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Fantastic video! Thank you so much for taking the time to do the experiments. I was wondering what to do kydex with and your video was a fantastic help. I just tried the PVC glue for the first time and it worked great. Thank you again!

Ive got a ruger american in 300 blackout that refuses to feed properly every round nose dives or cants up into the chamber edge. Both with the stock 10 round ar mag and a 300 blackout magpul pmag that I have. Neither one feeds properly in the gun. I can get it to properly chamber a round maybe 1 in 10 times.

Love this video! love the honesty and transparency and down to earth view. I have all Glocks - 17,19 and 43x. My last buy was 43x mos with holosun 507k2x2. not very happy with that setup. looking to get a dagger and try it out

Zep the best way to do your rv

Thanks for turning the comments section back on. : ) I just got a 36m as my first suppressor a week ago. My son and I love it. I'm not thrilled with the fact that they supply their proprietary ASR mount instead of direct thread, but other than that, it's a great system.

Thanks for making this vid. I recommend using a "Comparitor" gauge addition to your measurements. Keeps a COL regardless of tip. Hornady has a set. Real "accurizing" occurs there.

On your video about the Omega 36m suppressor, you ask for people to leave comments, but you have turned comments off for that video.

This wont last long. You need 3m medium cut polish and a wool pad

Which model TDB is this?

Wow this is insane. I’m definitely gonna try to do all of these Thanks

I just happen to have a project coming up soon and I was wondering what to try. Thanks a lot. I'll try the pvc glue.

You should give all the adhesives a 24 hr curing time. Even Cynocrialates (instant glue) need 24 hrs for a full curing time.

i hate this video! i came to youtube to find a simple design to make one swinger. i found this, now im going to have to be making several of these too!!

Maguires marine RV, one step or polish Cleaner 💪

Great video

The worst video ever!

it is perfect in everyway.

Thanks for the vid! Getting into it for my customs.

For those gals saying wet is a waste of time and that you don't need shiny brass then why do you even dry tumble? Why not just go from the dirt to the reloading bench? Pretty stupid to call this gentleman out how he chooses to process his brass when you guys are guilty of doing it yourselves. You are wasting time and products, plus you are going through too many steps when you don't just take your spent brass out of the dirt and reload it immediately. I reload range brass right there and then on our range...no cleaning, no nothing. I do, however, prefer clean and shiny brass because it makes it easier to inspect for potential issues and means less gunk in my firearms.

For those gals saying wet is a waste of time and that you don't need shiny brass then why do you even dry tumble? Why not just go from the dirt to the reloading bench? Pretty stupid to call this gentleman out how he chooses to process his brass when you guys are guilty of doing it yourselves. You are wasting time and products, plus you are going through too many steps when you don't just take your spent brass out of the dirt and reload it immediately. I reload range brass right there and then on our range...no cleaning, no nothing. I do, however, prefer clean and shiny brass because it makes it easier to inspect for potential issues and means less gunk in my firearms.

Are you sure you know how to use a RED DOT? LMAooooo

This doesn’t remove the oxidation. It just covers it. Depending on how deep the oxidation is you need to either buff it with a compound or if it’s really bad wet sand it and then buff it.

Great video! Thanks!

I would buy 300 blackout mags but I can’t find any 40 round ones

Thats without any buffing?

Yawn…..blah, blah, blah….geez.

You making the mistake of trying to compare "shiny" to "clean". Clean brass in no way has to be shiny to properly function, it is a cosmetic appeal only. Also you mentioned using corncob as media, well that is a polishing media not a cleaning media. I've tumbled +200krds brass for 20+ yrs in walnut with a cap of Dillon polish and it's clean every time. If you want to shine it up use corncob with NuFinish car wax added. Cleaning brass is not complicated or hard by any means. Using a wet tumbler (I have a BigShot from CreedMoor) works but it is more work, more steps, more products and more money. You just have decide if how shiny it ends up is important to you because it's 100% not going to affect it's perform in any way.

