Greetings from the UK - thanks for this video. I have a 2019 A4 40 TDI and I had no idea this was so simple. The only small additional step on the TDI is that the coolant expansion tank needs to be moved slightly to allow access to the oil filter. I’ll be changing the oil myself from now on!
That is really cool to hear! Thanks for sharing that. When you do the oil change, snap some pictures and send to me. My email is in my description. I can do a community post and share the specs and differences for the TDI. Really appreciate your support and so glad my video was helpful.
I bought a 2020 A5 (2.0) last year and love the extraction method. I do my own oil changes every 5k miles and save a bunch of time and money. It takes me less than 20 minutes total, and costs about $55 for oil and filter. Getting the Euro spec 0W-30 is challenging, but not impossible.
Amazing! I love the A5 and in an alternate universe I would have the sportback. I imagine the steps are virtually the same between the my A4 and your A5? Thanks again for taking the time to watch and comment.
@@mr4rings_ that's the OEM specification for my car. The sticker under the hood calls for it. SAE 0W-30 & VW 504.00 I live in the Pacific Northwest, which is relatively temperate. It sometimes gets below freezing in the dead of winter, so 5W-30 would probably be fine. I'm also one that generally tries to stick to the manufacturer specs whenever possible.
@@mr4rings_ The video uses 5w-30, not 0w-30. 5w-40 is also acceptable. Both are listed in the manual. You can go thicker if you like to drive your car harder or if it is higher mileage. Hope this helps.
Awesome! I am so glad the video was helpful. Thank you for reassuring me that it was worth the time to film both methods just for the sake of one video. Bleeding the brakes on the A4 is the next video I'm filming.
@@MetaloopDIY oh that would be perfect I have to do mine soon. I did my front rotors and pads and skipped bleeding the brakes but there really spongy I definitely wanna take care of of that soon. Could you try to get a video of doing the trans fluid change to? That’s also my next project 😂
@@MetaloopDIY hey man any chance you can do that trans fluid video? Lol I gotta do mine but I’d like to watch a detailed video rather then reading forums lol
@@mr4rings_ Hey brother, how many miles are on your car? While I don't agree with "lifetime" fluids, I also don't think transmission fluid needs to be changed that often-unless you're doing heavy duty things like racing the car.
Glad you brought it up and hope others see this so they can find it if they want one. I know they exist but I personally haven't found a reason to buy one. The car (so far) doesn't seem to leak or burn oil and I put so little miles on the car that I just end up changing the oil on an annual interval. I have my extraction container marked for the capacity of the car and I use that to double check that the car has the same oil that went in. For sure I'd have one if I were tuning the car or driving it to its full potential. Thank you again for the comment!
Nice video - really good explanation. The vacuum extraction seems to be pretty easy and efficient for normal oil changes. But will it be sufficient if you use some "Engine flush" product? They mostly mention "drain system completely".
Glad you liked the video. For oil flushes, they work but I don't see the point. Changing your oil on a faster interval is likely just as beneficial. But maybe on an older car to flush it once every 100k miles or something. Thanks again for your time watching and commenting!
I've been looking at engine flush treatments too but they seem to be beneficial to really dirty engines only. And even then you need to put in at least one batch of sacrificial flushing oil before the final drive oil. Premium synthetic oils have additives that have the same funtion as engine flush products. Just the consentration is not the same. If you change motor oil more frequently because of an easier method I'm sure the engine will be much better of.
@@samiramo7252 @MetaloopDIY When you know the history and do proper maintenance it's better to just change the oil more often. But when I bought the second hand I wanted to do an engine flush even when on low mileage just to be sure. Then continue with 10k km oil change interval. But cause complexity I just stuck with oil changes for now :)
You are the second person to leave a comment about this. I find it interesting but it seems backward at least on our A4. The drain plug is on the back of the oil pan, so if you lift the back of the car up, you are tiling the drain higher than the rest of the oil pan. It would make more sense to lift the left side of the car up to pool the oil toward the drain outlet.
Great video! I change myself the oil today and it seems it's sets every 10,000 miles, is there a way to adjust it to a desire milenage? On your video once you reset it appears next to be at 10k
There's no way to change in from the screen but some ways to change it with high end scan tools. But honestly it's a good reminder either way. My rule of thumb is at least once a year regardless of miles or 5000 miles. But I drive a lot more city miles than highway. If you drive a lot of highway miles, 10000 is actually reasonable. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@MetaloopDIY I think you should not reset the oil service counter at all. I would use the service counter for more thorough check and service and just change the oil in between.
