because in my review, at 20 revolutions, the ball isn't quite at the pins, but at 21, it's well into them. So his actual revolutions is 20 point something, and if I were to add a fraction of a revolution to my calculation, it would have been higher than 563. But I was trying to estimate, and that is why I named the video 550+ and 563. I knew this wasn't exact and was just an estimate, either way you calculate it. But for most people, the difference between initial rev rate and average is going to be close.

@@baldbrothersbowling Definitely need 60fps for accurate readings. The ideal compromise is to measure the average rev-rate using a polished plastic spare ball with no weightblock. This would eliminate the effects of ball dynamics and lane friction on the measurement, and might be just as accurate as measuring the first revolution off the hand.

That does make it tougher. Your fingers won't exit at the same time, but you can still work on relaxing the fingers and the ball won't roll off the hand as much. They will be closer to the same time. You will likely want to use a plastic ball as it will still rotate a little, but you can cut down the revs by relaxing the fingers, and it should be few enough revs that a plastic ball won't hook much. You just have to really focus on opening your hand and fingers, almost like you are holding a bird, and then opening the fingers to let the bird go. I hope that helps.

My arm is away because my hand is outside the ball. Arm has to be outside to make room for the ball. This video was about a year and a half ago, and while I am far from perfect, that is something I have been working on. I just did a video a few weeks ago showing the difference, and it is a lot closer. I sometimes fall back into that habit as it is a 44 year muscle memory I am trying to replace, but getting there. Thanks for watching. Not too many go back and watch the older ones. I appreciate that.

Exactly. If you are married, just show this to your spouse and say that we said it's important to bowl MORE to improve. :)

This is something we are working on developing. I do in-person, but we need to work out logistics of setting up something that can be done virtually and thru use of loading videos. If you want to find us on Facebook, Bald Brothers Bowling, and then send me a DM, I can put you on a list to reach out when that is set up. If you are in Omaha by chance, yes, we can do in person 1-on-1.

If you look at the 5:00 mark where I freeze and flip the frame back and forth, you can see the position of his hand. The 3 things that impact your ball are 1.) axis tilt, 2.) angle of rotation, and 3.) rev rate. All these are mostly impacted at this moment which is why we focus so much on this part specifically. What you are looking for here are the position of the fingers to the center of the ball, and angle of the fingers to thumb at release. The first thing everyone should want to try to get is fingers under the equator (the imaginary horizontal line cutting the ball in half). In the 2 frames I show, you'll see in the first frame, he's a little under, but by the 2nd frame, he is well below the equator. Next, you will see that his fingers are on the inside of the ball in the first frame (if you draw an imaginary VERTICAL line, he'd be on the left side of the ball). As he uncoils his wrist, it slightly rotates so that it goes from inside to more in the center. This along with rolling the ball off the thumb first helps get the revs. Next, you will see that the angle of his fingers to his thumb is not straight up and down, but angled. That is extremely angled in the first frame as he is in the loaded position (wrist cocked inward) and less so, but still there in the 2nd. Because his fingers are about in the center (left to right) of the ball in frame 2, but his thumb is outside, this creates both his angle of rotate and tilt. Basically his palm is pointing probably 30 degrees to the left, not straight down the lane. Comparing Blake to me, he is more loaded and has his fingers farther inside the ball at frame 1. His frame 2 looks more like what my frame 1 would look like. He uncoils more than me which is why he can generate so many more revs. My frame 2 I am more outside the ball than he is. This makes my palm probably closer to 40 degrees to the left. He is a little bit more up the back than I am. This is also because for me, my finger to thumb angle is a little bit more up and down, his is more angled. That said, we can both manipulate our shots a little. He CAN come around it more, meaning his fingers will be farther outside in frame 2 than currently, pointing his palm at a greater angle, but when he does this, he has so much angle that it hooks uncontrollably given his rev rate. He can come up the back more or less and increase or decrease tilt by changing the location of his fingers and that angle of his fingers to thumb a little at the release point. If wants to come up the back more, his fingers will stay slightly more inside the ball in frame 2, or more around it, he will come a little to the outside of the ball. He can decrease tilt by loading less and getting the finger to thumb angle less, or get more tilt by keep that angle a little greater in frame 2. I can also come up the back more by keep my hand more behind it like he does. I struggle creating that much angle between my fingers and thumb, so when I come up the back more, it has less tilt than he has. I can load more like he does, and my ball roll is closer to his, but I can't uncoil as fast as he does which lowers my revs, and I can't generate his speed, so when I load more, my ball speed is too slow. I know that is a lot of info to read, but hopefully that answers your question and makes sense. It's hard to do, which is why you have to practice over and over.

@@baldbrothersbowling thanks brother.

Thanks

Thanks

I agree, this is an art, and Blake has it down! Thanks for watching.

This is where I hope I can make you proud, 14 and learning a strong hook, wish me luck!

