Відео

The car has a five speed, so the ratios are super long compared to the six speed. It makes things simple but the car falls way out of power band in the low speed corners.

Probably got like 1-2 more mph through T4 on the V730s based on previous laps. I think the downshift is necessary in T6 because I experimented with staying in fourth and it loses like a quarter second in the corner exit. This engine seems to love high revs and the five speed ratios are pretty far apart with third as 1.0 and fourth as 1.33. I'd dip to ~4300 RPM in fourth for min speed on V730s and the car just feels gutless at that rpm. I think the tradeoff gets more interesting though with CRS as there's a hypothetical 81+ mph vmin in good conditions where staying in fourth would be a bit higher in the rev range.

@@joeyzhu7139 yeah I just realized you're able to floor it for quite a while in 3rd. That downshift is absolutely not worth it in my car, but I have way more torque and less grip. You should experiment with basically burning the clutch to slowdown instead of braking, shifting, then getting back on the gas

Replace brake pedal with another gas pedal

Just light brakes through the entire thing and hope that I don't run out of skill

"Carry more speed" "Brake less" LOL. At some point the garmin is just gonna say "next right, find the gas pedal"

@@IanKorf That sounds good, I'll have to try staying in 4th next time.

The rear is a GoPro Hero 11. I sort of just guess and check in DaVinci Resolve based on where I down or upshift and try to make the sound in both videos match up as closely as possible.

@@404nobrakes yea probably low 1:55s maybe 1:54s in cooler weather. Didn't get to pull a hero lap in the first session because I was a bit late and got sent out after the fast cars were finishing their warmup lap 🙃.

Setup and spring rates are in the description. I am on the softer end of the adjustment range because there's 27 clicks of rebound adjustment on the dampers. The car is intentionally set up to understeer steady state and has very quick rotation while trail braking. My philosophy for tuning has been to first figure out whether it was my inputs causing understeer or oversteer by reviewing data and then making changes based on whether there was something I didn't like on corner entry, steady state cornering, or corner exit. For me, my understeer biased setup works pretty well if I can manage my inputs well.

I've been trying to do the 3->2 shift as late as possible recently but before I start turning in and the grinding seems to happen less frequently (I suspect due to lower RPMs). I also changed out my rear differential bushings for poly bushings from Mazda Motorsports (it's just the Whiteline bushings) and that helped quite a bit. I think it's common between the 5 and 6 speeds when quickly shifting as a few of my buddies have this happen as well. I also noticed that slowing down my shifts helped mitigate a lot of the grinding. This day I was using some redline fluid over the ford motorcraft and seemed to have less grinding but the shifts are much notchier with the redline fluid.

@@joeyzhu7139 do you have WeChat? We have a over 100 of people in a group and share thoughts. Want to join?

​@@The_Yellow_NC I don't have WeChat but I have discord that I check somewhat frequently

I'll work on letting the revs get lower before blipping. Any ideas on what to do for the straight to T6 after the esses? Slamming into the rev limiter for several seconds is probably not optimal for engine health. I'm wondering whether I would lose a lot of time by just upshifting into fourth and staying there for T6, then doing 4-3-2 at T7. Makes things a bit busy though. I'm also thinking that I am overslowing for T4 and fixing that would make my speeds a bit higher resulting in the need to upshift to 4th on the straight to T6.

@@joeyzhu7139 It's not about letting the revs drop. If you clutch in too early, you end up waiting a long time before shifting. If the revs drop and you feed the clutch, you didn't match revs. Keeping in gear longer before using the clutch keeps the revs in the transmission longer so that when you blip shift you don't have to feed the clutch. But you can't do this early in the brake zone or you will wreck the engine. Just brake a second longer before blipping and shifting. Riding the rev limiter isn't going to damage your engine. Driving a higher gear is sometimes faster and often instructive. Similarly, shifting 4-3-2 in T7 and T4 is also instructive. Do some sessions where you're just "practicing" and not as focused on lap time. Practice one time with higher gears everywhere. Practice another time with lots of shifting. Then overlay the data traces when you get home. BTW, I also have an MX5 (PRHT and auto), but I haven't even taken it to the track. I've sort of retired from real racing. I like watching you enjoy your MX-5 while you get faster. You're doing great.