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kyle5574
Приєднався 9 вер 2006
Electronics, pinball, toys. Sometimes electronic pinball toys.
Williams Pinball Flipper Assemblies 1984-1998
I used some incorrect parts on my Elvira and the Party Monsters (EATPM) pinball flippers. While I was tracking down the proper parts, I ended up doing an exhaustive analysis and comparison of flipper assemblies, sub-assemblies, and individual parts used by Williams between 1984 and 1998.
This video covers all of the core flipper assemblies used in Williams System 9, System 11, and WPC pinball machines, specifically discussing flipper assembly part numbers C-9952 / C-9953, C-11626, C-13174, A-15318, A-15205, and A-15849.
00:00 Problem with my EATPM
03:00 Incorrect crank-link assembly
04:19 Types of Williams flippers
06:47 Core assemblies
07:33 C-9952 / C-9953 (06/1984 - 01/1987)
09:32 C-11626 (03/1987 - 08/1991)
10:44 C-13174 (06/1990 - 08/1991)
11:48 A-15318 (08/1991)
13:18 A-15205 (02/1992 - 04/1993)
14:28 A-15849 (08/1993 - 10/1998)
15:22 Assembly summary and parts breakdown
17:17 Crank-link subassemblies
18:51 Engineering revisions of C-11626
21:24 Updating older assemblies
23:04 Fixing my EATPM
Updates and errata:
- Assembly C-11626 used two different coil stops. The assembly was revised in February 1988 to increase the height of the coil stop, as shown in the C-11626 revision chart at 19:52. Games made before February 1988 used coil stop A-10821; those games were F-14 Tomcat, Fire!, Big Guns, Fire! (Champagne Edition), and Space Station. Later games with C-11626 used coil stop A-12111, which was 1 mm taller. Either coil stop will work in C-11626, but flipper travel will be less than the original design if you use A-12111 in one of those early games.
- Terminator 2 uses assembly C-13174, but is listed at 7:00 as using C-11626.
- Gold Mine is listed as using “System 11” Style assembly C-11626 at 4:38 and 7:00, but Gold Mine is a shuffle bowler, not a pinball.
Please visit the following invaluable websites:
Flipper assembly photographs from: www.thepinballwizard.net
Parts catalog diagrams from: www.pinwiki.com
Invaluable information, including operator manuals and parts lists, from: ipdb.org
Parts images from: www.marcospecialties.com
Inspired by a great series of articles posted at: www.pinballnews.com/learn/flippers/index.html
This video covers all of the core flipper assemblies used in Williams System 9, System 11, and WPC pinball machines, specifically discussing flipper assembly part numbers C-9952 / C-9953, C-11626, C-13174, A-15318, A-15205, and A-15849.
00:00 Problem with my EATPM
03:00 Incorrect crank-link assembly
04:19 Types of Williams flippers
06:47 Core assemblies
07:33 C-9952 / C-9953 (06/1984 - 01/1987)
09:32 C-11626 (03/1987 - 08/1991)
10:44 C-13174 (06/1990 - 08/1991)
11:48 A-15318 (08/1991)
13:18 A-15205 (02/1992 - 04/1993)
14:28 A-15849 (08/1993 - 10/1998)
15:22 Assembly summary and parts breakdown
17:17 Crank-link subassemblies
18:51 Engineering revisions of C-11626
21:24 Updating older assemblies
23:04 Fixing my EATPM
Updates and errata:
- Assembly C-11626 used two different coil stops. The assembly was revised in February 1988 to increase the height of the coil stop, as shown in the C-11626 revision chart at 19:52. Games made before February 1988 used coil stop A-10821; those games were F-14 Tomcat, Fire!, Big Guns, Fire! (Champagne Edition), and Space Station. Later games with C-11626 used coil stop A-12111, which was 1 mm taller. Either coil stop will work in C-11626, but flipper travel will be less than the original design if you use A-12111 in one of those early games.
- Terminator 2 uses assembly C-13174, but is listed at 7:00 as using C-11626.
- Gold Mine is listed as using “System 11” Style assembly C-11626 at 4:38 and 7:00, but Gold Mine is a shuffle bowler, not a pinball.
