Відео

@@DomOrtega Thanks! I run the gun on its highest setting. I can double check, but believe the gun I use gets to 1200 degrees. Definitely need to keep the heat moving. I’ve never tried with a torch before to compare tho.

@@TunersCanvas Thanks, what kind of solution do you use for your bottles?

@@DomOrtega I’ve always used Johnson Baby Shampoo. Generally about 8-10 pumps into 32oz spray bottle of water.

@@marquisstearn3253 Absolutely! 🤘😎

@@agallego6528 Honestly, it’s very subtle. At certain angles when the truck is clean it stands out but most times it’s hard to tell it’s there. Didn’t quite pop like I was hoping.

@@rudycaruso4757 That process is only to prep the size and shape of the tint to match the window. Then, the glass is cleaned and tint installed inside.

@@rickyduran5263 Hey, appreciate it! Coilovers are on and recently R154 manual swapped! On my Instagram I do have some Chaser pics but it’s mainly my tint and vinyl jobs. @tuners.canvas

@@jalenriddle When I’m traveling, I carry with me an old sunroof out of a car. Something that could be a cheap option is visiting a local Restore or similar that has used house doors and windows for reasonable price. Or, if there is a bargain section at your Menards, Lowe’s, Home Depot that might have a discounted framed glass to mount on wall or lay over trash bin, saw horses, etc.

@@CORYJOHNM No sweat. You’re planning to apply vinyl on the outside of the back window correct? There is a product called knifeless tape. It’s a string contained within a pinstripe size tape and you can apply that to match the contour of the defrost line first on the outside. Then lay the vinyl past the knifeless tape. Once it’s in place and squeegeed then release and pull the string through the vinyl and it will cut exactly where the tape was to match the contour of the defrost line.

@@TunersCanvas oh yeah I remember that in signage and auto wraps. Thanks

@@deepfilmsny Much appreciated 🤙

@@davidoliver2826 I have been using SunTek films now for about 10 years and have been very happy with it. There are a number of different film companies now but don’t have any personal experience with them since I’ve been exclusive to SunTek so long. Currently I don’t have retail options in place but I have been working on setting up vehicle specific pre-cut tint patterns that can be ordered online. Until then, maybe I can roll up some material from my bulk and send your way. What is the first vehicle you’d likely want to tint?

@@TunersCanvas wow thank you! I have a 96 Silverado extended cab. Looking to do doors, side windows and rear one piece windows.

@@davidoliver2826 Very cool. I will say, that year Silverado is a tricky one to start with. The glass itself doesn’t extend into the side gaskets, but stops at an integrated channel molding instead. Not impossible, but a different technique than I shared in this video. My phone number can be found on my website, tunerscanvas.com, if you’d like you can text and I’d be able to share additional pictures/videos with details more specific to that application.

@@brianmooney7009 Appreciate it 😎

@@bobbybfishing4447 It was some time ago, but from what I can recall, remove the large interior hatch panel and from the inside you’ll be able to see the fasteners that hold that handle assembly in place. There were quite a few of them I believe, more than I would have thought there’d be. Not a lot of great detail I apologize, but hopefully enough to get you started in the right direction.

@@1deadpool11 My preference is to bottom load when I install so the panel and gasket is is removed at the bottom inside. Since they are out of the way, I can heat after the tint is installed. For those who 2-stage install, the gasket is left in place so a pre shrink on the outside assists with tucking the bottom edge since heat can’t be applied after.

@@jmack56 Appreciate the feedback 🤙 The Voodoo Blue is definitely sweet!

@@blinkydm1749 Awesome. Thanks for the feedback 🤙 For the door panels, many of them share a lot of similarities. Typically a fastener behind the door open lever, in the pocket of the close handle, along bottom, and sometimes behind additional trims. There are also many vehicles that allow you to pull back the top of the panel and slide out the gasket without having to remove the full panel. I usually start with that and if it doesn’t snap back easy I start removing fasteners. I have removed thousands at this point so I’ve more less memorized which vehicles I have to do what and where they are. For your first passes you could search panel removal videos and as you see repeats it’ll become more and more familiar.

@@jordanarenas7876 It helps to apply masking tape on the glass, then cut a fair amount of extra vinyl width, slowly tuck it around the edge of the glass and behind with tools.

