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Right, and this problem is amplified when you realize the filaments with potentially harmful exhaust tend to be the same ones which need the high temp enclosure.

Why??

Hey Bob, 4x2mm magnets

i wouldnt risk it. lookup what acid cleaned carbon do to your rods and rails.

In that case would you mind arguing that ? Because I am looking at the different filter designs out there and for me it is almost impossible to judge which system has what benefits and drawbacks. Because no one ever does a good comparison.

what does "proper ventilation" mean?

@@mfrederiksonextraction to send the exhausr air outdoors

Thank you! Check the voron discord local to the UK, they may have direct contacts with reputable UK sellers.

Aquarium shops!! Used extensively in tropical and marine fish aquariums.

Did you find some? Also in UK, is that right about aquarium shops??

I largely PLA, my machines are inside enclosures with a carbon air filter and the room has two air purifiers. I'm always looking for ways to improve the safety side. Each enclosure also has fire safety devices (Wham Bam - The Cloud). If I do need to use PETG or other materials, I have an expensive BOFA 3D Printer Filtration system I plug in. Print safe!

Hey there, the inner carbon box is in the CMAG_stl folder. Let me know if you find it. ;)

@@3DPrintingForMoney The grill file is missing. You are supposed to print 4 grills but they are not there.

I see them in the cmag file section. Instructions on page 6, plate 3 on how to do it. It is called “net infill x4.stl” media.printables.com/media/prints/272525/stls/5723835_3a6b2fbf-f839-490b-9eb4-fe4198437b20_80d2172a-c0ee-4039-b49b-852c72512e9e/thumbs/cover/180x180/png/net_infill-for-prusaslicer_preview.webp

@@3DPrintingForMoney Ah, I should have checked the PDF first. There are settings you need to apply to get them to not be solid squares. Once I added the honeycomb infill and other various slicer settings they now show the proper grill holes. Thanks!

Here to help!

Good quality pellets have very low dust, if it is a concern you can always “dry-run” the filter out of the printer for a couple of hours to get rid of possible particles. Before putting a new load i always tap the pellet box on a paper towel to assess dust levels

@@3DPrintingForMoney thanks for the reply and your suggestion. But why would it not be best to put the particle filter last?

It is common practice to place a HEPA filter before and after the carbon in an air filter. This can be seen in respirator cartridges.

I think having the HEPA filter first and then carbon is better, because the HEPA filter will remove small particles and then carbon removes odors and such, that are actually smaller particles than the particles that the HEPA filter removes. Even if the spacing between the carbon in this design is larger than the HEPA filter, the carbon still removes smaller particles in the way that active carbon works, i.e. adsorption (yes, with a 'd', not absorption), so it is actually going from coarse to fine. If you'd put the carbon first, then maybe it would quicker get covered with larger particles that the HEPA filter filters which would reduce the carbon effectiveness. I wonder if a carbon filter sponge would work equally well, or even better, than the carbon chunks used here.

Depends if you want to dump your trash into the public or not.

If you vent to outdoors you are good to go.

@@Jacksparrow4986 LOL! What a dumb thing to say! It's not going to hurt anyone outside. WTF is wrong with your brain?

I'm considering connecting my enclosure directly to the ventilation system to suck the air outside, and/or using a circulating system like the Bento box. One possible positive effect of the circulating system is that it will contain the warm air in the enclosure if you need it for the material you are printing. My printer is in a 16°C room, so if I ventilate outside during printing, it will mean it will draw in the cold air from the room into the enclosure, which I might want to avoid. Maybe the ideal would be to use both, so that when you need to contain the heat, you use the circulating filter and else ventilate outside with negative pressure.

​Yeah, once all the toxic particles go outside.. they disappear! like magic. No one ever has to deal with them again. Eeesh. people with low brain power are why cancer keeps getting worse. can't see it, doesn't exist. google up some pictures of particulate matter in air under a microscope. We are literally doomed with all the crap in the air now.

Most aren’t acid free, i would spend a little more and don’t worry about corrosion

@@3DPrintingForMoney OK, thank you.

Trouble with that is venting air to the outside of the printer enclosure also vents the heat out. For many filaments, high enclosure temps are a must.

