MLV works on the principle of reflecting the sound back where it came from. So, the inside of your DIY speaker will become an echo chamber if you don't add absorption material on top of MLV layer
I used a ton of this stuff when installing audiometric testing chambers. Primarily on floors. One image shown here is actually the padding we also used under the carpet, and not MLV. MLV is what you want. It's quite thin and... 1. SUPER expensive. 2. SUPER heavy.
Is there a reason I can't find anyone talking about attaching MLV to a door? I'm trying to improve the soundproofing of a home office from family noise elsewhere in the house, the door is the biggest culprit. Weatherstripping has helped, I'm not changing the door. MLV seems like a option to add mass to the door and is neater than hanging a blanket (I don't want to have to remove/ walk through a blanket each time i enter or exit the room)
I planning to do this to my basement interior hollow core door. I used 1/2" birch plywood on the noisy side of the door and weather stripping. Very good results so far. I plan on add 1/8" MLV over the plywood, or to the other side of the door, but I want to be sure it doesn't get too heavy and break the hinges, only 2 of them on there.
From what I understand, mass is what actually soundproofs and absorption (rockwool, etc.) only does so much (Plus helps with echo). What I don't quite get yet is how mass actually soundproofs. I keep reading about "blocking" sound waves. Or hindering transmission. But doesn't that mean it has to absorb sound in some way? It can't just be reflecting the sound till infinity inside the room. Same thing with mass loaded vinyl - It's very heavy, so it's good for actual soundproofing. But it's also flexible, unlike drywall. How is it actually blocking sound getting to the outside? I keep hearing that soundproofing with mass is a different thing than absorption. Also - When looking at sound proofing drawings, you often see (from the outside to the inside) : A layer of rockwool, then an air gap, another layer of rockwool, another air gap, then 2 drywall layers with a limp layer like green glue inbetween. Why is it in that order with the drywall part being on the inside of the room. Doesn't that mean it's echoing like crazy and you have to get more absorbers? Why not do it the other way around, with the rockwool layers on the inside and drywall on the outside?
Why does MLV smell so bad? How long does MLV off gas? Years? Just had my bedroom wall soundproofed with MLV because of noisy neighbors, and just got to warn folks, the fumes and offgassing have made the room unusable. It's been several weeks and even with the windows open, fan blowing, and air purifier that filters out VOC, the smell is overpowering. On the bright side, I can't hear the neighbors. On the downside, I'm now sleeping in the living room.
My project I skipped a step I have frame on existing wall rock wool insulation and two layers of sheet rock..No mlv it’s ok for now. But is there a way to add mlv in the mix without tearing down what I built..
I can get hold of used vinyl flooring for kitchens for free. I know it is not quite the same but surely this would be an excellent substitute for this product if on a budget?
Have you ever tried using it on the *exterior* of a house? E.g. take off the siding, staple it over the house wrap, then replace the siding? I never see anyone talking about this, even though it would seem to be by far the least invasive way to insulate from exterior sound.
I want to roll MLV around a rod-shaped linear actuator. Would I be correct in assuming that the more layers wrapped around the rod-shaped actuator, the better the sound proofing? Would I be correct in assuming the the improvement in sound proofing would be in a linear relationship to the number of layers? Thanks!
My recording studio desk is big and it gives me reflection because the dubbing room glass is close to the desk. Does the MLV solve the problem ? or is there any other way where the reflection will go and we do not have to tamper the desk ? Thanks in advance
Very informative video. My bedroom shares a wall with my kitchen and the fridge noise is measurably about the same on the bedroom side of the wall as it is in the kitchen near the fridge (about 42 db). Would installing mass loaded vinyl directly to the drywall behind the fridge be worth considering? It would be hidden by the fridge. The fridge is walled in on the sides and above. I could put the mass loaded vinyl above as well. A bigger project would be to tear out the drywall on the bedroom side and install soundproofing inside the whole wall, but I'd like to see if a simpler solution would work. Thanks!
Trying some MLV behind the fridge wouldn’t hurt, it might absorb a bit of the vibrations but you will still hear the fridge because you would have to cover the entire wall with MLV to really drown out the fridge. Adding just a piece behind the fridge will help but might not be enough soundproofing for you to be satisfied.
I am having a humming noise coming from the elevator in my building, would that vinyl help with the humming noise if I put it on the wall inside my flat?
Hello, thank you for the great video and info. There is a lot of traffic noise coming through the walls in bedroom could I install the MLV on the existing walls and put Sheetrock on top and paint?
Hello. :) Thank you for great videoes! I watched most of your videos about existing walls, yet as I share pure concrete walls and floors with noisy neighbors, and only have about 3cm depth available on the walls for a stud wall, I was wondering if installing MLV directly on the concrete with screw fastening, would be worth it, compared to the cost. 1a. Do I risk creating a mini 'drum' effect if I install it directly to the concrete wall? 1b. If I install a drywall directly on top of the MVL, could that counteract and create a drum effect? 2. On the concrete floors are hardwood installed (50+ years old). I have put down thick wool carpets with sound dampening foam on the backside. Yet sadly the noise and vibratio Cost vs. effect: would it be worth it to install MLV under the carpets? 3. The ceiling wouldn't have any installed due to rules of the apartment company. Cost vs. effect - is it worth it to only install MLV on direct shared surfaces (1 wall and the floor) in the living and bedroom that are the most noisy rooms? Thank you for our knowledge sharing and great videoes! 🎉
I have a 8 x10 party wall which I share with the neighbor. I can hear mostly conversations from my neighbor. I wanted to know if I can add MLV + GreenGlue + quiet rock drywall to it to reduce the sound passing through it. One way to reduce the sound is to do drywall demolition, I don't want to do that as its expensive and a lot of effort.
