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@@bramdejong3046 If the flow sensor is gone then you would get E19. In this case you would get the alarm during the fill phase. If your getting E04 then check the heat pump terminals 2 and 3, (middle and rhs) you should read a resistance of 19-24ohms . Open circuit means you would have to replace the pump. You can also megger test the heater terminals and earth or ground terminal by injecting 500v. You should get infinite resistance or greater than 10Mega Ohms to pass

@@theoracle6005 thankyou, i checked the resistance on the heatpump and i have 0 ohms. So i suppose the heating element is burned through. Is this an common failure?

@@benphillbrook9055 Did you run solder on the relay terminals

@@benphillbrook9055 The issue is caused due to a dry joint. So you just apply leaded solder to the all the relay pins. This will fix the issue and the washer will start heating. If this fails then replace the relay.

@@paulocapelas2881 Hi - You need to ensure that the drain plug (White colour) Is clipped in - otherwise your pump will not drain. You can use a magnet on the LHS of door switch on the door and manually activate the pump - do this with the plastic drain pump removed , it should backwash any obstruction out. Then I use a syringe to suck the water from the sump and use a tweezers to pick up broken glass. This will solve your E25 alarm. Worst case scenario if everything else is checked the drain pump may have failed

@@3Swillems The flowmeter or the inlet condenser valve is defective. Would try replacing tge flow meter first

@@theoracle6005 thank you!

@@Leo-gt1bx yes, scroll thru my video list

@@zakzman2633 if you have 8.9Ohms between heater terminals and ground you have a breakdown in insulation resistance. Did u unplug the heater wire harness and temp sensornplug before taking readings. If not you can be measuring circuit resistance in parallel. I unplug all connectors to the heater and I use a megger tester to measure insulation with 500volt setting to check if the resistance drops below 1Mega Ohm, ideally you want insulation resistance to be between 10Mega Ohms to 500Mega Ohms. But if your unplugging thr connector and getting 8.9ohms between earth and heater terminals, you have a bad heater and you will need to replace the pump

@@theoracle6005 Thank you for the details. I'll redo my measurements after I unplug all three wire harnesses (motor, pump and heat sensor) this time. I appreciate it!

@@theoracle6005 Hi again... ok, I unplugged the power harness and the sensor harness to the heat pump and the readings are still the same...8.9 ohms between the two terminals (nothing between either of them and Earth/ground terminal). Measurement at the heat sensor were 9.9 (terminal one and two) 9.8 (2 and 3) and 19.7 ohms (between 1 and 3). The motor terminals readings were 12.8 ohms between each two of the three terminals. As you can see the measurements are following the correct patterns, but the values are a way lower than what you had. I'm in the US and voltage is 110/120, would that make a difference? Do the lower measurements means the heat pump assembly is damaged? Thank you very much for your help!

@@sertifikali Hi you need to rewire only the temp sensor wires cut each wire one at a time and reterminate. The first wire far lhs of connector is gnd, then the next two terminals is the heater, so polarity does not matter. But be careful with temp sensor wires 1, 2,3 and keep them in order. Bosch has different heat pumps operating a different voltage and frequency. Make sure u replace with the same pump for model, otherwise u blow up the control board (inverter circuit dies)

@@theoracle6005 I really appreciate your response. I have no idea about the voltage and frequency difference. I was just assuming under same brand voltage and frequency shouldn’t be different. But obviously that’s not the case. Thank you 🙏

@@sertifikali Replace the heat pump my friend

@@theoracle6005 Thanks my friend. I really appreciate!

@@bgate1984 it's an additional seal which fits around sump seal to fix E15 error

@@theoracle6005 thank you , I have the error , with water in base, but can’t find source, must be an intermittent drip so will have to keep checking

@@giddysmiles2901 Yes that's the reason why I install the seals using this method as it ensures that the oring seal seats properly before assembly. In my opinion the lazy method of installation shown by many others doe as not guarantee a proper seal as the seal supplied is slightly oversize

@@matshulten5396 There is a clip which you nearly have to break to pull the assembly apart. I would recommend replacing the whole unit to prevent comprising the seal

Yes I do Bosch Dishwashers , is there a specific video you want me to do

Yes of course

@@theoracle6005 yes there is. Have you done a Energy power usage on these machines. I just got rid of my BOSCH which has no serial numbers to it. Just bosch with 5 settings from a push dial system. Push dial in and it pops out for you to change settings from - reset > pre wash > 30 degree > 65 degree and 75 degree wash cycle. I think this unit was from 2009. We noticed it consumes alot of energy in the 1st 15 mins then energy consumption dropped. After 45 mins it would normally finish but this kept going and then stated tap water needed. Then a funk weird smell.

