Відео

Concrete can and will literally explode if put under high heat due to the water in the concrete creating steam pressure. These explosions are typically small and isolated to the surface, and we refer to it as spalling.

Thats a great idea! Unfortunately I live way inland (like 300 miles) so drift wood is not something I have much access too, but I have run a solid fuel forge on rabbit poop before.

I use the power hammer in nearly all of my other videos, but here is a link anyway that will take you to a video where I use the power hammer. ua-cam.com/video/p2NnUwfufD8/v-deo.html

it does work. you can see it running in almost every other video I have uploaded.

It does work, you can see it running in most of my other videos.

Thanks. It has saved my shoulder a lot of work over the last couple years.

Thank you!

Thanks! I spent a lot of time trying to find something that would work for a 20+ inch pully, and I was really excited when I thought of using the bike wheel.

@@northernforgeblacksmith hell yeah dude awesome job save the fucking shoulder too, a lot better than swinging the hammer that much.

The sprockets of the bike wheel are welded to a reducing coupling which is then welded to the bolt that functions as the drive shaft.

@@northernforgeblacksmith How did you ensure they were concentric? Also, what size reducer and I am assuming it’s black pipe?

I eyeballed it. The reducer was 2 inches on the large end so it would fit over the smallest sprocket and that helped line everything up. The smaller end is either 3/4 or 1 (I don't remember exactly) since it was the smallest they had with 2 inch on the other side.

@@northernforgeblacksmith does it wobble a lot?

It wobbles a bit since it wasn't all perfectly straight when I welded it, but it doesn't flex hardly at all.

It is fully functional. You can see it running in most of my videos.

You can check out almost all of my other videos to see it running.

the hammer does strike at a bit of an angle depending on the thickness of the material being worked. I build this one to strike flat on about 3/4 thick, but change in angle is pretty minimal for anything from about 1/4 to 1 1/4.

building a hammer is a great way to go if you have the tools and materials to do it. It will also give you a great appreciation for figuring out how the hammer works.

I assume you mean the cam. I used a combination of measuring a freehand. The sizing is based on how fast I wanted the hammer to strike and how high I wanted the hammer to rise. then I drew a circle on the wood, followed by the second larger circle. I calculated how much increase in size would need to happen per section of the cam and made some marks then freehanded the curve between the marks.

thank you very much!

Thank you for asking instead of being rude. This is one of my older videos, and the day I recorded this it was too cold to get the forge running (tank freeze-up) so I did not have it running. You can see the hammer running in many of my other videos though. I do have plans on re-recording this video with a demo of it running. I never realized it would cause so many people to be upset.

it does work. I didn't run it in this particular video because this was done last winter and it was too cold that day to run the forge (tank freeze-up). You can see the hammer running in many of my other videos.

Thanks, you can see the hammer running in most of my videos.

Thanks, I didn't realize there was a different name for the bearings when they are mounted this way. I just thought they were a different shape of pillow block.

I would have to back and look through my old posts to be 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure I used a 12lb hammer that got made heavier by welding it to the steel arm.

I use a butcher block brush.

Thanks friend! I'll try to make one for my dulcine for Xmas@@northernforgeblacksmith

It works very well. You can see it running in many of my other videos.

thanks, I appreciate it.

yeah, it did end up with a pretty aggressive taper. On the next one I made I will probably try and put a bit more flare into the transition so the taper can be less aggressive near the end. The fact that it isn't hardened definitely makes it easier to deform, but I think using a bit thicker material there would probably solve the issue just as well.

Thanks! I like the to char handles to remove splinters and burs from sanding without going into higher grits. And I like the color of it.

Thanks! I want to provide information to new smiths so they don't have to figure out things the hard way like I did.

Thanks. Christ Centered Ironworks has a design similar that actually moves the pivot point of the hammer up and down to achieve the adjustment. I think if I ever give this design adjustable height I will do it by making thr top of the anvil interchangable. Then I could add different tooling shapes too.

Also what type of steel did you use for this bick?

The hammer could definitely be designed to have a higher swing for more power, but I my springs can only stretch so far before they deform permanently, and I wanted to work within the parameters of parts I would be able to get locally.

I don't know the exact steel, I work with primarily recycled materials, but I believe this was made with a piece of a hydraulic pin, which I believe are usually made from a medium carbon steel.

Thank you very much!

Understandable. I almost didn't get this one up in time after I ended up spending last weekend at a fair that I heard about last minute and spent a week scrambling to get ready for.

Doesn't work. If you're going to criticize you should only do it in something approaching passable English.

"Doesn't work"! If you are going to criticize you should only do it if you can come across as someone who doesn't live in an old shack way back up in the hills of Dumbshitistan. English is something with which you might want to get acquainted.

Thanks!

Excellent question! Most mass produced hammers these days are made from drop forged steel so you could definitely reforge the hammer to create the fullers that most quality smithing hammers have.

I don't know what the original length of 1/4" square used, but after forged down to 3/16" it took about 6 inches for the brooch part (I think thats what I'll starr calling the looped part) and about 4 inches of 1/8" round for the pin. That said you can adjust the length used to make the brooch and pin whatever size you want.

@@northernforgeblacksmith awesome, answered my question perfectly, thank you

You're welcome! Wishing you the best from Alaska.

@northernforgeblacksmith I dream to live there at my "old times" - maybe one day... ;] 🍻

I was born and raised here. In my opinion its among the most beautifil places on Earth, and I will probably live here my whole life.

I love my cam hammer, it has allowed me to finish a lot of projects that would probably have otherwise taken too long, and I definitely don't regret it. If I somehow lost all my tools and had to start over, I would probably build another one, but if I was to build another hammer, I would probably use a different design. I actually bought the clay spencer power hammer plans last year, but the parts to build it are still a bit expensive for me right now.