Yes it will help, but I would not demolish the existing wall. The cheapest way would be to simply cover the shared wall with 2 layers of 5/8" drywall and seal it all with stretch calk. If you have more money to spend you could put MLV over top of the party wall, then the 5/8"drywall over top of that. That should block out 95% of the conversations. Keep in mind it probably will do that much for loud low frequency music. To reduce low frequencies you would need to build a wall over the wall with 2-3" gap in between and a bit more mass. My brother has been a contractor for 25 years, in his experience Green Glue is all hype, overrated and a total waste of money.
Can you advise what to do about power sockets, light switches or lights hanging from ceiling? Is it install around the outside or use green glue? Thank you.
Great video...I have brick walls that let in a lot of noise from neighbors. Would MLV be a good solution? better yet, Can MLV be mounted to brick walls? Thank you
Yes, but it won't do much. What you really need to do is build another wall over the shared brick wall with 2-3" of space in between. The wall cannot touch the brick wall in any way. The wall is constructed with 5/8" drywall, Rockwool in the stud cavities, 5/8" over that, MLV over that, then another drywall layer over top of that. The entire thing needs to be sealed air tight with acoustic/stretch calk. This will provide MUCH more sound control than MLV on top of the brick wall.
Thats great so i have no option in sound proofing my neighbors cause i live in a rental and the wall has a panel not allowing me to have things fluch against the wall
I want to soundproof my condo without ripping down the existing drywall. Would hanging MLV + GreenGlue + quiet rock drywall over the existing drywall help much? How about with low frequency noises like an AC condenser on the roof or my neighbors washing machine through the wall? I can also hear their voices.
Would it make sense to use the mlv as spacers ( perhaps 2 or 3 layers thick, in 4 inch wide strips 4 or 8 feet long that the dry wall screws would penetrate.) between layers of 5/8inch drywall? The mlv would make a dead air space between 2 sheets of dry wall and reduce vibrations. Hopefully. Or would 1/8 inch cork do as well as a spacer? (The idea being to keep the 2 dry wall layers separated, to lessen vibration transmission from one sheet of dry wall to another.) Green glue is doable, but the expense is pretty wild! Comments, please. Thanks in advance.
I did some DIY experiments recently with MLV and cork. MLV works better as a sound blocker, but was even better when combined with 1/2" cork sheets. Even helped attenuate the lower frequencies.
I’m looking for sound deadening for my baby’s room in an apartment. We don’t own and can’t move. I’m unsure how we could utilize MLV to keep the neighbor’s from waking up my baby. Your previous videos made it seem like I would just have to hang it on a wall. This updated video makes it seem that hanging it on a wall is pointless. We would need to nail it tightly to the wall. Is that correct? Any advice, please!?!
I live next to a house that has been converted into flats. Each of those flats have their kitchens built against the party wall between our house & next door. This isn't a problem except with our main bedroom. The flat the other side of the wall has a fridge or frezzer that constantly emits a low hum. This is obviously a problem at night as this constant low hum is deafening. Would MLV mechnically attached to my side of the party wall which will then be finished with a stud wall (allowing for a inch gap between the MLV & the stud wall) infilled with sound deadning rockwool minimise this low hum, or would that setup be better suited to higher frequency noises? Your advice would be appreciated.
Thanks for the videos, there are great! Would you install MLS over dry wall, from outside ? Thinking to do it in one of the walls in the garage. Project for Music purposes. Cheers
OK what I don't understand is let's say you have a home theater room and you simply want to get the sticky type and put it on your wall directly on your wall sticking to the wall as a flat surface on your wall with that night still be decent, sound blocking and absorption
I’m looking for a sound proofing mat I can put on my vinyl flooring. I record with a microphone on a mic stand. I need something around 36x36 to comfortably go under the stand. Do you have any recommendations?
I am thinking of using Sonapan boards on my ceiling fastened to the floor joists with a 2lb MLV on the Sonapan and then 5/8 drywall. From that I will suspend a drop ceiling so when I install LED pots I have no penetration through the ceiling assembly. I'm wondering how you think it will work MLV between Sonapan and 5/8 drywall. I will be putting sound and safe I In the joist cavities. You never talk about Sonapan, possibly because it is made in Canada?
We plan on converting our 2nd floor to a rental space. We will pull up the floors and rock wool the space, and screw down the subfloor to eliminate squeaking. How would you recommend we use mlv here? Thanks. Love your videos fyi
You sound like you did 15 minutes of research and are about to waste a bunch of money. Check out Home RenoVision DIY for a bunch of videos on what actually works in soundproofing.
I came for a video on Mass loaded Vinyl and he references 2 guys named Matt. My questions are "Who are the Matt's and how can they help with sound deadening"???
I have a finished attic that I am planning on converting to a theater/game room. I want to try and mitigate some of the noise to the rooms below. Only the floor has finished rooms below. 3 of the 4 walls are exterior walls with insulation and the 4th wall is just unfinished attic space on the other side. There already is fiberglass insulation under the subfloor. I was going to add a layer of MLV on top of the sub floor, then a thick carpet pad and carpet. I was wondering if it worth it to also add two layers of OSB on top of the MLV and use GG in between the two layers of OSB. Or should I just stick with the MLV and thick carpet pad.
@@michellem5647 That's very unfortunate Michelle. It can get costly but it gets cheaper if you buy in bulk. Just remember, as I said in my video, they come in one single roll that can weigh hundreds of pounds, best to have a helper. Best of luck.
I keep seeing MLV installed directly on studs then resilient channel, then drywall.... and all your videos say apply directly inbetween two drywall sheets... which is correct?
Would this be suitable for a small studio apartment where one wall is shared with a neighbor's kitchen? Their cabinets are against my wall and I hear every rattle and door shutting! I can't afford to lose any space, so could I just stick this onto the wall like wallpaper? Would it help?
