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This is great. I’d love to see one on lead acid batteries

thanks

Some say the Victron controllers wont charge the battery till its over 5 volts above the battery. So if I'm getting 16 volts and 18 amps it still isn't charging? That's 288 watts. If this is the case what should I do to raise the voltage? You can charge a battery with 1 amp. (This is a 12 volt system)

Excellent.😊

Hi, quick question relative to your comment about the charge current limit and possibly tripping a breaker on the pedestal. Say for example you have the Shore Limit set to 30 amps (for an RV plugged into a 30 amp outlet) for the AC input current limit and you have a 10 amp load running in an RV. Wouldn't the multiplus limit the charge current to 20 amps while charging the batteries as to not exceed the 30 limit set for the available input thereby tripping the breaker? Thanks!

Why are batteries always stated as Amps while solar panels are watts? In this case I could see 12v but otherwise I'd be guessing 12, 24, 48v which has a huge difference in capacity.

This might be a stupid question… Im using the victron smart shunt to power a trolling motor. It’s just connected to my li time 100 ah battery. Would the setting still all be the same?

Great information 👍

So If i get Lithium set up for my class A motorhome you talked about getting DC-DC converter between the Chasis battery and Alternator, my question is do I just keep my original battery (lead acid) there for the Chasis (driving) battery or do I change that battery to Lithium also? and if so what would that Lithium battery style be called? TIA

Quick question I just changed all of my setting that you have for a 12V LifePO4 100Ah battery. I just fully charged up my battery to 100% with the setting on CLEAR. Would it automatedly read 100% SOC? Or is there another step I need to do for a accurate reading of the SOC of my battery? Thanks!

Thank you this was the most comprehensive setup for this unit I ever saw on UA-cam.

great info man! really good vid. QUESTION!! my victron 30/100 controller to 4 100ah batts in para. with 400watt array controller reads 14.41v and in float, smart shunt shows 13.32. what do you think is going on here? any help is welcomed. thanks again for vid.

We’re having issues getting the downloaded programs to connect to the mk3 for the inverter config … any suggestions?

My battery 14.2 volts is what it charges to

Question, if i have a bank of 4 12v in series 100ah each, how do i put it in there. 48 volt 400 ah or still 12 v. Then connect the red to the positive where?

Very clear explanation. I finally understand things that always seemed a little murky. Nice job and thanks.

Installing the EcoFlow Alternator charger

I can see the list of all the items needed but every single one of them have multiple options to choose from on the site. How do I know which ones to buy?

Be careful connecting an alternator to a Lifepo4 battery - the current controller in the battery can cut out suddenly causing a spike in voltage, maybe frying your alternator.

Thanks bud straight to the point 👍

I didn't listen to your advice and I'm so happy. Lead acid 👍

Other than your video, there is not much information (like you so clearly presented) about converting to lithium. It's time to convert my RV to lithium and now I know the converter needs to be replaced. Thanks and nice job!

com 3 does not come up???

12v 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

Brilliant explanation and exactly how I replaced my lead acid for lithium using all Victron components.

have you ever tried a generic step up buck inverter (dc-dc) to a solar charger as wired to solar panel input side? ok! alternator output 110 amp 12v wired to first RV engine lead acid batt,, then the step up voltage change say a 15 or 20 amp step up buck inverter to solar charger panel, volts n amps set for Li batt. output charging? I also did a 4 ga. (oversized) wired in Anderson connectors 175 amp. secondary 18 hp gas engine (duromax - muffled sound output) at idle rpm to a self ignited output start alt. (Amazon) 1 wire gm 110 amp alt. that runs at idle for 10-12 hrs on 2 gallons of gas as my alternative charging system (noted 10-40 amp max output draw on alt output), so no shore or generator 110 v ac power for complete off road n solar system! I monitor batt charge state and solar at dusk and decide to run for overnight charging or not. am currently looking at dual batt system on flip flop relays. batt life is best if charged full then drained for max life cycle usage. using voltage comparators (black box) to switch between use or run time and charge times. black box also notes current output usage of run batt set to also draw added power from solar or secondary charge alt system - 18 hp alt. to maintain current output state and provide power to charge 2nd batt set and monitor that charging. note 18 hp is electric start with hand recoil incase of all discharge 12 v batt system failure. ie rv main engine batt failure off road recharging system. I have well over 3500 hrs on 18 hp at idle, maintenance: oil change and valve readjustment and v-belts. developed 18 hp idea on lead acid system then went to try solar chargers n panels and now Li and starting dual batt... lead acid weight @68 lbs per 6v batt and still weighs more than dual Li batt system - got plenty of under floor area for space to use - not sure if temp regulation system is need under there yet - bluetooth temp monitors modules to watch application - don't rv in winter though ice fishing could take place. so heating might have to be done - simple solution is 12 v dc 3D printer heated bed plates can do the trick of heater elements wired to a temp thermostat for on off relay as direct batt attachments or as room or box enclosure element control... Note: 6 v battery equalization charging every 3 or so times is recommended for 6 v deep cycle lead batts - that is a 15 v dc charge - electric golf carts utilize equalization batt charging. Ezgo batt chargers equalize charging every time a charge is done. also car/truck 12 v batts are 14,4 v at full charging. during batt cool down readings of 13.6 v typical. 12.7-12.8 v reading at cold state in normal. a top drain on a fully integrated battery digital state load tester drains the top state v for tru load testing of lead acid batteries. the 60 plus fuel tank rarely ever runs out before any dead battery stuff has happened - 18 hp system with ac n heated rv fishing n hunting season. running generators and inverter generators cost is way higher than this setup. Could do a dual LP n gas 18 hp maybe someday. got rid of LP refrigerator wasn't cost effective, replaced with110 v electric also replaced roof ac with mini split more efficient output - under floor space. I've not seen a Li load tester other than the BMI data - which do fail. yea I know negative side attachment as you showed.

