Відео

My border collie has done perfectly through every step until they are alone in a room with a very high value food for more than a few minutes. I know this means I'll just need to keep training slowly to try to undo the self reward history, but what do you recommend to do when mistakes happen in training and dog does take the food? If they are eating it before you can stop them, do you cue 'leave it' and reward if they stop eating? I've done that but my partner thinks that rewards both the unwanted and wanted behaviors (taking the food+leave it half eaten). In that situation is it better to withhold reward even if they stop eating on cue 'leave it'? or better to not cue anything and just physically stop them from eating it?

Question my uncle has a bird hunting dog that's lovely but I got a new kitten so is there a way to teach the dog that cats are off limits but still retain it's bird drive?

Thank you for the training tips. You do it very well. "YES" !!!🤩

I look forward to seeing the window reactivity video. It might help with my dog who has a similar problem. Although with her it is a lot more intense and it transitions to aggression. With her if she even hears footsteps she doesn't recognize near the house she absolutely explodes. Shes so sensitive to it that at times I don't even know that someone is approaching the house until shes already acting like the sky is falling. Even doorbells and door knocking on the television will sometimes set her off. Of course, with many dogs they will bark a bunch and make all kinds of noise. But when the visitor comes in they are suddenly okay with their presence. Not my dog. She will charge the door and bite anyone who tries to come in. If you open the door when she's freaking out she will charge and bite whatever and whoever is near the house. We have to plan way in advance if anyone is visiting to make sure everyone is safe. I don't know how else to describe what she's like other than. If you have even a basic understanding of dog body language. You will immediately see a dog who is ready to fight something, anything that gets near the house. There are only a few people that can come in and she is okay with it. I have found she's much more willing to be approached when she's away from the house. Not just out in the yard or even down the street near it. But far enough away that she definitely knows we aren't at home. She's still a little nervous about people reaching for her before she's ready, but you can walk by her and she doesn't mind. If you give her treats she will warm up to you quickly. And, if she warms up to someone out in public and that same person comes to the house, she still barks at them, but its not nearly as intense. And we have gotten her to be okay with a few people coming in I might need more than a video to help with such an intense reaction.

Great video, my beagle caught right on so fast. I can throw right by his nose and he just looks at me, going to try on walks soon.

I might try that with peanut butter. Thanks.

Banana= no more leaks!

I did it and it’s so cute

I found this video to be helpful and liked the style.

I would like a verbal cue for heel video if it hasn't already been made.

Yes! my Nick has a knack for getting tangled in his leash, drives me batty! Can't wait to work on this.

My Siberian Husky Alaskan Malamute mix LOVES to pull and chase anything. I believe this would probably help her.

Great song!! 😉

I have a greyhound, shes an ex race dog, she can never be allowed off the leash, if she sees a paper paper bag blow by she'll mistake it for prey and bolts for it, i dont how many ex race dogs youve worked with but their prey drive is by far the highest out there. Biggest challenge is getting her to realise its not her job to chase anymore, it takes time.

I love the style of video and look forward to more. My question is a typical Alberta question what do you do when you have reinforced with treats and now it’s too cold to go out without mittens🥶 or at least mittens, thin enough to hold treats

Southern Alberta moment. We have crown land up north. (I know you have crown land where you're at, but it's not a 10-minute drive)

Love this! Such clear training, thank you

My 22 mth old GSD no.1 is and would be other cats. Ok with our 2 young cats at home.

I can't agree with you more when mentioning the importance of understanding the idea of threshold. You can prevent so many problems from happening by just not letting my dog to go beyond the threshold. My dog used to have strong leash reaction. He's getting so much beter now. Sometimes I can't even believe how well he behaves on leash when other dogs walk by.

I think I failed to properly fade the treats when teaching my dog to sit. He rarely sits without knowing I have a treat in hand. Any solutions to get him to sit without treats?

The POSITION where you reward your dog makes HUGE difference. I read this somewhere and it does make big big diiference. Like if you want to encourge your dog to walk beside you, one of the methods is to reward your dog when he's on your side or to be more specific, when his nose is behind your leg. Another practice I would do is to call my dog and then toss treats beside my leg or behind me when he walks ahead of me. My dog learned that if he stays behind me, which is want I want, he gets treats. I love all your video's. They are all very helpful. Thanks again.

I like the coffee joke :) haha

Ps the coffee 😂😮

The long lead question answer was so helpful! Our dog won’t sit when on a walk if I ask and I had your voice in my mind when instead of getting frustrated I said “she’s over threshold”, and we paused and did some checking in and pet her a bit and then she did sit! I was trying to use the sit to settle her a bit but I was too late! Thanks for your calm delivery my inner voice was so neutral and calm!