You can do it certainly but it wouldn't be enough. The noises from the kitchen are impact mostly and not just airborne (things hitting hard surfaces that travel to your side, instead of noises that travel through air). So that means the need to decouple a new mass from the existing connecting wall. If you reinforce your wall that helps for sure but that is making that mass (that wall) stronger. There is a limit to that. That's is why a new space (air gap) is needed and a new wall (mass) be added, that is the basic principle of Mass-Air-Mass. If you want help in choosing materials (and saving money), getting options that are not permanent (many people renting can't install new walls, etc.) and learning about each option for a given space (how much space it takes to get greater results), I offer consulting. Cheers
What temperatures would MLV have to be exposed to for a long period of time in order for the plasticizers in it to ignite? I've looked everywhere for an autoignition temperature for mass loaded vinyl and I can't find anything. One spec sheet just listed it as "not applicable". Asking because I live in Phoenix and want to use it over some windows in my home studio but also don't want to set me house on fire when the summer comes XD It'd be on the inside of a window that has a shade on it so I'm probably overthinking it but more info always helps I supppose
Rule of thumb with MLV is the drywall will be completely engulfed before the MLV is showing signs of damage due to fire. Some use this as a fire barrier between walls because it will take much longer to ignite compared to the rest of the material on the wall which could give you extra time to get to safety.
thx for video, My condo requires a IIC of 55 if replacing carpet with hard surface flooring. If I used LVP/SPC as flooring (I assume its better choice for sound?), would a thick rubber underlayment OR_ the MLV U speak of be better to achieve IIC 55? Or is it similar? Just dont want the sound engineer to come out and waste$ if I dont have the best underlayment to test. thanks for your input if you can
Thin AND Effective makes MLV very attractive. Is self-adhesive MLV a Renter-Friendly application? As long as it’s not inhaled, calcium carbonate [aka chalk] is cheap +innocuous. Shouldn’t Calcium Carbonate MLV be more affordable? How does MLV compare to Cork? Must MLV be black? Seems like it could be as colourful as Marmoleum, No? Has soundproofing effectiveness of polystyrene SIP panels been investigated?
What do you think if I will cut square 1x1 meter and will glue with soundproof glue to the ceiling and after paint white.I think there could be a result to hear less neighbours upstairs .
Not unless it covers the entire ceiling. Also, the glue would not be sufficient to hold the MLV in place. You would have to nail or staple it into the ceiling. The MLV would definitely work better layer on the flooring above.
so could this be used on a completely open gap with maybe something holding it in place and blocking sound? my room divider doesnt reach the ceiling for some ungodly reason and all the light and noise from my roommate come into my room. gap is 118" length x 20.25" height x 3.62" width
MLV works best when is stable, inside the wall or glued/nailed to the wall. The key is to have he entire wall covered. Any gaps will drastically lessen the effectiveness of MLV.
If I ever find MLV for my garden fence -- does it go on the outside or inside? On your photo it seems to point to the inside of the garden, other photos I have seen had looked to me like the outside. Does it matter??
You mention to install MLV between the drywall but both video showing the installation shows staples to the timber frame. It seems a lot easier to staple on the timber frame rather than between drywall and it is hard to understand why it would make a difference to sound blocking if install between the timber frame and the drywall or between the 2 drywall. Could you explain? What about installing with resilient channel? It seems that if the MLV is installed on the timber frame, then the resilient channel can be installed on top of the MLV and then the 2 layer of drywall. I have read resilient channel system failing and I suppose the weight of the MLV if install between the 2 layer of drywall can be a problem. Thank you for your thoughts on this and the theory. Is there ant tests which would have done showing what is best?
You can go either way. Most people with an open wall would suggest MLV on studs and then a layer of drywall. I would go with the suggestion I made though for better results. 😊
How successful would it be attached directly brick (presume) wall plastered over but just using MLV only. Would it successfully block out noise and how effectively.
Brick walls tend to not be fully flat. I would put some studs over it, hang the MLV, then 5/8" drywall over that. Make sure the wall is totally sealed.
I live in a building condominium, im planning to DIY sound proofing my wall since i can hear people talking in another unit. Is 1.5 inches is enough where i dont have much space, MLV + Drywall (2x).
It definitely could work. It’s hard to say without the specifics but the MLV will not only block noise but will also absorb vibrations. Best of luck and let’s me know how it turns out. Make sure there are no gaps between mlv sheets.
@@soundproofguide i want to install a water pump insids my house ,placing it inside a kitchen wood cabinet, is it enough to stick the MLV sheets to the wood or should i consider adding another layer of wood or dry wall above them? What if i made a sound insulating box for the pump ?which material shoyld i use? Currently i am not abls to find it in my country .i may depend on rock wool.
You could but they wouldn’t work as well as acoustic panels made with a wood frame and insulation inside. MLV does absorb “some” sound wave but will deflect most of them due to its flat and semi hard surface.
Yes, but you're going to need a lot more than that. You're probably getting lots of vibration too. Low frequency is a tough one. More mass is the key. In most cases you will only be able to reduce the noise by 50%. Some jerkoff used to live next door who sometimes played loud music with bass blasting. He was a renter who was high on drugs most of the time, so reasoning with him did not work. Calling the police didn't really do anything, so I took him to court, that eventually forced him to move... thank god.
Hey, how's it going ma friend. Question for ya soundproof wise. I think i live with two roommates and one roommate are rooms next door to one another and from i have noticed when i lightly test it sometimes that the wall separating our rooms appears to be i think a bit follow or hollow enough to certain extent for that matter anyways. But anywho... that being said, was wondering what could be the best path to go for best results for making my space a bit more private type sanctuary in a sense.
Along with noise or convos going on whatever etc in there room that stays in there room and same for mine. Wether gaming, chatting on phone with so and so etc an on stuff like that.👌 Oh lastly before i forgot to mention this as well my entertainment setup faces the wall that separates our rooms to add that factor into the situation as well with the rest of all that i have said my comment here. Cheers, thanks! 🙂😎🙏🤙👊
Hey sorry for missing this comment. So you’re living in an apartment where you can’t really make any permanent alterations to make the room more soundproof? If this is the case then there’s not much you can do because adding panels on the wall will not block noise and hanging mass loaded vinyl floor to ceiling will not get you the results you’re looking for. Other than ear plugs and white noise machines, there’s not much you can do if you can’t add mass to the wall. You could add a door sweep to cover the gap at the bottom of the door. This would block a lot of noise if it’s coming from the hallway. Watch one of my videos oh how to soundproof a door; this is something you can do because adding a door sweep is not permanent and you can take it with you to your next residence. Hope this helps. Best of luck.
