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For what car is it originally so I can buy it ?

You can go to the parts stores and get one for a 2005 3.7v6 jeep grand Cherokee and the pressure line also. My advice is to get one that comes with the reservoir it will make it easier to hook up.

@@JEEPERDUDE98 thank you brother

@quikstatik8999 no problem,it’s not a very hard swap but having the v6 pump with the reservoir makes for a cleaner fit. I’m still using the v8 setup and I had to plug one of the returns. You will get a check engine light because of the hydraulic unit being unhooked. You might be able to unhook that stuff plug it in and tuck it away. I’m not sure because for now it’s just unplugged.

Go to the parts store and tell them you want a disk brake pad spreader tool. Auto zone part number is 57111

I will have to check and see if the link still works or not.

Really? These were Jeep wheels that I put some 10ply cheap mud tires on so they were pretty heavy but yeah the engine was on its last legs being it’s head gasket was on the way out. But it would still roast the tire off. Granted it’s only 1 tire it was a heavy one lol.

@JEEPERDUDE98 mine has a factory LSD I did have 95 Mustang tri spoke wheels on the back which did spin but since the tires were old (like literally from 2003), I went to a junkyard & found a junked 05 mustang with 2013 mustang V6 wheels sadly the ones on the front didn't budge so I still have tri-spoke mustang wheels on the front & the '13 Mustang V6 wheels in the back it definitely needs a drop kit asap lol

@Jeremy_Hill_2020 I have a 98 Mazda 2500 basically a ranger I put my old 2001 gt wheels on it and painted them black and put some 245/65r17 tires on them I had laying around. Lol

@JEEPERDUDE98 I still have yet to install the intake on mine but it's dumb that for the 3.0, it only replaces the airbox lol also the shop where my truck was at stole the cats so I'll leave it catless & the pipe that's after the muffler rotted off so my dad bought a 28" long Thrush glasspack muffler (2.5" on both ends) & want to install that & do a side exit exhaust but my dad wants to put a Y pipe on the end of it & have dual exhaust out the back

This one was a bit when the cat melted down. He got tired of the smell so I put a high flow cat on it and the muffler it had at the time was a 8in cherry bomb which doesn’t muffle much.

You can add those your self with some extra work if you wanted to... It was hard enough to find a aluminum fan shroud the proper size for these radiator cores in the first place, must-less one that had the 'speed-flaps' that could blow open at fast highway speeds lol... Trust me, I though about it hahaha... These must not be very restrictive at all though st 70+ mph though, because I Literally just averaged 20.1mpg last weekend from a trip from North Carolina to Tennessee on my 1997 5.2L Grand Cherokee with this same exsct setup, with 195,500 miles on it! That was mostly interstate speeds pulling hills even

@@jeepjoe1996 id still add them if it aere me. But youd need flaps. This way theyre blocked off at idle for the fan to pull air (blocked off) then when driving they open up if that makes sense.

@jeepsblackpowderandlights4305 I get what your saying I have a 5.9 and I see the flaps but it’s not a must have. Idle is the problem with 99% of the 4.0’s and the v8’s idle with the a/c on. My brothers 5.2 with this setup with a 205 thermostat runs in the low 190’s on the interstate and idle now all day long. This setup works better than my niner does with its factory setup and I have it wired to run on high speed. But I know what you mean with the flaps but it’s not been an issue. I run this exact same setup on our 2005 5.7 hemi because I wanted to rid the hydraulic setup and we just took it on a 200 mile one way trip and it did great! I was also towing our camper.

@@JEEPERDUDE98 not sure i agree with that.. my 5.9 never gets above 200/210 unless the fan is off of course until it clicks on at 212. Maybe its a XJ issue or something my 4.0 never gets above 200 either and its got 450k miles now.

@@JEEPERDUDE98 fing hate youtube it keep blocking my comments anytime i say specific words or a group or numbers.. i wanted to say my 5.9 never gets hot. Its always at 200 or so when driving or after the fan kicks on.. same with the 4.0 we have both 98 zjs. The 4 0 has 450k miles.

You don’t have to go through the firewall with any wiring,it has a digital control you mount under the hood in the fuse and relay box. It does all the work for you. Set on temperature and set off temperature. Probes in the radiator you add tell it the temperature so it knows when to kick off and on. If you tap into the a/c compressor you can trigger the fan to come on with the ac.

Good man, but I faced a problem with the hydraulic oil hoses. How do I connect them from the pump? I hope you can help me with it

@almahadielawayb7349 the pump which is for a 2005 Jeep grand Cherokee 3.7 v6 will work and if you get one of those get it with the reservoir on it to simplify the swap. Also get the v6 pressure line it will screw into the steering rack just like the v8 one.

The link should be in the description I got it off eBay.

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07WFX4NT2?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Thanks,you should see my Jeep do one.

Patience,besides that from what I can remember nothing. Maybe some bolts and a donut gasket for each side. They fit to the down pipes like the factory manifolds do.

@@JEEPERDUDE98 You able to send the link or the name of the headers you got if you remember? Appreciate it

@trxole3983 I wish I could, but the customer bought those and that was probably five or six years ago.

Thanks!

