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Our favorite brand of plaster can be purchased here - bit.ly/venetian-plasters . You can also use AFIA10 for 10% off your order. Hope this helps.

Great question, but unfortunately, I don't have much experience with mixing pigments. We often buy our plaster pre-tinted.

​@@AlongForItAllthank you.

​@@AlongForItAllhow long does it take for the first coat to dry?

Depends on the room temp and humidity. If you have the time, I often leave the first coat to dry overnight. If you don't want to wait you can set up some fans and dry it off quicker. Unfortunately theres not an exact dry time I can give you.

​@@AlongForItAllthank you that makes sense. I'll learn by my mistakes, best way to learn is by doing

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm sorry to hear you think that. I am self taught and learning more each day. Feel free to find someone else if you don't like my content.

@@AlongForItAll And thats the point. You make yourself out to be an expert but you're just a beginner teaching everyone the bad ways you have taught yourself. Laughable that so many think you know what you're doing

You should make a video tutorial since you clearly have a lot of thoughts on this. Can’t wait to learn more.

For thin/shiny venetian plaster, you can use a normal paint primer. For thicker venetian plaster, you'll want to use a quartz primer as it add a little grit to the wall.

There is plaster that can be used in showers so it is possible. If you are interested in using plaster in areas that are constantly getting wet, check out the Wall2Floor system Firenzecolor offers.

You can either use a normal paint primer or a quartz primer depending on what plaster you are using.

Thanks for the feedback. I do this in my free time for free so it's not feasible to reshoot everything.

I haven't tested not priming the feather finish before applying marmario but my guess is that you'd probably be fine. You should test it before doing a large area though. If you don't tint the marmario KS then it's sort of a milky white color. If you wanted it more sandy color then you'd need to add some pigment into it since the base color is white.

Your base coat can be the same venetian plaster you use for your top coat. Usually you do 2 coats for thicker plasters and 3 coats for thinner. This gives it that nice movement look.

We get our plaster pre-tinted.

Yes, you can do your celling with Venetian plaster. You'll need to prep the celling the same way you do any other wall before applying. To make it look like marble, you'll want to use a fine Venetian plaster like Grassello Fino which you can find here - bit.ly/grassello-fino . To add veins to look like marble, you'll need to get multiple colors and use a brush or small trowel. This method is very artistic and can take some practice so my recommendation would be to practice on some boards first so you are comfortable and are happy with the look first.

We ordered them from amazon. You can find this specific gear here - amzn.to/3FOYFHh but make sure to look up the exact piece you need for your machine.

It's all personal preference. Some people like the taste others dont.

We bought our parts on amazon. You'll first need to look up the part numbers for your specific machine and then google where to buy it. Not all parts are available on amazon but it's handy when they are. We've had good luck ordering from www.repairclinic.com as well. They then to be a bit more expensive but sometimes it's all thats available. Good luck!

If you only do one coat, it won't have that layered movement look of venetian plaster. The second coat also gets compressed into the first coat, closing a lot of the pores of the first coat. This allows the finish to look really nice and clean vs rough. You could definitely apply a single coat if you like the look, but traditionally venetian plaster is a layered process.

Thanks! Glad it's been helpful

So, it can be for multiple reasons. If you are using a lighter venetian plaster, you are more likely to get visible black marks from the trowel. This could be from the quality of the trowel, or because you're pressing too hard. Typically what I recommend, although it's expensive, is to buy a trowel thats treated not to leave black marks on plaster. amzn.to/3QISXvX Our favorite is the x-trowel. This is the easiest way to avoid it, but if you have a decent trowel, you can practice. Hope this helps.

You are the absolute best!! So here’s another question- I’ve now “finished” my range hood and I’m pretty darn happy with the end result. I just figured I wouldn’t be able to burnish it because I went through like 10 trowels and all left black marks when practicing. I haven’t sealed it yet…is it too late for me to burnish now that’s it’s been dry for days??? I hate to add another layer because it took so long to get the look I even got now. I hope this makes sense?!

