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Thanks. Yeh they’re pretty good machines. I work on a massive CnC train Wheel lathe and my understanding of cnc has really helped me get to grips with my printer. There are obviously quirks of adding material rather than removing it like bed adhesion and the hot end clogging up but I wasn’t learning from nothing. Also the online communities are really great for help.

The cold and the dust are the big things for me. I’m really impressed with it so far.

The ambient temperature inside it really holds its own.

@larryfroot indeed. Was quite surprised how warm it stayed even though it was minus 4 in the garage. Next step is to see if I can get octoprint working effectively enough on a pi zero 2.

If you’ve got the right tools, the back side of the nut can be accessed from inside the door bin iirc, I had one of the captive nuts come loose once and had to chisel my way in there and hold onto it with something.

Thanks. Those supports are from Owens fabrication. They are his subframe strengthening kit. Beware the heat of attaching this can distort the subframe so I cocked my first subframe up. Second time I welded it in while mounted to the car, I fitted the support arms first and did the rest with the subframe attached so it couldn’t move.

Thanks. Happy new year to you too

I've just bought a cheap Polly tunnel for my clubby estate.. nearly lost it twice with the high winds.. but it's giving some protection... Wishing you and your family all the best for 2025

Thanks. You too. I’ve got plans to build a car port with a corrugated poly roof of some kind. Just need to financially recover after the kitchen, bathroom and Christmas.

The run with the hob is 1460mm from side to side centralising the hob over the top units not the bottom ones as the room is slightly out of plumb and it notices more on the top units than it does the bottom ones.

@@NickThornhill Cheers, had a lengthy argument with the other half over a similar issue 😅

No problem. Lol. Glad to be of help.

Thanks. I have now done that as it was a little off. The mid-measure did what it needed to. I had to get something in place to get it all working at short notice. I’ve got a stand to build for the tumble dryer with a shelf to go under it so it all needs to be adjusted in the future. Luckily that flat trunking comes in a pack of 4x1m lengths so I’ll measure it properly next time.

@NickThornhill I've been doing my house over the last few years ( other half hates me lol ) .. kitchen nearly done kick plates and flooring and that's one room done🤣

I’m sure ive nearly been divorced a few times over my DIY on the house. Lol. We’re 12 years in, lounge, daughters room, boys room, dining room, hall stairs and landing and now kitchen done so far. Just the bathroom and our bedroom left inside but the outside also needs soffits, gutters , cladding, etc. it’s never ending. Every room has been stripped back like this one to a bare shell, re-wired, plumbing moved and then boarded and plastered. It’s a different house all together that we’ve moved into.

@@NickThornhill sounds like my house 👍🏻

Cheers. Yes the leader of the opposition needs to be appeased occasionally 😜. Through exhausting work (kitchen start to finish was 6 weeks, then I moved on and revamped the bathroom and all the while the weather has been appalling. Mini will see the light of day again soon, hopefully before new years and I’ll see how the car is faring under the cover. In the meantime thanks for checking in.

Thanks. 🤩 It’s a Howdens kitchen. The lower cupboards are Clerkenwell Super Matt Marine Blue. The top cupboards are Super Matt White. The worktops are Apollo Lyskam White Quartz

@NickThornhill thanks Nick ... looking for ideas for our current kitchen extension (and subterranean workshop) project 🙂

Thanks. I’m really pleased with it.

Aahh I’m with you. Something to go between the drive flange and the bearing to stop the side pressure on the bearing surface. Noted. It didn’t take much pressure to press this in but if it fails again short term (we’re 6 months in now) I’ll 3D print something for the task of replacing it next time.

I believe the OEM part number is 335032 however mine was an early car without ABS. I suspect there could have been a different part for different year cars with different specs so always double check with your cars specs local supplier. If it helps, I used AutoDoc to get the part number and I’ve used them for parts before.

Yeh they’re failing h in pairs 😂

I like to keep it simple.

I think the cam pulley bolt can work loose over time. That puts the load directly on the tooth which over time will break. I had a strange tapping noise up to that point but it had gone away. Until it broke. I’d had it apart before and definitely checked it was tight afterwards. Mine was a high miles car. North of 180’000 when this happened so maybe it’s an age thing. I drilled out the back side of the pulley and loctited in an m5 bolt to act as the new tooth. I had to file it to shape but it worked fine. I also had to replace 3 bent valves but they are only £15 each. I sold the car at 215’000 miles to a banger racer and it had many outings before it died.

@ Aa the soft tapping noise what I and others thought it was some play on the bearings … Now I understand also why sometimes I needed to start a bit longer before the engine started running . Mine is also a temporary car but I love it too much to let it go away ..