Please visit the following invaluable websites:
Flipper assembly photographs from: www.thepinballwizard.net
Parts catalog diagrams from: www.pinwiki.com
Invaluable information, including operator manuals and parts lists, from: ipdb.org
Parts images from: www.marcospecialties.com
Inspired by a great series of articles posted at: www.pinballnews.com/learn/flippers/index.html
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Відео
Pinball Switch Matrix
Переглядів 1,1 тис.Рік тому
Correcting a switch matrix problem on my "The Getaway: High Speed II" pinball machine. Demonstrates a switch matrix problem caused by a spinner modification where the machine occasionally thinks a ball is in the supercharger mechanism when the left orbit shot is hit. Explores why pinball machines use a matrix for switches and how the switch matrix works. Uses that knowledge to diagnose and fix ...
Converting a Pinball Machine to LEDs Using LED OCD
Переглядів 2,7 тис.Рік тому
I replaced the incandescent insert lamps with LEDs in my Getaway. LEDs really make the inserts pop, but using LEDs in these old pinball machines can cause ghosting and strobing. This video demonstrates those issues, discusses ways to mitigate them, and shows how the LED OCD add-on lamp controller board alleviates them entirely. 00:00 - Incandescent vs. LEDs 01:01 - Problem with LEDs: Ghosting 0...
Tiger Electronic Pinball
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A look back at Tiger Electronics LCD handhelds and specifically at one of Tiger's first handhelds, Electronic Pinball from 1987. Includes unboxing of unplayed game in original packaging. 00:00 - Tiger Electronic Pinball 01:24 - Defense of Tiger LCD handhelds 04:45 - Electronic Pinball Controls 06:21 - Electronic Pinball Settings 07:04 - Electronic Pinball Gameplay and Scoring 09:27 - Variations...
Cyclone Pinball Rules Walkthrough
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Walkthrough of the rules and shots of the Cyclone pinball machine. 00:00 - Cyclone 00:50 - Rules Card 02:20 - Shuttle Train skill shot 03:12 - 1-2-3 Lanes / Double Scores 04:03 - Trivial Points 04:24 - Ferris Wheel 05:13 - Cyclone Ramp / Jackpot Gate Bonus 07:04 - Shooting Gallery duck targets 07:42 - Ball Toss cat targets 08:23 - Comet Ramp / Million Point shot 10:09 - Spookhouse / Mystery Whe...
Pinball Gameplay of Cyclone
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Gameplay of Cyclone pinball (Williams, 1988), annotated with ruleset. Thanks to pinball.org, TJ Beyer, and Jeff-Z for their Cyclone rule descriptions: pinball.org/rules/cyclone.html www.jeff-z.com/pinball/cyclone/rules/rules.html
American Changer AC250 Change Machine
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Walkthrough of my home arcade / game room change machine, an American Changer AC250. The AC250 is a good choice for a home gameroom because of its small size, its relatively inexpensive price, and its unique point-of-sale keypad. The AC250 is a hopper-fed dispenser, so it provides the authentic arcade feel, but it does not use a dollar validator. The AC250 uses a keypad to directly control how ...
American Girl Pinball Teardown 7: Lights and Switches
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Reverse engineering and customizing "The Flip Side", a 1:5 scale pinball machine created by American Girl (the doll company). This is the 7th video in a series where I disassemble and reverse engineer this cool little machine. In this video we isolate and diagram the circuitry for all of the playfield and backbox components. We examine each of the three types of light circuits, the score digits...
New ramps for Elvira and the Party Monsters Pinball
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Replacing the original 30-year old ramps in my Elvira and the Party Monsters (EATPM) pinball machine with new, reproduction ramps. 00:00 - New ramps 01:38 - Plan to remove old ramps 05:20 - Removing old ramps 07:05 - Replacing broken plastics 09:40 - Applying decals on Party Punch ramp 14:00 - Installing MRS on Party Punch ramp 16:38 - Applying decals on Monster Slide ramps 20:20 - Installing M...