The surface was cleaned and rtv saw specified to not be applied to the cylinder head where the timing cover meets,but to the gasket itself. My camera went dead and missed. The rtv was applied to the gasket. I can assure you it doesn’t leak. I did this job about 3 years ago and service it for the customer about 4 times a year and it has no leaks. Reason behind the rtv being placed on the gasket is so very minimal amount seeps out. If you apply to the head it will seem out and possibly get into the oil and cause issues. The black crusty stuff you see on the head doesn’t need to be removed it’s not the gasket sealing surface,it is to the outside of it.

​@@JEEPERDUDE98 Toyota says no RTV is required at all on the gasket, or the head. You used RTV on the gasket to ensure there were no leaks, but had you taken your time, you didn't need the RTV. A good mechanic would have cleaned the head surface totally, even the part that the gasket does not sit on, so that he could see if he has any leaks after installation or at next servicing. Toyota says a small amount of RTV is to be applied at the gap between the head and the cam cover so oil will not leak out at that point. I also think that the inside of the valve cover should have been cleaned as well while you had it off. Also, you did not use a genuine Toyota gasket. If the original one lasted 200,000 miles then it should be used again, unless the customer is on a very tight budget. These small things separate the good mechanics from the flat-rate fellas that always need to rush their jobs. I'm not saying you're not a good mechanic, I know what it's like to be pushed and rushed to finish a job. You got the job done, that's the main thing. I'm older and retired, and only work on my own vehicles, so I have the time to do it right. Keep up the good work!

I can’t remember what this guys issue was I’d have to watch the video again and see. But I believe his had a delayed start and a rough idle.

Thanks, it performs pretty good for stock axle’s and 31’s.

@@JEEPERDUDE98 i see that, well done.

The best way to do it if you are not sure is pull one coil and spark plug replace the plug or coil if needed and then move to the next. They usually have the coil wires just long enough to reach the right coil. But I have seen some vehicles that you could get wrong. Replace one at a time will save a lot of headache.

It was also on its last legs being it was a flex fuel motor at the time it had signs of a blow head gasket and I still drove it for a year before it let go. Finally it started overheating one day and that was the end of it. If it had the regular 3.0 it would sing like that for years,tough ole engines. The crowd about laughed me out of that place until I started my burnout. Then not so much 😂. I told them hey if it was posi you really would feel bad.

@JEEPERDUDE98 I drive a Mazda b2500 it's a peg leg too!😁 solid daily. It's a 2001 with the 2.5 great running little truck.

@@Tealmoney8571 I have a 98 Mazda b2500 with 183,000 miles love that truck runs great I’ve put about 40,000 since I got it in 2017 great little truck,not much fuel mileage wise or power but dependable.

Not exactly sure since I have worked on a ton of cars since then. Probably about 2.5hrs. Most of the time was spent on flushing the system. This guys core was so stopped up it wouldn’t even flow air through it hardly.

@gazgf bank 2 in on the passenger side of the engine if you are sitting in the jeep,sensor 1 upstream sensor is up near the manifold and plugs into the area next to the dipstick tube. I did all 4 sensors on this one. Bank 2 sensor 1 is by far the hardest to get to.

Thanks like and subscribe

Right off hand no but the front shocks were made for a 6-7in lift I believe bilstein 5100’s,the rear shocks came off a f-250 they were factory size for the 4x4’s I wanna say it was around a 2005. I’ll check all my numbers and get back to you on that. I was almost at the end of the shock length wise here in this video. Rear part number is rs55254 rancho they are 18.26 compressed and 30.57 extended. The front is. The front I believe without looking 24-185943 bilstein 5100’s collapse length 16.97in and extended is 28.44in

thx@@JEEPERDUDE98

@rigsoffrods9386 no problem

It has all 3 cats,the 2 on the manifold and the after cat before the muffler,it’s a knock off flowmaster 40 series.

I used the bottom hose pointed it down into a bucket. Then I unhooked the heater hose that went into the heater core and it flushed that into the motor where it comes out of the water pump which is backwards. It will flow into the motor and out of the bottom hose. I also did it this way after flushing the heater core separately. You can do that and get a ton of the gunk out. But before I did that I drained the coolant and flushed with water then added dawn to break loose the oil that got into the system from the transmission cooler. So this part in the video was after getting a ton of that out. The thermostat is located on the water pump outlet for the top hose. I had to leave a lot of steps out because it takes so long to film the process and still make money. Filming is very time consuming without another person to film it for me. That would be much easier. I have a good hose nozzle that fits the end of a 5/8 hose pretty good and tight.

That was the fun of it tank an old junker and have some fun with it.

It’s rust and it was a ton of it. Apparently they never changed coolant and used just water in the summer time. It’s an old farm truck and it’s seen it’s fair share of abuse.

Thanks for the positive comment!

Your very welcome hav a blessed evening

It had 2 pipes that run into the xpipe and 2 that come out. Hence duals

@@JEEPERDUDE98 it's not TRUE duals though. That's why true duals are called true - there are 2 pipes, all the way from the exhaust manifold to the tip and nothing else

@ordinate5838 The separate exhaust pipes from a true dual exhaust might also be fed into and out of an X or H crossover pipe in order to balance exhaust pulses and provide a smoother exhaust flow from both sides. This setup would still be considered true dual exhaust.

@@JEEPERDUDE98 No. Just no. True duals are true duals. No additions.

@@JEEPERDUDE98 The stuff you are describing is just a dual exhaust. Not true dual.

Thanks for the age compliment,but if you don’t think a burnout isn’t cool your not a true gear head.