Відео

I've been working on one, so maybe/hopefully soon.

The current version of the PBD-40 was released 8 years ago. It's been out on the market for EONs, so to be frank, I don't know what you mean when you comment 'no one has ever seen this product'. Personally, I bought mine off Amazon, at least 2 years ago, when it went on sale. And periodically you see spikes in purchases during Amazon sales (I bought mine when it was 50% off). The reviews are positive, because it's a good, decent little drill press. I don't know what else to tell you here, no conspiracy, no paid advertisement.

It's a right of passage for any Aussie maker, you have to own some Craft Right clamps.

Are you able to recommend where you purchased the glue, rubber and the fabric? Also, The strips that you inserted into the Dado slot, did you glue them with the fabric? - thanks for the advice in advance!

For the glue, I'm going to assume you mean the cement that holds the rubber to the rail. That's just contact cement, I can't remember the brand, but it's one designed for rubber/wood various surfaces. It's just from my local big box store, so just look out for contact cement. As for recommendations on the rubber, I can't really make them. Recommendations are based on experience, and I only have this one build to go off. The ebay listing I bought this from has long gone, so to be honest, that's the only thing I recommend is checking out eBay or Amazon for pool table rubber. Same goes for felt, I just bought what I thought was cost effective and for me at least it worked out. Again the listing is long gone, but a quick search for pool table felt on eBay/Amazon has tons of options.

I have no idea sorry, but there is no reason you can't adapt most things. It's just a monitor, you could use a TV or convert the inputs to work with any manner of device I would predict.

Sorry, which part are you referring? The bracket? I stiffened it up on the top and the bottom, if that's what you mean?

If you download the file from the website, it should include two extra files, one that is listed as 'Arcade Machine Side.dxf' and 'Arcade Cabinet - Buttons.dxf' which are the files used to cut out on the laser as templates. If you wish to print these instead, you can open .DXF with most popular image editing programs. I specifically use GIMP which works fine. Just be mindful when printing, especially for scale to take into consideration borders and your printer.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking i only see a skp file

@xALFx13 try downloading again I've updated the zip file.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking nope when i unzip it only the skp file is in there. unless you mean for me to open it in sketch up app?

@@xALFx13 send me an email and I'll send them to you

Assuming you mean the table felt? The original ebay listing I used isn't up anymore, but if you search up pool table felt on Amazon or eBay you'll find tons of options.

In the back. Lots of options, you can use some basic speakers, or in this case, a bluetooth soundbar works really well.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking you didnt show it on the video..

No I didn't show any hardware at all and that was deliberate and mentioned in the video. The focus of the build is the cabinet itself, and I leave it to people to work out what kind of hardware they might want to use in this type of application.

I don't have plans, but if you hit me up in an email, I'd be happy to send you my Sketchup files.

The reason I've not listed it, is because I'm still unsure if this is any good, or if I just was very bad at installing it, but here you go: www.ebay.com.au/itm/261328589223

Send me an email and I can send you my Sketchup file.

SBR20's are what you want here: www.ebay.com.au/itm/234475607118?var=534050596731

@barberspaddockwoodworking thank you

Never occurred to me to remove it at the time, but I guess makes sense retrospectively. Removing the housing does make it a more complicated monitor installation, and the name of the game for this build was simple, or at least as simple as possible. I know it's not 'authentic' in many respects, but it works enough for this application.

Raspberry Pi's are a very good choice for this application. If I didn't have the existing hardware lying around I'd have gone that path too.

If you're an 'arcade purist' you do you, play what you want to play, this is just one of a thousand examples of what you could do. We could argue (and probably respectfully disagree) about "should" vs "traditional" vs "modern" but I leave that up to you. Have to remember that this is a gift, the recipient is a Mario fan, and this is what appeals to them. It has MAME they'll be able to do that as well, but this was about a theme that they'd love.