@Chappomusic that’s the one. The tapping wasn’t always there on mine, even my friend who’s tuned these engines for years couldn’t identify the sound. Luckily they’re so cheap to fix. You’ve probably got to take the head off to check your valves, they do like to blow a head gasket too so you Might as well drop in a new cam belt. Also the head bolts are worth replacing as they stretch. When you come to reassemble it, make sure the block thread holes for the head bolts are bone dry and clean, many a Peugeot block gets killed through hydraulicing the head bolts in the block.

I’m afraid I don’t know. Mine hasn’t come undone. They can apparently differ depending on model/year so do a bit of google search but the bolt is a 1 time use only.

Happy to share it as I was in your shoes with no video. Lol. As far as I can remember, the top ones only keep its position Loosly in place. The weight is carried by the bottom ones and those rubbers can perish or go in up side down.

That’s a tough call. I’ve got 4 doors and with 2 coats and a little rub down between I’ve used half of a 2.5l tin. Now nearly 3 years later they need a re-coat so I’ll be onto that soon with the rest of that same tin.

That’s cool, mine were from benchmark but probably the same supplier. Nice to have you here. Hope I helped in some way. I’ve got to re-do the finish on these doors now 2 or 3 years later. Keep an eye out for that video in the future.

@@NickThornhill yes thank you, your video was useful. I found the door and Osmo oil a pleasure to work with and am happy with the results. 3 doors down, 9 to go!

Thanks. It’s been a real journey but glad we all got to be involved 🥰

They’re a wonderful thing to have, sadly the one for my house was long gone when we moved in. Just the chimney remains.

Thanks. 🙏

Looking good so far ... You planning on fitting a heat sensor for the smoke alarms

@becko1969 yes. Heat and smoke combined. Seems the best way to avoid false alarms.

I used an 6 or 8mm cobalt drill bit to start the first hole off and then carried on up the sizes until I popped through. You’ve only got to go 10mm or so in as the bearing carrier has the actual threads in it so you can kill it, just don’t damage the rear arm. The grinding of the drive flange was fairly easy once I knocked the studs out of the way.

Have you removed a drum brake rear axle and fitted a disc brake one??

@@NickThornhill This car came with factory-installed brake discs. Perhaps I have received a refurbished rear axle for drum brakes despite ordering one for disc brakes. Are the wheel hub spindles on the control arms shorter on drum brakes compared to disc brakes?

@Yannis2022 I’m not sure but it’s the only difference I can think of on the rear end aside from abs/non abs and I can see that effecting the spindles.

Just the Costs mainly. The bearing alone was a lot cheaper and really not that much faff. £75 all done.

The only driveshaft parts I could find for mine at the time were complete driveshafts I’m afraid. Sadly it seems a lot of smaller parts are no longer available for us retail customers. You could try Autodoc and have a search through the components catalog. The other option is 7zap. You might find your part number there and then you can find the snap ring on eBay. As for whether it’ll be ok, personally if it can’t fall off the driveshaft, I’d give it a try myself but obviously things could go south doing that.

Thanks. Part of me wishes I’d filmed it all now but I was under time pressure to get to work so had to focus on the car.

Sorry which aluminium head from moss motors?? Not heard of that one. Is it a regular 5 port head??

@@NickThornhill did you get my reply with the link to it, it's not showing now, I bet youtube deleted it as spam

No sorry. It didn’t come up on my page. Drop me a message on Instagram. Nicks_Projects

I think it comes down to cost and the expected use of the engine. If it’s a high power, high load, high rpm engine, it’s really important to have all that mechanism hugely reliable and gears do that job perfectly. However when cost comes into it, a chain has a very reasonable life, it’s cheap to make and easy to replace, also requires very little maintenance aside from a new tensioner every now and then and a replacement chain at 100’000 miles when everything else is probably also worn out.

@@NickThornhill Thanks for replying, Nick, take care & goodluck

Glad to know I’m not alone. I’ve not filmed anything of the DIY so far 🫣 but I have got lots of pictures

@@NickThornhill full house refurbishment for me and I've just bought another project 🤦🏻‍♂️. My UA-cam videos nowhere as good as yours .. mine are simply walk arounds .. keep it up .. great content

@becko1969 to be fair my kitchen is shaping up to be a walk through after it’s done at my current rate 😂😂 I’ll check yours out.

Sorry a bit lost with you’d question. Are you talking about timing the cam to the engine??

@NickThornhill I think so lol, basically the roller in the cylinder head controls all the valves ... usually, it's locked in place, but if for whatever reason it had to be removed or replaced , how do you know which way to put it back in? Hope that makes more sense.

