Відео

Happy New Year to you too!

Thanks for watching. You know what they say about riding a bike.... Once a welder, always a welder

Hi John. Thanks for watching. I hope it helps you out. The best way to get your settings started is to use the chart on the inside of the lid. It's pretty accurate. I would suggest starting off with the .030 wire. Flux core burns pretty hot. Until you learn to control it, the .030 will be easier when learning. I've found that that chart is usually pretty spot-on, but all situations are different. Make adjustments after trying the chart setting. If you have any questions, please just ask me. If it helps, you can go to the front page of my channel and go to the "Community" tab. I've put my email address in there. Don't be afraid to use it!!! I'm planning on making a Flux Core Masterclass video soon. Keep an eye out for it

Thanks bud

Happy New Year to you too! Glad it's working again. I do my best to keep you guys working.

@AllStarWeldingSC yes sir! We appreciate it.

Well, that's just fancy editing! Haha

Thanks Ron. Happy New Year to you too buddy.

I hear ya! You can learn so much from the small stuff. I've been wanting to do more videos with actually working on something, but I keep forgetting to bring my camera with me. I have a video on here of me doing a full handrail job.

Thanks buddy, you too!

Ugh! I've been fighting the ick for a few weeks now. The more I talk, l start losing my voice. Look at the end of the video about Flux core wire and you'll see what I mean. Happy New Year 🎊

You too! I hope 2025 is good to you.

Thanks for the comment. I love that band file sander. My old one lasted about 15 years, so it was ready to retire. The new Bauer model is way better than the old Central Electric version. It's a bit more robust and heavier, and I think a more powerful motor. On those inside corners, a wire wheel or flap disk just wouldn't be able to get it done. Happy New Year!!

Haha... I think in the video I slipped up and called it a band file saw

The best way to control spatter in good wire. But more importantly is getting the tip as close to the puddle as you can, but still maintaining control. This is hard to explain, so bare with me .... Flux core puddle cools quickly, and the flux covers the puddle even quicker, to protect it. If the puddle is starting to cool and being covered with flux, new wire has a harder time injecting into it, and tends to bounce off until it can heat it back up to accept more wire when it gets to molten. If you get the tip of the gun closer, two things will happen... 1) the little bit of wire stickout will be stiffer, as opposed to being longer and able to bend, thereby being able to "jab" into the puddle more easier, and 2) the arc cycles will be closer and able to keep the puddle more molten, and thereby making it more able to receive the shorter wire (from #1) to jab into it. Does this make sense? Again, it's hard to explain in a text. Picture this.... Imagine if you have a toothpick 8" long. Hold it at the far end and jab it into an orange. It will break, right? And the pieces will fall all over the place. Now, take a similar toothpick and hold it 1/4" from the tip and jab the orange. It's going right in pretty easily. And you can keep doing it very quickly many, many times before it finally breaks. But it will be a clean break and probably remain in the orange. Same thing is going on with the wire.

Thanks!

I just knew that someone was going to snag one of these after seeing my video. I can't believe you actually saw one at the store. That's like spotting Big Foot

Well .... Considering all I use this for is 95% on handrails, it's my go-to. But obviously, thicker material will need adjustment. I used it the other day on G-7. The chart on the lid is pretty accurate, then adjust from there. But I wouldn't say my settings are across the board.

Thanks for watching. It's a handy tool.

On the Outlaw? I use Flex-A-Prene #1. I have 20 ft on ground, and 30ft on work lead. And I have 2 sections of 50ft that I can add inline if I need it.

@ Thank you

And my rod holder of choice is the Jackson JH1. Around $40. Easy to hold, and the spring handle isn't so far out. Easier for guys like me with arthritis. Check it out

$38 on Amazon

Thanks, I really appreciate you watching!

Yes, I know. But this is exactly how the customer wanted it. Suited to what he was doing I guess.

I mean I guess in that case u do what he wants

I tried to talk him into the bolt on option several times. It's been a while, but I forgot his reasoning. But that's the way he wanted it. Who am I to judge, 😂

This is exactly what he wanted. He didn't want it bolted. I don't know why. But he's the customer and it's his tractor.

Oh no... What happened?

Practice all of them. And do it flat, vertical, and overhead too

I absolutely agree, especially when they don't have electric start, like the Outlaw does.

Yeah, I have the Primeweld 225 and MTS200. I'm not too keen on taking those out of the shop. I have taken the MTS200 out for a spoolgun job only once. Most of my field work is stick or flux core. This machine does great on stick, not a single complaint. For flux core, I either use the Titanium Flux 125, or the Primeweld 160. I've also used it to power the 160 in stick mode for some stainless stick work in a commercial kitchen with 308L rod.

Thanks for watching! And thanks for the comment.

Very nice! I enjoyed watching that. Have you tried TIG on these projects?

I thought it was crazy, until I did it. One thing that I discovered in this process, is that I have to buy 2 of everything. 1 for the shop, and 1 for the truck.

That's awesome! It's good to hear that from another welder. It's the perfect machine for building handrails on-site. Trying to do gas Mig in the wind doesn't work, and some of this handrail is so thin that stick isn't a good solution either. I don't know much about Canada, but I have heard of a store called Princess Auto?? I think the Century machines are popular up there too

That's awesome! I bet I know what you are doing this weekend, 😆. If you haven't seen it yet, there is another video on my channel that you might want to watch. It's called "How to weld like a pro... " Or something like that.

