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Thank you !

Thankyou!

This is good thinking, and worth pointing out that I did actually do this. While the rails did have some chamfer to the edges, I did come back with a file and increase it to make it easier to re-engage. I would highly recommend this to anyone else as well.

Thank you!

That is awesome!

That could work, and I've thought about that as a solution, however, I do think there is one major flaw in that idea. In order for the rails not to leave the guide blocks still, you have to move the mitre gauge closer to the middle of the sled. If you leave the mitre at the front edge of the sled, you have the same problem, you have to leave the first guide blocks at the front to get through the cut because you have to go beyond the table saw blade exit. You would solve that by making the sled MUCH longer and moving the gauge further up the table (to a point it's past the blade without it being off the blocks), that however means when you draw the sled back, you have this massive amount of wasted sled that sticks out. I've modelled this in Sketchup and it honestly would work, but would have a huge footprint.

In AUD: About $80.00 in pine panels. If you did this in MDF I wager it could be much less, around $40 instead. Monitor was $50.00 on ebay. Buttons and joystick kit was $75.00 The vinyl wrap was about $40.00 for both large sheets. Other misc stickers and decals I found, around another $40 odd dollars So probably about $250 AUD total, not including obviously any other hardware that drives the device, such as a PC, Raspberry Pi etc etc. I used an old Intel NUC, the model of which I believe can be still found on ebay for around $50.00. So all in It's possible for under $300. Opt for say MDF instead of pine, and maybe paint instead of vinyl and you probably can get away with way less than $300.

When you consider just how many different types of games, platforms, form factors etc are possible, any custom arcade build is going to be an exercise in compromise. I went with a 4:3 monitor (which isn't widescreen) purely because the types of games I want to play were designed in that aspect ratio, and yes, if I were to play certain other games, those would probably suffer due to the screen. Now of course if you prefer certain games, classic retro arcade like the examples you provide, then I agree, mounting a widescreen monitor vertical would be a better choice, however that would be, as you correctly pointed out, a different cabinet. But hey, means maybe another cabinet? Can't be a bad thing can it? :)

Great question. I don't think I'd change much in the overall design, I think I got the dimensions and proportions pretty good for this configuration. The only tiny things I would change is the radius of the round over on the sides, it's just a tiny bit too tight and it made putting on the T-Moulding a challenge, but really that's a tiny thing. Who knows, I might make a revision that's the whole cabinet instead. That would be fun I think!

@@barberspaddockwoodworking it's on my bucket list of things to build. I think you got the sizing right. Curious to see how much it would cost for Mortal Kombat / Street Fighter vinyl prints

They definitely %100 exist if you look at places like Etsy, but they are $$$. I nearly did something like that, but then the cost of purchase and printing might have been as much as the entire project here. But if I was making one for my house, I would totally go down that path.

Going down that rabbit whole is quite the process, and you could do an entire video on that topic alone, which I don't feel I'm 100% the qualified person to speak on....however, I'm more than happy to convoy what I did here. The hardware here is not complex. It's simply an old Intel NUC PC (google Intel NUC), running Windows 7. That's it. Monitor is connected via VGA and the control panel, plus into it using standard USB connectors. Windows detects them as simple USB gaming controllers. So basically what we have is a standard PC running in the cabinet. That's it, nothing fancy. Now I know there are all sorts of wonderful Raspberry Pi solutions etc, but I kept this simple.

Completely agree with the rabbit hole comment - I’m going to go down the raspberry pi path - it’s not as scary as you think it might be…

Ha thanks mate, will have to put that on the list.

Now you're talking!

I'm very very tempted to make a full sized cabinet one of these days, but will need to find the room first!

Same here!

Thank you!

Hi bro from Argentina. Check out the first pinned comment and the description for a link to some PDF drawings. If you're interested in my Google Sketchup file shoot me an email, or hit me up on insta! Thanks for your support!

I think that lightburn supports pretty much any camera, so I think if you have an enclosure you could connect one up easy enough.

I hear, you. The good news is they keep coming down in price so they are becoming more and more affordable. It depends on what you want to achieve with the laser, but you can do the exact same workshop projects using a 20w, like the Algo Delta I had previously, which is selling for less than $800 (AUD) and even cheaper when on sale, and those are excellent workshop lasers IMO.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking yea a must say I have seen they seem be coming down. My main aim for them really is engraving and cutting specific things (beard combs maybe few templates) no one in my area here in Scotland that I can find offer's the laser personalised service so I feel could capitalise on that market but it's the initial outlay that needs convincing/justifying (the wife mainly) if your ever offered another or an upgrade send one Scotland bound 😁🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿👍

🤣

Next project was all over my insta so if you're not there! But it has a childhood geek element to it and it should be out by the end of the week!

OH BOY! If you find out the secret to this question, you'll be my hero. At the moment, all my formply comes from Bunnings, it's the only local place that stocks it. I know there are some other online places to get it, but I can't get it shipped to country VIC/NSW without it costing as much as the plywood in the first place. If you crack this puzzle, you MUST let me know because god knows I go through alot of formply.

It's all smoke and mirrors Eric, you should see it right now. HA! But thanks for the compliment.

Excellent question. The reality is, there is no reason why you couldn't do any of the workshop projects I've done on a CNC instead of a laser. Hell any of the laser files I've provided for previous projects will work in CNC software as also, if you're inclined to do that instead. I do actually own a small CNC (very basic), but even if I did have a bigger/better one (it is on my maybe list), it would still be faster to make these on the laser IMO. For small, let's say delicate items or small parts (example the dust shroud) etc a router bit will be just too big to get the job done. My original prototypes for the magnetic coupler were actually done on a CNC, but it took 4 or 5 times as long to produce those as it does on my laser and I couldn't get it as clean.

Hit me up on email, and I can send you the laser files.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking I would like to, but I don’t have your email address.

anthony @ barberspaddockwoodworking . com

This is good advice and probably something I should have mentioned, that on the second attempt, I 'shouldered' out the counter sinks (if that's the term to use) so they are flat rather than tapered, that's why they are so deep. This is likely part of why I struggled the first time, but was able to get it sorted the second.

It's always going to be a compromise isn't it. Ideally yes, if I could remove the wing I would, but then the rails for the fence would be in the way and I cannot move or cut them without severely reducing the capacity of the saw (or weakening the whole saw), defeating the purpose. It's probably for this reason, as you say, why people keep the wing on. I'm not saying it's a perfect solution, but all things considered, I've increased my cross-cutting capacity with little to no real issues. I may, one day revisit this and see if there is a way to engineer something that can go in-between the left wing and the main body, but honestly, by that time, I'll probably be shopping for a new saw, and I'm sure some sort of sliding mechanism will be on the cards then as well. Appreciate the constructive comment.

I had no idea!

So from the back of the side pocket, to the edge of the rail? About 25mm. You're welcome to my Google Sketchup file if you want the complete file for the table. Just hit me up in an email.

It really was touch and go there. I probably need to stock up.

Correct, what you see is all off the shelf 'box store' bought lumber. The framing timber I used is what is called in my big box store as 'pine shorts', which as the name suggests is just short pieces of '2x4' (or in AUS that's 35mm x 75mm). These are very dry, and generally straight since they are quite short and clean up really nice when planned/sanded. The top is made of FromPly, this is a special type of plywood with a hard resin surface which is great for workbench tops etc. Glue won't stick to it, and it's resistant to marking or denting. So far it's holding up great.