@@caprisun1216 go get it!!!

Technically any movement requires SOME muscle. However, when we refer to "muscling" in bowling, it's really about forcing a movement. Gravity plays a big roll in bowling, and we want to use gravity, but sometimes people will pull the ball up into a backswing, or hold it in the pushaway too long fighting against gravity, or even pulling it back down faster than what gravity is allowing. But when the ball moves from the peak to the release, gravity is pulling it downward, and if your armswing is moving at a pace similar to the ball dropping, the ball is virtually weightless. During this time, you can manipulate your wrist and get a slight elbow bend without much effort from your muscles. If the speed of your downswing is too fast or slow, bending the elbow will require muscling the ball. You also have to consider that the elbow bend he shows is very slight. Some people overdo it, which that will impact your throw because you are essentially muscling it to get THAT much bend. But an ever so slight bend is all you really need.

Short answer 'yes'. The ball is pulling down ward so pulling your arm straight. However as coach Bald suggests, it's about moving in such a way as to minimize the 'muscling'. So, to create the bend at the elbow the shoulder is dropped slightly and then just as the ball is dropping into that new lower level it it released. Maybe try getting a cheap and light ball fitted to learn or ignore me coz I'm a 2 hander with 500 rpm and no art lol

if you let the ball drop inward with the elbow close to the hip without pulling down and with your shoulder and body in the correct alignment this will happen naturally.

@@baldbrothersbowling thank you all for the response. Another question. I bought a wrist device because I was told that it would teach the feel of a firm wrist position. I have massive issues with getting out of my ball and when I put this wrist device on my thumb clears so fast that I nearly drop the ball during my swing. Does anyone know why a wrist device like a Robby rev one get my thumb out so fast?

@@tymarmaras Great questions. First, I would disagree about using a wrist brace to gain "feel" of a firm wrist as a starting point. While it does hold you firm, it actually removes some of the feel for me. I like wrist braces really only if there is an injury that requires it, or as a last resort if you struggle with other methods. The fact that you exit the thumb so quickly, you may have too loose of a thumb hole (which is my guess), and because of your wrist position now, maybe you aren't squeezing like you used to and it is exposing fact that the thumb doesn't fit right. My recommendation, even before really using a wrist brace, is to watch my video on the importance of right thumb fit. In that video, I explain how you can make sure the ball is super snug on your thumb, but you don't hinge at the middle knuckle. You hinge at the base of the thumb, keeping the thumb straight. If you do with with a tight thumb hole, you will hold on to the ball really well until you decide to release pressure. With a straight thumb, it won't stick. If you bend your thumb, it will stick. Getting a tight thumb hole and training to use your thumb this way also makes it easier to flatten your wrist more by pulling back with the thumb (not curling the ball like a dumbbell). I also address this in that video. If you get a tight thumb, hinge properly, and pull back to straighten or even cup the wrist a little, it will feel much light and be easier to do. Swing it back and forth to get a feel for having a straight wrist thru your swing. If you can do that, move on to swinging back and forth with no step drill, and then practice releasing pressure on the thumb only and rolling the ball off your hand. This can all be done with a proper fitted thumb and some practice, without the need for the brace.

Lol.

Yeah you are down to a measly 500 now? Lol.

It is hardest to take the foul line drill and keep it all going with steps. It takes time. Start with no step, move into 1 step, then 3 step, and work your way into it. Also, make sure once you add steps, you don't focus on steps, push away, your mark, or anything. Just concentrate on what you need your hand to do from the time you hit the peak of the backswing to the release. Focusing on other things makes it hard, so if it goes in the gutter, or you pull it bad, that's okay in practice. It's about feeling what your hand does, the angle and tilt of the ball, and the revs.

@baldbrothersbowling you are the best. Thank you so much for all the tips and videos to help bowlers. I appreciate your channel.

Thanks

Thank you.

My pleasure. Good luck!

I borrowed that from a friend, but he ordered online. You can get those on bowling.com or bowlerx.com.

@@baldbrothersbowlingthank you , are you able to post a link . I’m still having problems finding the brace

@@berwickmortgagebroker www.bowlerx.com/storm-c4-wrist-brace-stormc4/?attribute_pa_hand=left-handed&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwjsi4BhB5EiwAFAL0YJMe3pHNLEsH2VJIgeT61wxY63qEp8BQDMXy07woYfvgJ1wS0nBYsBoCo94QAvD_BwE

@@baldbrothersbowling thank you so much 👍

Thank you

We appreciate that! Thank you for subscribing.