@AllStarWeldingSC 👍

Well, like I tell people, there are several other patterns, and it's good to practice them all. What's good for flat, might not be good for vertical, or overhead, etc. Thanks for the comment, and have a great weekend!

@@AllStarWeldingSC Yes i had 6 month welding class but with stick and learned a little mig and tig

Oh my Lord... I forgot I made that. I had to go see what you were talking about. 😂

There are so many variables as to when and why. That's when your expertise and practice will come into play. Instead of practicing just on flat pieces on your work table, change things up a bit. Set some pieces vertically. Hang a piece of the edge of your table, get down on your knees and practice welding underneath it. Practice thinner pieces to thicker pieces. There's really no theory to it. Just practicing and remembering what works and what doesn't.

@@AllStarWeldingSC ty. I'm just spooked of getting shocked.

I really don't understand what you are asking. Can you explain further? I would like to help you.

@@AllStarWeldingSC I guess I mean the "neg" clamp, and where is best to attach w/out getting shocked. I've heard some say the clamp is ACTUALLY positive, and the wire gun is negative. idk. ty

No. Those are a little beyond my scope of expertise. Haha. I know they are bad to the bone

@ our powder coating/sand blasting set up uses a big ol inger sol 50hp electric one… massive monster… but she’s about to be down for a few weeks so I can replace/upgrade the cooler and do some maintenance But I’d like to see if I can upgrade our 80gallon speed air 5z637A from a single stage 17cfm to a two stage or 3 stage to handle a little more CFM so I can do cabinet blasting and hvlp painting with it.

That would be cool.

You want it right enough to where it doesn't come unraveled on its own, but loose enough so that the drive wheels can still pull the wire off. Good luck with your practice. Come back and let us know how it's going

Also, I’ll see if I can email you a link to the plasma cutting table I’m looking at it’s fairly affordable compared to its competitors.

Thanks. This one took a while to make for sure

No problem John!

I agree 100%

Merry Christmas to you too! Thanks for subscribing. Welcome aboard. There are several videos on here for you to watch. Let me know if you have any questions about anything.

Merry Christmas! I've heard good things about them, but I haven't used one yet.

Yeah, 35/70, the big ones. For that video, I messed up when I built that tig torch and ordered 35/50, and it would go in the connection, but was too short to twist and lock it. So I had to re-make it. For leads..... I use Flex-A-Prene #1 wire. I have 20ft on ground, and 30ft in the stinger. I also carry two 50ft extensions that I can drop in if I need to. So far, I haven't had to use them. About 2 years ago, I built a pintle hitch plate for a dump truck. It was 1" plate. But, asking max thickness is irrelevant. With beveling and multiple passes, I could do 5" thick if I wanted to. There's not really a maximum thickness. When a welding machine states a maximum thickness, that's on a single pass. This Outlaw will burn up to 5/32 rods, so it's up to you.

I appreciate the feedback. I'm trying to find the 35-70 connectors online. Going to grab some 1/0 so if I ever need to go up to a 250 machine, I'll have the leads for it. I see 35-50s everywhere. My Tweco stinger from welding school (12 years ago) has the LC40 on it, so finding the adapters is twice the excitement. Your videos on this machine definitely persuaded my purchase. I'll be using for a while before/if I decide to upgrade. Again, much appreciated.

Thank you for your comments. When I got through editing, I saw it was 49 minutes long! Longest video I've ever made. So I learned how to do the chapters. I don't use acetylene anymore. I switched over to propane 2 years ago and I love it. I had a guy pop in yesterday that needed 1 1/4" plate cut. He laughed when I said I was using propane. When I was done, he complimented me on how well I knew my trade. Hahaha. Plasma still has a home in my shop. Last year I made 65 Jack-o'-lanterns for Halloween out of freon tanks. Plasma was the ideal setup for that. One handed operation, straight clean cuts.

I'm sure i will make the change to propane eventually. I got the oxy acetylene set up with tanks for 50 bucks at a swap meet like 5 years ago and the tanks haven't run out yet. I mostly use it to heat straighten/shrink or bend things. I do car related fabrication mostly so mostly work with sheet metal that cuts pretty well in the bandsaw or cut off wheel. Plasma definitely has the advantage in clean cuts and saving time. I can't even wrap my head around how cheap they've gotten

Right? I remember when the most basic plasma was over $1000, now you can get one for $200.

Thanks for the support, I'm planning a lot more tutorials.

I think you're right, number 2 was good! Nothing to it but some practice. When I build hand rails on-site, I use a combination of all 4 of those, based on if I'm doing it underneath, on top, on the side, thicknesses.

Well, if it's just straight angles, you can just miter cut like you would with wood. If you need to curve it, I use rolling machines, or heat it with a rosebud torch then bend it

I'm happy you subscribed and hope you enjoy the other videos. I have many videos for you to watch, and more to come. Make sure you click the notification bell, because I give away a lot of stuff and you don't want to miss your chance!

I'm glad you learned something, and thanks for the compressor build request. I hope you have a Merry Christmas too!