Cheers Ryan, thanks for confirming a lot of what taught myself, gives me the confidence knowing I am doing it right, loving the video's, great source of information, looking forward to your next ones.
Keep it up Eric! Nothing wrong with making sure we're getting things right and so glad that this has helped you in that regard! I look forward to helping you out further in the future :-)
I found a really nice downloadable spoke calculator that can calculate spokes for 2:1 (16/8) configurations as well as G3. It is a small executable that does not require installation. You can save hub and rim data (separately) for use on another build. I can post a link to it if that is allowed. It came from a cyclist in China and the "How to use" is in Chinese. But it is easy to figure out how to use it without the video. (Thanks for all the great helpful information on Wheel Building, Ryan!)
Great video Ryan, I have just recently invested in a second hand wheel truing jig, spoke tension meter and dishing gauge all for the bargain price of £45 - what's not to like👍 Although I have built wheels before, which have served me well, hoping to take things to the next level with the new kit and your advice and tips😀 Wishing you a Happy New Year and keep the top notch content coming🙏
Right on! Second hand is defintely THE way to go if you want a bargain; £45 for all that is stunning price and will definitely help make some next level wheels :-).
I need some of that straight pull and 16/8 with offset rim information to get this next build right. Thanks for these great videos. (shout out to Sean Lally for getting me connected to your channel via his online training courses).
It's all good practice! Hope and DT are great for their provided measurements as manufacturers (though double checking is never going to hurt), the real thing to be wary of is *other peoples* measurements :-D!!!
Really really ace. Such a helpful video and for the first time I “got it” regarding hub measurements and how it all works. Thanks! One query - using that spoke calculator, will it flag red warnings of the spoke tension ratio is poor / should not be used. 100% | 45% seems a wee bit low on the DS (front wheel) but being a newbie - I’m not sure how “bad” that really is? (Defo like that it shows the calculation!)
Certainly! One of the reasons that Spoke Length Project's calculator is so good is that it takes into account spoke stretch via Young's Modulus so as not to return spoke length suggestions that are too long. (A given - known - material will stretch by an amount when placed under tension; the calculator uses the cross section given for the spoke in question to calculate this, under the assumption that most modern wheels are built to roughly 120kg of force). Visit the calculation link below and hit 'log': you'll see that for a 1.5mm section spoke such as the DT Revolution, Sapim Laser or CX Ray etc, you'd expect the spokes to stretch by almost 0.8mm! spokelength-project.com/calculator/?a=31&b=31&c=39&d=39&f=2.6&j=600&k=&l=&n=32&s=3&t=3&u=1.5&R=1.5&o=0&g=0&e=&r=
My front wheel should have a left spoke length of 284.5mm, I ordered 284 should I have gotten 285?. Spokes on the right should be 285.5, do I get 284 or 286? My rears left should be 284.5 I ordered 284mm Should I have gone 285? And the right should be 282.9 do I get 282 or 283? Thanks
If you're using the method / calculator I suggest in this video (SpokeLenghtProject) then ALWAYS round up yes :-)>. This is to guard against the risk of having too little thread above the 'shoulder' of your nipples and to protect against them snapping where they're weakest (especially if alloy, being more brittle than brass) but note that this is dependent on how you've measure ERD and - if using ERD Sticks (see my video on the subject: two links below) - how you've got the 'depth' of the stick setup. General rule of thumb to play it safe though: AWALYS ROUND UP. Anyone offering custom cut spokes (www.SpokesFromRyan.com!!!) can offer spokes in any mm length so going odd numbers isn't a problem. If you can only access even sized spokes then rounding up is still usually preferable. VIDZ: -How to measure ERD correctly: ua-cam.com/video/-St4HoJhLEA/v-deo.html -How to make your own ERD Sticks: ua-cam.com/video/VSrEv67KgbY/v-deo.html
Cheers Ryan, thanks for confirming a lot of what taught myself, gives me the confidence knowing I am doing it right, loving the video's, great source of information, looking forward to your next ones.
Keep it up Eric! Nothing wrong with making sure we're getting things right and so glad that this has helped you in that regard! I look forward to helping you out further in the future :-)
Excellent video. Thank you so much for being so generous with your knowledge
My pleasure! I'll keep em coming whenever I can :-)
I found a really nice downloadable spoke calculator that can calculate spokes for 2:1 (16/8) configurations as well as G3. It is a small executable that does not require installation. You can save hub and rim data (separately) for use on another build. I can post a link to it if that is allowed. It came from a cyclist in China and the "How to use" is in Chinese. But it is easy to figure out how to use it without the video. (Thanks for all the great helpful information on Wheel Building, Ryan!)
vy all means go for it!
