Do you have a list of parts someplace, drivers etc... Also if you are willing to share the STEP files rather than STL would be awesome for people who want to modify the design etc. I am serious about building these as this marries my two favorite hobbies.. 3d printers and Audio lol
@@kawag2780 well I get that but I wanted a bom of what he used here so I can be sure I got the same parts etc… This design was made for very specific drivers so knowing them specifically is very important
Hey, man, I replied yesterday but looks like it got nabbed by YT’s filter. One of my Patrons told me about this video. If you’re open to sending it my way for testing/review then let me know and I’d be happy to. Erin
What an absolutely fantastic collab, and great way to round out this series. I am particularly interested in seeing how well this waveguide works, and compare it with the Philharmonic Ceramic mini speaker that uses similar sb acoustics drivers.
I love audio and 3D printing, so watching these videos make those two worlds collide. It's the best thing ever! Hope to see more of these videos sprinkled in
He's already testing out augerpro's speaker, which uses the same drivers. One thing I suspect the Klippel will find is that the side walls have significant resonances at 250-700 hz. No bracing will do that. DMS's measurements are way too gated to show this, and he uses near field measurements for the woofer so any real cabinet interaction wont be shown, which is a shame. It seems no actual full range quasi anechoic measurements were taken.
I definitely did a lot of work to deal with resonances but I’m sure it can always be improved. I don’t have a hemianechoic space at the moment for more detailed measurements.
Agree - but yup, LOVE the video, LOVE the idea, love the look, but I think tweeter is going to be real hot, my gut tells me that crossover needs a resistor at the start of the tweeter network, with a bypass cap on it in parallel to allow some 15-20khz to pass over it. Easy fix. Looks to me like woofer was only measured in nearfield and baffle step compensation is not correctly applied to woofer giving correct sensitivity match between drivers. I could be wrong though!
Hoping a full BOM and some more detailed instructions is in the works? You mention a parts list during the video but there doesn't seem to be one linked in the description.
@@DMS3TVa full bill of materials is needed! I don’t want to scrub through the video a hundred times trying to figure out what I need. Especially for crossover components! If you can link sources too!
Now that multi-material printing is about to become normal we are going to see a revolution in home audio. A hard shell with an algorithmically derived internal material/density layout? You can apply with software immediately? People with intermediate knowledge can do this in their apartments right now.
Hey you should try using plaster of paris mixed with PVA as a wall filler to add rigidity without using huge amounts of filament DIYPerks did a video about it, it'd be cool to see your take on his design/techniques
Maybe you can try integrating diffuser/meta absorbers into the inner surface of the enclosure since it is 3D printed. you can also leave holes in the walls to insert metal or cf rods for stiffness/resonance tuning. oh and you can skin it with carbon fiber for added stiffness.
Heads up for everyone interested in actually building this, its like a $500+ USD build, not to mention some of the components he uses is out of stock right now. Very interested to see the community develop and tinker with this build tho!
A question for DMS, why 4mm wall thickness, at that thickness on a standard nozzle at .4mm you would need 10 wall lines and at 30% infill it would consume 1.13Kg of filament... just for the bottom half. Are you 100% sure you printed at these dimensions if so then you might need to adjust the numbers in the video.
With a 0.4mm nozzle at 4mm wall thickness and 30% infil mine comes out to 890g of filament for the bottom half. Odd. I just double checked to make sure.
Any reason why you don't use internal bracing to stiffen the walls of the speaker? No idea if it would be beneficial or not but quite easy to add so I guess there's a reason you didn't?
Amazing video! I would love to build these speakers for myself, but I have no idea about electronics, and I would really appreciate a tutorial on how to assemble the crossover. If you have the time and it’s not too much trouble, I would be very grateful for one!
Has anyone tested what the infill% will do to the audio quality? I know rigidity helps with Sound quality but when is the falloff point? E.g That going from 60% to 100% just gives a negligible benefit.
just found this today......still no parts list? I see the speaker components. thank you for that @DMS. If you have anything updated on the crossover materials please let me know. Liked and subbed.
Great video. I love that you made these opensource. I'm just hoping someone out there can make one that can fit a 196 x 122 x 210 mm size resin printer.
What are the different colors in the frequency response graph at the end of the video? If this is a near-field speaker, can it be used in a small room as well (does only verticality suffer in that case)? How much did it cost you to make it (approximately)? What parts did you use for the crossover?
