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It's good practice to do so and I always do so when possible, especially in sleeping accomodation They shouldn't really be used on final fire exits as these need one action to open the door but there are other solutions for these types of doors.

Thanks, it did the job!

Hi Brian, www.thegreenwaysolar.co.uk/images/schematic-ac.png That is pretty much my setup

Thanks for that, does this installation allow for charging the battery using cheap rate night time tariff.

@@brianwebb3699 Hi I still have a dumb meter so I haven't set that bit up but It can be done on this inverter using inputs or time of day etc the app has agile pricing displayed. When I'm upgraded i will get this set up and do another video

Hi the blue rods are just silverline 10mm rods ebay.us/aVeOAl the orange ones are CK mightyrod ebay.us/hmSiF0 blue ones are the most flexible, but because they are smaller they do not last as long as the bigger ones. When you buy the fob pack it comes with RFID cards that are used to program fobs the fobs, ban fobs, door times, silent function etc Hope that helps

@@Funeve thank you very much.

Hi Shawn, The switch2 can come with it's own enclosure and power supply but they are only 1amp which isn't enough to power a maglock. (Tiny one might be ok or a solenoid type lock would be fine) You'll find the PSUs will die after a while because they can't drive the load. That's why I used a third party one 🙂 hope that helps ?

And yes you can do what you are asking

@@Funeve that’s helped very much, thanks a lot! Thought it would be the same as Net2 Pro as Ive seen locks powered straight from the controller - assume it outputs the required power where switch2 doesn’t!

@@Funeve sorry, did you suggest that this is possible then? Also, I’ve seen many ways for locks on controllers to be wired - 12v into com, nc/no to positive on lock, 0v to negative on lock - 12v to nc/no, com to positive on lock, 0v to negative on lock - 12v to positive on lock, 0v to nc/no, com to negative on lock. Are all of these typically OK providing its giving suitable power to that particular lock?

Any of those methods work, as the relay is just a switch - the 0v is commonly used to drop power to a lock but if your door is metal then it can pick up ground from the building which makes the lock unreliable (it may not unlock, as it's not losing ground) if that makes sense? So you'd switch the 12v instead

*2917 W

Yes it did drop, because of clouds coming over :(

I'll try next time they need cleaning 😁

Thanks James, I agree with your comments - the only difficulty at the minute is having consistent sunshine!

@@Funeve Not for me I moved from England to Southern California 50 years ago 🍺 I have a 7.29 kWh in solar panels and got 48kWh today I average 30 for home including a pool and a Model Y the rest I put in the utilities bank for Rainey days

@@jjamespacbell amazing I have 4kw and the best days usually net 20kwh - definitely not envious of your climate and car 👀😄

@@Funeve You have way better pubs though, I do miss those

Thanks for the comment Steve, yes I think that would of helped, they do get seriously hot.

Ah, very sound reasoning. Cooling definitely helped.

After I had cleaned them i noticed a couple of lichen bits so had to use some chemicals on them, definitely an improvement - the clouds didn't help with the comparing the gains, took the opportunity I got. Well worth getting some, mine have been in for 9 years or so and have paid for themselves 3 x over by now

@@Funeve hi, I have the solar panels but considering the cost of adding batteries. At the moment I am about to add 2.5 kw of additional panels on the south facing roof of garage to add to the east facing 5kw that I already have. (The cheaper option atm for coverage later into the day ) but a battery is possibly for next year.

@@tonyfrewin4822 I did make a video about my battery performance - how much they cost and how much they saved, I think it was something like a 9 year pay back! I have permission from the DNO to add another 4kw onto my East facing roof, to catch morning sun, so at some point I will get that done☺

@@Funeve that’s probably a good idea. My system is only just over the year so I am getting 15p / unit from Octopus but having worked out the revenue from selling back and adding the saved units at cost price, I think it more or less pays for all my electricity and gas. I have fitted a small heat pump in our main living area so use that when there is some excess power and it is chilly just to save running the central heating.