Excellent video!! Thank you Ryan!! Malc 😃🛠👍
Appreciate the continued support Malcolm! Keep those nipples turning! ;-)
This is amazing! Thank you good sir!
You're very welcome!
Great video Ryan, I have just recently invested in a second hand wheel truing jig, spoke tension meter and dishing gauge all for the bargain price of £45 - what's not to like👍
Although I have built wheels before, which have served me well, hoping to take things to the next level with the new kit and your advice and tips😀
Wishing you a Happy New Year and keep the top notch content coming🙏
Right on! Second hand is defintely THE way to go if you want a bargain; £45 for all that is stunning price and will definitely help make some next level wheels :-).
Thanks!
No problem!
I need some of that straight pull and 16/8 with offset rim information to get this next build right. Thanks for these great videos. (shout out to Sean Lally for getting me connected to your channel via his online training courses).
It's on the list :-)
Next wheel I build I will measure the hub myself. I have trusted the manufacturer drawings thus far. DT Swiss and Hope.
It's all good practice! Hope and DT are great for their provided measurements as manufacturers (though double checking is never going to hurt), the real thing to be wary of is *other peoples* measurements :-D!!!
Really really ace. Such a helpful video and for the first time I “got it” regarding hub measurements and how it all works. Thanks!
One query - using that spoke calculator, will it flag red warnings of the spoke tension ratio is poor / should not be used. 100% | 45% seems a wee bit low on the DS (front wheel) but being a newbie - I’m not sure how “bad” that really is? (Defo like that it shows the calculation!)
Glad it helped! Off the top of my head it will flag anything below 40%.
That was so useful - thank you 🙂. No Elvis?
Oh, he's there! You'll just have to watch again ;-)
Please make the straight pull hubs. How should i measure the hub to calculete the spoke length? Congratulations for the awesome work!
Covering this in a future video ABSOLUTELY! It can be tricky ;-)
On the calculation, it mentions spoke tension. Can you explain that bit, please Ryan?
Certainly! One of the reasons that Spoke Length Project's calculator is so good is that it takes into account spoke stretch via Young's Modulus so as not to return spoke length suggestions that are too long. (A given - known - material will stretch by an amount when placed under tension; the calculator uses the cross section given for the spoke in question to calculate this, under the assumption that most modern wheels are built to roughly 120kg of force).
Visit the calculation link below and hit 'log': you'll see that for a 1.5mm section spoke such as the DT Revolution, Sapim Laser or CX Ray etc, you'd expect the spokes to stretch by almost 0.8mm!
spokelength-project.com/calculator/?a=31&b=31&c=39&d=39&f=2.6&j=600&k=&l=&n=32&s=3&t=3&u=1.5&R=1.5&o=0&g=0&e=&r=
@@RyanBuildsWheelsthis is epic!
thanks for the info! the calculator now cost a one time fee.
Yep: you also get Roger's book which is updated over time so well worth the small expense I feel 👍🏻.
My front wheel should have a left spoke length of 284.5mm, I ordered 284 should I have gotten 285?. Spokes on the right should be 285.5, do I get 284 or 286?
My rears left should be 284.5 I ordered 284mm Should I have gone 285? And the right should be 282.9 do I get 282 or 283?
Thanks
If you're using the method / calculator I suggest in this video (SpokeLenghtProject) then ALWAYS round up yes :-)>.
This is to guard against the risk of having too little thread above the 'shoulder' of your nipples and to protect against them snapping where they're weakest (especially if alloy, being more brittle than brass) but note that this is dependent on how you've measure ERD and - if using ERD Sticks (see my video on the subject: two links below) - how you've got the 'depth' of the stick setup.
General rule of thumb to play it safe though: AWALYS ROUND UP. Anyone offering custom cut spokes (www.SpokesFromRyan.com!!!) can offer spokes in any mm length so going odd numbers isn't a problem. If you can only access even sized spokes then rounding up is still usually preferable.
VIDZ:
-How to measure ERD correctly: ua-cam.com/video/-St4HoJhLEA/v-deo.html
-How to make your own ERD Sticks: ua-cam.com/video/VSrEv67KgbY/v-deo.html