When your making your holster do you need to tape the whole gun or does it just not stick ? Sorry if a stupid question lmao 🤣

good for you passing along what you've learned over the years. I have the same basic set up only for larger quantities of brass. The grandkids have some hungry AR's that are kept well supplied. Great results can be had by separating the cleaning and polishing steps. The dish soaps (Dawn, Prell, etc.) all produce an alkaline solution which will effectively neutralize the citric acid in the polishing solution. I use a 5 gallon construction mixer equipped with 5 gallon pails with wide screw-on lids. Steel pins are used as a tumbling medium for both steps. The first step cleans the dirt, grime, and residues. Secondly the well rinsed cases are tumbled with the steel pins in a citric acid solution with pH 3-4.5. Same basic equipment separates the pins from the brass etc. Some rifle cases are first decapped leaving cleaned primer pockets. Oven drying @ < 200 F until dry.

Thanks for the video. Since you obviously are well versed with the 300blk, I have a couple of questions hopefully you may be able to help me with. Sorry in advance for the long comment, but I wanted to be thorough with my question. I’m a retired LEO who was also an armorer, instructor and swat/SRT team member and I continue to work with firearms today. But the 300blk has been giving me fits. I started tinkering with the platform a little over a year ago, with the intention of running a suppressed, short(er) barrel gun with subsonic rounds for deer hunting that wouldn’t clear a field on the first shot so that more does could be harvested at one time to help keep numbers in check. I found that a suppressed 5.56 is still a little loud, even though both rounds are more than capable of putting meat on the ground. That’s when I started running into cycling issues. I recently started tinkering again because it was bothering me that I couldn’t get it figured out. I had seen a couple of videos on modifying magazines, but I just ordered a couple of 300blk specific mags to try so hopefully that will help with some of the feeding issues. I started by running a carbine length gas system (.750) on a 10.5” barrel gun with a Liberty Mystic X suppressor with a Bootleg adjustable BCG and Winchester Super Suppressed 200 grain ammo. I didn’t want to drill out gas ports unless absolutely necessary, so I started with buffer weights (3, 3.86 and 4.58 h2), springs (sprinco white (regular) and yellow (reduced) power). The gun will run with the 3.86 and 4.58 weights and white spring, but will not lock back on the last shot. That’s where I stopped because I ran out of time. Next, I want to run the lower weight buffer with the yellow spring to see if it helps with the lock back issue. I’ve also ordered a reduced weight BCG in case I need to go that route. I even read somewhere that a Magpul BAD lever could even have an effect, so I took it off while testing. Any thoughts or advice that I haven’t thought about that I could try if these other options don’t work? Your input would be greatly appreciated. Oh, and I’ve tried this with pmags, usgi mags, hexmags and duramags and still run into lockback issues.

Amazing design. I built one today for my private range. Works amazing. I’m planning on building 3 more. Great video!!

It’s not so much about quick install as it is return to zero and mitigating poi shift.

I think the reason people like QD mounts is because you can move it around on multiple guns and when it’s not on the gun you still have a nice muzzle device on the gun. For instance I have a 5.56 gun and a 9mm gun and I can swap my 36M between them whenever I want and when the can isn’t on it still has a nice muzzle device.