Thanks for the tip! Luckily I thought of this. I got my tent and everything set up this last weekend. The tent is very well sealed so my plan is to let it print with no airflow and then vent all the fumes out after the print just before I open the tent up. I don't have a heated printing mat so the added heat will be nice to retain. It will be fun to see how this works after I get home from work.@@imacmill

@@retroguardian4802 Have you been able to test this setup? If so, how were the results?

Worked great! I actually ended up buying 3 more printers and doing the same. I only exhaust the heat after the print. I did buy a variable motor speed controller as I only had a big 6" duct blower but just decided to vent the particles before opening so not to effect the temp of the print. Any other questions just ask. I'm new and just learned how to do everything from cad to print so it is fresh on the mind. @@budoboy1977

Good question. The negative pressure should be very low - just enough to keep any leaks in your enclose moving air in the right direction. On my Voron 2.4 I run the exhaust fan at 10% to 15% speed, and chamber temps (heated by bed only) stay around 50°-60°C for ABS and ASA.

Merv17 are hard to find in suitable dimensions. The hepa filters linked are for “dust scrubbing” and bigger particles, the adsorption is taken care by the activated carbon pellets. Depending on material printed, 100-300h, the lesser for the technical materials. I made an experiment going over the 300h rule with a green asa and the hepa had a slight green tone after that time frame..

Get a whole room hepa filter and put the printer in a room you don't spend time in. The UFPA are what cause the "cold" like symptoms. And as far as we know ASA doesn't release any confirmed carcinogens.

Go to Lowe’s, buy acrylic or glass panels. Make a box with silicone sealer for the edges. Make a notch at the bottom for power, a hole for a tube where the funesnwill be sucked out your window with a tiny fan at the end

@@SAMZIRRA wow, I never would have thought of that! Only one issue : I don't live in America and don't have a Lowe's nearby. Oh, also, it's winter, so it might not be a great idea to be pumping heated air outside because... You know... Wasting energy and stuff. Oh, and I almost forgot, I don't actually have a window in my apartment? Only a big sliding window-door. So I really think an air filter would be more reasonable

@@Klaevin Air filters are a nice idea but do they actually work? If they do just get a big air purifier.

@@Potatobitz I am thinking of the same thing to get some air circulation in my basement. And it's not overkill at all!

Hey, did not, i usually wait at least 6mo before trying/changing equipment. There is a trend where first buyers are used as beta testers. :(

Im waiting for reviews on that unit before buying a 3d printer, hopefully some will come soon@@3DPrintingForMoney

Came here for this as well haha

Good question..i would mock up some cardboard and see if the bed moves freely. I don’t own any of the k1 series

Think of the filters like strainers. If you put the strainer with smaller mesh first, it will clog up with all the bigger particles. ;)

@@3DPrintingForMoney Alveo3D that makes the carbon filter for the Prusa enclosure, among others, has the carbon filter first and then HEPA.

There are a couple of factory holes - small gauge wires fit perfectly

You can put the printer in a fire resistant enclosure & vent that to your window.

It absolutely does! but it is single pass..internal recirculating filters grants higher adsorption rates. Plus abs/asa etc benefit a lot from a hot chamber and printing with exhausting with fan on decreases internal chamber temperatures. Can be turned on only when print has finished but then cooling factor for these materials isn’t optimal. They *need* to be brought to room temperature gently to retain part strength

Odor for now. Looking to get a decent meter but they are $500 and up…Cheap ones aren’t accurate enough

I have cheaper meter that cost around 140e. I got this for my electronics hobby. I use some chemicals for cleaning flux off pcb and I wanted to see how long those fumes were staying on room. I live small apartment so my hobby area is also where I spend my time. This can show if room air quality level is ok for long term use. Range in this meter is not enough to do checking if you need personal protective equipment when you do short visit in room. Scale end where it was not recommended to be in same room over 1 months. TVOC range ended 9.9mg/m3. For long term exposure it should be under 1 mg/m3.

Noise level with listed 4020 is way lower than regular fans, almost “silent”. In my print shop without looking at the on/off switch i can’t tell if they are on or off