@@theoracle6005 We tested by using a AMP clamp meter. We got 8.2 max in amp usage.

Colm can make sure that the reed switch board is properly seated. If the board comes away then it may cause the error to reoccur.

Did u press the board back into the slot. If it disengages at the small tabs , the flowmeter won't work properly and will alarm

Sure I will do a video on that 😀

Ok Mohanish I will do that video for you. Stay tuned 😉

The mean time between failure for the circulation pump is 10-12yrs. Keep in mind other parts may fail during this life span

You should get about 7-10yrs with a new heatpump. Mind you that depends on mtbf of other components

There's a second part to that video

Yes the damage initially starts on the pins due to leaks. Then you can solder the track but effectively this is short lived as they will break again. When you apply heat to the heater track surface it delaminates. So best option would be to replace the heat pump

Hi The flowmeter generates a pulse train when the reed switch opens and closes as the magnet spins Generally it would be hard to measure without special equipment such as a scope or frequency meter. So a replacement is generally the way to go and they are only $35 to $40Aud.

A multimeter will not really tell you much unless it's got frequency measurement. The paddle wheel has magnets and opens and closes the reed switch. The dishwasher has a self diagnostic when it begins to fill before each cycle. It Pulses the inlet valve and then checks for flow meter measurement. The machine measures no. of Pulses for the specified test period. If this falls within the specified range then the machine will then begin to fill from the water stored in the heat exchanger condenser tank. If there is no water in the tank, then it will begin to switch the main water inlet valve and count the specified Pulses for approximately 4L of water.

Hi Pascal The pump actually operates like a 3 phase motor. The board converts into 3 phase and commentates the motor. Although supply voltage is 230v/120vac , the motor voltage is actually fixed by bosch and shouldn't matter. Varying speed us done by varying frequency.

The element is a part of the motor assembly replaced as one piece

@@theoracle6005 I have replaced them numerous times. Replacement thick film heaters are available on line for them

If your having a leak from the inlet part of the pump , then I would recommend using some high temperature silicone - Selleys Engineering Grade silicone 401- rated to 205DegC. This stuff is good and sets within 20mins. Always use a small amount off silicone on the sealing parts. Using too much can cause problems. I use this on all Medical instrument washers and Autoclaves as well.

Hi Mick Thank you for your kind comments. The wash and final rinse reach 70DegC on a pots wash cycle. If you log the cycle you would be able to test this with time. So log the cycle and double check. It is possible that the heater is slowly failing resulting in a lower temperature. This usually means the heat pump is on its way out. Check for any corrosion at the bottom and near the terminals.

As long as you have an inverter which can supply the prescribe motor voltage you can bench test

Hi Did you test the heat pump terminals 2 and 3rd terminal (red wires) - it should be 20ohms. If it's open circuit then you get E09. The pump price in Australia is $220 and about 1.5hrs to remove and install/test. I would give this a go before looking at PCB

I replaced the pcb the board to fix the issue

@@theoracle6005 I have made repair on the pcb, but although it’s filling now, the heater is still not working

@@firmbutton6485 I would say check the heater on the heat pump and replace if necessary

Hi there There are two possibilities- one is that the valve is defective, you can check for resistance and voltage. If there is open circuit resistance, then the valve is open circuit. If there is no voltage at the valve terminals then the mother board could be defective

@@theoracle6005 the valve that lets the water in from the side tank into the washer, I removed it and checked it operated it with mains voltage and it seems fine. The flow meter, I didn’t get any fault code but have ordered a new one anyway. I will post a video of what happens. It runs with no water in it. Really odd.