@elaynasimmons9859 unfortunately, it is too late to burnish. If you like the current look, you could also just move directly to put a sealer on it. I’d recommend getting something that can handle being washed and around food

It's just a cost thing. If it was cheap to have a service center fix it, then I would have done it. I saved a lot of money by doing it myself.

This wasn't made to be a tutorial

Firenzecolor has a Wall2Floor system that is good for high level water areas. This might be something you look into. If you don't want to do the complete system, I believe you can use the sealers from that system over your plaster to get a similar waterproofness. Feel free to use our code AFIA10 for 10% off if you decide to order from them. It also might be worth sending them an email to discuss your exact project needs.

Thanks!

Thanks! Glad you liked it.

These two are very close in my opinion. It really comes down to how you apply them. If you don't add very much compression, both of them can be matte. I would say that VP suede might have ever so slightly larger aggregate (wouldn't be able to tell unless you look extremely close) This could possibly lend itself to more of a matte look but again, hard to say. I think you'd be happy with either of them.

Some people do. I've never tried using that though.

Glad it was helpful!

I'm self taught. Always learning.

Thanks! Glad you liked it!

You can buy the materials at Frienzecolor here - bit.ly/firenzecolor-home You can also use code AFIA10 for 10% off your order!

Yes, you can definitely over burnish. You can burnish good Venetian plaster pretty far, but still wouldn't recommend it. If you want sharp outside corners, just scraping with a putty knife works well to maintain the edge. If you want it rounded, getting a plastic bullnose tool is probably your best bet.

@@AlongForItAll after I burnish, I notice a few corners that aren’t very crisp. Can you just smear some plaster on, let it dry and then sand to form a crisp edge?

If you've already burnished, it might be good to lightly sand the plaster to open it back up a bit then work on redoing the edge. Often times what I'd do, is make sure I have a decent edge on the first coat. If not, I work on fixing that edge and then sand it down prior to my second coat and burnish after that.

Thanks! That means a lot!

Glad you liked it!

This was pre-tinted sample pIaster received to try out. You can order this plaster untinted. I believe it will end up being a slightly warm milky color but I've never tried it. If you are wanting a crisp white color, often times they will add a bit of blue. They can color match to pretty much any paint color chip.

It’s hard to know without being there to see. Typically plaster will go one darker when it’s wet and dry lighter. If you noticed a general lightening up, then it’s probably the color it’s going to be. Hope this helps.

Thats a good point. Anything is helpful.

Here's where you can buy the gear - amzn.to/3FOYFHh

1. You don't need to use the Ardex to get the same look. That was only used to create a seamless surface for the plaster to go on. 2. I always recommend using a primer before applying plaster. If you are using maramino KS, I'd recommend a quartz primer - bit.ly/firenzeprimer 3. You can't tint this at the paint store. You will either need to buy this pre-tinted or tint it using plaster tints.

Thank you! We've been stalled and now we can finish this project! @@AlongForItAll

Without seeing it, it's hard to know exactly. My suggestion though would be to sand the area down a bit and apply more plaster over the top. This can be a tricky thing to do in order to get it to blend in with the old stuff. As always, I recommend sealing your plaster as plaster is porous. This will help avoid stains.

Just guessing. I keep hearing something about wax being used. I'm thinking any counter top sealer would work great as plaster is technically stone and porous at that. Light sand areas in question just a little, dry trowel, machine or hand buff to a sheen to match original the seal everything. Test in inconspicuous area first

Sorry, kinda hard to see.

I don't make a living doing plaster so I don't know the ins and outs of the business.

Thanks for the feedback. The plaster I use is either samples I've received or left over plaster I've used. So I'm not in control of the colors. I did request some brighter colors that you can see in some of our videos.

Maybe, I'm not sure since I've never tried it. Worth doing a test to see if it works out.

😄