Thanks for the kind comment Tony, yes that makes total sense, I should be somewhere near in about October for it to be used, I can only manage working on my project in my free time - which isn't much!

Thanks for the tip, I'll have a look for one the next time I visit a Lidl - great username btw haha

Yes it does, it gives you state of charge, charging rate and discharging rate all in kWh

Thanks 😊

So nice of you thanks 👌

Could you be able actually show or display a schematics of the connections that would be good

@@nick2207 there is one at 20:55

Sorry must have missed it thanks

Yes it's not food grade co2

Thanks for letting me know! What would you recommend instead ?

Thanks for watching Jaroslav :-)

Thanks for watching 🙂🙂

This one was local to me, i'm in the midlands, bit of a gamble not knowing what caused the cap to go but fairly certain it wasn't wired to the drawing. Hopefully it will do it's job when I'm ready to use it 👌

@@Funeve good job on fixing it. Maybe expoed capacitors are a common issue? I seem to remember the listing having a picture of a really similar set of melted wires near a capacitor. What are you going to use it for?

@@jamesdc1993 Could be, there's a few videos relating to AC systems with the same issue, but for a £12 fix can't complain. I am going to use it to heat a future swimming pool - buying things when they appear to save a few pounds 😄

Not sure, i can hear myself (cringe)

Thanks for taking the time to write that Michael, I just looked at the wiring diagram in the manual and it does show it how you've described, so I'll get that sorted. Practice makes perfect 😌

Hi Dan, It goes to the Solis supplied meter thing. I can't quite remember how it was wired without looking at it

@@MontyBurnsEsq thanks mate. I couldn’t see a meter so I wasn’t sure if it ran into your AC Isolator lol. Great video

Thanks, sounds a good tip to try out :-)

Something worked out for a change haha

Hi thanks the switch2 is standalone, for pc control you would use the net2 plus version which has a TCP/IP rj45 port and the software is called net2 and is free. Hope that helps

@@Funeve Cheers thanks for the help!

The one I have is still available on their website 😃

@@Funeve their website is down i think

@@Funeve is it still working ur one is better as its stainless steel

@@asianking187 - yes no problems with it at all not even changed batteries. I just looked on the website and my version is out of stock there are a couple available on the ebay link, but maybe they are going end of life which is a shame as I think they look great

@@Funeve i had the black one had to get two replaced due to battery my batteries didjt last a week!

I didn't film it but the red cable is connected to the relay on a Apollo xp95 input output module

Hi sorry, forgetting the break glass unit, how does the magnet connect to the Paxton module? How does the monitoring work? Is it a 12v positive and negative to magnet then a common and normally closed pair from magnet to Paxton unit? Thanks.

@@mark6098 The paxton has a relay onboard which will open if a correct for or the exit button is pressed, 12v straight to the mag and the negative goes through the Common and normally closed pair on the controller relay to facilitate unlocking. The monitoring contact on the maglock is just a relay that will change state depending on if the maglock has latched on to the plate or not, this can be used to connect to an alarm input on the controller with a sounder also

No it takes 2 and combines them for the 36v motor 🪚

That's right. I mainly use the battery for doing exactly this it's nice and quiet and the petrol for felling and larger diameter cutting

It's never locked from the inside, the handle operates like a normal multipoint lock handle, lift up to engage the multipoint from the inside or outside. Push down from the inside to open, if you haven't entered the code / tag / fingerprint on the outside it won't open until you present a valid credential then it works as a normal lock for the time set on the app

@@Funeve Thanks for replying. So if someone broke in through a window they could open the door from the inside? The existing handle/lock I want to replace is at the in-laws and they lock their door with a key and remove it at night.

@@SimonCoates yes that's correct this wouldn't be suitable for that application

@@Funeve Many thanks for letting me know, it's much appreciated.

This is correct, however we do also sell a double sided slim series that will allow locking from both sides, which is great for domestic uses but isnt suitable for most commerical uses@@SimonCoates

Hi everything is working perfectly no issues at all apart from some lack of sunshine 🙄👌

Hello! The top screw is a sliding screw, that can be inserted whereever needed within the range by attaching one of the stubs included!

