Відео

Good point - thank you.

Good comments. Thank you for the feedback.

Don't forget to watch parts 2 and 3.

@@russellfrancisjr.2407 we did some steering work on the 1961 Cloud in this video and the two following ones. ua-cam.com/video/AXqeBgTXYxQ/v-deo.htmlsi=Q20cPtTlHd4AtZw5

@ thank you happy holidays

@@russellfrancisjr.2407 thanks. You too!

@@MrStrangegoo I wish I had the tools to make a spanner! However, the damage to that castellated nut did not is just on the surface and its functionality is not impacted.

@@victorleclerc9926 Thank you!!

@@richardmoss2179 Thank you for the feedback! Love that quote, I had not heard that before. Thank you. These steering boxes had to be really expensive to produce!

@@johnsworkshop3312my understanding is that everything on these cars-even the nuts and bolts-was machined in house, hence the high standards and expense.

Fantastic book: James Taylor, _Original Rolls-Royce & Bentley 1946-1965_ Bay View Books, (1999) says on p.7: “The choice of Crewe for post-war manufacture was also to have considerable influence on the components used in the cars, for although there was no foundry or forge there was a very extensive machine shop. Consequently, the post-war cars differ from many other makes in that many of the parts were designed and machined in the factory, and that applied from specialist item such as the large diameter engine valves down to mundane items such as nuts and bolts. Supplied castings and forgings were also purchased in a raw state for machining by Rolls-Royce.”

@ right. Each nut has a stamp on it and there are extra machining grooves on the bolt heads to make them look nice. Pretty amazing.

@ very interesting. Thank you for sharing that!! The steering box internal parts sure are well made with lots of machining.

@@brendadonovan1343 thanks for the feedback!

@@DanielPadilla-f1f Awesome! Thanks for watching!

@@eross21 that is just the exhaust so you can just leave it open.

@ oh awesome! thank you

@@russellfrancisjr.2407 we did not have the bounce at all. I suspect that could be the rotor bumping the aluminum ring causing the bounce.

@ Thanks - Keep the Rolls videos coming.

@@russellfrancisjr.2407 thanks for the encouragement!

@@hlaz001 Thank you for the feedback!

@@billwitmer-ig3os Thank you for the comments. I found that dust boot at Autozone. They had to order it, and it might take a few days to get in, but they should be able to fix you up.

@@johnsworkshop3312 Yep, Autozone is my go parts house but they can't find it in their system. Checked also at NAPA store and Advance Auto. No luck. Also checked with local Chevy dealer. The dust cover was part of a kit that is now discontinued. Going to start searching the web. Thanks for you reply!

@@billwitmer-ig3os I zoomed in on the video and it looks like what I had used was a Dorman 924-423 part.

@@victorleclerc9926 Thank you for the kind words. I’m really glad you are finding value in the videos. By putting the worn gear at the highest digit it will turn 500 times less frequently compared to its original position. It is possible the a problem could occur when turning the leading digit, but you can check for that by just putting the highest 2 or 3 digits on and rotating by hand to make sure it is working ok. I’m not sure where you would find a replacement gear besides locating a scrap speedometer and pulling it from there. Good luck with your odometer repair!

@@donaldjoseph8327 unfortunately, there is no way to check the level and no way to insert a dipstick. The best thing you can do is look for any seepage or leaks, and if you see any, and if it has been a while since you changed it last, it may be time to service the transmission.

@@royreynolds108 good information. Thank you, and thanks for watching!

@@BoomerShroomer thank you!!

@@Schwertman57 Thank you!!

Thank you!

@@brendadonovan1343 thank you!!

@@5000RR I think I used just over nine. But I would recommend having 10 available just in case you run a little short.

@@johnsworkshop3312 weird my meyle kit came with 8L,idk if us market ml is different fro euro,i have euro 2011 with a89 code

@@5000RR If you don’t drain the torque converter you would use a whole lot less. But I would not recommend that. You can also measure how much comes out and that should be very close to how much you need to put back in. You end up putting more than you need into it so you can drain it out until the level is down to the top of the standpipe, so wasting some is inevitable.