@@samiramo7252 Good tip, makes total sense. Since the counter is every year or 10k miles, I'm just resetting it halfway every time. Using it as a gauge to do a more thorough check is a great idea.
Definitely do it! Both methods have their pros and cons. I like how the traditional way gives you the chance to visually inspect things under the car. I probably should have said that in the video. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Good thought! The drain plug hole is on the back of the pan and points toward the passenger, so lifting just the drivers front would maybe give you the best draining angle. Definitely the front being higher will be better than the rear though.
@@MetaloopDIYbut I mean to extracting as much as you can with the pump, so the drain plug location doesn’t matter is it? I suppose that the pump tube enter in the front of the deposit, so lifting the rear could help. I read it somewhere and it makes sense.
@@sagutxo82 I see what your saying and sure, maybe it does get a little more oil! It's worth trying. Let me know how it goes for you. Just a reminder that the whole point of the video is that since extraction is so much faster, that extra bit of oil may not be worth trying to get out by either the drain pan or even strategically leveling the car with a jack/ramps.
I almost didn't believe you but I looked it up and it is true! Probably the best reason to get a Q3, well, besides the fact that we can't get an A3 hatch in the US anymore. Thanks so much for sharing that tidbit.
on the driver side, did you bend over the lift point pinch weld at all? the jack is supposed to move to keep the jack point centered. looks like it's sliding.
Hi, appreciate the observation. I just took a look at the car just to confirm and the pinch weld is not bent. I think the main issue is the way I edited the clip for timing, its missing the back half. I see around 3:41 that the jack is starting to move once the car gets high enough, but then I immediately cut to the next step. Thank you for the comment though (and for actually watching the video with that level of detail!), it's good feedback to make sure I don't edit in a way that causes confusion in the future. 🙏
Great informative video once more 👍Here is my two (2) questions. Firstly won't the small amount left during extraction method contaminate the new oil and render it less effective? Secondly can i do extraction to my 2013 A4 non quattro? Your feedback is always appreciated 🙏
Hi, thanks for the questions. So whenever you do an oil change, it's physically impossible to remove all the oil anyway. The oil is coating everything and a meaningful amount of oil stays within the block and head. Even if you let the oil settle out the engine for multiple days before doing an oil change, you will still have some amount remaining in the engine that gravity won't get out. In some car manuals it will even specify a dry fill or total oil capacity vs an oil service capacity. It's usually about 1 quart more. So my argument in the video is that another 4-5 oz when 1 quart remains in the engine is not that big of a deal. The goal of an oil change is to put in more new clean oil than what remains. As for your second question, I believe the the B8's 2.0T engine is basically the same engine. You may want to double check the oil specs and capacity though. For me, if I see an Audi with an oil filter up top, I generally would assume I could use an extractor on it. I hope this was helpful and good luck!
Hi Soso, I don't have access to one of those vehicles so I don't want you lead you down a path with information that isn't well researched. Thank you for taking the time to comment and ask a question. I'm sorry I can't be more helpful. Best of luck!
Curious if you think I explained it poorly in the video. I spent a lot of time editing and doing voiceover to explain the reason. Please let me know what I missed that confused you. In summary, I suction the oil out to show how much is left in the drain pan. You can ignore the extractor part if you just want the steps for the drain pan, but my point is it's not worth the time to drain. Using an extractor is faster and just as good as draining.
I appreciate the response. I'm genuinely trying to get feedback and understand and I can do better. Thanks again for taking the time to watch and comment!
Dealers use the extraction method because it saves them time and money. There's no other good reason. Jacking up the car is a lot of work but forget buying an extractor. Use the money you saved and get yourself some ramps. Getting under the car for an oil change allows you to inspect the underside for leaks or other problems. Ramps are safer than jacking up the car.
I don't disagree with anything you said and genuinely appreciate you taking the time to comment and make your points. I also have ramps but intentionally used jack/stands in the video as a reason to point out jack points--and exaggerate how long it takes for the theme of the video. Thanks again for watching!
@@MetaloopDIY I did appreciate your video, it's interesting how little old oil was left behind after extraction. I prefer to do a complete drain but a small amount of old oil is not that significant. If using an extractor motivates someone to change their oil more often, then it's worth it. I stick to 5k mile oil changes vs. the 10k typically recommended. Also, using the correct oil as well as top tier fuel is very important for these GDI turbo engines.
