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Thanks bro....!!!!! Great detail and explanation on critical steps, I'm about to tear mine down, so all this info will come in handy. Thanks again.👍👍👍

Do you remember the fitting size and type coming out of the compressor and into the tank?

Great video. The front little bearing on my main shaft self destructed and fused to the main shaft. As a result, I had to get a new shaft and will be installing the gear and syncros. My shaft is the updated version so I do not have the rubber O ring behind the main bearing. My main bearing is pressed on.

It’s less expensive to squirt some silicone on a part than it is to produce, move, store, move, store, and install a gasket.

6:30 One always needs to remember that Pressure = Temperature. 0r, is that the other way around?

"the heart wants, what the heart wants".. youve earned yourself another subscriber, sir.

Does the rtv affect main shaft end play?

Don’t you have to swap the arms and everything out because of the increased height from stock ?

I just got to the 5th and 6th gear cluster today, but my cluster is in two parts not one like yours. My gear came off with no problems using a gear puller after I removed a two piece clip from the shaft.

Dude this is the most detailed series on how to rebuild a t56 makes me want to tackle my rebuild bad lol

Very nice tutorial on disassembling a T56. Thank you for taking the time to show it. I have a T56 Magnum and the input shaft bearing is damaged causing the 4th gear to stay in gear even in neutral gear position. I can now only rotate the input shaft in 4th and neutral. All other gears are lock up as if in two gears at once. This may have been caused because I may not have dialed in the bellhousing correctly 9 years ago. I thought I did, but it seems to be the only explanation. Unfortunately I have to take the entire transmission apart to get to the input shaft bearings. Do you have a video on how to remove these bearings from the input shaft (the out bearing) and main shaft (the inner bearing for the input shaft/4th gear)?

This is the worst teaching video ever...too much fuckin around not enough instruction

Relative humidity is not the best method of measurement for this test. Relative humidity is temperature dependant. A more accurate measurement would be grains per pound of water vapor. You could have air that is 50 degrees and 100% RH and air that is 75 degrees and 40% RH and they have the same amount of moisture. Grains per pound for each of these would be identical and if you dropped the temperature of the 75 degree air to 50 degrees with no other changes, the RH% would increase.

Excellent video and step-by-step explanation of the rebuild process! Now I'm ready to to tackle 2 of my tired Viper transmissions.

Still watching and trying to catch up.

Cool project! Can’t wait to see the finished job. Though I do enjoy all the detail you show us.

I want to do this so bad. Cost is my issue right now.

Cool beans

Great video thanks!

Hello there, where did you got the hardware shown in the video?

Nice job! Thanks for sharing.

Chevy orange

Wiring seems straight forward on the 220v converter , but I don’t have a neutral, I have two hots and a ground , so 240v, should still work but how did you wire your 220v up to it ?

I should do this. I hate my factory 15 Tahoe LTZ setup. And you're not lying about 22"s. They are awful. I have Yokohamas on mine and it still rides awful.

Can you fit a larger i/d pipe from the tank to the switch/regulator to increase airflow?

Good job brother

How did you wire a DC fan to an AC contactor? Is there a power supplly or something in between?

Did you have to adjust the strut before installation? Also, what simulator are you running?

gaskets on the ls engine went away in the newer lt's. gaskets where better

Sweet. So what kind of work do you do at space X ?

What size (diameter) are the tires you are running? Any rubbing at full lock? I just installed the adjustable Icon front suspension and looking at some AT4 takeoffs on Marketplace. Would love to know what size tires will fit to max comfort/ride. THANKS in advance!!

Anyone who has installed these, if you can provide a little help I installed these and it did fine until wheel alignment then a squeaking noise developed and fox said to remove bar pin and regrease with lithium, did it but found that the teeth on bar pin are flattened and now the lower mount bolts down align with lower control arm and literally have to pull it into place with excessive force and squeaky noise still exist and fox is no help

Delete reverse lockout and cags.

What need to be change to fix t56 reverse grind and hard to ship when running?

Rocking bro!! Thanks for the very detailed video and step by step… I started your series thinking you were a transmission pro cause of all the details you were able to give… awesome this was your first trans.

Excellent video! Thank you

Question, how freely does it need to spin Mine feels a little tight

Awesome video brother. Just keep in mind. Never rotate a crank counterclockwise that has overhead cams with cam chain tensioners. but the Duramax is a push roded engine so you're okay 👍🏻

I have a 9hp gas powered, 30lb tank. It has a 1" npt outlet on compressor to tank. I'm concerned about the pressure if I was to go direct to rad first. That's 1" not 1/2" or 3/4" like everyone else's compressor seems to be.

Thank you for the detailed know how and how to!! Blessings! Skill set I need as I’ll try my first transmission rebuild soon.

You have an interesting video. As for doing things scientifically though, when measuring temperatures with an IR thermometer, a person needs to take into account the emissivity of the surface they are measuring. Shiny light colored surfaces emit less IR than dark surfaces that are not shiny.

I followed your whole video, a few pieces were different in my 94 F-body T56 but still same order of parts. After putting the main case back on I couldn't get the 4/5 guide bolt to line up, I had to pull the case back off and make sure that the 4/5 slot was 12.5" up off the midplate surface, otherwise the pin wouldn't go in. Plus since I didn't have a "spare" 5/6 gearset to drive the speedo gear back on, I just used 1.25" metal tubing with plastic end caps from Home Depot, then a board+hammer on top like you did. My OPS is a Viper so 1.29" diameter versus the "standard" 1.175".

You guys are spending way too much money for those parts. Never buy a strut assembly as the springs are different and that can effect your ride and height of the vehicle. 22" wheel and tire assemblies are not that hard to balance if someone is using a good balancer and knows what they are doing. Also not installing the factory magneride will lower your resale value for the vehicle.

I got a 85 c20 suburban with a 6.2 detroit with the heavy duty suspension so what I found out it basically is using c30 upper control arms but I can't seem to find any that actually have the heavy duty ball joint, I've struck out twice on ordering uppers for this thing and they all seem to have c10 balljoints on them. Do you know of any brands/part numbers that actually have the HD balljoints?

Bro that was fantastic. Thanks

Great video! Did you need to have it balanced before using it? Also, did you reuse the 3mm roll pin? Also, what seals are used for the coolant lines?

Is this the same as the 2017 Chevy Suburban premier??

Any ideas on doing this mod on a compressor that is outside under cover, but in a cold clinate?

Glad to see you finally got back to work on it lol.

Just a quick suggestion for next time. When you lower it back on the ground, start it up and turn the wheel lock to lock to scrub them down (maybe even roll it back and forth a few feet) before you measure the height. It will take the pressure off the sidewalls and bring it down to actuall ride height. I have installed hundreds of leveling/lift kits on these (including this set up)