What did the overall largest part end up being in dimensions. ? Love the work up. I've done a few that are simpler I suppose. But love the overall project.
Look for "Project 01 - Better Volume Control" on Elliott Sound Products, if you ever touch audio again. It WILL feel weird at first. But after a few minutes, you're guaranteed to love it beyond all reason and will never want to touch another volume control again. This sounds a bit hyperbolic, i know, but trust me on this. You never expect to fall in love with volume control, until you do. I wept when you said you used linear pots, which... well, just read the article. After which you'll be using linear pots, but smarter. What pots are good to use? The green sealed ones from China, ALPS clones. They're great! And they're cheap, you can buy 10 for like $2! Except if you wanted an integrated switch, they don't have that, but apparently you've found something you like, so that's good. If i never see the brown PCB open pots again, it might just be too soon, they're generally all bad. When driving an amplifier, the resistance is not critical, anything between 1k and 100k is fine. Note that the Project 01 above introduces a good bit of impedance weirdness, so you want to choose a higher value, 10k-100k thereabouts, in order to not introduce too much distortion at the source, like the Bluetooth receiver. Higher resistance is noisier, but when dealing with these shitty amps and these shitty Bluetooth receivers, that's a theoretical consideration of no consequence whatsoever, i can guarantee you that all the noise you're hearing is coming from the active electronics and not from the volume control. As to how you blew up the amp board... it's probably just a lot lossier (and hotter) with 4 Ohm speakers in general, plus higher voltage incurs also higher loss, so either that's how, or for an entirely independent reason. The voltage gain is fixed, it's not dependent on the supply voltage, so with these same 4 Ohm speakers, and same input signal, and same volume setting on the pot, there is exactly the same amount of power being output, regardless of supply voltage. But on some of these, the thermal losses do depend on supply voltage, and they need cooling starting with 18V or so in general.
I seem to only ever use BT speakers when I'm outdoors on picnics barbeques and the like and one thing I have noticed is to get decent sound outside I need about 35W minimum and can use about 80% of the volume before it starts to clip. I would also need two units for true stereo separation, I noticed when I ran my HiFi speakers outside that the sound was much better in stereo. The design I was thinking of would be two units that clip together and able to separate easily when stereo separation is required, and a handle that spans both units without any strain on the locking device but is removable before dividing the speakers. At the time I was thinking about this I thought it would also be a good idea to be able to plug my guitar in as well, all these requirements ended up being the building blocks of procrastination, watching this video has got me thinking about actually building it!
This reminds me just how good the textured PEI surface is and how big of a difference on the look of the parts it makes. Great project, good to see these actual applications of 3D-printing going on, the sort of "making" people keep taking about.
Great video Adam. Been considering something like this for some time, maybe this is just the motivation I need. I'm guessing it has a decent amount of volume?
Hi, Adam! Hi, anybody who will dare to read this to the end! :D When you'll show us how that Dragon hot end works? I'm thinking about to upgrade my Tevo Flash with it. Also I'm in thoughts of choice: direct or bowden? Direct will mean to buy even more hardware (Dragon isn't cheap at all by itself). Bowden means to model a custom case for the hot end and buying three or four additional fans (depends on a cooling scheme that I'll choose). Do you have some advices about all that? I've found that even 3010 fans can be pretty quiet. But I'm thinking about Noctua (yeah, pretty "not cheap" one) but it's 40** size. Also the model cooling fans... Is it best to choose two 5015 blower fans and lower the voltage or take two slim blower fans? My other big concern is the PWM noise. Maybe it sounds weird for some people... But these slim blower fans has a nasty PWM noise when they're not on 100% It sounds like a bunch of distant mosquitos... As I plan to print overnight (in my room... don't have any other options) so I need to make the machine as quiet as possible. Also I plan to do a simple air filtering/conditioning system (just moving the gases off my room to the outside) after all upgrades. I think that printing even with PETG isn't very healthy. We still breath in fine plastic particles when it prints... you'll not run away from this. I'm using a (good) hair spray and at the start (when it's fresh) it smells as well. My good friend red cat doesn't like this spray's smell as well :( So actually I've started about air filtering after I've noticed this fact.
Wow never seen work quite like this. I have attempted this on UA-cam but failed badly as a result of filament problems. I really like your driver choice and your clear narrations. Just a question. How do the frequency responses differ from 3d filament in comparison to wood? I
You can see it working in the first 15 seconds of the video. Listening is kinda pointless as it's through a cheap mic and whatever speakers people use.
Nice project. I’m always inspired by people who design and share useful projects. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome, glad you liked it.
@4:20 it's a blue tak speaker 😁
Really nice video 👍
All that effort for no demo?
What did the overall largest part end up being in dimensions. ? Love the work up. I've done a few that are simpler I suppose. But love the overall project.
Light on content, but great inspiration
Um, thanks i guess.
Look for "Project 01 - Better Volume Control" on Elliott Sound Products, if you ever touch audio again. It WILL feel weird at first. But after a few minutes, you're guaranteed to love it beyond all reason and will never want to touch another volume control again. This sounds a bit hyperbolic, i know, but trust me on this. You never expect to fall in love with volume control, until you do. I wept when you said you used linear pots, which... well, just read the article. After which you'll be using linear pots, but smarter.