An Audi is no different than any other engine in changing the oil. Just drain through plug. That’s why it is there. It really doesn’t take much more effort. Just jack the driver side as the plug is on the passenger side of the pan
@@davidmintmier6040 I can change the oil in like 7 minutes with an extractor like in this video. ua-cam.com/video/uJYSZX6Choc/v-deo.html It took me in this video 15 minutes just to remove the underbody panel.
Unfortunately you have not used the extraction correctly as when I tried this same science experiment I have had zero oil left in my sump, that’s because I used physics in my experiment lol.
Bro did you really torque a plastic bolt? 🤦🏻♂️. Always do the oil change from the bottom if you can. If you cant then use that extractor. But I always do it from the bottom. Also the warm up is not need it! Im trying to get All the dirty oil from the engine, so putting oil back in the top when you are getting it out is just dumb.
Respectfully disagree. This video taught me that the trade off in time for doing an oil change the traditional way is not worth it. Warming up the oil also suspends contaminants more completely. Warm oil also settles back to the pan faster since it's less viscous. All your cold oil settled when the oil was hot. I'm pretty confident that if I waited another 15 min before extracting that little bit of oil that settled before draining would not have been there. And either way, you can never fully drain the oil out of an engine, that's why most manuals have a service fill vs dry fill specification that is about a quart more. But the best part about working on your own car is getting to do what you think is right, so you do you! Thank you for the comment.
Warm up not needed?!? Have you ever tied to drain oil in -20C temperatures? I will take several hours to drain it all. The warmer the oil is the faster and more completely it drains.
2 services ago main dealer jag never changed oil it was still dark,took to independent jag specialist oil was changed it was new so first dealer never changed it thats proof.but second independent garage left it a litre below minimum i had to put 2 litre in to get it half way between min and max.iv bought the syphon and doing myself with exact oil 🛢
Sorry to hear you had a terrible experience and a bit of bad luck with trusting shops. I'm happy that it sounds like my video might be inspiring you to avoid the concern entirely. Let me know how it goes! Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your story.
such a shame that they even made the oilpan out of plastic these days. That will not last 20 years. But beside that, good video, I suck my oil from v8 RS5 the exact same way. I have a little more work, first i have to disassemble the left airfilter before i can access little plug, where the tube can be inserted. otherwise it's fairly the same. you know what they say, if the oilfilter is on top you suck it out, if it's under the car you drain it.
Great to hear your experiences with the RS5 (very jealous!). I'd extract just to never have to remove that underbody panel again, but yes, totally agree that Audi made it an easy decision to just extract when the oil filter is up top. Thank you again for taking the time to watch and comment.
For 2017's you can use 5w-40 too as long as the oil meets VW 502.00 standards. Generally you want to the thinnest oil you can get away with, so unless you live in a hot climate or track your car, you can consider 5w-30. Or just get whatever is cheaper!
@@MetaloopDIY Using cheap oil is to play russian rulette with the Audi engines. The way pistons are designed in the cars is really picky about the oil you should use. But yes, cold start viscosity is dependent on the climate of your area. Hot viscosity dependent on the wear of piston rings.
@@samiramo7252 For sure, I didn't mean cheaper oil, I meant cheaper between 5w-40 or 5w-30, sometimes both meet VW 502.00 standards, but one is easier to find and potentially less expensive. Really depends on one's area and what specialty stores are near them.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Greetings from the UK - thanks for this video. I have a 2019 A4 40 TDI and I had no idea this was so simple. The only small additional step on the TDI is that the coolant expansion tank needs to be moved slightly to allow access to the oil filter. I’ll be changing the oil myself from now on!
That is really cool to hear! Thanks for sharing that. When you do the oil change, snap some pictures and send to me. My email is in my description. I can do a community post and share the specs and differences for the TDI. Really appreciate your support and so glad my video was helpful.
I bought a 2020 A5 (2.0) last year and love the extraction method. I do my own oil changes every 5k miles and save a bunch of time and money. It takes me less than 20 minutes total, and costs about $55 for oil and filter. Getting the Euro spec 0W-30 is challenging, but not impossible.
Amazing! I love the A5 and in an alternate universe I would have the sportback. I imagine the steps are virtually the same between the my A4 and your A5? Thanks again for taking the time to watch and comment.
Just curious but why do you run 0w-30? I heard for the EA888 Engines take 5w-40?
@@mr4rings_ that's the OEM specification for my car. The sticker under the hood calls for it. SAE 0W-30 & VW 504.00
I live in the Pacific Northwest, which is relatively temperate. It sometimes gets below freezing in the dead of winter, so 5W-30 would probably be fine. I'm also one that generally tries to stick to the manufacturer specs whenever possible.