Learned a ton from this video, thank you. Extremely well laid out and clear explanations.

It's best not to charge any lithium battery to 100% regularly. 80% charge is just fine, and they will normally last 5 times longer than lead acid batteries.

Excellent Accurate info THANKS 👍👍

Wow great info! Question If I have a eco flow delta pro with 1200W of solar plugged directly into my class A 30amp plug do I need to change out the original lead battery for lithium or will the system In place be able to keep everything safe and not under or over charged the batteries?

I have two Lipo batteries in the back of my van wired together, how do you install when there are two batteries?

can you change the parameters that this works in,? my batts fully charged is 49 volts,to 42 volts, is there a way to change it?

No fire bomb for me.

Excellent video - thanks!

I struggled for a year to do anything with lead acid. Lithium on the other hand has been amazing!

Could you suggest settings for agm battery

We took advice here in Scotland as as we are low power users we were advised to use lead carbon which has worked beautifully for us and save is £1500. Just sayin....

Can I just connect a lithium battery charger to the battery so that it will charge to 14.6vdc after the converter charges it to 13.6vdc? In other words, have the converter and the lithium charger connected at all times. The lithium charger is a smart charger that shuts off when the battery charge is full.

wy is the presenter earing a silly hat - backwards..?

Thank you for that information, much appreciated. M.

A lot of common sense, a shunt is a must have, SOC visibility is vital.

Well done! Best plain language explanation I’ve heard yet. And best, wee dont get words like "LI charger 12354321GI098974567-098jghtrd". Thank you.

Good gracious just a few minutes in and you say lead acid full at 13.6v which is totally wrong. You need to get them to 14.4v and hold them there until the current drops to 1.5% ish of capacity and then drop to a float voltage of around 13.6-13.7. Lithium can be got to full at 14v in fact below that but it takes a lot longer. The actual problem you get is the lithium can cause the alternator to overheat as they can absorb so much current due to their low internal resistance. A car alternator typically outputs 14.2-14.4v unless it’s a ‘smart’ one and are simply not suitable for RV use without a dc-dc charger. Taking lithium to 14.6v is not necessary and that is in fact their upper limit and charging with a lower voltage will actually cause them to be overcharged as they won’t cut off. You really need a charging source that will cut off at a lower voltage, this is much easier than boosting the alternator voltage and driving the BMS to disconnect. My lithiums disconnect charging at 14.1v which gives enough time to do some balancing and doesn’t push the upper envelope where they don’t like to be and it only misses out on a fraction of a percent of capacity for a longer life. I would not advocate a lithium battery without a programmable BMS that can be set to suit your use. The ones with non programmable ones are set more as last ditch protection r systems rather than a management system. I’m sorry if you cover this later but this stopped me in my tracks.

The manual for my Jayco travel trailer says to "...install a DC to DC power converter between the tow vehicle battery charge line and the trailer lithium battery(s) to prevent lithium battery damage." Is this the same as the DC to DC charger you recommend?

what does a system like this cost?

So glad I ran across this. My two T105 batteries are at end of life, and I"m going to replace with a 200 ah litime lithium, and add the Victron Smart Shunt. We do mostly off grid camping, and charge with a generator. Will something like the Victron Victron Blue Smart 12V IP65 Battery Charger be my best option if I don't want to bother replacing the converter in my camper? Or can I run off the DC line from my Yamaha generator straight to the lithium batteries?

Thanks for this clear explanation on the compatibility of existing RV systems and tow vehicle alternator charge circuits to lithium batteries. I have an older 5th wheel rv (no solar) and need to replace my worn out lead acid batteries. I was considering switching to lithium but after checking my converter, it has an output rating of only 13.6V. Thanks to your video I will stick with my same lead acid battery arrangement by using two 6V Golf Cart batteries hooked in series to make 12V. It has served me well for the past 5 years.

Great video, very informative and in plain English. excellent.

14.6V does not make sense. Lithium are 4.2V max per cell. 3 cells series are 12.6V, 4 cells series are 16.8V Clearly 14.6V is nonsensical. The only way to make it work is to have a BMS for the cells [3] and a boost converter to create the 14.6V, maybe you could use 4 cells with a BMS along with a buck converter. I don't know how they are getting the 14.6V rating unless it's not Lithium-Ion.

Thanks for explaining the Lithium battery issues to be aware of. It saved me a lot of trouble.