There’s a locking tab on the cam pulley (My tab broke off and I have a short on the the repair I did for that, this is the reason I’m doing this rebuild) That tab locates in the end of the cam to the pulley. That should be fairly obvious to get right. Once the pulley is fitted, There should also be a hole in one of the spokes of the cam pulley somewhere, that lines up with the hole in the side of the cylinder head. I think I used an M10 or M12 bolt to locate that. Also to time the engine correctly to the cam, you need to put the flywheel locking pin in too. For this I use a bit of 3/16 brake pipe. I think the actual hole is 5mm or 6mm. The flywheel locking pin hole is down low on the front right side of the engine, not easy to spot but google it and you should find it. Once all the locking pins are correctly positioned, just slide the cam belt on and tension it and it should all be fine. Before you try to start the car, turn the engine over by hand with the spark plugs out a couple of times to make sure none of the valves hit the pistons. Word of warning for If the cylinder head is off the car, DO NOT TURN THE CRANK UNTIL YOU REFIT THE HEAD. You can unseat the bore liners if you do.

@NickThornhill thanks for the info I may have a crack at it in the next week or so I think I get it 😅 we will see lol

@A7Xdookie good luck. You can briefly see the locking pins and my repair of the cam pulley on one of my shorts. Let me know how you get on.

No worries. Glad people are finding it useful.

Nice. Thanks for that. I’m no mathematician but I was hoping that it was a significant change. I’ll have to check but I think the ID of the fittings is close to 15mm but it’s still a significant jump in size.

Apparently you can also use aluminium. It’s called weld backing although from my experience it needs more understanding and a bit more practice to be as effective as I need it to be. 😂 joys of a shite welder. (Both me and the machine) 😂😂

@@NickThornhill sure, you'll be better with more practice 💪 I'm a worst welder, I've just a bit of experience with arc welding on steel plates much thicker than body panels 😄

@@6942Mini honestly I think 9/10 of my issues are the welder. I started on gas welding, then arc welding on bus chassis. Mig came later but the welder we had was top notch. My current one was £60 new in the box in lockdown but never used for 10 years before that. Only an entry level machine and I know I’m asking a lot of it. It blows through so easily on minimum power. Just can’t get enough power out of it.

The perils of welding on a wooden workbench 😂😂 thanks for the sub. Nice to have you here.

Yeh made me chuckle thinking about it 😂😂

Not sure Noaksie ever swore on camera though 😂

Yes I was going for that kind of vibe 😂😂

@@NickThornhill 🤣

@GPZ_Biker I don’t intentionally swear. . . . . . Until things go wrong anyway😂😂😜

Nice one. Look forward to seeing it materialise.

The way they all clip together would make it really challenging to separate them in the car. I know a re-gas for the aircon can be an extra expense but by god taking them all out together will be 100 times easier than trying to drop out just the radiator. Also worth noting that the ac radiator is the first one to get stone chips and any other damage so for a little extra cost, it could be worth doing as I did and replacing both rads happy in the knowledge that you can leave the whole area alone for a few more years.

​@@NickThornhillMy radiator is leaking but the Aircon is absolutely fine. I'm hoping to just get the radiator and fan out and leave the condenser inside, otherwise I need to get the aircon drained and that'll be money down the drain!

I have done it before with a CMAX. It’s tricky though and you’ll need some height like I had for this to be able to do it. Remember that they lock together and will need separating.

Thanks

I’ve got a work bench at the other end of the garage but it’s half full with stuff that should be on the car atm, the layout of the garage is far from ideal with the kids bikes and gardening stuff in there too. My whole garage needs to be knocked down and rebuild with a carport on the front to cover the mini and a separate shed is needed for the bikes and garden stuff. All In good time though, car first.

Deep pockets is the key, lol. The clubman inner wings are the real key to a good clubman front end, it’s so obvious when someone puts a clubby front on a round nose. Hence my efforts to create my own. When I made this car in 2007, a round nose was so much cheaper and clubby NOS panels were a bit hard to get hold of and it was going to be a track car so I didn’t care. Now I regret cutting that all off.

Thats my plan to change the inner wings too

@@JasonKane77 be prepared to spend £600 for them. Theres no pattern panels. Only one side is available in the front 20” now. If you go forward through some of my videos, I made the rear section of the clubman inner wings myself and I plan to make the rest too.

@@NickThornhill ill be watching mate, im just halfway through a sidewalk rebuild the now - new back panel, full boot floor, new floor panel and next the front end (inner/outer wings front panel and scuttle) Not bothered about the cost of it all as its going to be a right solid car at the end of it

Will do. I definitely need to get some new ones. The 50 year old Gilbows are dead and the others just can’t hack cutting through 0.8mm steel, I got them for my aluminium dash many moons ago.

We’ve all got our processes. Maybe my material usage wasn’t the most logical but I’m happy with how it turned out.

Yeh I hear you, I could have done that, nothing is wasted though. The piece of metal I started with was already a piece of scrap from someone else’s project. I’ve kept all the offcuts and as with most things, it will get used eventually.