Відео

Thanks. Part of me wishes I’d filmed it all now but I was under time pressure to get to work so had to focus on the car.

Sorry which aluminium head from moss motors?? Not heard of that one. Is it a regular 5 port head??

@@NickThornhill did you get my reply with the link to it, it's not showing now, I bet youtube deleted it as spam

No sorry. It didn’t come up on my page. Drop me a message on Instagram. Nicks_Projects

I think it comes down to cost and the expected use of the engine. If it’s a high power, high load, high rpm engine, it’s really important to have all that mechanism hugely reliable and gears do that job perfectly. However when cost comes into it, a chain has a very reasonable life, it’s cheap to make and easy to replace, also requires very little maintenance aside from a new tensioner every now and then and a replacement chain at 100’000 miles when everything else is probably also worn out.

@@NickThornhill Thanks for replying, Nick, take care & goodluck

Glad to know I’m not alone. I’ve not filmed anything of the DIY so far 🫣 but I have got lots of pictures

@@NickThornhill full house refurbishment for me and I've just bought another project 🤦🏻‍♂️. My UA-cam videos nowhere as good as yours .. mine are simply walk arounds .. keep it up .. great content

@becko1969 to be fair my kitchen is shaping up to be a walk through after it’s done at my current rate 😂😂 I’ll check yours out.

Sorry a bit lost with you’d question. Are you talking about timing the cam to the engine??

@NickThornhill I think so lol, basically the roller in the cylinder head controls all the valves ... usually, it's locked in place, but if for whatever reason it had to be removed or replaced , how do you know which way to put it back in? Hope that makes more sense.

There’s a locking tab on the cam pulley (My tab broke off and I have a short on the the repair I did for that, this is the reason I’m doing this rebuild) That tab locates in the end of the cam to the pulley. That should be fairly obvious to get right. Once the pulley is fitted, There should also be a hole in one of the spokes of the cam pulley somewhere, that lines up with the hole in the side of the cylinder head. I think I used an M10 or M12 bolt to locate that. Also to time the engine correctly to the cam, you need to put the flywheel locking pin in too. For this I use a bit of 3/16 brake pipe. I think the actual hole is 5mm or 6mm. The flywheel locking pin hole is down low on the front right side of the engine, not easy to spot but google it and you should find it. Once all the locking pins are correctly positioned, just slide the cam belt on and tension it and it should all be fine. Before you try to start the car, turn the engine over by hand with the spark plugs out a couple of times to make sure none of the valves hit the pistons. Word of warning for If the cylinder head is off the car, DO NOT TURN THE CRANK UNTIL YOU REFIT THE HEAD. You can unseat the bore liners if you do.

@NickThornhill thanks for the info I may have a crack at it in the next week or so I think I get it 😅 we will see lol

@A7Xdookie good luck. You can briefly see the locking pins and my repair of the cam pulley on one of my shorts. Let me know how you get on.

No worries. Glad people are finding it useful.

Nice. Thanks for that. I’m no mathematician but I was hoping that it was a significant change. I’ll have to check but I think the ID of the fittings is close to 15mm but it’s still a significant jump in size.

Apparently you can also use aluminium. It’s called weld backing although from my experience it needs more understanding and a bit more practice to be as effective as I need it to be. 😂 joys of a shite welder. (Both me and the machine) 😂😂

@@NickThornhill sure, you'll be better with more practice 💪 I'm a worst welder, I've just a bit of experience with arc welding on steel plates much thicker than body panels 😄

@@6942Mini honestly I think 9/10 of my issues are the welder. I started on gas welding, then arc welding on bus chassis. Mig came later but the welder we had was top notch. My current one was £60 new in the box in lockdown but never used for 10 years before that. Only an entry level machine and I know I’m asking a lot of it. It blows through so easily on minimum power. Just can’t get enough power out of it.

The perils of welding on a wooden workbench 😂😂 thanks for the sub. Nice to have you here.

Yeh made me chuckle thinking about it 😂😂

Not sure Noaksie ever swore on camera though 😂

Yes I was going for that kind of vibe 😂😂

@@NickThornhill 🤣

@GPZ_Biker I don’t intentionally swear. . . . . . Until things go wrong anyway😂😂😜

Nice one. Look forward to seeing it materialise.

The way they all clip together would make it really challenging to separate them in the car. I know a re-gas for the aircon can be an extra expense but by god taking them all out together will be 100 times easier than trying to drop out just the radiator. Also worth noting that the ac radiator is the first one to get stone chips and any other damage so for a little extra cost, it could be worth doing as I did and replacing both rads happy in the knowledge that you can leave the whole area alone for a few more years.