@@mr4rings_ The video uses 5w-30, not 0w-30. 5w-40 is also acceptable. Both are listed in the manual. You can go thicker if you like to drive your car harder or if it is higher mileage. Hope this helps.
THANK YOU MAN!! Didn’t have extra money for the extractor but the tutorial for the drain method was perfect! Subscribed!
Awesome! I am so glad the video was helpful. Thank you for reassuring me that it was worth the time to film both methods just for the sake of one video. Bleeding the brakes on the A4 is the next video I'm filming.
@@MetaloopDIY oh that would be perfect I have to do mine soon. I did my front rotors and pads and skipped bleeding the brakes but there really spongy I definitely wanna take care of of that soon. Could you try to get a video of doing the trans fluid change to? That’s also my next project 😂
@@mr4rings_ Great suggestion, I'll add trans fluid to the queue.
@@MetaloopDIY hey man any chance you can do that trans fluid video? Lol I gotta do mine but I’d like to watch a detailed video rather then reading forums lol
@@mr4rings_ Hey brother, how many miles are on your car? While I don't agree with "lifetime" fluids, I also don't think transmission fluid needs to be changed that often-unless you're doing heavy duty things like racing the car.
I prefer the drain method. It allows me to inspect the suspension and engine for problems.
Yes, it's hard to argue with that reasoning. Appreciate you taking the time to watch and share!
Excellent tutorial, and thorough
Appreciate the kind words! Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment.
thank you it was helpful.
So glad the video was helpful. Thanks so much for your comment and likes, it really helps the channel!
You can purchase an aftermarket dipstick like I did on my Audi A6 C8.
Glad you brought it up and hope others see this so they can find it if they want one. I know they exist but I personally haven't found a reason to buy one. The car (so far) doesn't seem to leak or burn oil and I put so little miles on the car that I just end up changing the oil on an annual interval. I have my extraction container marked for the capacity of the car and I use that to double check that the car has the same oil that went in. For sure I'd have one if I were tuning the car or driving it to its full potential. Thank you again for the comment!
I was able to use a quarter to remove my oil drain plug
Nice! Good to know and I can see how that would work perfectly. Thank you for sharing.
Nice video - really good explanation.
The vacuum extraction seems to be pretty easy and efficient for normal oil changes. But will it be sufficient if you use some "Engine flush" product? They mostly mention "drain system completely".
Glad you liked the video. For oil flushes, they work but I don't see the point. Changing your oil on a faster interval is likely just as beneficial. But maybe on an older car to flush it once every 100k miles or something. Thanks again for your time watching and commenting!
I've been looking at engine flush treatments too but they seem to be beneficial to really dirty engines only. And even then you need to put in at least one batch of sacrificial flushing oil before the final drive oil. Premium synthetic oils have additives that have the same funtion as engine flush products. Just the consentration is not the same. If you change motor oil more frequently because of an easier method I'm sure the engine will be much better of.
@@samiramo7252 @MetaloopDIY When you know the history and do proper maintenance it's better to just change the oil more often. But when I bought the second hand I wanted to do an engine flush even when on low mileage just to be sure. Then continue with 10k km oil change interval. But cause complexity I just stuck with oil changes for now :)
I have the same car and use two plastic ramps that I back the back of car up on. That makes sure it all drains to the front of the engine.
You are the second person to leave a comment about this. I find it interesting but it seems backward at least on our A4. The drain plug is on the back of the oil pan, so if you lift the back of the car up, you are tiling the drain higher than the rest of the oil pan. It would make more sense to lift the left side of the car up to pool the oil toward the drain outlet.
Great video! I change myself the oil today and it seems it's sets every 10,000 miles, is there a way to adjust it to a desire milenage? On your video once you reset it appears next to be at 10k
There's no way to change in from the screen but some ways to change it with high end scan tools. But honestly it's a good reminder either way. My rule of thumb is at least once a year regardless of miles or 5000 miles. But I drive a lot more city miles than highway. If you drive a lot of highway miles, 10000 is actually reasonable. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@MetaloopDIY I think you should not reset the oil service counter at all. I would use the service counter for more thorough check and service and just change the oil in between.
@@samiramo7252 Good tip, makes total sense. Since the counter is every year or 10k miles, I'm just resetting it halfway every time. Using it as a gauge to do a more thorough check is a great idea.