This is a multi-step process to ensure it is right. It's like Goldilocks. You first need to make sure it's not too tight, then not too loose, then just right. Step 1 is at the 3:50 mark in the video. With the ball set down and thumb hole facing up, take your thumb, NOT bent at the knuckle, but straight, and move in and out of the ball. If it sticks, it's too tight. Most have too loose of a thumb, but we want to make sure it's not too tight first. If you can move in and out without putting any pressure against the ball, then it's not too tight. Step 2 is to make sure it's not too loose. Starting at about 4:10, you want to insert your thumb but NOT fingers, lay your palm on the ball, and MOST IMPORTANT, hinge at the base of the thumb, NOT the knuckle. Put pressure of the base of your thumb against the inside wall of the thumb hole, and try to lift the ball WITHOUT bending your thumb at the knuckle. If it feels like it's sliding off, or your need to bend the knuckle to lift it, it is too loose. Add tape until you can EASILY lift the ball with minimal pressure hinging at the base. When you add tape, go back to step 1 and make sure it's not too tight. Keep alternating steps 1 and 2 by adding or removing tape until you can do BOTH. You need it NOT too tight so you don't get stuck, but NOT too loose to where you feel you need to bend the thumb to grab it with your fingers not in the ball. Once you can manage both, you should have the right feel. It is essentially to the point where 1 more piece of tape would be too tight. The last part of all this is that you have to make sure you maintain a straight thumb that is only hinged at the base throughout your swing. With it extra tight (as you noted) it will feel lighter and easier to hold. You'll feel pressure on the thumb only and your fingers aren't really doing any work. As you swing it forward to release point, all you have to do release the thumb and it will slide off the thumb, while keeping your fingers in the ball. The ball should ROLL off your hand, thumb first, fingers last. I hope this all helps. Follow the video pretty closely, but it's basically as tight as you can get it without it sticking with a straight thumb (NOTE: if you have proper fit, but you bend your thumb during the throw, there is a good chance it may stick in the ball, so getting stuck may not mean the thumb is too tight, it may mean you are bending the thumb inside the ball. You want to maintain that straight thumb, hinged at the base only).

@@baldbrothersbowling thank you very much for this response.

Yeah, it was a tough shot, and no re-oil before match play, so the lanes guy tough for everyone the last few matches.

Yeah, it was actually kinda quiet, but sounded louder on my camera mic, but it was good stuff.

I watched them back in slow motion. I abandoned what I was working on in about frame 3 of game 2, and my hand was doing the old "outside on takeaway, get behind at the peak, come back around a little." It looked the same to me in most frames after that, but what I saw was I lost a little balance on the 8 pin frame 7 and came around it a little, next frame it just hit a hook spot that Blake saw earlier and that was my first encounter hitting that, and I got hung up in the ball a little a pulled it frame 9. I moved left and got inside the hook spot frame 10. At least that is what I saw.

@@baldbrothersbowling Like I said, I was probably seeing things that weren't quite there.

@@bhartissimo hey, I appreciate the comment. Those make me go back and watch and analyze, and it really helps me. Thanks for watching and for throwing that out there.

Most know THAT it increases revs, but not how it is done. Yes, many do, but many do not. This video is for those that do not. As for how to do it with a heavy ball, my video on the importance of the thumb fit explains how a thumb should fit, how to pull back to cup the wrist instead of curling it, and how that can make the ball feel lighter. Hope that helps.

I can absolutely do a video on that with him.

@@baldbrothersbowling You are the man!!! I see you kind of gave up on the changes you were working on. The same thing happens to me. When I get into a competitive situation. The changes I was working on usually go out the window. If I stick to one change at a time I've had more luck sticking with it.

@@scotthoward6070 yeah, I will keep working on them in practice. I still want to hit my heel first on the second to last step, but I may need to try slightly later timing vs. higher push away. Always trying to find something a little better.

Ditto

Thanks

for a low backswing, perfect timing, smooth swing, check out Deeron Booker.

The idea is to remove the ball of the foot, largely because in my old approach, I would sometimes be too far forward, causing balance issues at the line. Additionally, I have arthritis in my right big toe from breaking it in college, so I want to keep off of it. My old approach the 3rd was also small. I was long, long, short, short slide also. Elongating the 4th isn't making the 3rd shorter, it was always short. With the longer 4th step, instead of shortening another step, it is actually taking me a little longer to get to the line, which is why my first full step shot was in the gutter. My feet were late. That is why I brought the ball up in my stance. It lengthens the swing time and adds height to the backswing, which puts me back in time. I may shorten the 4th a little later, but I have to first get used to how it feels to land on the heel first.

@@baldbrothersbowling ahhhh. that makes a lot of sense! For me, making my backswing longer / higher only forces me to pull down on it harder to get me back into the timing I'm used to. I can never seem to use that tool to change anything LOL

What about dropping the ball a little bit later? Does that sound more or less difficult as a way to make your timing a bit later to adjust to the foot change?

@@gc3- ​Dropping it later is one tactic that I had in my back pocket IF starting higher didn't work. I wanted to start higher because I was hoping for a little higher back swing.

Thanks. Our FB page is also Bald Brothers Bowling.

Appreciate that.