@@johnsworkshop3312 my kit came with new tc drain plug so ill do it,other also said 8L is fine but well see these days

@@E85_STI I believe it is not in series with the compressor. It may kick on when the AC is on but on a separate circuit.

@@johnsworkshop3312 thanks for the info and I ended up replacing the compressor, accumulator and orifice tube for them but I haven’t charged the system yet but the old compressor had oil and dye all in the magnetic clutch area so the shaft seal blew out idk how long ago maybe over a year ago. I did flush the evap as well and all orings and spring locks changed. Fingers crossed tomorrow when I pull a vac I find no leaks.

@@E85_STI sounds like you did everything you need to do. I sure hope it works well when you fill it up.

@@SmoooothEight thank you for the comment!

@@o-jhvacservices4094 Thank you! That is the Mercedes Star System and I got it online quite a few years ago. I think I found it from someone on one of the Mercedes forums. I will have to do some digging to find out who.

@@amanshahzad5072 Brake pedal height is set by the mechanical linkage back to the rear brakes, so I would start by adjusting them and then re-checking the pedal feel.

@@OkeyE904 Wow, thank you for the feedback!!

@@naume_1743 no port. Have to pull the compressor out and pour the oil out of one of the connection lines.

@@strake338 good question. I just tightened by feel. I’d guess 10 to 20 ft-lb

@@johnsworkshop3312 Thank you Sir. Just wanted to make sure I didn't put it too tight and snap something off.

@@strake338 I’m with you on that!

@@johnsworkshop3312 20 NM is the torque for the mounting bolts as well as the hoses to compressor. Page 4 file:///C:/Users/User/Desktop/R&I%20AC%20Compressor.PDF

@@strake338 thank you!

@@TStheDeplorable I think it was and I have less in this machine than a similar new one. I bet at least $1000 less.

@@johnsworkshop3312 Thank you for the response. I've got my eyes out for a used one. Peace!

Where did you get the quick couple you attached your micron gauge to for the testing of new hoses and quick disconnect?

@@naume_1743 I found that on Amazon.

@@TStheDeplorable good idea about the clear oil. I just bought the official Robinair stuff, but probably paid a premium. Yeah, mine was pretty bad when I got it.

@@miguelortega7799 yes, that sounds like it could be the solenoid valve.

And the brakes cylinders and servo don't return to their original position until you get under the car and sort of manually do it yourself

@@thatguy11224 sounds like either the brake clutch material is rusted to the disk that turns when you roll, or the linkage is jammed up and causing the servo to be engaged when it shouldn’t be.

​It is a left hand drive car can you please let me know which linkage you're talking about? I would love some detail as I've already spent a lot of time and money into fixing this car and parts aren't available here as I live in Dubai. ​@@johnsworkshop3312

@@johnsworkshop3312 hey John. Thanks for the reply I'm hoping you can let me know which linkage you are talking about as I have a left hand drive car. And also if there's any other things that might be causing it. So I can check it all out together. The car is in Dubai and you know the weather here doesn't allow me to go after it day after day.

@@thatguy11224 I am thinking that if the servo clutch disk is not frozen to the drive plate (both inside the servo) then the two levers that actuate the servo must be jammed apart somehow. That will cause the clutch plate and drive plate to be pressed toward each other. Or it could be in the mechanism that translates the separation of those levers into the compression force driving the plates together. I hope you figure it out at your next visit to the car.

@@kevinmohamed3421 just the new ones were used.

@@Scott-yd8xn Thank you Scott!!

@@52RedHouse Thanks for the tip. Yeah, rust is bad up there. I’m lucky that this truck spent a lot of time in the garage during winter.

@@BenzAddiction Thanks for the feedback. Good luck, I hope you get yours resolved.

@@marlonlamas7604 Not sure I follow your question, but to get the oil out of the big tanks I tipped it upside down.

@@Masteryogis I don’t have a video, but I will say that the lug nuts on the left side of the car are left-handed thread. Thus, on that side you must go clockwise to loosen. Also, the brass lug nuts are delicate and should not be over tightened. The tightening torque is only 55 ft-lb.

@@johnsworkshop3312 Thank you very much for the response. I really appreciate you taking the time to answer my question. Have a nice day 😄👍🏻

@@Masteryogis you’re welcome! You too!