This is like the only video on the whole tube that matched my search for watercooling settings/tuning. Haven't watched whole yet but got a thumbs up for just making this video.
Also I love how you set up the loop with a rad between cpu/gpu. So much discussion about loop order and ppl claiming it makes no difference at all but this must be the optimal way to do it.
This video is extremely helpful! My new tower had all the fans going full blast when I bought it, but nothing was ever even remotely warm. But now having changed all the fans to smart fan mode my tower is absolutely silent most of the day and still is as cool as it always was.
Big thanks really.. Been 2 days using AIO and searching for the clear and more sense helpful video and just now it answers all in one video you made from 2 years ago.. Anyway again kudos bro
I can't believe it's taken me this long to run across your channel, not to mention finally realize you're also the guy that built a cockpit out of an actual Porsche GT3, but I followed a lot of your progress on the iRacing and old Inside Sim Racing forums! In any case, you've uploaded some fantastic comment, and this video was especially helpful. After deciding to upgrade to a 5600X, but unable to acquire an RTX 3080/90, I thought a custom loop might help my aging GTX 1080 last a little longer, and eventually ended up replacing everything but the GPU. Nearly six months later, after trying out 3 different cases and innumerable rads, reservoirs, fittings, and even swapping out motherboards, I've just about finished my build (and thanks to Amazon's return policy, I kept to a "reasonable") budget. All that's really left is setting up my fan/pump curves, and then I'll post a build log on the iRacing forums. Perhaps unfortunately, I'm using an Aquacomputer Quadro for fan/pump control, and the associated AquasuiteX software, although quite robust, is much more fiddly than your BIOS options. Aquasuite quirks aside, I'm thinking I should set up my case airflow to maintain positive pressure (for dust minimization), and want to confirm that's a good idea first. My front 360 rad is setup for intake (push), with a top 240 setup to exhaust (pull). I also have a single 120mm exhaust fan attached to the rear panel. In the rear compartment, my PSU fan is setup for intake, but it rarely turns on, and is also blocked by the midwall. So with three intakes attached to a rad, and two rad attached exhausts + a standard exhaust, I'll need to run my exhaust fans slower than my intakes, no? But what about my rear exhaust fan? Unlike my rad fans, it's essentially unobstructed, and thus much more efficient, right? So should I run it even slower than my other two exhaust fans? Sorry writing a dissertation, but after spending so much time on my build, I don't want to ruin its performance with poor thermal management.
Thanks for the kind words. Have a look at our rig your video and you’ll see it’s not actually a real Porsche cockpit, it’s mixed reality :) my hands and the steering wheel are real, everything else is on the screens. It will be hard to maintain positive pressure if your intake fans are obstructed and your exhaust is not. Ideally I’d suggest having your radiator on the exhaust side so the warm air exits the case immediately if possible.
You have a new sub sir! i watched your overclocking video about my i5 9600K, which by the way i'm gonna go for the i7 9700K, and now this on cooling. Great information!! I have the Aorus Z390 Pro mobo ( which i love! ) and now i wanna get into my bios at look at my fan curve settings, also i have a all in one liquid cooler.
I set up my first loop on a darkhero and found this video so helpful. I had my pump on the HAMP and moved it to the pump header and one set of fans I had on the CPU header but it wouldn't let me set the curved so I moved that and it's really running so cool!
I run my Pump at 100% all the time because of a simple reason. It is much quieter on 100% than on 80ish %. It somehow produces resonances which makes the pump louder. But the pump is mounted with rubber etc.
Hey, this is the first video I watched from you with my new water loop. Idk what new videos are like, but if you would add in some graphics just bullet pointing, would be extremely helpful. And maybe some time stamps. Great video, thank you
Nice discussion. This is the main reason I do not like those all glass cases with virtually no vents. Give me the old school vented cases. I see folks complain about temperature and they are all fan cooled in all all glass enclose case - makes no sense to me. Additionally, I see folks talking about having 18, 24 etc fans in a case and I am like WTF why so many fans. You need air movement and the fans don't have to be blasting air either, just moving it in one direction...in....out. The same applies to the water pump. You don't need to have it blasting at 100%, just a smooth flow will get the job done.
Great video, have been looking for a good source to explain fan and pump control and sensors for a custom loop for a while! I will be using this technique in my upcoming build 👌
DC mode on some motherboards actually works correctly. What I want is a fan controller that lets you set a max temp and it uses a PID loop to keep that temp. Example I would love to set the water temp to a max high value and regardless of time of year, loads, etc. it would adjust the fans to always not let it go over that. I could build one I guess, I have the background. Cheaper to find something however.
That’s pretty much what I did here except using the motherboard to read the temperature of the water and drive the fans rather than a dedicated controller.
@@boostedmedia The problem with the motherboards is they don't let you set a temperature, only a curve. A controller with a PID loop could hold that max temp 24/7 regardless of ambient, etc. within a fraction of a degree by constantly adjusting the fan speed in micro amounts.
i have a question if i have 2 pumps in my pc build do i plug both on to my cpu pump header with a splitter? or just 1 to the cpu header and other to a different header? im just trying to controll the speeds of the pumps
I just traded for a Huge Digital Storm computer that is liquid cooled. I never dealt with a liquid cooled system. I've noticed the reservoir is only about 1/3 full and the system fans cycle up and down during normal use. Should I top off the water reservoir? I'm still trying to figure out the fan cycling....