That was considered, but there are issues and challenges with that, that don't make it any different to putting the sled on the blocks instead of the rails (at least for my case). 1.) The main issue is that for the blocks to be stationary, we will have the exact same issue of the rails needing to leave the blocks once it's passing the saw blade (if you won't want a huge bit of rail sticking back behind the saw). If you don't want that to happen, you have to have the rails way longer than the sled impeding behind the table saw which is something I didn't want to do. 2.) I don't have infinite room at the back of the saw, so if instead you decided 'let's make the rails longer, extending further out the back of the sled so when you pull it back you a have more capacity' then I can't do that, there's not enough room/clearance. 3.) If you don't want any rail sticking out in front of the saw, when it's in its normal position, the rails need to stick way out behind the saw to compensate for the length that needs to pass the blade without leaving any guide blocks. If you're going to do that, you might as well have long rails attached to the base that extend far back behind the saw, and let the slide go along it. These rails weigh a lot, so it does not make sense to have that much weight trying to either re-engage the guide blocks (which won't increase capacity) unless you plan on having a huge part of rail sticking out the back of the table (which I didn't want). To have the rails move, and not the guide blocks, you need to engineer a better base, one much larger, much longer that will take the weight of the rails (which are very heavy), much stronger, so they don't twist, etc. You'd have to really engineer a solid base (probably metal) to support the weight of the rails moving backwards and forwards without flexing. So if it's about capacity, the way to do that IMO is to make the rail really long past the back of the saw, not just putting the rails on the sled instead. I can't find any examples of people putting the rails as the moving component, probably because of some of the reasons I highlighted, but I'm keen to always be proven wrong. If I do a second 'mark 2' version, this is something I will explore again.

@barberspaddockwoodworking Another idea is to have 2 positions on the sliding table one at the back and another at the front, so you can have fence either behind the work piece or Infront

@eddie1330 That's something I think will work, I've not tried it yet, but there is no reason it wouldn't work that way as well.

@@HadenFleming-y9e 1200mm x 2000mm. Or about 8ft by 4ft.

If you're located in Australia, Bunnings is the main source, it's common there. Outside of AUS, I know it's possible to find in Europe, but in the US I think it's quite rare, unfortunately. I believe there is an alternative-laminated version that uses an MDF core that's sold there, but I've never used it, so I can't comment on its suitability sorry.

Thanks for sharing that!!! Love yr shop! Love videos! Side note. As a consumer of yr videos and woodworker I feel that you don’t need to explain why u use yr domino or any tool really. There will always be individuals who are jealous or haters

Theoretically yes, I've seen other designs that accommodate that idea, but it's not something I've tried before. I see no reason why it couldn't be done, but it would be a completely different build tho, so I'm uncertain what you can take from this design for something like that. Boxes PY have one that you might like to look at: boxes.hackerspace-bamberg.de/Arcade?language=en

I only have the laser files, which could be exported to STL, but you won't have any dimension to them, they'll be on a 2D plane. If you email me, I'm certain we can organise something that will allow you to then model a 3D model in CAD.

@@barberspaddockwoodworking "drspainjourney" is correct. This is -by far- the best overhead dust collector design I've seen. Loved how you kept working it! I to am interested in working off an STL file of this (no laser cutter here either). Could you export them and share with me?

It's unfortunately not possible. The front fence rail, and back fence rail would have to be cut to accommodate it, and that's not something easily achieved. It would impact rip cutting capacity/capabilities thus sort of negating some of the benefit.

@barberspaddockwoodworking Cutting metal is not a difficult task, long accomplished by many wood workers. Pick a technique and go. Pushing the sliding table closer to the middle gives you greater control, and the sliding table itself is approximately the same size as the 10x27 inch cast iron wing, so you aren't gaining or losing any rip capacity if you remove it. Just remove the slider fence. Anyways, the capacity for a rip cut is primarily on the right side of the blade not the left.

Given that this was largely an experiment and certainly an unknown for me, I didn't want to cut up the fence just to find out it wouldn't work, I'm not that brave yet. There is always going to be a lot of 'ideally' situations, but this is what I adapted that had little/no risk and I learnt a lot about it that I think could be adapted for a future version (I need to move the table). I don't advocate 'this is the way to do it for everyone', this is just what I did.

Appreciate that!

Very very aware of the why/what/how it was very stupid and something I'll never do again.

You can find the hole sizing plans on my website. Link in description, completely free.

It's nothing more than an old Intel NUC PC running Windows 7 OS that I had laying around. Use what ever device/PC/Raspberry etc that works for you, doesn't need to be complicated.