Agree completely, been reloading for over 50 years. I also used dry media with the dust, insufficient cleaning and no carbon removal. Saw a lot of wet tumbling but it seemed like a big mess and hassle. I couldn't have been more wrong. A couple years ago I found a Frankford Arsenal small tumbler for 50 bucks at a small show, bought it for 35 new in the box. If I was going to do it, it had to be then. Always looking to pinch a penny I found a big bag of powdered citric acid on Amazon was 1/4 the price of Lemi-Shine and I only use a 45acp case full per load so after 2 years I still have an almost full bag left and IMHO the citric acid works better and doesn't water spot. I also use a small squirt of Dawn and Southern Shine media. The Southern Shine doesn't get stuck in flash holes, bridge in necks and being pointy actually polishes the cases and removes all the baked on carbon. I always decap my rounds, no other way to remove the carbon from the primer pockets not to mention water will enter and sit behind the spent primer and make draining and drying the cases a big mess and hassle. I also bought a sifter that fits in a 5gal bucket, I fill the bucket and sifter to overflowing with running water and as it fills up I just stir The cases around and all the media falls into the water filled bucket. I remove the strainer and use a big nail pickup magnet, one of the ones that can release the magnetic hold (cheap at Harbor freight) and dunk it right in the bucket, it picks up all the media and put it right back into the cleaning drum and yes, I do store my media wet. With the citric acid in the water it never never goes sour and smells great even after 3 months. The drained brass goes on a cookie sheet and goes into my oven at 170* for 15-20 minutes, I then remove it and let it cool for another 5 and store the brass away. I also have an old food dehydrator that works also, just takes more time. Took me longer to tap this out that to clean a batch, minus the tumbling time of course. The brass comes out polished with the Southern Shine looking better than new and the process is super easy. Advise: Always decap, I use a Lee Universal Decap Die. A couple of bucks and it works on every caliber. I even bring home loads of pickup range brass, any caliber, decap and wet tumble. Sort and put in vacuum seal bags to sell at shows or give to friends, always comments on the great looking brass.

The reason for quick mounts is mainly so the can doesn’t come loose while shooting but I’ve gone direct thread and leave a flash hider on the can because there’s no option on my old 308 suppressor. For pistol and 22 you want removable SS baffles for cleaning because they get caked and SS baffles can be sonic cleaned or wet tumbled with pins. The reason for using a piston adapter on pistols with tilting barrels is so the can doesn’t rip the threads off the barrel as well as function. My first can was a 22 because they are the most quiet , fun, and also light on pistols then pistol cans that also work great with 300blk subs, PCC guns, levers , single shots and others. Being able the Clean easily is Key!

Wait times are waaaaaaay down bro, got one in February in 2 weeks.....Lately I've been hearing under a week...

Add a small amount of Meguire's Wax & Shine with the Lemishine. Comes out clean and resists discoloration on sitting until used.

Great video, next time please don’t keep banging your targets with your tape measure and pvc.

Dude! You are a born teacher. One of the best functional explanations, scratch that.. The best explanation on the internet! Cheers ! :)

Do you know if the trs-26 would work with the magnifier?

Give u something to try thats worked best for me is the 4.2 gr but the oal 1.10 found that to be the best grouping in both my canik tp9 elite sc and my ar 9 with 16in barrel

I’m glad you have a standard for pistol and you’ve incorporated some movement in your course

With the powder shortage I tried Tightgroup because that is what I could find at the time in my area and never looked back. Very happy with it. I've loaded thousands of Berry's bullet and Extreme bullets with great success. Along with a lot of regular FMJ bullets.

It used to be about 25fps per inch of barrel length in supersonic 30 cal or more , but with todays powders and loads I regularly see only 13-15 fps difference in FPS per inchof barrel. Sometimes hardly any difference at all in certain combos. Its crazy how it varies or sometimes doesn't at all. I think its very powder/bullet sensitive like you said the newer slippery bullets can add a lot right from the start.

Nice Job , It liked that load for accuracy. I bet you could sneak down your charge just a couple levels and find another accuracy node as well. I just got some Berry's 220 gr and loading some with CFE BLK. How were your results with that combo? I am looking forward to loading up some 8.6Blk I just got some factory 8.6BLK brass and Barnes .338 -TSX 210's in solid copper for hunting after I get some range data. I'm waiting on some .338 -300Gr to make some subs as well. I'm a New Subscriber for you.

Man this was great information! I'll probably go this route for my next few holsters.

I have been reloading for many years, I am OCD as well. i would wet tumble with dawn and a little lemi shine, then walnut with nu-finish wax, great idea with the wash and wax car cleaner, I will try it out.. I use a Thumler's tumbler. mainly for the amount it can do in 1 process 10 pounds at a time. I have the regular rock tumbler version as when i started they did not make the brass cleaning version yet. Still works great.

I only use dedicated 300 blackout magazines and still having feeding issues.

Ima use 150 Grain

Needed this bud just looking into one on my fiancé phone