Replacing a Pinball Ramp Gate Switch with MRS
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Replacing a ramp-entry gate switch in my Elvira and the Party Monsters pinball machine with a magnetic reed switch (MRS). MRS solves a couple problems that I've been having with my Monster Slide ramp. The switch on that ramp is difficult to adjust especially because it needs to work in both directions. My switch was only registering a fraction of the time because it was out of adjustment. Worse...
American Girl Pinball Teardown 6: New adapter PCB
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Reverse engineering and customizing "The Flip Side", a 1:5 scale pinball machine created by American Girl (the doll company). This is the 6th video in a series where I disassemble and reverse engineer this cool little machine. In this video we connect the machine to a Teensy microcontroller using a custom printed circuit board (PCB) and control the playfield lights and backbox score digits. A c...
Getaway Pinball Tachometer Mod Trailer
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Trailer for "Getaway Pinball Tachometer Mod" series of videos. Documents the design, implementation, and integration of an automotive tachometer modification for my "The Getaway: High Speed 2" pinball machine. Watch the 6-part series here: ua-cam.com/video/In27oSXnYqU/v-deo.html
American Girl Pinball Teardown Trailer: Parts 1-4
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Trailer for parts 1-4 of the "Teardown of the American Girl Pinball Machine" series. The series documents dismantling and reverse engineering "The Flip Side", a 1:5 scale pinball machine created by American Girl (the doll company). Parts 1-4 of the series cover cabinet and backbox disassembly, circuit tracing, backbox protocol reverse engineering, and displaying score digits using a Teensy micr...
Tomy Skill Squares / Starcades
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A look back at Skill Squares / Starcades, made by Tomy in the 1980's. Skill Squares are small, wind-up target games with little balls that you try to flip at moving targets. They're colorful, fun, and collectible. They're a great example of an 80's mechanical toy the kind of toys we played with before handheld electronic games became common. I had a lot of fun playing with Skill Squares when I ...
American Girl Pinball Teardown 5: New microcontroller
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American Girl Pinball Teardown 2: Circuitry analysis
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American Girl Pinball Teardown 1: Disassembly
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American Girl Pinball Teardown 1: Disassembly
Pinball Gameplay of Elvira and the Party Monsters
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Mini Pinball Machine from American Girl
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Mini Pinball Machine from American Girl
Cyclone Pinball Spookhouse Drop-target Fix
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Cyclone Pinball Spookhouse Drop-target Fix
Pinball Gameplay of The Getaway: High Speed II
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Getaway Pinball Tachometer Mod 5: Optimization and Installation
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Getaway Pinball Tachometer Mod 6: Demonstration
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Just bought this game on ebay!
great great video! i think i have to get it (to germany…) but i need 6 of these!!😭😂
Thank you. I am also sensitive to strobing. Especially GI that's driven with ac power.
I did not know about the lane change switch on the table... sometimes I've been really aggravated with myself because I thought I switched the lanes incorrectly in the chaos. Such a fun table. I've been able to get multiball 3 times in a game, but so far have only been successful in relocking a single ball. I love how the bonus countdown cycles thru the lights on the table at the end of the ball as it tallies up your points. One of my favorite pins. Great tutorial
Super helpful explanation... Im in the middle of trying to add mods and use roll over switches to trigger timer relays.. I have this same setup on my theatre of magic... I was going to piggy back one side of a switch and run an independent ground as part of the trigger but I'm not sure It will work now... neet to think this through
my question is whether i need a diode between the pos and neg trigger to the relay timer - jz801 timer relay.. it has reverse prevention built in which may do the job ?
The JZ801 might already have a flyback/snubber diode across the relay coil. If you can't find schematics for the board, maybe measure resistance across the relay coil terminals on the board and see if the resistance varies depending on the polarity of your leads. If it doesn't have a diode, then, yeah, I would add one. I don't think adding an independent ground on a switch is going to work the way you want though. Maybe think about adding your circuit in-line with the switch, so the wiring goes: row--diode--switch--circuit--column That way when the switch closes, the current has to go through your circuit to get to ground on the column. Keep in mind the switch matrix is scanned many times per second, so the relay is going to try to rapidly open and close whenever the switch is held closed. The timer might not handle that, or the duration of the scan might not be long enough to hold the relay closed. If you have trouble with the relay, I'd look into an optoisolator. They might react faster than relays.
