Great video! I completely agree on the superiority of Sapim aluminum nipples. I will use DT brass, because I have about a bazillion of them, but when it comes to aluminum, it is Sapim all the way.
Hi Ryan, I enjoyed this and your other videos too. Informative and straightforward whilst retaining a bit of fun....keep them coming. The short format works well👍👍
Awesome, thank you! Yes, I'm trying to keep the format shorter to start with; easier to edit and hopefully more engaging! Minus all the 'silly' bits my intention was to keep this to 5 minutes...I've just 'too much' knowledge to cram into that space it would seem ;-)>
Great videos Ryan, thank you for creating your channel. Do anodised alloy nips scratch when tensioning under higher tensions and if so, do you tension from the back on double square ones?
They certainly can do if overworked but this also depends on the quality of the anodising; you're quite right in saying that using Double Square or double drive nips of some sort can help solve this but another answer lies in quality spoke wrenches with a good fit; my favourites are the DT Swiss Proline or Monolith Tools right now; review of those below! ua-cam.com/video/rU7lhlbvKRM/v-deo.html
Great video. Maybe after scouring the entire internet I will be able to order the parts for a set of cargo bike wheels knowing that everything fits well.
Greetings from Seattle (originally from Bath). I just discovered your channel and am enjoying your videos. Nice work. Btw, can you tell me more about your tea/coffee mug there? I see a quote from a Crass lyric but I can't quite read what it says on the mug (rendered on the mug) that has the spanner stirring the coffee. In the spirit of your mug, when it comes to the question of whether or not I will be watching more of your videos in the future all I can say is that "Yes Sir, I Will". Cheers.
Welcome aboard @Al_Spence! Stoked to have you, especially seeing as you're originally from nearby! How long have you been in Seattle? The Mug is very dear to me (Crisis! The handle finally snapped off the other day after over 7 years...)...and was dreamt up by my dear friend Rob; it was his brainchild but together he, I and others collectively founded a community workshop, punk gig venue, and veggie / vegan bike cafe in the heart of Bristol: in the spanner mug it says "Roll for the Soul", the name of the venue :-) facebook.com/RftSBristol/ Rob now works at Bristol Bike Project and occasionally we still host gigs / collective jam sessions at RBW HQ ... all a story for another time I guess, it was a wild ride :-).
@@RyanBuildsWheels Thanks for the reply. My sister lives in Cardiff and is involved with an anarchist group there. I will ask her if she ever visited that cafe (probably). It sounds like it was a great spot. Bicycles and good food, always a great combination and pretty much describes what I've been up to for the last 25 years or so. I worked at a local natural foods co-op here in Seattle for many years as a cook, whilst teaching myself how to build bike frames in my spare time. I've been living in Seattle since 1998. Moved here to work at a small framebuilding company that was fabricating high end lugged steel framesets. I spent 15 years putting together my own small shop, teaching myself how to braze, weld, machine etc. etc. Built my own frames, racks, stems, fixtures, tooling and so on. Sadly, it was all destroyed in wildfire (the Western US has been getting hit hard with fires lately) a few years back, so I've had to start from scratch again. Now I work for a local university as a part of a small team of riders that use Bullitt cargo bikes to deliver mail/packages from the main mail processing facility, all over campus, and around the city too. The decision was made last summer to bring the maintenance of the bikes in house so I've been building out a workshop and equipping it with tools these last 6 months or so. Now I split my time as mechanic and delivery rider. Anyway, that's how I found your channel. I've been giving myself a refresher course on wheelbuilding. We're pretty hard on wheels, given the heavy loads that we move around the city, and how crappy the roads are here. I want to make sure that I'm building wheels that will hold up to the abuse as long as possible. I will be sure to comment on future videos!