@firmbutton6485 what's the model number. This is located on the top of the door jamb

Is it the valve or is it board providing an incorrect voltage. Did I replace the valve like for like as there is two version from memory

@@theoracle6005 The valve failed, why it failed is not known. The Bosch technician had no mechanism to test voltage from Board. He is going to do trial and error method. First, he will replace the valve if the dishwasher works then it is fine. If it doesn't then he will replace the Detergent dispenser, if it works then fine. if it doesn't then he will replace the power module. Can you believe it? They have given me an estimate of 11,000 INR. From our end, we are installing a stabilizer since we seem to have high voltage in our area. But this valve is too sensitive. For the same voltage, no other electrical appliances in our home fail, but only this valve keeps giving problems. Please make this valve available for sale online. So we can replace it ourselves, rather than having to pay 800 INR service charge each time just to replace the valve. Bosch Dishwasher is getting too expensive to maintain. We are already thinking along the lines of getting a washer that is better suited to conditions in India, such as Voltas Beko IFB or even Faber. Using this machine since 2018, three valves changed!! I am still waiting for the parts, today I received a call from Bosch informing us that all the parts have not yet arrived. They have given me 04 Oct 23 as the technician visit date. Cannot say I am happy with the amount of time it is taking to fix this issue. The complaint was raised on 19 Sep 23 and they are saying they will fix it by 04 Oct 23 !!! Would truly appreciate it if you could help. Ticket Id: 475322788

Measure the resistance of the heater, if it's open circuit replace the Heat pump assembly

Can be thermistor , but can also be a possible issue with a dry joint either on the element or the board

Only drain and wash pump have purple cable. There is 3 wires on each cable set. On the motherboard side Bosch state never to remove the individual plugs from the cable guide as they are not fool proofed. I think they did this purposely to prevent unauthorised people from working on the machine. Send me a photo on the location of the connector

Hi Good question - so I removed the condenser and soaked it in Alcohol gel for a few hours and then used a very long piece of whipper shipper string to loosen the bio film and then hot pressure wash.

@@theoracle6005 thank you kindly. I will try this ! Appreciate your help.

How did you remove it? I removed the 2 screws and released the 3 plastic tabs, but it feels attached at the bottom left corner ​@theoracle6005

​@@benpenzancehave you removed it, i have the same problem that it is stuck on the bottom left.

Yes Heater is open circuit , replace heatpump

@@theoracle6005 Replaced heater pump and now works! Thanks for the help. You are a nice person 🙂👍.

@willyortiz1022 Your most welcome Willy Ortiz - Glad to see you fixed your problem

Hi Nick Check my other videos out and it shows how to remove and install the heatpump.

Two motor available which motor is inlet motor

Hi Chris Iam glad you found the video helpful. Happy to hear you managed to fix your dishwasher

Hi Jonathan Thank you for your message. E18 - check to ensure that the tap filters are clean, if there is any pressure reducing device between the tap and inlet solenoid, please remove this as sometimes the piston inside the pressure reducer can jam shut. Finally replace the heat exchanger inlet valve. The heat exchanger valve can be tested by slightly undoing the valve, and drain the water from the heat exchanger to the wash chamber, essentially opening the valve manually (with power off) Then reinstall the valve and power on, start a cycle. Sequence of operation. Drain pump will run Wash pump runs and test motor current Main inlet solenoid pulsed to check flow meter/water inlet. Once this sequence is done it will want to fill the heat exchanger. Now observe valve operation for noise and excess heat. If it throws E18 during the fill stage ,replace the valve

@@theoracle6005 Thanks so much for the advice! I will check that out. The weird thing with this fault is it never happens until the second or third time the H.E. fills mid-cycle - if you start a cycle you can hear the H E. drain into the dishwasher OK and then hear it being refilled a while later no fault. It's almost as if it occurs once the temperature in the dishwasher has risen. Thanks again!

⁠@@theoracle6005I have a similar model but once it has tested the inlet (and the impeller with reed switch spins) the machine doesn’t then go on. To fill. It seems to think it’s ready to wash as the circulator pump runs. If I add water to the unit manually, it washes. But doesn’t heat. Any clues? It was in storage for a few years and now it is not working. It’d be a shame to throw it. Thanks for any help mate.

Hi just wondering whats the part number

​@@colmscannell2448Sorry can't help with the part number but if you've basic soldering skills just replace the Reed switch on the flow sensor board - it's a generic part and only a couple of bucks from anywhere like Jaycar. Just take a photo of the original and orient the replacement the same way, noting that it is a very thin glass envelope and will crack if you try bending the leads.

Hi Jorge if you change the valve and its still giving the error , then its the board. It is possible that your old valve may have damaged the triac on the motherboard. Motherboard is located on the bottom RHS where the mains plug connects to. In this case best to replace the motherboard

Your welcome :)

How did you go with fixing your dishwasher

@@theoracle6005 your guide in how to get it open was great. But I needed a new part, so just a new one for $1000 lol