Great video-what type of leds did you install, Clear or frosted lens ?
Thanks! I used frosted, 1SMD bulbs from Comet Pinball--the cheapest, most basic bulbs they have. They're in the GI section. Nobody uses them for inserts because they're NOT non-ghosting, but a benefit to LED OCD is that you don't need fancy non-ghosting bulbs. With LED OCD you get better ramping/fading performance with bulbs that don't have the non-ghosting circuitry. Plus that saves you like $0.20 per bulb.
I Just Got This Game at a Garage Sale Today!
This was really good. Thanks.
Whaou ! This is a masterclass! Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍
Great video! A couple questions (apologies in advance if covered) : 1) How to reset high score? 2) Did you fix the noisy spinner? If so, how? Thanks
Please check. I have a terminator 2, but it is not fliptronics. IS there a way to make sure I get the right rebuild kit? Specify the part number, machine or style? Also, do system 6, etc as I am looking to buy a firepower and cyclone machine.
T2 is one of the early WPC machines that still use the older style flippers. T2 used assembly C-13174. Every parts retailer is different, but you should look for “early WPC”, or the assembly (C-13174), or the date it came out (Jul 1991). …or with this video you could buy each of the parts for C-13174 individually to make sure you get the right parts! I’ve got T2 listed as using C-11626 at 7:00. That’s incorrect. It used C-13174. I made a note in the errata in the video description.
I don’t know anything before System 9. Cyclone is System 11 and uses C-11626 so this video has you covered there.
Great walkthrough! We had this machine in our office and I loved playing it over lunch. They recently downsized their square footage and no longer had room for this so it now finds it's permanent home in our basement. Excited to get it back into like-new condition; including a playfield swap as well. Cheers!
This is actually better than the recently announced NWT Black Hole Replicade
This is super cool! I would love to learn how to do this.
You can! I didn't know how to do it when I started. These videos pretty much walk through my learning process. Just doesn't show all the Google searches.
now THATS entertainment...
Got one for my wife its the only one I can find on any e-market toys. This one of a kind. Look so realistic miniature. Made of wood and metal mechanical parts. Better then all plastic pinball toys and digital. Toys. Rare cool toy!
Kyle, What is confusing is that DC voltage/DC current only travels in one direction from Positive Vcc to Ground, so adding the Diodes doesn't make sense because DC voltage/DC current can't Backfeed and flow backwards from ground back to +Vcc. The Rows and Columns are using a Sensing circuit but not sure how the sensing circuit senses the rows and columns.
The current isn’t flowing backward, it’s just finding alternate paths to ground. If we apply current to one row at a time, and we ground one column at a time, and if we see current getting to ground on that column, then we know that the switch at the intersection was closed. But that only works if the current is only allowed to flow through that one switch. If current can flow through other switches, then it can flow AROUND the switch at the intersection and find a path to ground through any other closed switches, and it looks like the switch at the intersection was closed even if it wasn’t closed. To prevent that, we want to make sure that current can only flow from row to column, not from column to row. Diodes ensure that. Check out 19:20 for an example of current finding an alternative path to ground and how diodes block that path.
@@kyle5574 watch at time 24:30 you mention when the spinners switch is CLOSED the DC current can flow from Column to Row its colored in RED, which is not true because DC current can only flow from +Vcc to ground, from from ground to +Vcc. Why are you saying that the DC current is Bi-Directional that it flows from Row to column in GREEN and can also flow from column to Row in RED?
The current is still going from source to ground, even when it's going from column to row across a switch. Look at the picture a few seconds later. Look at switch 21 (upper right in the picture). The rest of the switches are fine, but the current is flowing "backwards" across switch 21, from column to row. Since we don't have diodes in this picture, the current is allowed to flow in either direction across the switches. In this case it's finding an alternate path to ground, around the open switch, and through 3 other closed switches. If the switches had diodes, the current would only flow across the switch in the correct direction and there would be no path to ground in this case.