Perhaps a silly question, but should i be feeling some draft pulling through the radiator, if i place my hand just behind it? Fans spinning but I don't feel any air flowing through the radiator.
What i have found out with my external rig 2 loops one for my CPU 1 X 480 GTX and 1X 240 GTX black ice nemesis GPU 2 x 420 black ice nemesis. The CPU spikes are lower and my water temps Idle are the same as room temp with fan speed 350 RPM.And my case temps are 3 a 4 degrees lower and looks much cleaner only 2 hardtube CP and 2 hardtube GPU and it is a much safer than all the connetions from radiators and pomps- resevoirs.I have did this because when i change hardware motherboard-CP-GPU it takes me only a few hours.Greetings from the Netherlands
Temperature reading of the CPU was probably mixed with the water and the cpu IHS itself. Water temperature trough the loop should be the same or vary by 1 degree max.
Would be great to know for air cooling the CPU if max fan setting vs variable fan setting (bios temp curve) is better for the "best" performance. I'm thinking the variable feedback loop is too slow and should run CPU fans on max all the time for the very best performance. What do you think?
Fans at 100% all the time will always deliver the very best performance. For an air cooler I typically have my fans run relative to CPU load or temp with histerisis on the roll off so they don’t keep spinning up and down.
You have connected you pump to your cpu temps. When you are gaming for example with low cpu usage and high gpu load (both watercooled) wouldnt that fast overheat the system?
Just starting to do with after an overclock to get the noise level noise down a bit - could be a silly question but should I leave qfan control enabled? thanks so much
Please help !!!! I have a Aorus master z490 full closed loop , i9 10900k , rtx 3090 , cpu runs at 46c on idle and 83c full load in my bios there is know pump controls under fans , it just says the flow rate is at 0 please help
I tried your setup, but my fans are not playing well. Im using Maximus Xi Formula. Fan ramps up during stress tests and are not following my t sensor fan curve. I am using my EVOLV X's built in fan hub (plugged in CHA 3 header). I have Q FAN configuraton on auto like you as well and they aren't on manual.
My pump is always running at 100 percent.. however it's on a AIO pump header.. question would it be ok to put pump or pumps on a another fan header for PWM control?? Thanks mate.
my case got a total of 5 fans in it, all are noctua 120MM, 1 exhaust back, 2 front intake, and 2 on my air cooler, i got them all setup in bios to run at pwm manual 1500rpm. thoughts on it?
So the vertical fans transform the cold air into hot air, this gets blow into the case and then picked up by the top fans, so the top radiator is actually pulling hot air no doing anything?
Great vid. I, like you, play racing sims. Out of all the sims Automobilista 2 seems to stress the cpu (i9 10850) and gpu (RTX 3090) both water cooled, the most. Cpu is 55-60deg and gpu is 45-50deg. Do these temps seem ok to you?
I know this video is pretty old but I feel like this is a pretty good topic that I suck at, I have the Lian Li Dynamic 011 and I don't have my set up watercooled (YET) so I have an 8 fan set up: 3 fans blowing air out of my all in in rad/loop up top, 3 side fans pulling air in & then for the bottom I have 1 fan pulling are out (where my GPU is) and then (1) on the bottom blowing air in (closest to the 3 side fans) and my GPU even under heavy games is fine (gotta love a 2080ti) but my GPU I feel like could be cooler for how rapidly it can spike up. It typically sits in the middle 50's & 60's depending on the game which isn't bad at all and they're basically silent. They're all Corsair LL 120 fans but I'm wondering if there's another configuration that might help me keep it cooler especially since I want to try my hands at overclocking it & see if I can get all (8) cores to run on 5 MAYBE 5.1 ghz stable. I tried it before but I let ASUS do the overclocking automatically and it just wasn't stable at all, games would crash after a while especially running GTA but even overwatch would cause the infamous blue screen so I set it back to default settings and haven't tried it again but I want to give it another go. The CPU is a 9700k as well
I have an NZXT Kraken X62 AIO (I know, I'm a CLC noob) and I've been looking all over the place for optimal pump settings for this thing. Do you have an suggestions? The NZXT CAM software has two profiles (silent & performance) preconfigured, would those be my best bet? Or should I be modifying it... Or does it matter at all on an AIO?
I was just curious what you used to seal off the extra space on the top of your case? I was thinking of doing the same. and do you also have two fans on the top of your radiator?
Hi I have a Corsair H150i Pro cooler. I am unable to control my pump speed , it always stays the same around 2000RPM and doesn’t change even after I change the fan setting. Why is this?
Boosted Media thanks for answering. Does that mean that am only able to control pump speed only through their software, and not through the BIOS? Thanks!