No not an apartment or more town house complex kind of thing i ment or must have not been the most clear about that in my question to you. My bad on that if that's the case 😌🤔🤷♂️
Yea it would! I would do one layer of the 2lb MLV before having two layers of 1lb MLV but if you double up the 2lb MLV you should have better noise reduction.
It’s because they come in a roll so it’s much easier to install vertically. Gravity is your friend 😉 It does not HAVE to be installed vertically but it’s just easier.
@@soundproofguide Got you! Thank you so so much! i had a contractor install MLV and he went from vertical to horizontal in the middle of his project not sure why 😂
The exhaust noise is treated well, but the plastic body of the vacuum vibrates at the frequency of the motor and transmits noise that way. The motor is decoupled with rubber mounts, but some noise energy is still transferred to the body of the vacuum
Thanks great video. I have a laminate flooring in my bedroom and I hear a constant vibrational noise from downstairs (like a pump of sorts running). I can't alter the floor. Would this be safe to lay over the laminate floor and cover with a big rug and be useful in reducing the sound ? Also would the material of the mlv damage the surface of the laminate? Thanks for your advice much appreciated
what you do and will work 100% you put it under the laminate you use the MLV as the laminate underlay, you lift the laminate if its click (locks together) use a sticker and number the laminate or pencil and write the numbers so you know where they need to go back down I would lay it then put the laminate back over it and fit a carpet over the laminate get someone to fit the carpet with grippers and they will tuck it in with a carpet stretcher for you
i live in the UK carpet and laminate fitting is not that expensive under 100 dollars 4mx4m room more like 60 dollars its well worth you doing if ypou can afford it dont put it over the top of the laminate for the saving of 100 dollars its not that hard to DIY but its not much to have someone do a proper job of it either wat dont put it on top of laminate
Vinyl is toxic when temperatures are hot, if the vinyl was replaced with a nontoxic, none volatile organic compound material I may be interested in using it. I installed it on a friend's condominium and I was not impressed with with the sound deadening, from indoors I could still hear voices and cars driving by.
Interesting. Thanks for your feedback. The only time that this type of vinyl I was talking about is toxic when exposed to heat is when it’s actually hot enough to burn, like a house fire, even then it will take a while to begin to burn which could give people more time to get out of the house safely. I do understand your concerns however. Thanks and great comment!
This channel went form being a practical soundproof guide, to you using soundproof topics as an excuse to make UA-cam videos. And, now you have so many videos that give nothing but academic information, that they're almost useless for people actually building a soundproof room. You've got a good channel, but I've been doing this for 30yrs (in one fashion or another) and not once has someone asked me for the MSDS of MLV. *Is it practical, and affordable, and how to hang it....that's what people want to know.* You have so many videos giving winded information like this, that it's becoming pointless to even click on them anymore. At least put something in the titled that reflects what this video ISN'T, so the viewer can move on to something more appropriate for what they're doing.
It's all about the $$$. Also, some of the advice he gives is totally incorrect. YT seems to love him though. Just type in "soundproofing" into the YT search and his vids come up before all others.
Speaking of multiple uses it works well for lining the insides of DIY speakers to reduce the vibration of the outside of the cabinet
Yes, great tip!
MLV works on the principle of reflecting the sound back where it came from. So, the inside of your DIY speaker will become an echo chamber if you don't add absorption material on top of MLV layer
Thank you for foreseeing my fireproofing concerns.
I used a ton of this stuff when installing audiometric testing chambers. Primarily on floors. One image shown here is actually the padding we also used under the carpet, and not MLV. MLV is what you want. It's quite thin and...
1. SUPER expensive. 2. SUPER heavy.
Is there a reason I can't find anyone talking about attaching MLV to a door? I'm trying to improve the soundproofing of a home office from family noise elsewhere in the house, the door is the biggest culprit. Weatherstripping has helped, I'm not changing the door. MLV seems like a option to add mass to the door and is neater than hanging a blanket (I don't want to have to remove/ walk through a blanket each time i enter or exit the room)
I planning to do this to my basement interior hollow core door. I used 1/2" birch plywood on the noisy side of the door and weather stripping. Very good results so far. I plan on add 1/8" MLV over the plywood, or to the other side of the door, but I want to be sure it doesn't get too heavy and break the hinges, only 2 of them on there.
From what I understand, mass is what actually soundproofs and absorption (rockwool, etc.) only does so much (Plus helps with echo).
What I don't quite get yet is how mass actually soundproofs. I keep reading about "blocking" sound waves. Or hindering transmission. But doesn't that mean it has to absorb sound in some way? It can't just be reflecting the sound till infinity inside the room.
Same thing with mass loaded vinyl - It's very heavy, so it's good for actual soundproofing. But it's also flexible, unlike drywall. How is it actually blocking sound getting to the outside?
I keep hearing that soundproofing with mass is a different thing than absorption.
Also - When looking at sound proofing drawings, you often see (from the outside to the inside) : A layer of rockwool, then an air gap, another layer of rockwool, another air gap, then 2 drywall layers with a limp layer like green glue inbetween.
Why is it in that order with the drywall part being on the inside of the room. Doesn't that mean it's echoing like crazy and you have to get more absorbers? Why not do it the other way around, with the rockwool layers on the inside and drywall on the outside?
Why does MLV smell so bad? How long does MLV off gas? Years? Just had my bedroom wall soundproofed with MLV because of noisy neighbors, and just got to warn folks, the fumes and offgassing have made the room unusable. It's been several weeks and even with the windows open, fan blowing, and air purifier that filters out VOC, the smell is overpowering. On the bright side, I can't hear the neighbors. On the downside, I'm now sleeping in the living room.