What pots are good to use? The green sealed ones from China, ALPS clones. They're great! And they're cheap, you can buy 10 for like $2! Except if you wanted an integrated switch, they don't have that, but apparently you've found something you like, so that's good. If i never see the brown PCB open pots again, it might just be too soon, they're generally all bad. When driving an amplifier, the resistance is not critical, anything between 1k and 100k is fine. Note that the Project 01 above introduces a good bit of impedance weirdness, so you want to choose a higher value, 10k-100k thereabouts, in order to not introduce too much distortion at the source, like the Bluetooth receiver. Higher resistance is noisier, but when dealing with these shitty amps and these shitty Bluetooth receivers, that's a theoretical consideration of no consequence whatsoever, i can guarantee you that all the noise you're hearing is coming from the active electronics and not from the volume control.
As to how you blew up the amp board... it's probably just a lot lossier (and hotter) with 4 Ohm speakers in general, plus higher voltage incurs also higher loss, so either that's how, or for an entirely independent reason. The voltage gain is fixed, it's not dependent on the supply voltage, so with these same 4 Ohm speakers, and same input signal, and same volume setting on the pot, there is exactly the same amount of power being output, regardless of supply voltage. But on some of these, the thermal losses do depend on supply voltage, and they need cooling starting with 18V or so in general.
Dang, man. That turned out great!
Thanks Joel.
So... How does it sounds? You have not a bad mic, so why not to place a little demo?
I seem to only ever use BT speakers when I'm outdoors on picnics barbeques and the like and one thing I have noticed is to get decent sound outside I need about 35W minimum and can use about 80% of the volume before it starts to clip.
I would also need two units for true stereo separation, I noticed when I ran my HiFi speakers outside that the sound was much better in stereo.
The design I was thinking of would be two units that clip together and able to separate easily when stereo separation is required, and a handle that spans both units without any strain on the locking device but is removable before dividing the speakers.
At the time I was thinking about this I thought it would also be a good idea to be able to plug my guitar in as well, all these requirements ended up being the building blocks of procrastination, watching this video has got me thinking about actually building it!
This is exactly why objective number 1 was simplicity 😅
This reminds me just how good the textured PEI surface is and how big of a difference on the look of the parts it makes.
Great project, good to see these actual applications of 3D-printing going on, the sort of "making" people keep taking about.
Great video! Only little bit anticlimactic as you didn't show it playing (with you making a dance)!
Check the new video. Audio demo.
Great video Adam. Been considering something like this for some time, maybe this is just the motivation I need. I'm guessing it has a decent amount of volume?
Ye, I mean it doesn't blow the roof off the house or anything, but from my small room it's plenty loud enough.
150$ its quite lot of $$$ for this project
Grats on the 10K subs!
I like the style of this video :)
Thanks
10.000 subs! Please make a how to Nema23+Arduino. I’ve looked and no good guide yet.
Thanks, I'll look into it.
huh the vase mode idea thingi is smort!
Hi, Adam! Hi, anybody who will dare to read this to the end! :D
When you'll show us how that Dragon hot end works? I'm thinking about to upgrade my Tevo Flash with it. Also I'm in thoughts of choice: direct or bowden? Direct will mean to buy even more hardware (Dragon isn't cheap at all by itself). Bowden means to model a custom case for the hot end and buying three or four additional fans (depends on a cooling scheme that I'll choose).
Do you have some advices about all that? I've found that even 3010 fans can be pretty quiet. But I'm thinking about Noctua (yeah, pretty "not cheap" one) but it's 40** size. Also the model cooling fans... Is it best to choose two 5015 blower fans and lower the voltage or take two slim blower fans?
My other big concern is the PWM noise. Maybe it sounds weird for some people... But these slim blower fans has a nasty PWM noise when they're not on 100% It sounds like a bunch of distant mosquitos... As I plan to print overnight (in my room... don't have any other options) so I need to make the machine as quiet as possible.
Also I plan to do a simple air filtering/conditioning system (just moving the gases off my room to the outside) after all upgrades. I think that printing even with PETG isn't very healthy. We still breath in fine plastic particles when it prints... you'll not run away from this. I'm using a (good) hair spray and at the start (when it's fresh) it smells as well. My good friend red cat doesn't like this spray's smell as well :( So actually I've started about air filtering after I've noticed this fact.
Good
Super nice!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Wow never seen work quite like this. I have attempted this on UA-cam but failed badly as a result of filament problems. I really like your driver choice and your clear narrations. Just a question. How do the frequency responses differ from 3d filament in comparison to wood? I
What’s the program your using
solidworks for 3d modelling, but i would suggest going with fusion 360 as its free for hobby use.
@@Vector3DP oh thanks
awesome, and really pretty filament choices! what are the purple and glittery red you used please?
Both prusament. The red is petg. The purple is pla.
@@Vector3DP awesome, thank you. it seems they've added new colours since i last looked. they're really lovely.
Why didn't you turned it on and showed that it actualy works?
You can see it working in the first 15 seconds of the video. Listening is kinda pointless as it's through a cheap mic and whatever speakers people use.
Other than nosie, there is no other visual indication its actually powered on.
Great project
Nice to some DIY on the channel
Thanks for sharing :-)
Oh, and what CAD program are you using?
Thanks for watching! Solidworks for this one.