Відео

sadly if you already have back rest and you already buy touring seat for your partner. it fit so awkward

Greetings from Germany. I have a little Problem with my Classic 350. I know you should not rev the engine high for the first 500 Km. But after a warm up i did not follow the engine run-in exactly like its mentioned in the manual. So thats how i know what the bike is capable, how it does accelerate, and whats the top speed is BEFORE the first Service! I tested the Top Speed two or three times within the first 500 Km. (but always with warm up, and only for a short time) Now i did the first Service myself. (i am an mechanic, but not a bike-mechanic) I inspected the tappet setting. And it was way to tight as many others mentioned in the comment sections. So at first i was relieved that i inspected and adjusted them because it was so much off from the Datasheet (0.08mm Inlet, 0.18mm Outlet). Am i memorize correctly i could not put a 0.05mm Tin Strip in the inlet gap. And the outlet was also too tight maybe 0.1mm instead of 0.18mm. So, i went on adjusting them (Engine cold, Cam shaft dead center top,) so specified numbers and i took my time doing it perfectly and triple checked everything. I thought with these proper adjustment and fresh oil and filter the bike must run better than before. But i was wrong. Before tappet adjust it runs on flat road about 115 Km/h. And after tappet adjust it only runs around 100 Km/h. I can feel a loss of Power especially in fourth or fifth gear. I opened up the Valve cover again and checked the tappet gab. For me, it looked like its almost perfect (maybe the inlet side was a bit wider than 0.08mm more like 0.09). But because the Setting was from factory so much off from the datasheet, i minimized the gap on each valve slightly. Now i adjusted it to about 0.07 mm for the inlet, and 0.15 for the outlet. Initially, factory setting was tighter than my second adjustment... I have to make a Testride today, and i hope it will run better than with the first adjustment. I do not want to close the Valve gap even more. If the bike do not run 115 Km/h i think that the factory did something wrong with the camshaft setting. Maybe the Top-Dead from the Crankshaft does not match the top dead from the Camshaft? And thats why the tappet setting was so much off. But to check these, i would have to make a oil change again and take off the Engine Side Cover to block the Crank Shaft in Top-Dead. As i did the tappet adjustment i only orianteted myself on the Cam-Shaft. Normally Camshaft and Crankshaft have to match pefectly... I will write my conclusion here again when i know whats going on. (By the way: The Oil was very clean (brown not black), no metal flakes, no visible dirt or Metal anywhere)

Do you thing Clutch cable needs to be routed from inside or should it go outside and in between the frames

i have 3 types of engine oil in my 350....alrd done 5000km service...dealer doesn't want to adjust my tappets.Great Bike but crappy service centre.

Apparently the tappets are no longer checked on the first service

Mate that Service is Mega vital with the running in period, I would give the so called engineer the sack for such stupidity! My own Classic 350 Reborn started popping exhaust gasses audibly past the valve at 68-70 MPH because the gap had near closed, and when Hot "running hard" the gap closes and holds the valve open, this can and would quickly burn the valve seats which would require more costly re-seating of the valve/valves.

Do the tappets yourself, same with the servicing, beware that this may void your warranty

Hello sir, I am Varun and I ride meteor 350 in india. I have recently completed 20,000 kms and done with 5th service as well. Two days post to service i noticed engine oil was leaking a bit on head part from gasket. Technicians changed and after that work a strange feel was felt for me. They told they adjusted valve clearance whilst working on it. I feel little bit roughned aftrr that head gasket changing and valve clearance. Before service bike was super refined. My exact question is? Once the valve clearance adjusted will the little bit of roughness felt while riding not while idle. They told me to ride for some many kilometres or miles for the engine valve become loosens or set depends on our riding style. Is that the normal way in our bikes sir? Thanks

I agree, that a windscreen looks good on the Signals edition. I also have one on my signals and I love it. ua-cam.com/video/alR1vmK8yww/v-deo.htmlsi=uJkMtfS8WB1ZwP-j

Excellent. Had to sub

There are bikes that do not need a windscreen. It is better to dirty your dress than destroy the pure silhouette of the RE Classic

i would

👍👍👍👍

Is he still dead?