Hi, thanks for the video! I have a Bontrager Kovee, double-wall, Tubeless-Ready, 28-hole, 23 mm width, Presta valve. Its new and the spoke nipples have been worn already. I dont know much about bikes but I have seen a video on how to change a spoke nipple with a screwdriver bit and it looks easy. Do I need a specific size nipple in these? Also, do you think me changing the nipples is ok and a good idea. Meaning, do you think its easy to mess up 😅 or does it need to be done by a professionals. Do you also think I need washers? Thanks 🤩
With the right research you should be A-OK although without seeing the wheel in person it's hard to tell: get yourself a spoke key and some kind of truing stand (even a pair of zipties around your frame or fork will work just fine) and it's certainly something that anyone can do! HOWEVER! I don't reccomned replacing all nipples just for the sake of it; knowing what 'the nipples are worn' means would help but - in short - if the wheel is true, and the spokes aren't super loose I'd likely suggest leaving it be ;-). If in doubt a trip to your LBS is likely the way to go!
Just wondering if there's an obvious reason why the standard brass nipples don't work well with the DT Swiss / PHR washers? I get the thing about the slot being a weak point generally - but is there something about the PHR design that stresses the nipple more than usual, and therefore makes a standard nipple more failure-prone?
It's the 'normal' (specifically I'm talking about Sapim's Polyax) head ALLOY nipples that I've had issues with on PHR washers...the *slight* difference in profile doesn't seem to play well with the edges of the PHR washer and I've seen the nipple head shear off from stress fractures over time, likely exacerbated by the interaction with the washer...never seen this with Polyax in brass so I'm putting it down to Brass simply being less brittle. Sapim's Double Square nips have just a SLIGHT difference in profile vs their slotted options despite both coming under the Polyax label; zero issues. What I don't have experience with - seeing as I've found a solution that works - is straight edged brass or alloy nipples with PHR washers and / or any other brands of nipples and those washers. If anyone else HAS I'd very much welcome comments below.
@@RyanBuildsWheels Ah.... right, thanks, that clears up my question! It would be a surprise to hear that brass nips were failing in that way, but with alloy I guess it must be something to do with the washer/nipple interface. I know some people say that there is can be an issue with slotted nipples collapsing inward, especially with spokes that are too short. Appreciate your reply mate!
At times we've had multiple builders and we check each others work on a random 'spot check' basis for good measure, but otherwise I'm glad to say that.- having been doing this for close to a decade and being in possession of some extremely accurate tools (see the 'Ryan Builds A Wheel' video...) - I'm able to be confident that my wheels are truly excellent ;-). On a serious note though; it's good practice to QC one's own work when a wheel is complete; I'll alway's have one last check for truing tolerances using the dial gauges of the P&K, and even if a wheel has been built by feel or by tone / ear when it comes to tension then I'll always run the tensio over the spokes to make sure there are no outliers.
Absolutely! If the rim bed is curved and they're a good fit I use them like that with much success when appropriate. Pete sells them separately on SpokesFromRyan.com if you're ever in need :-).
This depends entirely on the rim. In the case of most modern rims it's almost always not necessary *with the exception of the PHR rims from DT Swiss* these washers MUST be used because DT have saved weight on their high end rims by reducing the thickness of the spoke bed (thus the need for reinforcement) Especially light modern rims may benefit from washers, and - of course - should be used if manufactures stipulate or if you fear there is the chance of rim's forming cracks over time. An example; I never build the MK3 series of rims from Stan's No Tubes without washers as have seen many of them fail of the years, indeed, I only use these rims when the customer wants to match an existing build or already has the rims. Luckily the new MK4 series from Stan's is excellent. For single wall alloy rims I'd almost always use washers. For single wall vintage steel rims I can't say whether one MUST but they were often found on originals so I almost always use oval washers for that aesthetic detail. Carbon rims; entirely dependent! Most truly modern carbon rims don't require them but can benefit from washers, especially if one is fearful of galvanic corrosion...which is...an entirely different topic for another time ;-).
Great video! I completely agree on the superiority of Sapim aluminum nipples. I will use DT brass, because I have about a bazillion of them, but when it comes to aluminum, it is Sapim all the way.
True that!
Hi Ryan, I enjoyed this and your other videos too. Informative and straightforward whilst retaining a bit of fun....keep them coming. The short format works well👍👍
Awesome, thank you! Yes, I'm trying to keep the format shorter to start with; easier to edit and hopefully more engaging! Minus all the 'silly' bits my intention was to keep this to 5 minutes...I've just 'too much' knowledge to cram into that space it would seem ;-)>
Great videos Ryan, thank you for creating your channel. Do anodised alloy nips scratch when tensioning under higher tensions and if so, do you tension from the back on double square ones?