Your video was really helpful but please try to work on that redundancy. You‘re telling us to maximize airflow and avoid turbulence at least 5 times in the first 5 mins. Cheers
Currently using a Scythe Fuma 2 as my CPU cooler, would you recommend using similar settings for the fan profile as to what you have set for your custom loop? Also for the system fan my bios doesn’t show an option for motherboard but instead shows System and MOS, do you know which of these would be better to rely on for temps? Sorry I’m just a bit new when it comes to adjusting settings within the bios besides things such as setting your XMP profile. Thanks!
Am i Right if I say, there is now way to get the pump running under 100% when the temperature reach 70 degrees or go above ? In every benchmark I did, while I’m hitting the 70 degrees, I feel like I’m standing next to cape canaveral while starting a rocket. Cause my pump go up to 100% of load.
With a PWM pump you can set it to do whatever you want. I like to increase my pump speed relative to CPU temperature to help with controlling spikes but there’s no reason you couldn’t link it to water or motherboard/case temperature as long as your CPU temps aren’t detrimentally affected.
Boosted Media thank you! My pump is a EK WB xTop Revo D5 PWM. At the fancurve for the Pump I can set all I want, but only under 70 degrees fore over 70 degrees the bios Software don’t let me set something under 100% load. Is it my failure ?
Hey man, nice vid. Just a quick question: As I have the same MB I was wondering how it will go for me having my water pump plugged into the CPU fan header. A few reasons I did this. 1 if the pump stops I heard the pc will shut down as it thinks CPU fan has stopped. 2 Water pump header is being used because I need the 3A header. and 3 I don't have an extension to reach the AIO header. I was wondering if I will still be able to have good control over the water pump doing this?? Looking at your settings it looked quite limited with CPU fan settings. :(
It depends how much current your pump draws from the header. Most pumps are fine because they just use the header for PWM signal and a molex or sata for power.
Boosted Media yeah my pump uses moles for power and it's just a pwm cable going to CPU header. Was just wondering how well its could be controlled in bios going to the CPU header...
Boosted Media yeah that's what I'm curious about lol. Will it give me the control I require.. it's all good though if it doesn't I will just buy that extension and plug it into the AIO header instead
I wish you did the fan control for air cooler, the temperature at the end change when using the air cooler. You said 39 degrees for upper temperature but when you have an air cooler it shows "cpu upper temperature" and it should be set at around 75 Degree or above to get 100 percent duty cycle But the middle and lower, in not sure what to do,Its going ot be trial and error. Unleashed I find help.
Awesome video mate, I just finished my first custom loop and this really helped me with bios setup. I do have a question I'm hoping you can help me with. I have a front mounted 360mm rad with pull fans and a top mounted 360mm rad with push fans. I thought having a rear fan as intake to provide cooler air for the top rad and achieve positive pressure to lessen dust was a good idea, but obviously this will cause a bit of turbulence - Would you recommend removing the rear fan, or having it as exhaust instead of intake, or is it fine as an intake to provide cooler air to the top rad fans? Thanks for any help!
Thanks for this awesome tutorial. The only thing what isnt working is that the hamp fan middle duty cycle and the hamp fan min duty cycle are always 100% :/ any ideas?
Thanks, this was very helpful, the part where you explain the bios setting in particular. Does it means your motherboard have 2 PWM header ? Or do you use a fan hub or some sort of controller ? If yes which one ? Thanks again :)
Hey guys, i have a 240mm corsair all in one cooler and i run the 2 fans at about 700-750rpm at idle, my cpu (r5 3600) runs at about 38 degrees idle which is pretty normal, but the thing is my water idles at 34 degrees and under load when my fans are at about 1200rpm the water temperature gets to around 38 degrees (quiet preset on pump). Can anyone help me because this was not happening at all 2 months ago, idle temps didnt exceed 32 on the water and rarely exceeded 34 under load.
I have huge CPU Problems lately and i really dont know where they come from. The CPU stresses out without nearly running anything powerconsuming. I have a i7-8700k and i get 1320 points a cinebench and i have watercooling. I already changed the thermal paste but it didnt really change anything significantly.
@@boostedmedia Yes! Everythings fine in Taskmanager no spooky programms powerconsuming. I put new Windows on it recently and new frimware so everythings fine softwarewise. Is it possible to not put the watercooling onto the CPU correctly or something like that ?
I have the same Res and for the life of me I cannot get the blue LEDs to work. Every other color works. I’m stumped. I tried updating Aura Sync and still the same issue. Sucks because this means no pink, purple, White etc. any color that needs a little blue
Boosted Media so I exchanged my RGB Res Pump combo and the same problem 😭 all colors work but blue. It is plugged into an RGB splitter. I wonder if it is a faulty plug. It is a three way split. I have my gpu block and Res plugged in. The gpu works, but the Res doesn’t. I have a third plug not being used. I’ll try that one and hope it works. Any thoughts?
thanks for the reply. Pretty sure PWM yea, now the header is what I've suspected for awhile now. I purchased it from a boutique when GFX cards were 2 mil a piece (saved 500$ buying a prebuilt.. whoda thunk. Wouldn't work now that RTX has dropped and mining as slowed down) and the boutique I purchased it from never hooked it up to the specific PUMP node. I RMA'd it 3 times, seriously.