@@kyle5574 Yes true the current is going from +Vcc source to ground even when the current is going from Column to Row across a Switch, ( this isn't considered backwards current flow, its considered an alterative path to ground by using column to row instead of using row to column). When DC current is flowing from Column to Row across a switch it causing "Ghosting errors" that is what other techs call it. The diodes don't prevent Anti Ghosting errors so if multiple switches are CLOSED the CPU has to register ALL the closed switches but the diodes don't fix or prevent Anti Ghosting errors. I don't think you have made a video lesson about Anti Ghosting errors for pinball switch matrix circuits.
A friend and I used to play this in 88-89 in Haysville Ks. We played it so much that we could get ridiculously high scores! When I heard the sounds from this again, it brought back a rush of memories that I cherish so much!
My wife and I played this game back in the 90s. And we just bought one and still didn't know all the things in it. Appreciate your video. We love playing it every weekend here at the house.
Do you have this mod for sale?
No, unfortunately not. The parts I used back then are no longer available. Maybe someday I’ll redesign it to use modern parts. I’ll post an update if I do.
Got one in my T2 and will be installing them in my Pinbot and STTNG.
Thank you for your work on this video!
6:16 "Cats Meow"
That's Sophie!
My favorite pinball game! I used to play this at my uncle's arcade. This and Pinbot!
cool video :) Me and my Dad went through a pinball phase back in the 1990s (well, we only ever had 2) .. I might get back to it some day, in which case I'll come here for inspiration! :)
Interesting watch, I own a Getaway HS 2. I did a lot of mods to mine, the spinner is interesting but I don't think I woud add one to mine especially when it wasn't designed to have one in this game. I am thinking the spinner is what is causing your switch problems.
Thanks for the great and thorough explanation. Now it is time to bench some Big Guns solenoids.
This is an incredible video of the Williams history for the flippers! Thank you very much for such detailed information about each generation of flipper assembly! It was quite a bunch of information, but super interesting to watch!
Amazing video. I'm better prepared, heaven forbid, I actually find a nice Cyclone for my lineup.
Have one in all my games that are compatible with it. Wouldn’t be without.
The worst thing about LED OCD is the cost. A default less configurable option would be great. I would buy a ton of those
It's not cheap, but the improvement is significant. If you haven't already converted a game to LEDs, then the cost of LED OCD is partially offset by buying cheap LEDs. With LED OCD, you can, and should!, buy cheap no-frills LEDs. Without LED OCD, you have to buy more-expensive non-ghosting LEDs, and if strobing bothers you then you might need extra-expensive LEDs with a capacitor that tries to combat strobing. The extra cost of more expensive LEDs adds up when you're doing the whole machine--and you can totally avoid that with LED OCD.
I miss this machine so much. All we did was play this and the Monday Night Football machine.
Awesome mod!
Great video, I have a question about the flippers. When the flippers are all the way down, should the ball roll completely smoothly from the in-lanes onto the flipper? Its been 20 years since I played this and don't remember how it used to be, but my memory tells me it should be a seamless transfer from the in-lanes to the flipper, The issue is on the machine my friend bought, it seems to 'bump' a a little bit (very slightly) when the ball transfers from the in-lanes to the flippers but its enough that i feel the ball isn't totally flush with the flipper when it first rolls onto it. That is to say, I think the flipper bumper might be slightly enlarged so that its not 100 percent flush with the alley (sorry for lack of better terminology)
@MrCuriousModding The ball should roll smoothly on to the flipper from the flipper return lane. The problem is likely that your metal flipper return frame is worn down. Cliffy makes enhanced flipper return frames to replace them and to help fill in the gap between the frame and the flipper. I installed them on my Sorcerer and made a video about them. ua-cam.com/video/7QIA64qRI6Q/v-deo.html
Excellent explanation in layman’s term! Thank you
Lovely
Dude don’t shoot vertical video!!!
Welcome to pinball, where the playfields are 6.5 degrees off horizontal, and the videos are vertical.
Great video. Loved the real-time information on the left.
In 1988-89, this was the one I played the most. I don't think I understood 1/10th of what you showed but I did know enough to get a few things I was going after. The mystery wheel luck part added to the rewarding fun and I remember earning extra balls and probably replays which was better than how well I did on other machines that predated this. Your walkthrough 2x multiplies the fun.