Did you put drywall over the mass loaded vinyl?
If you paint it with multiple coats of latex paint, that could potentially seal in the smell
Mine doesn't smell at all. Have a roll here and never smelled a thing.
Different manufactures of MLV. Some smell, some don't.
Imagine the toxic materials the Chinese infuse this with
Do you have a video on how to sandwich the vinyl in drywall?
Not really but I’ll look in my catalog and see what I have. Or at least where I can point you to
Article with Many links and product information - soundproofguide.com/mass-loaded-vinyl-mlv/
My project I skipped a step I have frame on existing wall rock wool insulation and two layers of sheet rock..No mlv it’s ok for now. But is there a way to add mlv in the mix without tearing down what I built..
I can get hold of used vinyl flooring for kitchens for free. I know it is not quite the same but surely this would be an excellent substitute for this product if on a budget?
Not the same at all and probably will do nothing for sound control.
Have you ever tried using it on the *exterior* of a house? E.g. take off the siding, staple it over the house wrap, then replace the siding? I never see anyone talking about this, even though it would seem to be by far the least invasive way to insulate from exterior sound.
Unless you have sealant in between the seams and make sure there no gaps, I can’t see it working that well.
I want to roll MLV around a rod-shaped linear actuator. Would I be correct in assuming that the more layers wrapped around the rod-shaped actuator, the better the sound proofing? Would I be correct in assuming the the improvement in sound proofing would be in a linear relationship to the number of layers? Thanks!
My recording studio desk is big and it gives me reflection because the dubbing room glass is close to the desk. Does the MLV solve the problem ? or is there any other way where the reflection will go and we do not have to tamper the desk ?
Thanks in advance
Very informative video. My bedroom shares a wall with my kitchen and the fridge noise is measurably about the same on the bedroom side of the wall as it is in the kitchen near the fridge (about 42 db). Would installing mass loaded vinyl directly to the drywall behind the fridge be worth considering? It would be hidden by the fridge. The fridge is walled in on the sides and above. I could put the mass loaded vinyl above as well. A bigger project would be to tear out the drywall on the bedroom side and install soundproofing inside the whole wall, but I'd like to see if a simpler solution would work. Thanks!
Trying some MLV behind the fridge wouldn’t hurt, it might absorb a bit of the vibrations but you will still hear the fridge because you would have to cover the entire wall with MLV to really drown out the fridge. Adding just a piece behind the fridge will help but might not be enough soundproofing for you to be satisfied.
I am having a humming noise coming from the elevator in my building, would that vinyl help with the humming noise if I put it on the wall inside my flat?
Hello, thank you for the great video and info. There is a lot of traffic noise coming through the walls in bedroom could I install the MLV on the existing walls and put Sheetrock on top and paint?
Hello. :)
Thank you for great videoes!
I watched most of your videos about existing walls, yet as I share pure concrete walls and floors with noisy neighbors, and only have about 3cm depth available on the walls for a stud wall, I was wondering if installing MLV directly on the concrete with screw fastening, would be worth it, compared to the cost.
1a. Do I risk creating a mini 'drum' effect if I install it directly to the concrete wall?
1b. If I install a drywall directly on top of the MVL, could that counteract and create a drum effect?
2. On the concrete floors are hardwood installed (50+ years old). I have put down thick wool carpets with sound dampening foam on the backside.
Yet sadly the noise and vibratio
Cost vs. effect: would it be worth it to install MLV under the carpets?
3. The ceiling wouldn't have any installed due to rules of the apartment company.
Cost vs. effect - is it worth it to only install MLV on direct shared surfaces (1 wall and the floor) in the living and bedroom that are the most noisy rooms?
Thank you for our knowledge sharing and great videoes! 🎉
I have a 8 x10 party wall which I share with the neighbor. I can hear mostly conversations from my neighbor. I wanted to know if I can add MLV + GreenGlue + quiet rock drywall to it to reduce the sound passing through it.
One way to reduce the sound is to do drywall demolition, I don't want to do that as its expensive and a lot of effort.
Yes, this would definitely help! Let me know how it turns out!
Did you finally did it ?
Yes it will help, but I would not demolish the existing wall. The cheapest way would be to simply cover the shared wall with 2 layers of 5/8" drywall and seal it all with stretch calk. If you have more money to spend you could put MLV over top of the party wall, then the 5/8"drywall over top of that. That should block out 95% of the conversations. Keep in mind it probably will do that much for loud low frequency music. To reduce low frequencies you would need to build a wall over the wall with 2-3" gap in between and a bit more mass.
My brother has been a contractor for 25 years, in his experience Green Glue is all hype, overrated and a total waste of money.
any results?
Can you advise what to do about power sockets, light switches or lights hanging from ceiling? Is it install around the outside or use green glue? Thank you.
There's putty for that
Great video...I have brick walls that let in a lot of noise from neighbors. Would MLV be a good solution? better yet, Can MLV be mounted to brick walls? Thank you
Yes but idk if you'd want just a wall of MLV
Yes, but it won't do much. What you really need to do is build another wall over the shared brick wall with 2-3" of space in between. The wall cannot touch the brick wall in any way. The wall is constructed with 5/8" drywall, Rockwool in the stud cavities, 5/8" over that, MLV over that, then another drywall layer over top of that. The entire thing needs to be sealed air tight with acoustic/stretch calk. This will provide MUCH more sound control than MLV on top of the brick wall.
Thats great so i have no option in sound proofing my neighbors cause i live in a rental and the wall has a panel not allowing me to have things fluch against the wall
I want to soundproof my condo without ripping down the existing drywall. Would hanging MLV + GreenGlue + quiet rock drywall over the existing drywall help much? How about with low frequency noises like an AC condenser on the roof or my neighbors washing machine through the wall? I can also hear their voices.
Yes this would definitely help! Just make sure you leave no gaps between the sheets of mass loaded vinyl. Best of luck!!
green glue is hoax. Find more at acoustic fields channel.
