Відео

LOL! I think so ;-), you do you!

I like to think I promote the best things in life :-D! THanks very much Jeff! I'm *very* much on a mission to try bringing about the handbuilt wheel revolution for all!

Yep: you also get Roger's book which is updated over time so well worth the small expense I feel 👍🏻.

There's a technique that I employ for some builds that start with radial: I'll have to make a video about this at some point but if starting radial works then that's absolutely a legit way of building too 😊

Nor I! It's all shot so just needs editing and then the series will be complete!

For Sqourx and other 'double' drive nipples set the spokes so as they at *least* go past the poing where a slot would like if you put a slotted nipple alongside; you can also choose to fill the whole head of a double drive nipple; but I prefer to leave, say, 3mm to account for further spoke stretch or the ability to use a longer spoke if needed should that be all you can get hold of.

@@RyanBuildsWheels hmmm, maybe i’m not understanding but it seems that for double drive nipples that method leaves 1-2mm of variance in your measurement and therefore the spoke length calculation may be off by 1-2mm as well. Does this mean double drive nipples tolerate imperfect spoke lengths better? Bonus question, when using double drive - if I understand correctly you would personally recommend rounding *up* spoke lengths if using all DT Swiss components and an odd number was required but all you could get was even numbers?

In a slotted setup that 150mm figure I gave for my ERD Sticks is from the bottom of the slot to the end of the ERD Stick spoke!; make sense?

@@RyanBuildsWheels yep! I found your dedicated video on it 🙏🏻👌🏻

My pleasure!

Loads of people make their own and - actually - mine is simply a big plate of (25mm thick!) machine aluminium that we bolted some neccesary bits to after whizzing it through the mill in the necessary ways! I might have to do a video about making the sort of calibrator you mention in the future; 8020 aluminium extrusion is the stuff a lot of people use.

@@RyanBuildsWheels if you can make ‘em for GBP150 you’ll sell a metric sh*t ton. Probably an imperial sh*t ton too!

Right on and stoked to have you on board Bart! I'm glad to have found the time to get the series started again and the final chapter online within the next month! All the work I've done having made the blog post below has allowed the time and space to start working on the YT Channel again and it's so nice to be flexing those creative muscles. www.ryanbuildswheels.co.uk/exciting-times-ahead-why-are-my-order-books-closed/ Feel free to send me those forums; people's 'passion' for that old argument may provide some entertainment ;-)!

Great to hear! Who's your go to spokesperson?!

Very true Eric! I love comparing notes with others :-).

Aaa! It's in the next video! Ok :)

You gottit! If your wheel starts by feeling WAY to tight and it's hard to turn or true then you're beyond tension already; I wanted to keep this video simple so I hope the concept of 'working' and final tension proves easy to grasp :-).

My pleasure Martin! Thanks for your continued Patreon membership too; I'm trying to figure out how to get an updated list of all Patron's as an end screen on every existing video...I swear there must be a way but my GoogleFu is proving insufficient! If *anyone* can help with an answer to the above then huge props!

Glad it was helpful! My aim is that others most certainly CAN start the process of perfection should they so wish to, but - hey - after 15+ years I'm going to say that I'm pretty good at it ;-)!

Coming soon!

Nice!! Have a great time building!

Next video in another 8 months?😂 ​@@RyanBuildsWheels

I love it! Wheelbuilding for me is hugely calming and I experience a sense of Flow often :-)

I often draw a diagram and for students and put it on the truing stand with a magnet :-).

@@RyanBuildsWheels I wish I had that when I started haha

An excellent point in case! I'll have to give this a go.

I've been VERY happy with my morizumi over the years and feel that it's two 'stage' (cutting and threading are seperate) operation means simpler setup and maintenance; I've not had enough experience on a Phil Machine but they're very well thought of too and maybe a tad faster as they cut and thread as one operation. In my new workshop I'm renovating a 2nd hand Kowa right now; thus far I still very much prefer the Morizumi

@@RyanBuildsWheels thank you so much Ryan! I really appreciate it!

I've been VERY happy with my morizumi over the years and feel that it's two 'stage' (cutting and threading are seperate) operation means simpler setup and maintenance; I've not had enough experience on a Phil Machine but they're very well thought of too and maybe a tad faster as they cut and thread as one operation.