The mistake your making is checking your water temp very shortly after starting the stress test. The water loop will get hotter over time, kind of like a kettle, once you introduce heat, it isn't instantly boiled. And if it's in an enclosed case, eventually, all the hot air inside it will decrease the radiators cooling efficiency, also leading to water temp rise.. key is not to be prematurely checking. Let it run for an hour or so
The temperatures you quote in this are super inaccurately measured. Those thermometers don't work how they're marketed to. It's not the laser measuring the temperature. That's just for aiming. You'll see in the end that it has a cone, that cone defines the divergence angle of the area it measures the average temperature over. So the further away you are from the part, the bigger the area it's measuring the average temperature of. They also don't give accurate readings on glass or metal. Mainly just accurate for plastic or flesh. Always get it as close to the thing as you can. If you're trying to measure something smaller than the cone then you've got little chance of accuracy. If it's metal or glass then put some PVC tape on it and measure the temperature of the tape for a more accurate reading.
Output from GPU 26.7C -> RAD -> Input to CPU 28 ... so your radiators heating the water? ... no, the IR temp tool your using to measure does not work on reflective surfaces. This video is nonsense :D
you ask me to sub and like and i havent seen the video yet so based on that i wont like or sub even though what you said is useful and i do like what you do . i dont like that people ask for payment before a job is done and basicly thats what youtubers are doing by asking up front for subs and likes .... why dont you guys wait and ask when people have seen what you have to offer and most of the time you dont have to cause if what your doing is good then people know how to like and how to sub .. duno to many people that dont know how youtube works . please make a change for all mankind
Lol! I suggested to subscribe at the beginning of the video so you don’t miss the future updates on the subject. Only about 3% of my views come from subs so I honestly couldn’t care less of you subscribe or not. You’ll find it’s the same for most tech channels. I find it hilarious that you consider a subscription to be “payment”. Payment would be becoming a patron or making a donation. But literally nobody ever does that because the world is full of entitled people like you who expect everything for free.
This is like the only video on the whole tube that matched my search for watercooling settings/tuning. Haven't watched whole yet but got a thumbs up for just making this video.
Also I love how you set up the loop with a rad between cpu/gpu. So much discussion about loop order and ppl claiming it makes no difference at all but this must be the optimal way to do it.
This video is extremely helpful! My new tower had all the fans going full blast when I bought it, but nothing was ever even remotely warm. But now having changed all the fans to smart fan mode my tower is absolutely silent most of the day and still is as cool as it always was.
Excellent! Glad it helped!!
Dude thank you so much, litterally saved me from shipping back my computer and waiting a month for a little fix that you showed.
Discovered your channel yesterday and have already watched many of your videos. Would like a video about fan curves with air cooler.
Clearly we'll explained than those big channels... 🥇 Keep it up bro. Thanks
Big thanks really.. Been 2 days using AIO and searching for the clear and more sense helpful video and just now it answers all in one video you made from 2 years ago.. Anyway again kudos bro
I can't believe it's taken me this long to run across your channel, not to mention finally realize you're also the guy that built a cockpit out of an actual Porsche GT3, but I followed a lot of your progress on the iRacing and old Inside Sim Racing forums!
In any case, you've uploaded some fantastic comment, and this video was especially helpful.
After deciding to upgrade to a 5600X, but unable to acquire an RTX 3080/90, I thought a custom loop might help my aging GTX 1080 last a little longer, and eventually ended up replacing everything but the GPU.
Nearly six months later, after trying out 3 different cases and innumerable rads, reservoirs, fittings, and even swapping out motherboards, I've just about finished my build (and thanks to Amazon's return policy, I kept to a "reasonable") budget.
All that's really left is setting up my fan/pump curves, and then I'll post a build log on the iRacing forums. Perhaps unfortunately, I'm using an Aquacomputer Quadro for fan/pump control, and the associated AquasuiteX software, although quite robust, is much more fiddly than your BIOS options.
Aquasuite quirks aside, I'm thinking I should set up my case airflow to maintain positive pressure (for dust minimization), and want to confirm that's a good idea first. My front 360 rad is setup for intake (push), with a top 240 setup to exhaust (pull). I also have a single 120mm exhaust fan attached to the rear panel. In the rear compartment, my PSU fan is setup for intake, but it rarely turns on, and is also blocked by the midwall.
So with three intakes attached to a rad, and two rad attached exhausts + a standard exhaust, I'll need to run my exhaust fans slower than my intakes, no? But what about my rear exhaust fan? Unlike my rad fans, it's essentially unobstructed, and thus much more efficient, right?
So should I run it even slower than my other two exhaust fans?
Sorry writing a dissertation, but after spending so much time on my build, I don't want to ruin its performance with poor thermal management.
Thanks for the kind words. Have a look at our rig your video and you’ll see it’s not actually a real Porsche cockpit, it’s mixed reality :) my hands and the steering wheel are real, everything else is on the screens.