I wanted to do an oil change today 😅
Definitely do it! Both methods have their pros and cons. I like how the traditional way gives you the chance to visually inspect things under the car. I probably should have said that in the video. Thanks for watching and commenting!
If you use a ramp to lift the rear wheels, it would extract more oil with the extractor?
Good thought! The drain plug hole is on the back of the pan and points toward the passenger, so lifting just the drivers front would maybe give you the best draining angle. Definitely the front being higher will be better than the rear though.
@@MetaloopDIYbut I mean to extracting as much as you can with the pump, so the drain plug location doesn’t matter is it? I suppose that the pump tube enter in the front of the deposit, so lifting the rear could help. I read it somewhere and it makes sense.
@@sagutxo82 I see what your saying and sure, maybe it does get a little more oil! It's worth trying. Let me know how it goes for you. Just a reminder that the whole point of the video is that since extraction is so much faster, that extra bit of oil may not be worth trying to get out by either the drain pan or even strategically leveling the car with a jack/ramps.
That would depend on wich corner of the oil pan the measure stick tube reaches...?
Nice video. However. Modern Audi's do have a oil stick. My MJ 2019 Q3 45 (2.0) TFSI has one as this model has no digital oil level gauge.
I almost didn't believe you but I looked it up and it is true! Probably the best reason to get a Q3, well, besides the fact that we can't get an A3 hatch in the US anymore. Thanks so much for sharing that tidbit.
on the driver side, did you bend over the lift point pinch weld at all? the jack is supposed to move to keep the jack point centered. looks like it's sliding.
Hi, appreciate the observation. I just took a look at the car just to confirm and the pinch weld is not bent. I think the main issue is the way I edited the clip for timing, its missing the back half. I see around 3:41 that the jack is starting to move once the car gets high enough, but then I immediately cut to the next step. Thank you for the comment though (and for actually watching the video with that level of detail!), it's good feedback to make sure I don't edit in a way that causes confusion in the future. 🙏
Great informative video once more 👍Here is my two (2) questions. Firstly won't the small amount left during extraction method contaminate the new oil and render it less effective?
Secondly can i do extraction to my 2013 A4 non quattro?
Your feedback is always appreciated 🙏
Hi, thanks for the questions. So whenever you do an oil change, it's physically impossible to remove all the oil anyway. The oil is coating everything and a meaningful amount of oil stays within the block and head. Even if you let the oil settle out the engine for multiple days before doing an oil change, you will still have some amount remaining in the engine that gravity won't get out. In some car manuals it will even specify a dry fill or total oil capacity vs an oil service capacity. It's usually about 1 quart more. So my argument in the video is that another 4-5 oz when 1 quart remains in the engine is not that big of a deal. The goal of an oil change is to put in more new clean oil than what remains.
As for your second question, I believe the the B8's 2.0T engine is basically the same engine. You may want to double check the oil specs and capacity though. For me, if I see an Audi with an oil filter up top, I generally would assume I could use an extractor on it. I hope this was helpful and good luck!
@@MetaloopDIY 💪Thanks, that was very much helpful, from now onwards I won't worry about the remaining small amount of oil as I consider both methods 👍
Hello.
I'm studying automobiles in Korea
I'm a student. How do I replace the 22-year-old Audi a6 Michonne oil?
Hi Soso, I don't have access to one of those vehicles so I don't want you lead you down a path with information that isn't well researched. Thank you for taking the time to comment and ask a question. I'm sorry I can't be more helpful. Best of luck!
Why do we have to suction the oil out if you can drain it from the bottom?
Curious if you think I explained it poorly in the video. I spent a lot of time editing and doing voiceover to explain the reason. Please let me know what I missed that confused you. In summary, I suction the oil out to show how much is left in the drain pan. You can ignore the extractor part if you just want the steps for the drain pan, but my point is it's not worth the time to drain. Using an extractor is faster and just as good as draining.
@@MetaloopDIY no, I just have a short attention span. Your video was good, but I get distracted easily is all. Thank you
I appreciate the response. I'm genuinely trying to get feedback and understand and I can do better. Thanks again for taking the time to watch and comment!
Dealers use the extraction method because it saves them time and money. There's no other good reason. Jacking up the car is a lot of work but forget buying an extractor. Use the money you saved and get yourself some ramps. Getting under the car for an oil change allows you to inspect the underside for leaks or other problems. Ramps are safer than jacking up the car.
I don't disagree with anything you said and genuinely appreciate you taking the time to comment and make your points. I also have ramps but intentionally used jack/stands in the video as a reason to point out jack points--and exaggerate how long it takes for the theme of the video. Thanks again for watching!