@@RyanBuildsWheels thank you so much Ryan!

Thanks 👍

I'm trying to get the reference but feel I'm missing something ;-).

**This Should Really be a Whole Video!** BONUS CONTENT INCOMING!** It's because outbound spokes - in theory, the actual differnce is likely miniscule - have a larger bracing angle; they are a flange's width more outboard than the inbound spokes and therefore should prove more resitant to torque...or SUMMANT! ;-) @PeterVerdone has a post about this from some time ago: www.peterverdone.com/archive/bikewheels.htm Shimano and other's reccomendations try to put the most spokes on each flange that will be experiencing load from braking or driving forces outbound...so it's worth noting that theoritically a disk brake front wheel should have ALL outboard spokes as leading spokes: I however teach it this way so as the first step's remain the same for all builds and not to confuse things too much. INRESESTINGLY....some people - touring cyclists especially, also pertinent to MTB - suggest that rear drive be laced with outbound spokes leading to help avoid damage to spokes should chain suck occur; this allows the chain to 'ramp up' the spokes rathe than get sucked into the mash em to pieces. But you know the funny thing?!? I've seen wheels built **EVERY WHICH WAY** in terms of asym vs sym, outbound vs inbound direction, front vs rear, rim vs disk etc...from SO many different sources; factory (including for example, HopeTech) , bike shop, other builders, hobbyists, high end, low end...etc etc..and in all this time never noted one pattern failing more than any others; if the wheel is well build with good and appropriate components and tolernace for tension balance on each flange then it just doesn't seem to matter ;-). I teach it 'theoretically correct' (aside from that pesky NDS front disk flange...which means I'm theoretically incorrect!) so as when it comes to flanges that experience a more direct load from braking or drive forces people can't accuse me of being a hack or sh** on someone's brand new wheels and make my customers feel back...but if you're building for yourself in anything but the most critical of builds where you've got to push every last bit of durability out of them I **JUST DON'T THINK IT MATTERS!!!** DWWFY. I've been working professionally for over a decade now, my wheels are awesome, none of them come back with spoke fatigue etc issues...I'm confident in the above; people can fight me if they like (and then they can read this post again because that's what I've got to say on the matter!) ;-).

@@RyanBuildsWheels Wow! What a comprehensive response. Ok I get it now. I did rewatch you video and realized you had said that it did not make much if any difference. I did also go and check my wheels (the ones I built and the ones I bought) and none had that nuance built in. Thanks for the reply and videos

Wlecome onboard Pete! It's been a RIDE but I'm learning loads right now and in the future will defintiely be making a video about the ADHD stuff for sure! It's pretty all encompassing and I appreciate your kind words :-D

@steppings5645 thanks: you obviously have good taste😉

I look forward to hearing from you Kev 🤜🏻! I sure do have experience with Berd: Building wheels with BERD SPOKES. NEW Berd TALON HUB released! ua-cam.com/video/yLy1JdSTHAo/v-deo.html

@@RyanBuildsWheels Excellent. I'll be looking for two pairs of weight weenie super light aero wheels at some point next year. One rim brake pair; one disc brake.

Aw Matt! I'm so sorry :'-(!!! I'm only an hour or so away over the Bridge and the riding around here is excellent; you are MORE than welcome to get in touch to come by for a cuppa :-).

Nice! Which bits of the alps did you go to?!

It's fair to say that this video is doing pretty well thus far thanks Martin; giving me lots of food for thought on where I and how I want to take the channel thus far; I'm really touched that you noticed :-). Said AMA is going to go live shortly; I was having some umms and ahh's about editing it as we touched on some pretty heavy topics but re-watching it I feel what we discussed can be understood to come from a good place...wow...talk about a teaser for folks hey?!

With the correct internal nipple driver; a good example would be the Parl Tool SW-15 which allows several options.

@@RyanBuildsWheels Thank you, I was. wondering how to grip the internal nipple..

Yep!

Very cool! Closed bed though...EURGH! Now THAT is a truly patience testing build Citaly! If you do another carbon spoke build with this manufacturers spokes then I can indeed highly suggest the Aero spokes; consistency is much better :-).

LOL! Sorry to keep you waiting ;-)!