It will be hard to maintain positive pressure if your intake fans are obstructed and your exhaust is not.
Ideally I’d suggest having your radiator on the exhaust side so the warm air exits the case immediately if possible.
What a great walkthrough. Many thanks
You have a new sub sir! i watched your overclocking video about my i5 9600K, which by the way i'm gonna go for the i7 9700K, and now this on cooling. Great information!! I have the Aorus Z390 Pro mobo ( which i love! ) and now i wanna get into my bios at look at my fan curve settings, also i have a all in one liquid cooler.
I set up my first loop on a darkhero and found this video so helpful. I had my pump on the HAMP and moved it to the pump header and one set of fans I had on the CPU header but it wouldn't let me set the curved so I moved that and it's really running so cool!
Finally! Good accurate information! Thank you 😊
I run my Pump at 100% all the time because of a simple reason.
It is much quieter on 100% than on 80ish %. It somehow produces resonances which makes the pump louder.
But the pump is mounted with rubber etc.
Hey, this is the first video I watched from you with my new water loop. Idk what new videos are like, but if you would add in some graphics just bullet pointing, would be extremely helpful. And maybe some time stamps.
Great video, thank you
Nice discussion. This is the main reason I do not like those all glass cases with virtually no vents. Give me the old school vented cases. I see folks complain about temperature and they are all fan cooled in all all glass enclose case - makes no sense to me. Additionally, I see folks talking about having 18, 24 etc fans in a case and I am like WTF why so many fans. You need air movement and the fans don't have to be blasting air either, just moving it in one direction...in....out. The same applies to the water pump. You don't need to have it blasting at 100%, just a smooth flow will get the job done.
Hey Will! Thank you! You answered every question I had and I didn’t have to ask. 👌🏽
You’re welcome Dean.
Great video and thank you for dumbing things down so us newwbees can understand. Excellent job!
You’re welcome mate. Glad it helped.
awesome video, thank you so much i thought there was an issue with my rig, clearly there was until I followed your advice. Thank you sir
Great video, have been looking for a good source to explain fan and pump control and sensors for a custom loop for a while! I will be using this technique in my upcoming build 👌
Glad to hear it helped.
This video was really helpful for my next watercooled build. Thanks mate ✌
You’re welcome :) thanks for the comment.
DC mode on some motherboards actually works correctly. What I want is a fan controller that lets you set a max temp and it uses a PID loop to keep that temp. Example I would love to set the water temp to a max high value and regardless of time of year, loads, etc. it would adjust the fans to always not let it go over that. I could build one I guess, I have the background. Cheaper to find something however.
That’s pretty much what I did here except using the motherboard to read the temperature of the water and drive the fans rather than a dedicated controller.
@@boostedmedia The problem with the motherboards is they don't let you set a temperature, only a curve. A controller with a PID loop could hold that max temp 24/7 regardless of ambient, etc. within a fraction of a degree by constantly adjusting the fan speed in micro amounts.
Thank you for showing the bios settings
Very straightforward.. Great job!!
i have a question if i have 2 pumps in my pc build do i plug both on to my cpu pump header with a splitter? or just 1 to the cpu header and other to a different header? im just trying to controll the speeds of the pumps
I just traded for a Huge Digital Storm computer that is liquid cooled. I never dealt with a liquid cooled system. I've noticed the reservoir is only about 1/3 full and the system fans cycle up and down during normal use. Should I top off the water reservoir? I'm still trying to figure out the fan cycling....
What did you connect to your cpu fan header? You must have connected a fan to it right? Other wise your system won't boot?
Perhaps a silly question, but should i be feeling some draft pulling through the radiator, if i place my hand just behind it? Fans spinning but I don't feel any air flowing through the radiator.
What i have found out with my external rig 2 loops one for my CPU 1 X 480 GTX and 1X 240 GTX black ice nemesis GPU 2 x 420 black ice nemesis. The CPU spikes are lower and my water temps Idle are the same as
room temp with fan speed 350 RPM.And my case temps are 3 a 4 degrees lower and looks much cleaner only 2 hardtube CP and 2 hardtube GPU and it is a much safer than all the connetions
from radiators and pomps- resevoirs.I have did this because when i change hardware motherboard-CP-GPU it takes me only a few hours.Greetings from the Netherlands
Temperature reading of the CPU was probably mixed with the water and the cpu IHS itself. Water temperature trough the loop should be the same or vary by 1 degree max.
when setting up the upper, middle, and lower temperatures what software do I use to determine those temps in my system?
Would be great to know for air cooling the CPU if max fan setting vs variable fan setting (bios temp curve) is better for the "best" performance. I'm thinking the variable feedback loop is too slow and should run CPU fans on max all the time for the very best performance. What do you think?
Fans at 100% all the time will always deliver the very best performance. For an air cooler I typically have my fans run relative to CPU load or temp with histerisis on the roll off so they don’t keep spinning up and down.
with the top fans being set up as exhaust fans. wouldn't be warming up the liquid in the top rad?
Been waiting on this.
