I just did this lubrication for the first time on my 2022 Leaf (Canadian SV+) and the video was very helpful in preparing. I did note a few differences: 1. The bolts retaining the pins have 14 mm heads in the front, but 13 mm in the rear, with a torx socket as well. 2. The rear bolts were installed with blue Loctite in the rear (factory I assume, since I bought the car new and have had no brake service to date). No loctite on the front ones. 3. The reat bolts are NOT integral to the pins so the removal approach is identical to the front and requires caliper removal. The two brake lines in the rear complicate things a bit so I supported the caliper on a large block rather than trying to hang it up while ding the work. 4. Due to the Loctite, the rear bolts required holding the slide pin to break the bolts loose and avoid them rotating. There is a hex head on the pins (front and rear) which looks to be 16 mm (odd size) or maybe 17 mm. It was too big to fit my 15 mm wrench and the space is too narrow to try my 17 mm so I was obliged to use a thin adjustable wrench to hold it. 5. I also cleaned the piston faces and caliper contact points for good measure and used some anti squeal lubricant on them to reduce future corrosion.
had severely and unevenly worn front pads (July 2020). my guide pins on a 2012 were fine, but my problem was a stuck pad/corroded hardware (Michigan). the inners were seized and taking most of the breaking. especially if you're in a snow region, check that your pads move freely as well as on the pins when you do tire rotations.
Every year, just open it up and grease everything. If you spend just 1 hour on each wheel, that is 4 Hours PER YEAR... Imagine, 4 Hours per year is nothing!
Alex is right about that. I was surprised to see how stuck the pad was. WRT Jordan's point - I did two wheels, and it took about five hours. Because you have to put it up on jackstands, you might as well do the tire rotation when you do it, you need to do some cleaning before you slap new grease on, I replaced a brake hose while I was there (that took about 15 minutes), and then I bled the brakes. It would be 4hrs per year if you had a big garage with a lift., but most of us don't.
Nice video, thank you! - I would like to know more about the silicone based grease you were using, can you put it on the description? Also the areas that you worked around is it sprayed with some sort of protective layer?
That car is 11 years old, I'm not painting the calipers, the seals will leak before the rust goes through the castings. It would look nicer though, I will give you that.
obviously not a mechanic .. great video.. but .never heard of loctite or anti seize grease on the brake pad sliding parts . putting one of the pads against the pistons would allow BOTH pistons to be retracted together .
you are right @Mr._Tony, I used regular Permatex 24120 Silicone brake grease because that's what's available near me (not that it's anything special), but i would not use anti seize on sliding surface because it contains grits and it's not a lubricant. Also thanks Richard for the compliment.
Perfect video! Very clear! Please do more on the Nissan Leaf first generation!
Great video! Please do more on the LEAF!
I just did this lubrication for the first time on my 2022 Leaf (Canadian SV+) and the video was very helpful in preparing. I did note a few differences: 1. The bolts retaining the pins have 14 mm heads in the front, but 13 mm in the rear, with a torx socket as well. 2. The rear bolts were installed with blue Loctite in the rear (factory I assume, since I bought the car new and have had no brake service to date). No loctite on the front ones. 3. The reat bolts are NOT integral to the pins so the removal approach is identical to the front and requires caliper removal. The two brake lines in the rear complicate things a bit so I supported the caliper on a large block rather than trying to hang it up while ding the work. 4. Due to the Loctite, the rear bolts required holding the slide pin to break the bolts loose and avoid them rotating. There is a hex head on the pins (front and rear) which looks to be 16 mm (odd size) or maybe 17 mm. It was too big to fit my 15 mm wrench and the space is too narrow to try my 17 mm so I was obliged to use a thin adjustable wrench to hold it. 5. I also cleaned the piston faces and caliper contact points for good measure and used some anti squeal lubricant on them to reduce future corrosion.
Cool, it's good to know the difference with the gen 2, although they are similar, your comment will help other gen 2 users.
had severely and unevenly worn front pads (July 2020). my guide pins on a 2012 were fine, but my problem was a stuck pad/corroded hardware (Michigan). the inners were seized and taking most of the breaking. especially if you're in a snow region, check that your pads move freely as well as on the pins when you do tire rotations.
Every year, just open it up and grease everything. If you spend just 1 hour on each wheel, that is 4 Hours PER YEAR... Imagine, 4 Hours per year is nothing!
Alex is right about that. I was surprised to see how stuck the pad was. WRT Jordan's point - I did two wheels, and it took about five hours. Because you have to put it up on jackstands, you might as well do the tire rotation when you do it, you need to do some cleaning before you slap new grease on, I replaced a brake hose while I was there (that took about 15 minutes), and then I bled the brakes. It would be 4hrs per year if you had a big garage with a lift., but most of us don't.
Great vid. Keep it up!
Nice video, thank you! - I would like to know more about the silicone based grease you were using, can you put it on the description? Also the areas that you worked around is it sprayed with some sort of protective layer?
Any silicone based would do, just like a regular Car. Also, it looks like dirt / mud around where he's working.
Very useful, thank you.
Thx
Great info !!!
Nice!
Thx!
Nice video👍🏻
I do this every year just to prevent it.
If you go to the trouble of removing the callipers consider cleaning the pistons and callipers ua-cam.com/video/F4CDe5ARBSI/v-deo.html
That car is 11 years old, I'm not painting the calipers, the seals will leak before the rust goes through the castings. It would look nicer though, I will give you that.
obviously not a mechanic .. great video.. but .never heard of loctite or anti seize grease on the brake pad sliding parts . putting one of the pads against the pistons would allow BOTH pistons to be retracted together .
Well he didn’t recommend neither Locktite nor anti seize grease, he used silicone grease ☝🏻
Not sure he watched the same video LOL@@Mr._Tony
you are right @Mr._Tony, I used regular Permatex 24120 Silicone brake grease because that's what's available near me (not that it's anything special), but i would not use anti seize on sliding surface because it contains grits and it's not a lubricant. Also thanks Richard for the compliment.