What did you end up doing? I am in a similar situation.
Would it make sense to use the mlv as spacers ( perhaps 2 or 3 layers thick, in 4 inch wide strips 4 or 8 feet long that the dry wall screws would penetrate.) between layers of 5/8inch drywall? The mlv would make a dead air space between 2 sheets of dry wall and reduce vibrations. Hopefully.
Or would 1/8 inch cork do as well as a spacer? (The idea being to keep the 2 dry wall layers separated, to lessen vibration transmission from one sheet of dry wall to another.)
Green glue is doable, but the expense is pretty wild!
Comments, please.
Thanks in advance.
The cork is a great idea. Cork is more of an absorber. It should reduce vibrations better than the MLV.
I did some DIY experiments recently with MLV and cork. MLV works better as a sound blocker, but was even better when combined with 1/2" cork sheets. Even helped attenuate the lower frequencies.
I’m looking for sound deadening for my baby’s room in an apartment. We don’t own and can’t move. I’m unsure how we could utilize MLV to keep the neighbor’s from waking up my baby. Your previous videos made it seem like I would just have to hang it on a wall. This updated video makes it seem that hanging it on a wall is pointless. We would need to nail it tightly to the wall. Is that correct? Any advice, please!?!
I live next to a house that has been converted into flats. Each of those flats have their kitchens built against the party wall between our house & next door. This isn't a problem except with our main bedroom. The flat the other side of the wall has a fridge or frezzer that constantly emits a low hum. This is obviously a problem at night as this constant low hum is deafening. Would MLV mechnically attached to my side of the party wall which will then be finished with a stud wall (allowing for a inch gap between the MLV & the stud wall) infilled with sound deadning rockwool minimise this low hum, or would that setup be better suited to higher frequency noises?
Your advice would be appreciated.
Thanks for the videos, there are great! Would you install MLS over dry wall, from outside ? Thinking to do it in one of the walls in the garage. Project for Music purposes. Cheers
OK what I don't understand is let's say you have a home theater room and you simply want to get the sticky type and put it on your wall directly on your wall sticking to the wall as a flat surface on your wall with that night still be decent, sound blocking and absorption
The sticky type is used mostly in cars. I’d only buy that type if I was using it around water pipes.
I’m looking for a sound proofing mat I can put on my vinyl flooring. I record with a microphone on a mic stand. I need something around 36x36 to comfortably go under the stand. Do you have any recommendations?
I am thinking of using Sonapan boards on my ceiling fastened to the floor joists with a 2lb MLV on the Sonapan and then 5/8 drywall. From that I will suspend a drop ceiling so when I install LED pots I have no penetration through the ceiling assembly.
I'm wondering how you think it will work MLV between Sonapan and 5/8 drywall. I will be putting sound and safe I
In the joist cavities.
You never talk about Sonapan, possibly because it is made in Canada?
Hi! I would to add MLV to my new wood fence i am about to add... but how do you prevent rotting from water and wood get trapped outside?
We plan on converting our 2nd floor to a rental space. We will pull up the floors and rock wool the space, and screw down the subfloor to eliminate squeaking. How would you recommend we use mlv here? Thanks. Love your videos fyi
You sound like you did 15 minutes of research and are about to waste a bunch of money. Check out Home RenoVision DIY for a bunch of videos on what actually works in soundproofing.
I came for a video on Mass loaded Vinyl and he references 2 guys named Matt.
My questions are "Who are the Matt's and how can they help with sound deadening"???
I have a finished attic that I am planning on converting to a theater/game room. I want to try and mitigate some of the noise to the rooms below.
Only the floor has finished rooms below. 3 of the 4 walls are exterior walls with insulation and the 4th wall is just unfinished attic space on the other side.
There already is fiberglass insulation under the subfloor. I was going to add a layer of MLV on top of the sub floor, then a thick carpet pad and carpet. I was wondering if it worth it to also add two layers of OSB on top of the MLV and use GG in between the two layers of OSB. Or should I just stick with the MLV and thick carpet pad.
$130 for one 4x10 sheet is rough. Considering I need dozens of it.
It is, but it does work 😊
Omg seriously? I need to soundproof both my bedrooms in my townhome bc my neighbors are loud jerks
@@michellem5647 That's very unfortunate Michelle. It can get costly but it gets cheaper if you buy in bulk. Just remember, as I said in my video, they come in one single roll that can weigh hundreds of pounds, best to have a helper. Best of luck.
@@soundproofguide im going to hire some to do it…
@@michellem5647did you finally do it?
I keep seeing MLV installed directly on studs then resilient channel, then drywall.... and all your videos say apply directly inbetween two drywall sheets... which is correct?
In my experience, sandwiched MLV (between 2 layers of drywall) is better than hanging MLV on studs.
Agreed! 👍
@@soundproofguide Ok, so insulation, then resilient channel, then 5/8 sheet, then MLV, then another 5/8 sheet?
Would this be suitable for a small studio apartment where one wall is shared with a neighbor's kitchen? Their cabinets are against my wall and I hear every rattle and door shutting! I can't afford to lose any space, so could I just stick this onto the wall like wallpaper? Would it help?
You can do it certainly but it wouldn't be enough. The noises from the kitchen are impact mostly and not just airborne (things hitting hard surfaces that travel to your side, instead of noises that travel through air). So that means the need to decouple a new mass from the existing connecting wall. If you reinforce your wall that helps for sure but that is making that mass (that wall) stronger. There is a limit to that. That's is why a new space (air gap) is needed and a new wall (mass) be added, that is the basic principle of Mass-Air-Mass. If you want help in choosing materials (and saving money), getting options that are not permanent (many people renting can't install new walls, etc.) and learning about each option for a given space (how much space it takes to get greater results), I offer consulting. Cheers
Can it be placed under vinyl flooring?
can you pin it over a window somehow to minimize sound from the outside ?