Got it done as fast as I could ;)
What did you use to block the top of the case off with??
do you have have front case fans on that rig cheers? meaning on the outside of case at front thanks
You have connected you pump to your cpu temps. When you are gaming for example with low cpu usage and high gpu load (both watercooled) wouldnt that fast overheat the system?
No
@@boostedmedia i thought the pump was based on the water temp not cpu temp?
Great video! Super helpful. Is there any reason you don’t control everything by the water temp?
Just starting to do with after an overclock to get the noise level noise down a bit - could be a silly question but should I leave qfan control enabled? thanks so much
Yep
Would you please provide link to a water coolant t-sensor? I’m looking for a g1/4 to screw into my reservoir
Please help !!!! I have a Aorus master z490 full closed loop , i9 10900k , rtx 3090 , cpu runs at 46c on idle and 83c full load in my bios there is know pump controls under fans , it just says the flow rate is at 0 please help
I tried your setup, but my fans are not playing well. Im using Maximus Xi Formula. Fan ramps up during stress tests and are not following my t sensor fan curve. I am using my EVOLV X's built in fan hub (plugged in CHA 3 header). I have Q FAN configuraton on auto like you as well and they aren't on manual.
So you connected pump to the w-pump header, and NOT the cpu fan header?
Yep. The CPU fan header doesn’t allow for control of the fan speed relative to an external temperature sensor on moth motherboards.
amazing video, period. ( i barely never comment any video.)
Thanks a lot. Glad you liked it.
My pump is always running at 100 percent.. however it's on a AIO pump header.. question would it be ok to put pump or pumps on a another fan header for PWM control?? Thanks mate.
my case got a total of 5 fans in it, all are noctua 120MM, 1 exhaust back, 2 front intake, and 2 on my air cooler, i got them all setup in bios to run at pwm manual 1500rpm. thoughts on it?
Seems reasonable but hard to say without knowing other specs and what the PC is used for.
@@boostedmedia i sent you an email, if you have the time to read it i would be very happy.
So, will a big side fan help or does that just screw up the airflow and cause turbulence? I have two front / two back and then a big side fan.
It depends what it’s cooling and where the air is directed. But generally yes side fans do more harm than good.
Learned a lot from this thank you
So the vertical fans transform the cold air into hot air, this gets blow into the case and then picked up by the top fans, so the top radiator is actually pulling hot air no doing anything?
Great vid. I, like you, play racing sims. Out of all the sims Automobilista 2 seems to stress the cpu (i9 10850) and gpu (RTX 3090) both water cooled, the most. Cpu is 55-60deg and gpu is 45-50deg. Do these temps seem ok to you?
Yep totally fine.
@@boostedmedia out of interest what temp is your water under load
Never goes above 33C with 23C room temp.
@@boostedmedia thanks for the speedy reply :)
I know this video is pretty old but I feel like this is a pretty good topic that I suck at, I have the Lian Li Dynamic 011 and I don't have my set up watercooled (YET) so I have an 8 fan set up: 3 fans blowing air out of my all in in rad/loop up top, 3 side fans pulling air in & then for the bottom I have 1 fan pulling are out (where my GPU is) and then (1) on the bottom blowing air in (closest to the 3 side fans) and my GPU even under heavy games is fine (gotta love a 2080ti) but my GPU I feel like could be cooler for how rapidly it can spike up. It typically sits in the middle 50's & 60's depending on the game which isn't bad at all and they're basically silent. They're all Corsair LL 120 fans but I'm wondering if there's another configuration that might help me keep it cooler especially since I want to try my hands at overclocking it & see if I can get all (8) cores to run on 5 MAYBE 5.1 ghz stable. I tried it before but I let ASUS do the overclocking automatically and it just wasn't stable at all, games would crash after a while especially running GTA but even overwatch would cause the infamous blue screen so I set it back to default settings and haven't tried it again but I want to give it another go. The CPU is a 9700k as well
I can see the top fans and rear fan is push air out. Is the front fans pushing or pulling air into chassis?
Pushing
I have an NZXT Kraken X62 AIO (I know, I'm a CLC noob) and I've been looking all over the place for optimal pump settings for this thing. Do you have an suggestions? The NZXT CAM software has two profiles (silent & performance) preconfigured, would those be my best bet? Or should I be modifying it... Or does it matter at all on an AIO?
I have AIO for CPU and GPU. should I just use the software that comes with those AIOs?
I was just curious what you used to seal off the extra space on the top of your case? I was thinking of doing the same. and do you also have two fans on the top of your radiator?
No just fans on the bottom. I just used a black piece of Perspex cut to size with a dremel.
Ahhh that's smart. Thanks!
Hi I have a Corsair H150i Pro cooler. I am unable to control my pump speed , it always stays the same around 2000RPM and doesn’t change even after I change the fan setting. Why is this?
Corsair have their own software for pump control called CUE.
Boosted Media thanks for answering. Does that mean that am only able to control pump speed only through their software, and not through the BIOS?
Thanks!