@@Yerboytroy253 Hey, thanks! For anyone who is installing the tint with a 2-step method, it is common to pre shrink as it allows the bottom edge of the tint to be tucked into the bottom gasket. My preference is to bottom load the tint first by pulling back the top of the door panel and removing the gasket. With that out of the way, heat can then be applied inside during install and not required ahead of time outside since the gasket is out of the way. On your F150, it is very easy to pull back the top edge of the door panel, possibly removing a few fasteners first (behind side mirror cover trim), and slide out the gasket for ease of access. Be sure to cut a good 1/4” extra on the sides and a full 1” extra on bottom beyond your markings outside as the gaskets are deep on Fords and ensures the edge of the film is not exposed when installed inside.

@@TunersCanvas thank you for the reply! Great reply by the way. I saw one of your videos was a 2021+ f150 with the big screen! I have a 2021 as well so that video is going to help me tremendously. Thank you again. One more question, I do not have a board to cut the tint like you do. Can a piece of cardboard work while cutting around the outline that I made?

@@Yerboytroy253 Awesome. Appreciate the feedback! For cutting, cardboard might be tricky. I’d suggest a hard surface. The cut board I’m using is an old patio door. I’ve also used a sunroof glass, or window in the garage. If you’re cautious, low angle and light pressure with a stainless blade, you could cut on the side window of the truck as well.

@@jordanarenas7876 At the time of this video I sampled both wrapping on and off the truck. Wrapping on the truck worked great to hold it in place, using tuck tools to lift back the gasket. Didn’t turn out perfect. When wrapping off the truck it was hard to keep the flares from moving around but was easier to roll the seal back and get vinyl underneath. Since then, I have wrapped the truck again in a gloss blue and decided to remove the flares and the seals, wrap completely around edge, and install fresh new seals sourced from Toyota dealer. Much cleaner install going this route.

@@larybunner Awesome. Happy to hear it 🤙

@@guille20089 Believing is half way there. Grab a roll and take it one panel at a time. Don’t expect perfection but I think you’ll find the process is rewarding and a learning experience.

@@theemanofgodalexmartineziv5802Appreciate it 🤙

@@deepsweech I believe it may vary state to state. Generally speaking, a dark black out film may generate some attention even though it is a transparent film designed to allow light to shine through.

@@Souplord1 Absolutely 🤙

@@jordanarenas7876 The first time I wrapped the truck, I left the flares mounted and tucked the vinyl behind the seal with tools. The second time I wrapped the truck I ordered new seals and pulled the flares off, wrapped them, installed new seals and clips, and snapped back onto truck. Much better result the second time.

@@TunersCanvas appreciate the response. Any other tips on the Tacoma in general

@@jordanarenas7876 If your Tacoma is an access cab, removing the rear doors completely provide great access to reach into jamb and also space between back of cab and box.

@@TunersCanvasdid you buy OEM clips from dealer or after market? Got a link if after markets

@@jordanarenas7876 Ordered OEM clips and seals from dealer. Not terribly expensive to be honest and makes big difference to overall finish.

@@sambeauxfulkerson7892 Tint can be a tedious art. Definitely takes a little practice so messing up a few times is no big deal. Glad to hear the video brought some value.

@@abbiequiver3174 Absolutely. Hope it helped!

@@hectordieguez3573 Thanks. Appreciate it!

@@cosimocatanese7941 You got it!

@@SteveWolfe-l5h Appreciate the feedback. Thank you!

@@blaze3084 Spray bottle is mostly water, with a small mixture of Johnson’s Baby Shampoo. There are different preferences on amount but starting out, a little more helps provide additional movement of film to get positioned before squeegeeing.

@@txwilson100 Awesome. Great to hear!

Hey that’s awesome! For the rear glass, solid or sliding, I prep the film on the outside just the same as side doors. Roll the film across the back, liner facing out towards you, and trace or cut slightly larger than the visual area of the window. To help with visibility, place a bright light inside the truck facing back to clearly define where to trace/ cut. Does that make sense?

That likely isn’t an ideal alternative but a blow dryer might work if you have access. Doesn’t require a lot of heat but hot air is better than a direct contact.

@@TunersCanvas OK I don’t own a hair dryer lol but I’ll hunt one down 😀👍 Just attempted hot iron.. and you are correct.. not affective. Thanks for quick reply! 😊

@@rwarren108 Another option could be a small space heater that you could hold. Something that would radiate out a span of heat should do the trick.

Appreciate it. Hopefully helpful.

Awesome. Not a lot of detail but hopefully enough to help.

Other than special projects, all of my stock rolls in carbon and ceramic are bulk 40”x100’

@@TunersCanvas I’m trying to tint my own mustang, what size roll do you think I should get? Also thank you for responding!