Sounds like a lot of though has gone into your setup Peter, I've used 10 units of grid power in the last month - the sun has been very kind.

Hi Rob, 1 Yes I have fitted some now, although i bought mine as a kit it didn't come with any. The pylontechs do have built in protection for battery overloading but belt and braces never hurt. 2 I'd have to check what grid standard it's on, but it was the correct setting out the box. 3 You don't need it, but it's handy if you want to review performance from the cloud, the other wifi antenna basically broadcasts it's own wifi network that you can connect too using a smartphone, this is a direct connection between your phone and the inverter, no internet is involved at all. The app you use is called solis techview. 4 Yes you can set that up through the front end or on the app. Overall it's performing very well for me, with no problems since it's been up and running.

Hi Jeff, if the door is closed without lifting up the handle the lock disengages the handle so the door cannot be opened, but only when you push the handle up is the multi point system engaged. You will not find a smart lock like this that automatically engages a multipoint lock as it requires a lot of power. You need an electronic uPVC multipoint lock set and an 3rd party controller to open and close etc

Thanks Jox 🙂

Hi flashback, it's not too loud mostly a low buzz while it's working hard with lots of power going through. Batteries don't make any noise. There's 2 CT clamps one of the PV and one for meter tails I think they're both about 5 meters long. They have rj45 plugs on so you can extend the cables with cat 5 or similar

@@Funeve That sounds fine. My cable run should be about 2 metres.

@@Funeve Another couple of questions. From your video couldn't see your installation of the Grid CT and Grid meter unit? Secondly, I'm a little confused over the UK requirement of a DRM cable and hard switch. Did you fit these?

@@flashback9966 Hi the grid sensor is housed in a separate unit next to my consumer unit. The CT clamp is just attached around the live meter tail. The DRM cable isn't used on my setup, the inverter communicates with the batteries via canbus. I haven't read much about it but assume it would be for batteries with no BMS The grid current sensor plugs in to a separate port and measures how much current is being imported/exported from the grid and the inverter will match the charge or discharge rates of the grid sensor. There is an isolator on the supply feeding the inverter and there is a built in one for the batteries on the inverter. I didn't film either of those bits as the video would have been even longer 😄.

@@Funeve Thanks for the quick reply. Did a bit of Googling on UK DRM regs. and there seems to be some confusion here. From a logical point of view, the inverter would know almost instantly if the Grid went down, since it is monitoring it continously. Hence would shut down accordingly. Trouble is, Solis don't make this clear in their manual.

Hi I used the pylontech usc5000s, made another video of them being installed more of a timelapse one. Will make an update video for them when the weather improves 🙂

@@Funeve That's great

Hi Bennie, you're welcome. It does auto lock and you can set up times where it's unlocked in the app. It doesn't engage the multipoint locks no smart lock will do that as they need a lot of force to do so. You'd need a motorised mutlipoint lock and another form of access control to get a door to lock that way (you'd see that in commercial premises where boxes and wires are going to be visible so doesn't really matter so much)

It does lock.. but does not enage a multilock door. It's not "locked" as such.. my door has a spring latch when it's not locked, and I push the handle down to retract the spring latch withthe old door lock. This new lock disengages the handle so it doesn't allow the spring latch to be operated. When it's locked the outer handle is not connected to anything.. it's on a spring to keep it in the up position. When you unlock it.. it engages and works like a normal door. At anytime, even when unlocked you can lift up to engage the locking pins in the door. I love it!

@@dozer5069 good explanation 🙂

Do you recommend this over Yale Conexis L2, which is another multipoint smart lock?

No probs, the more videos the better

Thanks for your kind criticism David - I mainly recorded because I couldn't find anything else useful online showing exactly what you get - more so with the Solis inverter. Once the sun starts shining a bit more and the batteries are operating how I want them too, I will create a follow up video 🙂