What temperatures would MLV have to be exposed to for a long period of time in order for the plasticizers in it to ignite? I've looked everywhere for an autoignition temperature for mass loaded vinyl and I can't find anything. One spec sheet just listed it as "not applicable". Asking because I live in Phoenix and want to use it over some windows in my home studio but also don't want to set me house on fire when the summer comes XD
It'd be on the inside of a window that has a shade on it so I'm probably overthinking it but more info always helps I supppose
Rule of thumb with MLV is the drywall will be completely engulfed before the MLV is showing signs of damage due to fire. Some use this as a fire barrier between walls because it will take much longer to ignite compared to the rest of the material on the wall which could give you extra time to get to safety.
thx for video, My condo requires a IIC of 55 if replacing carpet with hard surface flooring. If I used LVP/SPC as flooring (I assume its better choice for sound?), would a thick rubber underlayment OR_ the MLV U speak of be better to achieve IIC 55? Or is it similar? Just dont want the sound engineer to come out and waste$ if I dont have the best underlayment to test. thanks for your input if you can
Thin AND Effective makes MLV very attractive. Is self-adhesive MLV a Renter-Friendly application? As long as it’s not inhaled, calcium carbonate [aka chalk] is cheap +innocuous. Shouldn’t Calcium Carbonate MLV be more affordable? How does MLV compare to Cork? Must MLV be black? Seems like it could be as colourful as Marmoleum, No? Has soundproofing effectiveness of polystyrene SIP panels been investigated?
Cork is a better absorber than MLV. I'm about to start a basement project using cork + MLV + 5/8" drywall.
Thanks. How to order in Switzerland? I can not find a good source. Any hints maybe?
What do you think if I will cut square 1x1 meter and will glue with soundproof glue to the ceiling and after paint white.I think there could be a result to hear less neighbours upstairs .
Not unless it covers the entire ceiling. Also, the glue would not be sufficient to hold the MLV in place. You would have to nail or staple it into the ceiling. The MLV would definitely work better layer on the flooring above.
@@soundproofguide yes entire ceiling,thanks for advice!
so could this be used on a completely open gap with maybe something holding it in place and blocking sound? my room divider doesnt reach the ceiling for some ungodly reason and all the light and noise from my roommate come into my room.
gap is 118" length x 20.25" height x 3.62" width
MLV works best when is stable, inside the wall or glued/nailed to the wall. The key is to have he entire wall covered. Any gaps will drastically lessen the effectiveness of MLV.
If I ever find MLV for my garden fence -- does it go on the outside or inside? On your photo it seems to point to the inside of the garden, other photos I have seen had looked to me like the outside. Does it matter??
Will it work for base sound from neighbours, im thinking 1/4 inch anything else i can do?
Can ceiling installed resilient channels support the weight of 2 layers of 5/8” drywall with 2lb MLV sandwiched between?
That's a great question. That's a LOT of weight, so I'd say no. I would install the MLV first and then the channel over top of the MLV.
Can you use this on the outside of a bedroom door? My roommate plays the radio all the time and I cant concentrate when im trying to study.
Should help. Also install weather stripping and make sure to seal any gaps air tight.
You mention to install MLV between the drywall but both video showing the installation shows staples to the timber frame. It seems a lot easier to staple on the timber frame rather than between drywall and it is hard to understand why it would make a difference to sound blocking if install between the timber frame and the drywall or between the 2 drywall. Could you explain? What about installing with resilient channel? It seems that if the MLV is installed on the timber frame, then the resilient channel can be installed on top of the MLV and then the 2 layer of drywall. I have read resilient channel system failing and I suppose the weight of the MLV if install between the 2 layer of drywall can be a problem. Thank you for your thoughts on this and the theory. Is there ant tests which would have done showing what is best?
You can go either way. Most people with an open wall would suggest MLV on studs and then a layer of drywall. I would go with the suggestion I made though for better results. 😊
Following. Have you installed MLV already to share the results? Did you install it between 2 layer-drywall without installing a new frame?
Can I hang thick MLV on a 10' chain link fence outdoors to block highway sound?
Yes you can. This is a good way to block some of the traffic noise!
What tape should I use when I need to wrap the pipes with MLV?
If you haven’t bought it yet, I’d use the self adhesive tape. Look for the type of sound deadener for vehicles. Sticks right to the pipe no problem
Can this is used in backyard to reduce traffic noise?
Yes! A lot of people place it right on the fence!
Is it okay to put up the mass loaded vinyl in small 1 X 1 foot sections or should i use bigger pieces so the sound has less spaces to seep though?
Bigger pieces are def better. Harder/heavier to install, but much less space for noise to seep though.
How successful would it be attached directly brick (presume) wall plastered over but just using MLV only. Would it successfully block out noise and how effectively.
Brick walls tend to not be fully flat. I would put some studs over it, hang the MLV, then 5/8" drywall over that. Make sure the wall is totally sealed.
I live in a building condominium, im planning to DIY sound proofing my wall since i can hear people talking in another unit.
Is 1.5 inches is enough where i dont have much space, MLV + Drywall (2x).
I am in a similar situation. Did this work for you?
I’m looking to cover the inside of a boiler cupboard with this, if I make sure there are no gaps in the MLV, would this work?
It definitely could work. It’s hard to say without the specifics but the MLV will not only block noise but will also absorb vibrations. Best of luck and let’s me know how it turns out.
Make sure there are no gaps between mlv sheets.
@@soundproofguide i want to install a water pump insids my house ,placing it inside a kitchen wood cabinet, is it enough to stick the MLV sheets to the wood or should i consider adding another layer of wood or dry wall above them?
What if i made a sound insulating box for the pump ?which material shoyld i use?
Currently i am not abls to find it in my country .i may depend on rock wool.
how does MLV compare to Tech 50 please?
Could you make sound panels for your walls out of MLV?
You could but they wouldn’t work as well as acoustic panels made with a wood frame and insulation inside. MLV does absorb “some” sound wave but will deflect most of them due to its flat and semi hard surface.
does this help for blocking bass....i don't want to hear my neighbors bass...