Great question. I have a 2.5HP dust collector, and if I tried using it for this application (which I could), it would SUCK (and not in the good way). There is a reason why people use shop vacs still especially for sanding etc because of differences between how these dust collector types work and what they are ideal for in each application. Shop vacs are low volume, high velocity. They're good for small dust from small tools, like sanders etc (fine dust basically). Dust collectors are the opposite, they're high volume low pressure devices, suited for large particles and large volumes, for tools like table saws, planers, etc you get the idea. They perform very different functions.

@ thank you for the quick reply. I guess I got thrown off by the fact that you hooked the vacuum up to your table saw. So you primarily use this extension arm as a way to make using the vacuum more convenient. But you still use the dust collection system when operating your large machines?

@ericmeyn4380 correct.

Thanks! Merry Christmas to you too!

Same to you Chris!

Ha, yes, had to slow down a bit the last few months, but hopefully will be able to get back in the swing of things in the next few months. :)

Thank you! Merry Christmas to you too!

Thank you so much! It means a lot to hear that!

Also- I kinda skipped through the video (I’m busy.) what is running it? A raspberry pi?

Where to start. Sherwood and I, have a sort of love hate relationship. To be clear, I don't have a specific 'affinity' to the brand, and I'm certainly not sponsored, but I've accumulated quite a bit of kit that's Sherwood (tablesaw, bandsaw, jointer, thicknesser, dust collector) over the last few years, so I feel like I can give you a reasonable answer. To qualify, there are two major reasons why I have so much Sherwood at the moment: 1.) Price. For the price you pay, you usually get a lot of tool. My table saw was $1,700 AUD on special when I bought it, which is/was crazy cheap for the specs (12" blade, dado cable, part cabinet, part contractor type saw). Thicknesser, bandsaw, all similar stories, I just couldn't pass up the cost vs other brands. 2.) Reason number 2, and probably the biggest, was 'freight cost'. The store I bought these from, Timbecon, is the only one that charges reasonable tailgate shipping. I live in the country and the cost to get large tool shipments here is astronomical. One quote for shipping from another tool merchant for a drum sander was over $600 AUD. Alot of Sherwood products are photo copies of other off the shelf OEM products (especially the thicknesser, dust collector, jointer). You can find almost identical ones under other brands (like the carbatec ones). For those, I say, it's fine, get which ever one is cheapest. But the tablesaw, that's not a clone, or at least it's not a clone of another brand that's sold here in AUS (and I've not found the equivalent in another brand ever). The tablesaw I had so many headaches with. Part of it was my inexperience with this type of tool (I graduated to this from a Ryobi jobsite 'bucket' tablesaw), and part of it was the absolutely horrendous QA that my table saw had. I had issues with the power (they wired it upside down from the factory so it blew multiple times before I get a 3rd party to fix it), the instruction manual is like a photo copy of a photo copy, and then translated by my uncle into something resembling English so is next to useless. The fence is RUBBISH, it took days to get that into proper alignment so it was useable, and even now, I have challenges to getting the blade parallel sometimes. Dust collection at the cabinet level is non existent, all the cabinet does is give a place for the dust to fall down into. There is nothing covering the saw internals, so often you're cleaning up all the trunians that get covered in sawdust. The throat plates are a joke and afterthought, you would never use them. Now they might have fixed some of this up in the more recent models, especially since mine is now retired, but I know enough people with the current models that have had similar experiences who are much better woodworkers than me, that I trust that some of this isn't addressed yet. Granted after 2 years of using it, I've now learnt how to deal with it's nuances, and I now understand enough that I'm able to get everything I need from it. Depending on where you are on your woodworking journey, that could be a challenge you're willing to take on, especially if you have some experience with similar tools, or not. Basically it's very very affordable, and that affordability comes at a price when it comes to setup and use. If you know your tools and have some experience in that area, it can be a good bargain. Otherwise, I'd probably say to give it a skip. Hope this helps!

@@barberspaddockwoodworking very thorough and exact response i was looking for, thank you. im a fellow aussie in SE suburbs VIC, so naturally found them through timbecon as well and yes price seems great bang for buck. Im past the tinkering with tools stage and will go for something more reputable that's more likely better out of the box. Still, I'm jealous of your setup. keep up the great work! I have a dedicated space on my horizon too :)