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I would love to have your ways of training the New Default Behavior…and others in this video. Thank you

If only my dog would take treats out on walks. Nothing works (so far). Tried dry food, liver cake, cheese, chicken. Whatever is driving him to pull is more important to him than food (or me). He is super responsive at home but out on walks it's difficult to get his attention. Tug toys do not work either even though he is obsessed with them at home. We keep trying. Edit: Actually just watched your threshold video which explains a lot!

This is great but I have a few issues with reactivity in my 8 month old rescue pup. I cannot guarantee an area where all dogs will be on lead/leash as people do what they like here (UK). I do t have anyone I can practice with. My dog will only focus on the dog and will not look at me and will not take treats while outside, especially when focussed on another dog or sight or smell. Any advice at all? 😬😅

Thank you so much! Great job and easy to understand and implement for my family

Thanks for this video! I’ve been trying to figure out what treats to give my dog because she’s not very food motivated and I’ve had challenges with her dropping treats and not wanting it or taking awhile to sniff and then chew the treat during a training session. This will hopefully give some new options to try. 😊

My dog grabbed the spoon😂😂

Thank you so much for this in depth rebuttal to this ludicrous training method that seems to be becoming more and more popular.

I have tried this but when I turn my back my puppy grabs my clothes which is so frustrating 😒

Very helpful! I can see how you use the longer leash as well as how to mark & treat a trigger.

Growing up watching the whisperer, and seeing other methods online using quite a bit of force, I must admit I personally saw nothing wrong with mimicking corrections that resemble their animalistic methods. BUT after a career in working with children and teens (many of whom from traumatic situations) my opinions on your methods have opened up my options and I am so grateful to have stumbled on your channel! My husband and I are trained to handle the traumas and anxieties (in human children) with proven scientific methods that are so far different from "normal" parenting styles, styles that often create more trauma and anxiety. I see your methods being very similar approaches to the trauma informed care that we provide and they work! Clearly, these methods work for your training style as well. So thank you for providing such great content, I look forward to continuing to watch some of your videos and buying some of your courses very soon. :)

Which high value treats do you recommend? I've heard we shouldn't treat the dog when they fixate on other dogs, is this true? This is very helpful...I live in a dog heave street and potty breaks are a nightmare ..any tips..I use cars to block when it's just too hard. I always feel ashamed and like a failure when she reacts. I get emotional when returning home because I beat myself up for doing things different

Hello! My dog and I have seen our improvements plateau over the past 2 months. Some days he does very well, but is extremely inconsistent. His success seems to depend almost entirely on what kind of mood he is in when we start our walks. Our routine is very consistent: wake up, play to burn energy, recall game to build focus, walk. I am also careful about maintaining a happy and upbeat demeanor/voice myself even during bad days. Behavior on a good day: - Quickly refocusing on me when I change directions and call his name (very often before reaching end of leash) - Very very few (usually zero) situations requiring treat to nose redirection - Great cued heel for 30+ second stretches - Frequent voluntary non-cued heeling in "boring" areas like our cul de sac - Frequent check-ins even when 4+ feet ahead of me - Runs to me for a treat after good (but reasonable length) sniffs - Quick to disengage from distractions (including people and dogs on other side of the street) with a simple name call - Instant leave-it/drop-it for "easy" things (I only cue these when I can tell he's being attentive and I'm confident he will succeed) - Able to complete a full loop around our neighborhood which includes a couple pretty distracting areas - Enthusiastic body language: loose whole body/tail wagging, "prancy" gait while heeling and looking up, tongue out - Getting home after a 40+ minute walk he wants to continue training and will follow me around in heel looking up at me both inside and in the backyard Behavior on bad days: - Frequent failures to refocus when changing directions (requiring treat to nose redirection) - Constant stopping or pulling ahead, basically disregarding me completely - Stalking/hunting behavior where he walks extremely slowly then freezes (he is a pointer) - Complete fixation on other calm dogs 100 feet away (refuses treat to nose redirection and does everything he can to maintain line of sight) - Rigid body language, mouth closed, tail not wagging - All of the above within our front yard/cul de sac, which he has been doing great in for over 3 months - I usually cut these walks short (around 20 minutes), and when we get home he just wants to immediately go in the backyard and hunt lizards My best guess from the stalking behavior and his immediate desire to hunt at the end of the bad walks is that for whatever reason some days his prey drive is unsatisfied (GSP) and he would just much rather be hunting than training at that moment. He is very excited every time I pull out the leash and harness (regardless of what kind of day its going to be), so I often don't know his mood until a few minutes into the walk. Any tips on how we can improve his consistency?

Your training videos are the best, my little Frenchie is finally learning 😊

This really helped thank you! It makes sense like any other addiction that you have to give them something to do instead