One of my next videos will be entitled 'Why Wheel Weight Doesn't Matter' Raymond ;-).

Aye; assembly was a pain! I've now built with the larger Aero spokes and those were much quicker; not sure I'll go with the thinner spokes if building in carbon again.

No nipple glueing happening here Mike; which part of the spoke do you mean?

The titanium nipple part at the rim comes apart. Don’t know how to send pictures, but I can show you.

As do I!

MARTIN! Great to hear from you; email incoming ;-)! You know I even added 'Master Wheel Builder' to my business cards of late; I'm not afraid to note that I've clocked WELL over my 10,000 hours this past decade and a bit ;-). I'm reading 'The Craftsman' by Richard Sennett right now and re-reading a bunch of other stuff around craft in general; I think there's a real politic to it.

Aside from Extralite - to my knowledge - all of those brands above don't have their 'own' carbon rims per se; they'll all be sourcing from a variety of factories that makes loads of rims for third parties regardless so a 'DT' rim isn't really a DT rim at all for example (but I'm happy to be proven wrong on this point if it needs to be refuted). Don't fall for brand names is my top advice here. Which leaves your question where to look: two high end brands that I'm happy to reccomend are South Industries and @reservewheels3482; I've had great times building both of their products. Venn Cycling are my *go to* option for quality OEM carbon rim options and my own in house range of carbon builds launching this year utilise them exclusively. Paul over at @Mapdec digs em too I believe :-). I'm going to have to stick up for LB though: I've built many of their rims over the years and the only failure I've ever seen was a pressure blow out on one of their lightest models caused by rider error (where pressure from the tubeless system enters the rim). Have you any direct experience with their product?

A friend of mine who's a German engineer builds lots of light bicycle rims. Only good things to say about them.

I agree. I have a pair I’ve used quite heavily for 8 years. All good.

I built a wheelset using Light Bicycle rims 46mm deep and rim brake compatible. I've had them two seasons now, no problems.

@@RyanBuildsWheels thank you for the long response! I’ve not had any experience with Light Bicycle, and I take your point on brand names not necessarily manufacturing in-house (most often it’s not!)? I guess my qualm is whether there’s any decent engineering or QC that goes on and that’s what I’d expect to be getting from a brand name. I know that’s not necessarily the case, of course but it’s psychological I suppose. I also don’t like the imperfections of carbon rims - voids, bubbling, lack of compaction…. which isn’t seen. At least with aluminium rims what you see is what you get. I love me a good DT or HED rim. For the average punter that’s all we really need!

It's good for you ;-)!

I didn't, I got RBW to do mine whilst living in Bucks. But I now live in Bristol...

Mega thanks Tony and thanks for your kind words about the weekenders! I love teaching and am now also offering 1 to 1 classes on a day basis too during the working week! It was a pleasure having you and I'm stoked to be reminded that you live close by; we'll grab that coffee soon! Pt3 is here (ua-cam.com/video/mzv5T4OBFTw/v-deo.html&ab_channel=RyanBuildsWheels) but because it's only the second step (Pt 1 is "Tools you'll need") I get the confusion. Pt4 being edited this week / next and will be the next video uploaded :-D! Keep your eyes peeled!

I'm glad someone likes my brain! I'm learning more about it all the time ;-)!

@@RyanBuildsWheels your wheels aren't half bad either

Thanks Paul: I try my best! I've since got my hands on some of the bladed rather than oval affairs and those are much more consistent: building with them was easier for sure 👍🏻

Love that Mapdec and RBW are mates 😍

Hey @Firmbutton6485; what do you mean by 'let go' please? I'd really like to hear; had the spokes failed in some way? When did you first buy the wheels would be super interesting to know too! Was it LB who rebuilt them for you or did you have to go with someone local? Extralites on Berd will be a fantastic set so great to hear you got a killer set of wheels in the end!

@@RyanBuildsWheels the titanium ends, where they screw into the rims had come apart completely. 8 out of the 48 before they were even fitted to the bike. I will ping you some pics by your website.

It's great to be back Lizheng 🎉❤!

And a very nice set to build they were John! Lovely to hear from you and thanks very much indeed for the well wishes!

@@RyanBuildsWheels Good luck with your new venture 👍

Absolutely! But this is also likely tied to the rims and tyres you have to boot.