@@mohamedchreidi3940 For the Mustang, a 40” roll is going to allow you to cover the full back window. Instead of a bulk 100’ however I’d look for a 25’ length roll by 40” wide. That will give you some extra incase a window needs a couple tries to complete.

That’s commercial sizes anyway. Not sure how the alternate parts store Gila rolls come.

@@TunersCanvas I’m looking at motoshield pro, so would 30in x 5 ft be good?

This one was done in Medium Gloss.

I have been using SunTek film for several years. Started with the Standard Pro line and transitioned a few years ago to Carbon and CIR ceramic. The cost you’re interested in is for the rolls from supplier or pricing charged for particular installations? I do have a few videos referencing windshields being tinted but they are not specifically a detailed step by step like this video is for the side windows. More of a time lapse.

@@TunersCanvas hi thank for the info. I was wanting to get information on purchasing the rolls myself and installing on my own vehicles is why i asked about the cost. i was just told my new truck only has tinted glass no film and were in TX😅 and my work truck has zero tent.

Dickinson!

@@TunersCanvas hello from the east side of the state - love the content

@@johnd7201 Hey! Thanks 🤘😎

It’s a soap mix. There are products available for tint installation but I and many others use Johnson’s Baby Shampoo. The amount is tricky, there are some recommended mix ratio if you did a search to get you started, but it seems each installer varies by preference. As a beginner, it’s better to add a little extra to the water as it will provide a bit more forgiveness and ability to adjust the tint into place easier.

Place tint on the outside of the quarter glass that is larger than the matrix line. Can use the cut off section from front door if cut properly. Place a light on the inside of the car shining out through the quarter glass. Now there is a visual pattern you can trace with a sharpie or cut with your blade a little larger than the pattern the light shines through. Now you have tint that can be applied to inside. Important note, the clear release liner needs to be facing out towards you when placing that tint on outside before tracing.

@@TunersCanvas Can you please make a tutorial how to install those because i’ve seen there’s no video on internet concerning that

@@SINGHISAKSHAM Sure can. Next vehicle I get that has them I’ll set up the camera 🤙

@@TunersCanvas hittin on that subscribe button🔥

I have been installing SunTek film for a number of years. Started with Standard Pro line and now only offer Carbon and Ceramic. Generally asking $90 for front two windows in the SunTek Carbon.

Thanks. To match the factory rear privacy glass, generally the 20 is a good option.

@@TunersCanvas I watched that again you said 35% that looks close that’s what I’m going to ask for is that a common % ✌️

@@tooldiebum For sure. The 35 is a fair option that doesn’t look too far off from the back and provides great visibility.

I’ve definitely fine tuned since then but is there a different approach you’ve used to address what you’re seeing?

@@TunersCanvas Well im unsure if im just incorrectly seeing this but it looks like the film touchesthe headliner quite a few times, Thats why i said that.

@@TunersCanvasI use scotch tape on the headliner which prevents what happened. U could also aim your water down to not bring any from the liner

@@justincarrizosa3367 I like the tape idea. For a while now I’ve been laying film just below and sliding up into position.

You got it! Scrub those defrost lines really well on the back as they’re thicker on the Challenger and tend to give grief.

@@TunersCanvasnoted & appreciated!

@@TunersCanvasnoted & appreciated!

Thanks. Appreciate it!

and entertaining it is 😂

Appreciate it. That will work right away to shape the film around them, but there’s too much tension that way and the chances of it lifting back up are really high. Heat will allow the film to stretch, but heat will also shrink it back to original state so when it’s sitting in the sun there’s a natural tendency of stretched areas to shrink back and lift up.

@@TunersCanvas Great video! I had my Tundra tail lights smoked with this same tint product, at a tint shop. Two days later, there is lifting above and below the 'fins' that are so hard to work around. Can I correct that myself, with a little heat and working to stretch the material back into place? Is there risk in splitting the material? And if I can not get the air bubbles around the fins to settle down, should I relive the tension by poking or cutting it? Any help is great!

@@AndyAAnderson Thats a bummer but they’re definitely tricky to work around. Unfortunately, with the tension that was left during initial install, heating and pressing back down will likely continue to lift back up and bubble. You can give it a try but I feel the material will eventually split apart. Best bet is a redo from the shop, giving them an opportunity to learn a better approach for future applications.

Absolutely. Bottom load has been my preference but use two stage from time to time when I have to. Thanks!

A little heat afterwards helps but a preshrink generally isn’t necessary.