@@boostedmedia iCUE ;)
Your video was really helpful but please try to work on that redundancy. You‘re telling us to maximize airflow and avoid turbulence at least 5 times in the first 5 mins. Cheers
So your water pump does not kick on until the temp reaches 50 degrees? What happens to water pump when temps are below 50 degrees?
Currently using a Scythe Fuma 2 as my CPU cooler, would you recommend using similar settings for the fan profile as to what you have set for your custom loop? Also for the system fan my bios doesn’t show an option for motherboard but instead shows System and MOS, do you know which of these would be better to rely on for temps? Sorry I’m just a bit new when it comes to adjusting settings within the bios besides things such as setting your XMP profile. Thanks!
im using 2 intakes in the front through radiator, 1 intake at the bottom and 1 exhaust at the back. is that enought exhaust?
Am i Right if I say, there is now way to get the pump running under 100% when the temperature reach 70 degrees or go above ?
In every benchmark I did, while I’m hitting the 70 degrees, I feel like I’m standing next to cape canaveral while starting a rocket. Cause my pump go up to 100% of load.
With a PWM pump you can set it to do whatever you want. I like to increase my pump speed relative to CPU temperature to help with controlling spikes but there’s no reason you couldn’t link it to water or motherboard/case temperature as long as your CPU temps aren’t detrimentally affected.
Boosted Media thank you!
My pump is a EK WB xTop Revo D5 PWM.
At the fancurve for the Pump I can set all I want, but only under 70 degrees fore over 70 degrees the bios Software don’t let me set something under 100% load. Is it my failure ?
Hey man, nice vid. Just a quick question: As I have the same MB I was wondering how it will go for me having my water pump plugged into the CPU fan header. A few reasons I did this. 1 if the pump stops I heard the pc will shut down as it thinks CPU fan has stopped. 2 Water pump header is being used because I need the 3A header. and 3 I don't have an extension to reach the AIO header. I was wondering if I will still be able to have good control over the water pump doing this?? Looking at your settings it looked quite limited with CPU fan settings. :(
It depends how much current your pump draws from the header. Most pumps are fine because they just use the header for PWM signal and a molex or sata for power.
Boosted Media yeah my pump uses moles for power and it's just a pwm cable going to CPU header. Was just wondering how well its could be controlled in bios going to the CPU header...
Really just comes down to how you want to control it in that case. You’re fine to use the CPU fan header if it gives you the control you’re after. :)
Boosted Media yeah that's what I'm curious about lol. Will it give me the control I require.. it's all good though if it doesn't I will just buy that extension and plug it into the AIO header instead
I wish you did the fan control for air cooler, the temperature at the end change when using the air cooler.
You said 39 degrees for upper temperature but when you have an air cooler it shows "cpu upper temperature" and it should be set at around 75 Degree or above to get 100 percent duty cycle
But the middle and lower, in not sure what to do,Its going ot be trial and error. Unleashed I find help.
My z390h doesn’t have hamp section. Only aio pump section. How do I work around this? My idle fans are 1200 rpm which is too loud I think.
Checked under “Chassis Fans”?
Boosted Media yup under chassis fans I only have chassis fan 1&2 Q-fan control
Which header are your fans connected to on the motherboard?
Hey man, great video. Can you drop a picture of where you placed your temp sensor?
Awesome video mate, I just finished my first custom loop and this really helped me with bios setup. I do have a question I'm hoping you can help me with. I have a front mounted 360mm rad with pull fans and a top mounted 360mm rad with push fans. I thought having a rear fan as intake to provide cooler air for the top rad and achieve positive pressure to lessen dust was a good idea, but obviously this will cause a bit of turbulence - Would you recommend removing the rear fan, or having it as exhaust instead of intake, or is it fine as an intake to provide cooler air to the top rad fans?
Thanks for any help!
Id change it to exhaust mate.
Thanks for this awesome tutorial. The only thing what isnt working is that the hamp fan middle duty cycle and the hamp fan min duty cycle are always 100% :/ any ideas?
What temp sensor do you use?
So if I blue screen off this how would I fix it?
Thanks, this was very helpful, the part where you explain the bios setting in particular. Does it means your motherboard have 2 PWM header ?
Or do you use a fan hub or some sort of controller ? If yes which one ? Thanks again :)
I’m using a fan controller and a single PWM header on the motherboard
@@boostedmedia Can you add it to the list with an amzn link like other components ?
It came with my case.
@@boostedmedia Thanks, i need to ask a more detailed question, can i send you an email to
info@boostedautos.net ?
Hey guys, i have a 240mm corsair all in one cooler and i run the 2 fans at about 700-750rpm at idle, my cpu (r5 3600) runs at about 38 degrees idle which is pretty normal, but the thing is my water idles at 34 degrees and under load when my fans are at about 1200rpm the water temperature gets to around 38 degrees (quiet preset on pump). Can anyone help me because this was not happening at all 2 months ago, idle temps didnt exceed 32 on the water and rarely exceeded 34 under load.
I have huge CPU Problems lately and i really dont know where they come from.
The CPU stresses out without nearly running anything powerconsuming.
I have a i7-8700k and i get 1320 points a cinebench and i have watercooling.