Was wondering, is there any way of changing out the Opto sensors and putting in microswitches instead? So when a pinball rolls over the microswitch, have it become a closed circuit? Wondering if this could be possible and how it could be done.
It'd be pretty cool to convert this machine into something with a more traditional playfield with mechanisms mounted underneath like that. As-is though, I think you'd run into some challenges. There's not much room between the playfield and the PCB to mount switches. You'd have to find some pretty small switches too since the ball is so small/light. If I was going to tackle something like that, I think I'd try to replace the flippers instead. It'd be pretty sweet to have little electronic solenoid-driven flippers instead of manual ones!
@@kyle5574 Actually I was thinking of using this on a fullsized pinball machine with missing backboard and CPU. Cut a slot in the playfield apron to house the score display. Mount this underneath playfield on the one side of the machine which would be plenty of clearance and no interference to any of the mechanical components by the flipper mechanism underneath. So as you're playing the game, all you have to do is look down by your left hand to see your score, instead of seeing it in the backbox. For the scoring itself, hardwire the scoring to the schematic of the wires of the actual pinball machine so you're still using and utilizing all the wiring from the targets of the game but to American Girl scoring instead. For all the solenoids, have them wired up to different power supply units 24vdc for flippers for example that run independently from American Girl. Just using American Girl for scoring only but also need to figure out how to convert opto sensors into accepting the switches I currently have for my pinball machine for pinball drain and ball location for example. If I can get over that last hurtle, then I can turn this project into a completed reality.
This is the pinball I played the most. I gave it a lot of attention in 88-89. It must have been the mixture of skill and luck. Nice to have this here to fix my memories. With the glass off, it's very different sounding but seeing it all again with good game play is satisfying.
Gonna be looking out for a deal on one of these!
I'd love to see an update on this project! Are they all sitting on a shelf, or otherwise displayed together? How do you have them set up so that they are still easy to play, now that they are all wired together? Anyways, very cool project and it was awesome seeing them all turned on at once! Very cool!
I over-engineered this one! I ended up abandoning the idea of powering them all. I just put lithium batteries in them instead. All the wiring was a mess and made it hard to take them off the shelf to play. It would have been really cool to turn them all on at once with a switch, and leave them running with the attract sounds, but the problem is that they don't stay on very long before they automatically turn off. So turning them all on is a pretty short-lived experience. Lithium batteries were expensive, but no more expensive than all those adapters.
@@kyle5574 Ah, well it happens! Still a good idea. Thank you so much for the update. LI batteries do sound like a solution that makes for a more playable display!
The very rare 7x Boomerang multiplier bonus!!!! lol. Out of curiosity, is there any reason to go for the Boomerang after getting 7x since that seems to be the last award it gives?
I don’t think I’ve ever managed to hit it more than 6 times to find out what happens after 7x! It does continue to light after awarding 7x, and it’s a decent value at 50k when lit, but I don’t think I’d go for it after getting 7x because it’s too hard to hit. Next time I have the glass off I’ll see what happens after 7x.
1985-88 USC Law School basement. Spent a lot time n money on this game!!!!
What do they charge per switch?
Cost might depend on the type of switch. Message Pinside user Sonic for information. Just for reference, the ramp switch shown in the video was $30 USD at the time.
@@kyle5574 Cool thanks!
How does this switch work when it has no diode? Does it habe a diode built in? I want to put one under a saucer that the regular switch binds, but need to make sure it wont mess up other switches in my rows or columns with it.
I asked M&M Creations the same thing. Especially because I tried to test it with a multimeter and a ball and I couldn't get it to trigger. Their response was something like "That's the magic of MRS." The diode must be built-in. It works great in the machine and doesn't cause any issues with the switch matrix.
Great video! I just got a Road Show which has a similar issue with a rollunder switch... trying to decide what to do about it but this video makes the MRS seem like a pretty good idea.
It's a great product and it works really well. Just make sure you spend some time test fitting it and testing it with an actual ball. It might not go exactly where the old switch was. It has to be in a spot on the ramp where it can pretty much span the entire width of the ramp. And it also needs to be where the ball is sure to be making solid contact with the ramp surface. That means it probably needs to go further up the ramp than the original switch.
Great explanation!! Thks
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