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Brilliant tutorial series! I learned so much, and really dig your Star Wars design aesthetic and approach to making these cases and armor sets feel so authentic. Amazing work! ❤

Thanks for a great video, I like to watch passively at work. Your audio was a bit low but I definitely understand!! Have a great weekend

Ha, with all the prob up do. Could you possibly make a "bigger" camtono, and if you do film it? All the vids I've seen are just mods of the galaxy edge one.

Just wanted to let you know how much I enjoyed your videos. Especially this one regarding the electronics. I started doin my own a few yeara ago and wish I had seen this video then.

What is the process you use for making the dents in your helmets?

Wow! This is just amazing, recently found your videos since getting into 3D printing. I wanted to ask, how do you get those custom LED displays into your work, like in 20:03 ?

Awesome tutorial and inspiring work! Pro tip for reducing the "staircase" effect of layers on curved surfaces: in you slicer software, like Prusa Slicer, you can enable "variable layer height" which can apply smaller layer heights for curved portions of the model, while using a larger layer height for relatively straight portions. Good balance for quality and time!

I’m fairly new to prop making and just watched all 5 of your videos in a row. Thank you! They were clear and detailed. Can’t wait to try them myself.

That looks really nice but I could never work around chemicals like that. Bondo, acetone, sanding dust... my asthma would flare up for days after.

Hey Mr.OddViking, I'm fresh to 3D printing, could I get these results with a Resin Printer? I reckon there would be less filler and sanding needed, but with a smaller printer pad

There is many other ways to get the results you want but without so much sanding and labor. All the videos I see of 3D printers do so much work to cover up the printed texture and use inferior products. This is because they don’t know what’s available or the process.

I like to weather the weathering lol. Use scotch brine pad to add new scratches over the weathering. More depth more better

Do you recommend the rustoleum filler primer ? I’ve seen some people say it’s gone downhill. Trying to figure out which brand to buy. Thank you !

Hi! I stumbled on your video while researching for layer line filling techniques. I love that you didnt skip any part of the process and was very clear about your process and the steps. I designed a custom speaker mount for home theatre and printed it using PLA. Will the acetone + Bondo putty melt through PLA just like ABS? The speaker mount is load bearing (bearing the weight of the speaker) and I cannot let acetone affect the durability of PLA. What would be an alternative to cover up the layer lines in this case? For the final coat of paint (clear or matte) what would be the most durable coating? The speakers are in-wall mount speakers and I'm afraid that the paint layer will delaminate from the vibration coming from the speaker over time.

Sorry if this was answered in the video already, but should I be adding the deeper scratches and damages before or after coating with primer? I just finished adding bondo onto my parts and was deciding what I should be doing next. Anyways, thanks for the awesome content! This series has been very helpful for me.

Dang I wish I had seen this video years earlier. This process looks much more efficient than how I was doing it. Great job. Will be using this method for my next project, Helldiver armor.

so when your print is in multiple pieces, do you want to prep them all for paint seperatly and tape the connection areas off like you did. or glue them together first and then do the whole bondo process?

Loving this series as I put together my first armor set. Thanks!

Awesome video, thank you for taking the time, truly appreciated. Do you have any tips on how we can get a rough texture similar to how it look on the bottom of a textured plate after a print, but all over?

This is so helpful !! Thank you very much

this was a great video. love your passion for prop making

what was this printed with, ABS? Same sort of approach for PLA / other materials?

Awesome video! Thanks for taking the time and going through your process. I love the idea of bondo and acetone!

This is a great video series. I have a question regarding Mando armor. Since it is made of "beskar" would you recommend less physical weathering as it is supposed to be a stronger armor?

My current skill level is about where yours was in 2019. I'm starting to really refine these processes and get a feel for just how "finished" I want my pieces to be. So this was super helpful, and your work looks amazing! When I first checked your etsy I thought: OMG! No way he's selling these helmets for $15?! Then I realized that was for the 3d model. So I'm curious what kind of price you do, or could get for a finished helmet? I'm trying to find the right balance between how much time I spend vs how much I charge. I'm mostly still in the personal-hobby zone but I've been getting some requests for custom work. Thanks again for the video! This is gold!