They certainly can do if overworked but this also depends on the quality of the anodising; you're quite right in saying that using Double Square or double drive nips of some sort can help solve this but another answer lies in quality spoke wrenches with a good fit; my favourites are the DT Swiss Proline or Monolith Tools right now; review of those below!
ua-cam.com/video/rU7lhlbvKRM/v-deo.html
Im guessing that this means with a DSN Nipple i would need to get slightly longer spokes? seems as the thread starts further up?
DSN gives you the *option* to spec a longer spoke for sure but also works A-OK with spokes set to the same depth as a standard slotted nipple.
Great video. Maybe after scouring the entire internet I will be able to order the parts for a set of cargo bike wheels knowing that everything fits well.
Sounds great and best of luck! You can do it!
Great vid, and there's Pete! Keep it up 😀
Thanks, will do! At the latest expect a new vid ready for Xmas :-)
Greetings from Seattle (originally from Bath).
I just discovered your channel and am enjoying your videos. Nice work. Btw, can you tell me more about your tea/coffee mug there? I see a quote from a Crass lyric but I can't quite read what it says on the mug (rendered on the mug) that has the spanner stirring the coffee.
In the spirit of your mug, when it comes to the question of whether or not I will be watching more of your videos in the future all I can say is that "Yes Sir, I Will". Cheers.
Welcome aboard @Al_Spence! Stoked to have you, especially seeing as you're originally from nearby! How long have you been in Seattle?
The Mug is very dear to me (Crisis! The handle finally snapped off the other day after over 7 years...)...and was dreamt up by my dear friend Rob; it was his brainchild but together he, I and others collectively founded a community workshop, punk gig venue, and veggie / vegan bike cafe in the heart of Bristol: in the spanner mug it says "Roll for the Soul", the name of the venue :-)
facebook.com/RftSBristol/
Rob now works at Bristol Bike Project and occasionally we still host gigs / collective jam sessions at RBW HQ ... all a story for another time I guess, it was a wild ride :-).
@@RyanBuildsWheels Thanks for the reply. My sister lives in Cardiff and is involved with an anarchist group there. I will ask her if she ever visited that cafe (probably). It sounds like it was a great spot. Bicycles and good food, always a great combination and pretty much describes what I've been up to for the last 25 years or so. I worked at a local natural foods co-op here in Seattle for many years as a cook, whilst teaching myself how to build bike frames in my spare time.
I've been living in Seattle since 1998. Moved here to work at a small framebuilding company that was fabricating high end lugged steel framesets. I spent 15 years putting together my own small shop, teaching myself how to braze, weld, machine etc. etc. Built my own frames, racks, stems, fixtures, tooling and so on. Sadly, it was all destroyed in wildfire (the Western US has been getting hit hard with fires lately) a few years back, so I've had to start from scratch again.
Now I work for a local university as a part of a small team of riders that use Bullitt cargo bikes to deliver mail/packages from the main mail processing facility, all over campus, and around the city too. The decision was made last summer to bring the maintenance of the bikes in house so I've been building out a workshop and equipping it with tools these last 6 months or so. Now I split my time as mechanic and delivery rider.
Anyway, that's how I found your channel. I've been giving myself a refresher course on wheelbuilding. We're pretty hard on wheels, given the heavy loads that we move around the city, and how crappy the roads are here. I want to make sure that I'm building wheels that will hold up to the abuse as long as possible.
I will be sure to comment on future videos!
Hi, thanks for the video! I have a Bontrager Kovee, double-wall, Tubeless-Ready, 28-hole, 23 mm width, Presta valve. Its new and the spoke nipples have been worn already. I dont know much about bikes but I have seen a video on how to change a spoke nipple with a screwdriver bit and it looks easy. Do I need a specific size nipple in these? Also, do you think me changing the nipples is ok and a good idea. Meaning, do you think its easy to mess up 😅 or does it need to be done by a professionals. Do you also think I need washers? Thanks 🤩
With the right research you should be A-OK although without seeing the wheel in person it's hard to tell: get yourself a spoke key and some kind of truing stand (even a pair of zipties around your frame or fork will work just fine) and it's certainly something that anyone can do!