I already changed the thermal paste but it didnt really change anything significantly.
Sounds like you might have a virus or something hogging system resources. Had a look at task manager?
@@boostedmedia Yes! Everythings fine in Taskmanager no spooky programms powerconsuming. I put new Windows on it recently and new frimware so everythings fine softwarewise.
Is it possible to not put the watercooling onto the CPU correctly or something like that ?
Possible. Depends what your temps are.
@@boostedmedia Yeah, they spike even though i renewed thermal Paste :(
I really dont know what to do, with not even any program running my temperatures are at 50°C @@boostedmedia
Conclusion, get a laser gun to play around with looks like good fun
Haha! Yep that’s definitely the take away here.
I have the same Res and for the life of me I cannot get the blue LEDs to work. Every other color works. I’m stumped. I tried updating Aura Sync and still the same issue. Sucks because this means no pink, purple, White etc. any color that needs a little blue
Probably faulty I’d say
I assumed if one color worked on an RGB strip they all should. I guess not 😓
Boosted Media so I exchanged my RGB Res Pump combo and the same problem 😭 all colors work but blue. It is plugged into an RGB splitter. I wonder if it is a faulty plug. It is a three way split. I have my gpu block and Res plugged in. The gpu works, but the Res doesn’t. I have a third plug not being used. I’ll try that one and hope it works. Any thoughts?
Are you sure you’re using the RGB header and not Addressable? That’s bizzare.
Boosted Media hmmmm. How can I tell the difference?
If my mobo can't see the water pump, but it seems to be running, what up wit dat?
Same BIOS, Hero Max wifi X
Is it a PWM pump and do you have the BIOS set to PWM mode for the header you’re using?
thanks for the reply. Pretty sure PWM yea, now the header is what I've suspected for awhile now. I purchased it from a boutique when GFX cards were 2 mil a piece (saved 500$ buying a prebuilt.. whoda thunk. Wouldn't work now that RTX has dropped and mining as slowed down) and the boutique I purchased it from never hooked it up to the specific PUMP node. I RMA'd it 3 times, seriously.
I've done a fair amount of searching and most sites say that port isn't necessary, but from your reply and my lack of progress....
You don’t necessarily need to use the pump header. Just need to use a header that supports PWM control.
Oh also can it hurt your water pump by having the voltages/pump speed changing a lot?
PMW pumps use pulse width modulation to control speed. Not voltage so they’re fine.
Why do you want to blow hot air through your radiator?
The mistake your making is checking your water temp very shortly after starting the stress test. The water loop will get hotter over time, kind of like a kettle, once you introduce heat, it isn't instantly boiled. And if it's in an enclosed case, eventually, all the hot air inside it will decrease the radiators cooling efficiency, also leading to water temp rise.. key is not to be prematurely checking. Let it run for an hour or so
Thank you
Fans do nothing when it's already 100 degrees in your house.
Not true. Air movement still helps to keep things cool. Not ideal though.
@@boostedmedia Yes, sorry I don't know why I wrote that. Must have had a brain fart earlier, lol
The temperatures you quote in this are super inaccurately measured.
Those thermometers don't work how they're marketed to. It's not the laser measuring the temperature. That's just for aiming. You'll see in the end that it has a cone, that cone defines the divergence angle of the area it measures the average temperature over. So the further away you are from the part, the bigger the area it's measuring the average temperature of. They also don't give accurate readings on glass or metal. Mainly just accurate for plastic or flesh.
Always get it as close to the thing as you can.
If you're trying to measure something smaller than the cone then you've got little chance of accuracy.
If it's metal or glass then put some PVC tape on it and measure the temperature of the tape for a more accurate reading.
hey John Krasinsky, whats up
yeah you dont want the air leaving the radiator going into the case, moister is bad, i need a speed controler for a water pump
Hot air is lighter than cold air thats why top fans is more effective to elimate hot temperature.
Yep
need to split my arctic aio fans from pump :D
Adding fans is not the case 😏
Jesus loves you
Output from GPU 26.7C -> RAD -> Input to CPU 28 ... so your radiators heating the water? ... no, the IR temp tool your using to measure does not work on reflective surfaces. This video is nonsense :D
I thought you were going to show us something cool, instead of just talking about it.
you ask me to sub and like and i havent seen the video yet so based on that i wont like or sub even though what you said is useful and i do like what you do . i dont like that people ask for payment before a job is done and basicly thats what youtubers are doing by asking up front for subs and likes .... why dont you guys wait and ask when people have seen what you have to offer and most of the time you dont have to cause if what your doing is good then people know how to like and how to sub .. duno to many people that dont know how youtube works . please make a change for all mankind
Lol! I suggested to subscribe at the beginning of the video so you don’t miss the future updates on the subject. Only about 3% of my views come from subs so I honestly couldn’t care less of you subscribe or not. You’ll find it’s the same for most tech channels.
I find it hilarious that you consider a subscription to be “payment”. Payment would be becoming a patron or making a donation. But literally nobody ever does that because the world is full of entitled people like you who expect everything for free.