​@@NickThornhillMy radiator is leaking but the Aircon is absolutely fine. I'm hoping to just get the radiator and fan out and leave the condenser inside, otherwise I need to get the aircon drained and that'll be money down the drain!

I have done it before with a CMAX. It’s tricky though and you’ll need some height like I had for this to be able to do it. Remember that they lock together and will need separating.

Thanks

I’ve got a work bench at the other end of the garage but it’s half full with stuff that should be on the car atm, the layout of the garage is far from ideal with the kids bikes and gardening stuff in there too. My whole garage needs to be knocked down and rebuild with a carport on the front to cover the mini and a separate shed is needed for the bikes and garden stuff. All In good time though, car first.

Deep pockets is the key, lol. The clubman inner wings are the real key to a good clubman front end, it’s so obvious when someone puts a clubby front on a round nose. Hence my efforts to create my own. When I made this car in 2007, a round nose was so much cheaper and clubby NOS panels were a bit hard to get hold of and it was going to be a track car so I didn’t care. Now I regret cutting that all off.

Thats my plan to change the inner wings too

@@JasonKane77 be prepared to spend £600 for them. Theres no pattern panels. Only one side is available in the front 20” now. If you go forward through some of my videos, I made the rear section of the clubman inner wings myself and I plan to make the rest too.

@@NickThornhill ill be watching mate, im just halfway through a sidewalk rebuild the now - new back panel, full boot floor, new floor panel and next the front end (inner/outer wings front panel and scuttle) Not bothered about the cost of it all as its going to be a right solid car at the end of it

Will do. I definitely need to get some new ones. The 50 year old Gilbows are dead and the others just can’t hack cutting through 0.8mm steel, I got them for my aluminium dash many moons ago.

We’ve all got our processes. Maybe my material usage wasn’t the most logical but I’m happy with how it turned out.

Yeh I hear you, I could have done that, nothing is wasted though. The piece of metal I started with was already a piece of scrap from someone else’s project. I’ve kept all the offcuts and as with most things, it will get used eventually.

Can’t beat a good stare 😂😂 my process involves a lot of mental visualisation before I embark on anything physical.

Yeh I hear you but I haven’t really got any metal forming tools and my previous attempts have all been a nightmare. Several separate pieces welded together makes it easier to make the shapes I want and more welding isn’t so bad. The custom clubman inner wings on the front look good and were done the same way.

No. Preferably in a battery box behind the drivers or passengers seat. It’s a fibreglass boot floor from arc angels but I’ve got a bit happy with the angle grinder in the last rebuild 20 years ago so I’ve got to learn, move on and adapt what I have to make it all fit.

Yes you can. My first one was 1 tooth regarded so I had to re-align the timing marks. With this rebuild the cam had obviously been not turning so I had to start again. Theoretically as long as you align the holes, it should be ok. Obviously turn it over by hand a few times to make sure nothing hits anything.

@@NickThornhill ok great and In your opinion do you time from TDC or middle ?

@c-wild114 on the front of the engine, near the flywheel, there is another alignment point. I put a bit of old brake pipe in it to get the crank in the right place. I think you see a snippet of it in the part 1 video.

@@NickThornhill sorry I was in the format that you are rebuilding the engine

@c-wild114 Aahh no just the cylinder head after the cam pulley came undone and the keyway failed. The engine stopped suddenly. Lol. 3 new valves and it was good to go. Pistons had indents but nothing that stopped it running. Obviously I had to re-time it but a top end rebuild was as far as I went.

Absolutely. Couldn’t have done this without them.

Interesting tip, I’ve just heard about this from someone else. Nice to hear it from 2 sources. I’ll definitely give it a try, got plenty of copper pipe in the garage.

@@NickThornhill forgot to say to wrap some electrical tape around the part you hold or you'll get a shock

@@kingrolovtec I might use a magnet to hold it in that case.

You might find the welder doesn't like the magnet, mine doesn't don't know why.

@kingrolovtec I’ll do some test pieces. To be fair I’m not sure my welder really likes welding 😂😂

lol. 16 new heads and 14 new handles. Incidentally that’s what I call my bike 😂😂 4 frames and 6 wheelsets later amongst other things.

Thanks. Yes was a great step towards completion.