HOWEVER! I don't reccomned replacing all nipples just for the sake of it; knowing what 'the nipples are worn' means would help but - in short - if the wheel is true, and the spokes aren't super loose I'd likely suggest leaving it be ;-).
If in doubt a trip to your LBS is likely the way to go!
Just wondering if there's an obvious reason why the standard brass nipples don't work well with the DT Swiss / PHR washers? I get the thing about the slot being a weak point generally - but is there something about the PHR design that stresses the nipple more than usual, and therefore makes a standard nipple more failure-prone?
It's the 'normal' (specifically I'm talking about Sapim's Polyax) head ALLOY nipples that I've had issues with on PHR washers...the *slight* difference in profile doesn't seem to play well with the edges of the PHR washer and I've seen the nipple head shear off from stress fractures over time, likely exacerbated by the interaction with the washer...never seen this with Polyax in brass so I'm putting it down to Brass simply being less brittle.
Sapim's Double Square nips have just a SLIGHT difference in profile vs their slotted options despite both coming under the Polyax label; zero issues.
What I don't have experience with - seeing as I've found a solution that works - is straight edged brass or alloy nipples with PHR washers and / or any other brands of nipples and those washers.
If anyone else HAS I'd very much welcome comments below.
@@RyanBuildsWheels Ah.... right, thanks, that clears up my question! It would be a surprise to hear that brass nips were failing in that way, but with alloy I guess it must be something to do with the washer/nipple interface. I know some people say that there is can be an issue with slotted nipples collapsing inward, especially with spokes that are too short. Appreciate your reply mate!
Great video Ryan
Mean a lot coming from you Matt :-)
How does the quality control at yours look like? Does anybody check how the job was done?
At times we've had multiple builders and we check each others work on a random 'spot check' basis for good measure, but otherwise I'm glad to say that.- having been doing this for close to a decade and being in possession of some extremely accurate tools (see the 'Ryan Builds A Wheel' video...) - I'm able to be confident that my wheels are truly excellent ;-).
On a serious note though; it's good practice to QC one's own work when a wheel is complete; I'll alway's have one last check for truing tolerances using the dial gauges of the P&K, and even if a wheel has been built by feel or by tone / ear when it comes to tension then I'll always run the tensio over the spokes to make sure there are no outliers.
Great video many thanks 👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thats answered a few of my questions on nipples and washers, can you use phr washers on non DT Swiss rims to strengthen the rim bed?
Absolutely! If the rim bed is curved and they're a good fit I use them like that with much success when appropriate. Pete sells them separately on SpokesFromRyan.com if you're ever in need :-).
Question: Is it necessary to use washers on the rims or can you leave them out?
This depends entirely on the rim. In the case of most modern rims it's almost always not necessary *with the exception of the PHR rims from DT Swiss* these washers MUST be used because DT have saved weight on their high end rims by reducing the thickness of the spoke bed (thus the need for reinforcement)
Especially light modern rims may benefit from washers, and - of course - should be used if manufactures stipulate or if you fear there is the chance of rim's forming cracks over time. An example; I never build the MK3 series of rims from Stan's No Tubes without washers as have seen many of them fail of the years, indeed, I only use these rims when the customer wants to match an existing build or already has the rims. Luckily the new MK4 series from Stan's is excellent.
For single wall alloy rims I'd almost always use washers.
For single wall vintage steel rims I can't say whether one MUST but they were often found on originals so I almost always use oval washers for that aesthetic detail.
Carbon rims; entirely dependent! Most truly modern carbon rims don't require them but can benefit from washers, especially if one is fearful of galvanic corrosion...which is...an entirely different topic for another time ;-).
@@RyanBuildsWheels thanks for the in-depth answer. Look forward to learning more :)
👍👍👍👍
Cheers Francesco!
@@RyanBuildsWheels Nice video! is it always necessary to put the washers between the nipples and the rim? I've never put them on!
@@francescolarosa8045 see my reply to @D10010101 above!
@@RyanBuildsWheels Sorry, where i can see the reply?