Yes, but you're going to need a lot more than that. You're probably getting lots of vibration too. Low frequency is a tough one. More mass is the key. In most cases you will only be able to reduce the noise by 50%.
Some jerkoff used to live next door who sometimes played loud music with bass blasting. He was a renter who was high on drugs most of the time, so reasoning with him did not work. Calling the police didn't really do anything, so I took him to court, that eventually forced him to move... thank god.
Hey, how's it going ma friend. Question for ya soundproof wise. I think i live with two roommates and one roommate are rooms next door to one another and from i have noticed when i lightly test it sometimes that the wall separating our rooms appears to be i think a bit follow or hollow enough to certain extent for that matter anyways. But anywho... that being said, was wondering what could be the best path to go for best results for making my space a bit more private type sanctuary in a sense.
Along with noise or convos going on whatever etc in there room that stays in there room and same for mine. Wether gaming, chatting on phone with so and so etc an on stuff like that.👌 Oh lastly before i forgot to mention this as well my entertainment setup faces the wall that separates our rooms to add that factor into the situation as well with the rest of all that i have said my comment here. Cheers, thanks! 🙂😎🙏🤙👊
@SoundProof Guide so...? 😌💁♂️
Hey sorry for missing this comment. So you’re living in an apartment where you can’t really make any permanent alterations to make the room more soundproof? If this is the case then there’s not much you can do because adding panels on the wall will not block noise and hanging mass loaded vinyl floor to ceiling will not get you the results you’re looking for.
Other than ear plugs and white noise machines, there’s not much you can do if you can’t add mass to the wall.
You could add a door sweep to cover the gap at the bottom of the door. This would block a lot of noise if it’s coming from the hallway. Watch one of my videos oh how to soundproof a door; this is something you can do because adding a door sweep is not permanent and you can take it with you to your next residence.
Hope this helps. Best of luck.
No not an apartment or more town house complex kind of thing i ment or must have not been the most clear about that in my question to you. My bad on that if that's the case 😌🤔🤷♂️
Would double layering mlv do more for noise reduction?
Yea it would! I would do one layer of the 2lb MLV before having two layers of 1lb MLV but if you double up the 2lb MLV you should have better noise reduction.
@@soundproofguide The 1lb MLV is much easier on your back too. 2lb is heavy!
Does MLV have to be installed vertically ? i see that all the videos on MLV they always install them vertically, is there a specific reason for that ?
It’s because they come in a roll so it’s much easier to install vertically. Gravity is your friend 😉
It does not HAVE to be installed vertically but it’s just easier.
@@soundproofguide Got you! Thank you so so much! i had a contractor install MLV and he went from vertical to horizontal in the middle of his project not sure why 😂
Why is out of stock in aazon?
Can you use yoga mats to sound proof?
Yoga mats would only be good to absorb foot traffic noise. It won’t do much to actually block noise.
Can we use this to sound treat windows?
Yes. I made a window plug and put it over my bedroom window. Def helps.
Hey thank you for this! What would you think of wrapping a commercial vacuum cleaner in MLV? Trying to quiet mine down to avoid disturbing customers.
The exhaust noise is treated well, but the plastic body of the vacuum vibrates at the frequency of the motor and transmits noise that way. The motor is decoupled with rubber mounts, but some noise energy is still transferred to the body of the vacuum
Thanks great video. I have a laminate flooring in my bedroom and I hear a constant vibrational noise from downstairs (like a pump of sorts running). I can't alter the floor. Would this be safe to lay over the laminate floor and cover with a big rug and be useful in reducing the sound ? Also would the material of the mlv damage the surface of the laminate? Thanks for your advice much appreciated
what you do and will work 100% you put it under the laminate you use the MLV as the laminate underlay, you lift the laminate if its click (locks together) use a sticker and number the laminate or pencil and write the numbers so you know where they need to go back down I would lay it then put the laminate back over it and fit a carpet over the laminate get someone to fit the carpet with grippers and they will tuck it in with a carpet stretcher for you
i live in the UK carpet and laminate fitting is not that expensive under 100 dollars 4mx4m room more like 60 dollars its well worth you doing if ypou can afford it dont put it over the top of the laminate for the saving of 100 dollars its not that hard to DIY but its not much to have someone do a proper job of it either wat dont put it on top of laminate
997 Marks Crest
Mlv Vs sonopan?
Has anyone attached this to a basement ceiling?
Candace Inlet
Vinyl is toxic when temperatures are hot, if the vinyl was replaced with a nontoxic, none volatile organic compound material I may be interested in using it. I installed it on a friend's condominium and I was not impressed with with the sound deadening, from indoors I could still hear voices and cars driving by.
Interesting. Thanks for your feedback. The only time that this type of vinyl I was talking about is toxic when exposed to heat is when it’s actually hot enough to burn, like a house fire, even then it will take a while to begin to burn which could give people more time to get out of the house safely. I do understand your concerns however. Thanks and great comment!
Romaguera Square
Estell Motorway
Alphonso Ranch
Ethyl Lights
Charity Meadows
Kohler Bridge
Maryjane Mews
Mante Knoll
Bulah Mountain
It's super heavy
This channel went form being a practical soundproof guide, to you using soundproof topics as an excuse to make UA-cam videos. And, now you have so many videos that give nothing but academic information, that they're almost useless for people actually building a soundproof room. You've got a good channel, but I've been doing this for 30yrs (in one fashion or another) and not once has someone asked me for the MSDS of MLV. *Is it practical, and affordable, and how to hang it....that's what people want to know.* You have so many videos giving winded information like this, that it's becoming pointless to even click on them anymore. At least put something in the titled that reflects what this video ISN'T, so the viewer can move on to something more appropriate for what they're doing.
It's all about the $$$. Also, some of the advice he gives is totally incorrect. YT seems to love him though. Just type in "soundproofing" into the YT search and his vids come up before all others.