😂😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉🎉

Just one suggestion, wrap a plastic coating so it wont get scrach in long run. Like we put screen guard on mobile

The first service on my 350 is due and to have it done by a dealer means and a 100 mile round trip. I know bikes and engines so will do it myself. Warranty - well I was told that providing I use genuine parts and the service is done by a VAT registered dealer the warranty is good. I am rather dubious on the VAT registered thing however but my local garage does bikes and is VAT registered so no brainer. Will talk to them.

I do all my own service. I purchased a brand new Royal Enfield 350 Meteor and rode it for about 1500 miles. I figured I better do the first service so I did, I changed my own oil and checked my own tappets and they were exact. Your mileage may vary. I first thought it was a waste of time but then I thought well at least I know they're correct now. Yes I waited till 1500 miles and I knew I was being naughty but I figured the factory must have adjusted them when they built it in the factory and it seemed a waste to change the oil so quickly. But now it's done and it runs perfectly. I love this bike. 🙂

I’m not normally one for commenting but the reason why the manufacturer states that you MUST check the valve clearances at there recommended interval is because with some new engines as they break in you can get slight valve seat recession hence the valve gap closing up,as with my own classic 350 I was going to leave them alone as recommended by the main dealer but I had a cutting out issue from cold and with past experience with various motorcycles its due to tight valve clearances, mine had no gap at all but now they are adjusted correctly it runs perfect 👌

Are you dead?

I just ordered one for my Classic 500. So there is that!

I have to stand on the peg to get on the low side these days 😅

It's probably the 2nd most important thing, my last bike was damaged because it fell off, not by accident because the way i used to get on and off off her. The most important question is how to put on double stand properly.

With a big smile! 😃

I liked the idea of putting that up on mine, then i saw one with it and now I don't like it at all !

no more videos???

I know them bikes don't hold their value and the quality is no better than a Chinese bike

In 45 years of biking I never realised this 😮. Every day's a school day 👍. With a big(ish) tourer with side cases e.g BMW RT. From the low side I did the "post your leg through" technique which invariably meant a bit of hopping with the ground leg. Same for the dismount. Never tried it with the high side. With the Classic 350, I will now - even when it's unnecessary 😂. On the centre stand I either take it off first. Or if I'm feeling a bit lazy mount up first then rock it off the centre stand. But it IS very lazy 😂

On the low side, with lot's of baggage, I use the footpeg. Piece of piss!

Explain when you have to Kick start your Classic Royal Enfield

I've just adjusted mine for the first service and the tappets were way out of spec. That's what I'm hearing from lots of other people who work on these too.

East Warburton Damm ?

Where was this?

Hello, where did you purchase this from?

I don't know how a dealer can do it unless they have the bike for a couple of days the engine really needs to be stone cold for accurate gaps, that's why I do it myself!

i now the dealer dont always doe te mentenace like it schould be don , but you have to pay for it , it is not richt

can you ask a friend motor mechanic ? ore try to do it your self , so you now it is don , ore i go to a dealer en hope for the best.

❤❤❤❤

go get wat you paid for

I'm of a age when getting your leg over is a problem no matter what side.

Hey there, thanks for the instruction. Are you still keeping the clutch in the elevated position or had issues with the setup? Any insights?

Adjust the tappets by your self! That’s no rocked sience and you can findlots of videos how it’s done.

I have new royal Enfield standard reborn ia have same problem seating

With a smile 😃

Is the touring seat more comfortable than the standard seat?

Use the centre stand if you have one😅

The best windscreen is called the ranger I forget the name of the company but they're from Italy! I put one on my interceptor and its rock solid it doesn't even shake at 85 mph! And it's big too!

My advice to "EVERYONE" is to know your engine model. I thought I had a home run when I looked at adjusting the tappets. I found out that I had to strip the engine down and extract contaminated liters Imagine that 🤣

Great you're asking for opinions. I have one; this my 3rd time owning a RE Bullet x 2 and 2018 classic 500 battle green now. I loved them all and still do. Currently I live in the Andes mountains at about 3000 mtrs., although I did ride the highest navigable road in the Himalayas on an RE Bullet 500/ Here, like there, was/is a nightmare to get parts and service. In truth, I don't have anyone to call unless I ship my bike to the city some 5 hours away (and probably will never see it again) or I do it myself; i have opted for the latter. Leave the tappets alone is my advice unless they suddenly sound like a sewing machine on steroids. If you want a smooth sounding RE, you're gonna have to wait a lifetime ;-)

I'm getting off on this.