@@MetaloopDIY I did appreciate your video, it's interesting how little old oil was left behind after extraction. I prefer to do a complete drain but a small amount of old oil is not that significant. If using an extractor motivates someone to change their oil more often, then it's worth it. I stick to 5k mile oil changes vs. the 10k typically recommended. Also, using the correct oil as well as top tier fuel is very important for these GDI turbo engines.
An Audi is no different than any other engine in changing the oil. Just drain through plug. That’s why it is there. It really doesn’t take much more effort. Just jack the driver side as the plug is on the passenger side of the pan
@@davidmintmier6040 I can change the oil in like 7 minutes with an extractor like in this video. ua-cam.com/video/uJYSZX6Choc/v-deo.html
It took me in this video 15 minutes just to remove the underbody panel.
The extraction works perfectly if done correctly lol is not a simple as shown in this video as his done it all wrong lol
You mean the right way.
What other way would you do it?
I spent a good amount of time making this whole video explaining the two methods. I encourage you to watch it. 👍
Bought an electric oil extractor, much faster than the hand pump method and a lot cheaper.
Very cool, I don't know anything about them. Did you buy a particular brand and recommend it?
@@MetaloopDIY check how I did it with my PROXXON AP 12 electric pump ua-cam.com/video/9_TJOIk4PrI/v-deo.html
Unfortunately you have not used the extraction correctly as when I tried this same science experiment I have had zero oil left in my sump, that’s because I used physics in my experiment lol.
I'd love to know what you did but your comment just reinforces my point that extraction is just as good as the traditional way of changing oil. 👍
Bro did you really torque a plastic bolt? 🤦🏻♂️. Always do the oil change from the bottom if you can. If you cant then use that extractor. But I always do it from the bottom. Also the warm up is not need it! Im trying to get All the dirty oil from the engine, so putting oil back in the top when you are getting it out is just dumb.
Respectfully disagree. This video taught me that the trade off in time for doing an oil change the traditional way is not worth it. Warming up the oil also suspends contaminants more completely. Warm oil also settles back to the pan faster since it's less viscous. All your cold oil settled when the oil was hot. I'm pretty confident that if I waited another 15 min before extracting that little bit of oil that settled before draining would not have been there. And either way, you can never fully drain the oil out of an engine, that's why most manuals have a service fill vs dry fill specification that is about a quart more. But the best part about working on your own car is getting to do what you think is right, so you do you! Thank you for the comment.
Warm up not needed?!? Have you ever tied to drain oil in -20C temperatures? I will take several hours to drain it all. The warmer the oil is the faster and more completely it drains.
2 services ago main dealer jag never changed oil it was still dark,took to independent jag specialist oil was changed it was new so first dealer never changed it thats proof.but second independent garage left it a litre below minimum i had to put 2 litre in to get it half way between min and max.iv bought the syphon and doing myself with exact oil 🛢
Sorry to hear you had a terrible experience and a bit of bad luck with trusting shops. I'm happy that it sounds like my video might be inspiring you to avoid the concern entirely. Let me know how it goes! Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your story.
such a shame that they even made the oilpan out of plastic these days. That will not last 20 years. But beside that, good video, I suck my oil from v8 RS5 the exact same way. I have a little more work, first i have to disassemble the left airfilter before i can access little plug, where the tube can be inserted. otherwise it's fairly the same.
you know what they say, if the oilfilter is on top you suck it out, if it's under the car you drain it.
Great to hear your experiences with the RS5 (very jealous!). I'd extract just to never have to remove that underbody panel again, but yes, totally agree that Audi made it an easy decision to just extract when the oil filter is up top. Thank you again for taking the time to watch and comment.
5w-30? so im using 5w-40 is wrong oil in my 2017 A4 B9 ??
For 2017's you can use 5w-40 too as long as the oil meets VW 502.00 standards. Generally you want to the thinnest oil you can get away with, so unless you live in a hot climate or track your car, you can consider 5w-30. Or just get whatever is cheaper!
@@MetaloopDIY Using cheap oil is to play russian rulette with the Audi engines. The way pistons are designed in the cars is really picky about the oil you should use. But yes, cold start viscosity is dependent on the climate of your area. Hot viscosity dependent on the wear of piston rings.
@@samiramo7252 For sure, I didn't mean cheaper oil, I meant cheaper between 5w-40 or 5w-30, sometimes both meet VW 502.00 standards, but one is easier to find and potentially less expensive. Really depends on one's area and what specialty stores are near them.