Cheers Nigel 👌

This is still the old subframe. I’m using it as a template to make sure all the holes fit properly.

Yes. Retropower cars. In there weekly roundups, Nathaniel in the metal workshop talk you through what they’ve been up to and sometimes goes off on a tangent to explain how they do something with shaping metal. I’ve watched nearly 50 episodes now. Started at episode 146 I think, plus the Gordon Murray mk1 escort build series.

@@NickThornhill ta mate

If you’re looking for a good old binge session. Start at episode 170 or thereabouts.

@@NickThornhill I'll give it a look. Ta

Aren’t they just. Like a visit there takes 2 weeks 😂😂

Honestly he loves it.

Cheers. Yeh made some progress now. Got to love summer holidays.

Cheers. Yeh life just has its ways of adding delays

Maybe not, I was told it’s possible to do without removing them on a diesel but I didn’t see how those long bolts were going to come out without taking them out. Also I was advised that since I was replacing the pump, that the condenser would be a good thing to change while I was there to make sure all physical parts were new and unlikely to cause further issues

This was 3 hours start to finish taking time to record all the video stuff too.

Obviously had to go out afterwards and get a wheel speed sensor but that’s a 2 minute fit.

Whats the hourly rate charged by independents ( say in an mid sized rural town )

@joegarrihy6881 honestly I don’t know, I’ve been doing my own car maintenance since I passed my test in 1998. I obviously have friends in the motor trade but we have a reciprocal agreement, they ask me about classic cars and wiring stuff, I ask them about modern stuff. I would have thought the hourly rate would easily be £80 per hour but sometimes they’ll do certain Jobs at a fixed price. Can’t hurt to ask your local garage. Worst they’ll say is to go away. Or words to that effect.

Thanks. I’ve got a few more general maintenance videos planned on the mondeo. Got the mini to finish first though.

How long did the job take you

@DrewJack-gx2wv working blind having never done the job before, and having all the parts ready, 1 day. Started early, finished late.

@@NickThornhill you made it look like 2 hour job ? But only because you used the drive on stands

@DrewJack-gx2wv knowing now what I’m doing, yes probably 2-3 hours next time, although I’m seriously hoping I don’t need to do this again having replaced everything.

I believe they were actually called the countryman but most refer to them as a woody estate. Beautiful things. Morris minors also had the same thing with wood on the outside so it was kind of a leftover from them that carried on with the mini.

@@NickThornhill yep. Faded memory of about 40 years ago.

@yogibear2k220 when was the last time you went for a drive in one?? Even after 10 years of mine being off the road, and the last 5 of this rebuild project, I’m excited to get back in it. Nothing quite compares with that direct mechanical feel.

@@NickThornhill lol about 40 years ago!

lol indeed they do, there’s lots of folk that are really hot on the heels of ringers but they fail to realise it was seen as a legitimate thing back in the day. Lol. It’s cropped up a couple of times with the washer bottle mount and fuel pipe mountings, etc. but it was a clubman and the numbers in the scuttle matched my v5 perfectly. I knew the last owner and he had it from 1998 to 2002 so it’s likely that at some point in the early to mid 90’s it had a whole new genuine rover floor section. Doesn’t matter, if the DVLA come knocking I’ve got enough proof.

I do and I don’t. Those 3 panels at the bottom were £60 delivered, the equivalent heritage part is £260.

@NickThornhill yeaa I understand that, when I did the heritage lower panel on mine I cut it out and fully welded it back on in less than a day, and flat sanded the joints

@harvey1166 if this all goes wrong, I’ll have to find the money for it but I’d rather spend the extra £60 on top and get the full boot aperture rather than the lower edge.

Aahh I didn’t realise this was visible. Was my son’s video footage from his last go. He likes to watch it back to asses his performance 😂😂 it’s like real world F1 23 replay for him.

Sadly that can happen. Wish I could offer more help. Maybe a dremel to cut through the other bearing race? Might work to relieve some tension. But it could be dead. It may be the time to hop in a friends car or on a bus and find someone with some more hardcore press tools or bearing race pullers or at worse a breakers yard for a new hub.

@@NickThornhill Wel it is done, making things hot do work. The bearing has did turning in the stub eating itselfs in the metal and get stuck, dangerous. I thought breaks did not get free al that time, but mot did say bearing defect. pressing it out needs quite some strength.

That’s a good shout. Thanks.

That’s a good idea, I was also looking at other stuff. However I’ve done some measuring and may have found the problem, I’ll verify my theory today hopefully.