This is an awesome video! Reminded me of a How it's made on DIY network or something. Thanks for the in depth explanation and demonstration this was so worth the hour watch! Hope to see your channel blow up!

If you use wet or dry 3M sandpaper you can sand with water. It'll keep you from breathing in all the dust and keep the sandpaper from clogging up. I also recommend using sanding blocks. I use Dura-Block but they aren't cheap. Also, be aware that glazing putty was meant to fill in pits and tiny scratches so it is going to be soft. Even fully cured it's soft. One can use light weight body filler bondo thinned with fiberglass resin but it will be more difficult to work with.

Use a respirator around the acitone man.

Do you have a tutorial on how to make the Stormtrooper helmet case? If not what types of flower pots and hardware did you use? The Home Depot cart is no longer available, any thoughts on a suitable replacement? Excellent videos by the way!

I always wondered why cosplay 3d print channels were not using bondo. This method is much more effective than the several layer of filler primer and sanding to get the same result. I never want to recreate a process that has been around for decades with car body repair.

Great work! Thank you for sharing your talent. Speaking of sandpaper, for PLA filaments, what do you find is the better sanding medium, Alumina, garnet? What about wet dry? Do you find that the filament retains water? Thanks again. Cheers.

this is going to save me from a lot of headaches or expectations (first timer for 3D printing, haven't printed anything yet but am starting with mando armor so this really helped me plan for the post processing)

I've used allot of these methods and the one that I find that works extreamly well is UV resin for resin printers specially for extreamly deep print lines like on the top of the helmet it fills in well and in some cases self levels if you hold it perpendicular to the ground on flat surfaces and it can be easily sanded. It can be cured with a UV light or left in the sun for up to 5 minutes to fully cure then I will go over it with filler primer to fill in the minor layer lines. I've acutally done a full Mando helmet with the UV resin in one day fully smoothed and with a light sanding to create a good paint surface to stick to it was ready to paint the next day with gloss black and then the finally finished off with graphite powder for the shinny chrome look.

Did you print the mando helmet on vase mode?

Just finished my first print with this method and holy cow - what a difference! How would you go back to redo painted pieces that still show lines?

its too much time consumine use abs or abs pro

Which video is it that you show the metal/metallic underlayer? That’s the one I want to see

I have used wood filler with some success molding and then casting 3D printed masters.... do you think Bondo can be thinned enough to fill layer lines on finely detailed statuary as to keep the detail?

For those in australia and can't get access to bondo spot putty sand your prop with an 80, 100, 200, 300. Then brush uv resin over the top and once cured sand again with 600 grit then filler prime

I've been doing 3d prints for awhile but this video was exactly what I needed to really up the quality of my process and especially future cosplays. Thank you very much for sharing this knowledge and workflow in-depth! As a new 501st member, I bet this will help a lot of other newcomers too o7

So is the acetone safe for ABS once mixed with the bondo? I am going to be working on a mask with horse teeth that are realistically textured on purpose , do you think just the liquid bondo could fill it without losing any intentional grooves and not having to sand too much?

Wow, this is the video! I 3D printed a whole Iron Man suit without really thinking about how to finish it perfectly. You just showed me how....looks like I have a lot of sanding to do 😅 Thank for this very informative video

Will there be anymore videos? I enjoy watching and listening how you work whilst working in my own projects as it gives me ideas and techniques and I see you upload on insta often, even just videos of you working on projects with the odd hints would be great to see!❤

god tier upload

Definitive guide. Thanks for what you’ve done for the community!

great stuff very detailed thankyou

I'd like to suggest a charcoal activated respirator to save your liver! And a sanding block. I give the layer lines the once over with a sanding block and the amount of filling is greatly reduced.

I thank God for my Bambu and also knowledge of how to place my models on the print bed for a perfect smooth finish. i am now able to achieve quality finish without sanding and my AMS Lite is a dream for color printing

wowza !!

Love your props and thank you for the tutorials