Might be worth doing more info on the crossover or at least linking to good resources. Lost me at the diagram. Don't know where to start to learn about it
@@DMS3TV Another quick question, do you think these need their own stands or would they be fine on a wooden desk with some dampening materials under them if needed?
Okay but let’s say I don’t have a 3D printer and I’m in need of a pair of “cheap” but really good speakers. What brands should I look at? I wanna run them through my audio interface (motu m2). I am not looking for a V-shaped sound, more neutral.
Four rolls of filament? Well, sounds like a good option for those who have no wood working possibilities, but kinda makes it uneconomical for someone who does work wood. There are a lot of excellent speaker builds on YT. But up front, for $500, one can build a much bigger set of speakers. Hell, I'm not sure how much better this is than just buying a set of speakers.
It would be near impossible to achieve the same radius needed for the waveguide via woodworking without 3-axis CNC. For a price point comparison you can buy a set of speakers with similar performance (in terms of both directivity measurements and frequency response) for about $2500.
Has anyone build these? I was searching for a pretty good 3D printed speaker , and thought this is the real deal. Just to find out that there are no real in depth test, just "it is good", no BOM, no instructions, nothing. Tbh this whole project seems just like a "lets make money through adverting" video. The comments are full of people who are interested in this project and ask for BOMs (what is the absolute minimum to expect from a DIY project) or more info. But no response, again nothing. You made the video, got the money from ankermake and "ciao". Very disapointing...
0:45 Are you talking about stiffness and not printing in full? But even if you print with texture, just this weak? I consider your whole concept to be inauthentic and flawed. You saved a lot at the expense of quality. The inside is completely empty without channels and the quality of the print is not very good.
Do you have a list of parts someplace, drivers etc... Also if you are willing to share the STEP files rather than STL would be awesome for people who want to modify the design etc. I am serious about building these as this marries my two favorite hobbies.. 3d printers and Audio lol
@@kawag2780 well I get that but I wanted a bom of what he used here so I can be sure I got the same parts etc… This design was made for very specific drivers so knowing them specifically is very important
2:17 in the video has the list
Hey, man, I replied yesterday but looks like it got nabbed by YT’s filter.
One of my Patrons told me about this video. If you’re open to sending it my way for testing/review then let me know and I’d be happy to.
Erin
Would love to! What's the best way to get in touch?
What an absolutely fantastic collab, and great way to round out this series. I am particularly interested in seeing how well this waveguide works, and compare it with the Philharmonic Ceramic mini speaker that uses similar sb acoustics drivers.
Did this actually ever work out? :)
I love audio and 3D printing, so watching these videos make those two worlds collide. It's the best thing ever! Hope to see more of these videos sprinkled in
Let’s get these sent over to Erin’s audio corner for kipper testing!
He's already testing out augerpro's speaker, which uses the same drivers.
One thing I suspect the Klippel will find is that the side walls have significant resonances at 250-700 hz. No bracing will do that.
DMS's measurements are way too gated to show this, and he uses near field measurements for the woofer so any real cabinet interaction wont be shown, which is a shame. It seems no actual full range quasi anechoic measurements were taken.
Let’s keep upvoting this though to try to make it happen
I would love to.
I definitely did a lot of work to deal with resonances but I’m sure it can always be improved. I don’t have a hemianechoic space at the moment for more detailed measurements.
Agree - but yup, LOVE the video, LOVE the idea, love the look, but I think tweeter is going to be real hot, my gut tells me that crossover needs a resistor at the start of the tweeter network, with a bypass cap on it in parallel to allow some 15-20khz to pass over it. Easy fix. Looks to me like woofer was only measured in nearfield and baffle step compensation is not correctly applied to woofer giving correct sensitivity match between drivers. I could be wrong though!
Very cool proof of concept and execution. Well done!
Hoping a full BOM and some more detailed instructions is in the works? You mention a parts list during the video but there doesn't seem to be one linked in the description.
I mostly put three parts list on screen but can type it out also later today.
@@DMS3TVI think this project deserves a github page with docs!
@@DMS3TVa full bill of materials is needed! I don’t want to scrub through the video a hundred times trying to figure out what I need. Especially for crossover components!
If you can link sources too!
Now that multi-material printing is about to become normal we are going to see a revolution in home audio. A hard shell with an algorithmically derived internal material/density layout? You can apply with software immediately? People with intermediate knowledge can do this in their apartments right now.
Great Video - Thanks for making it! I enjoy the speaker content.
Hey you should try using plaster of paris mixed with PVA as a wall filler to add rigidity without using huge amounts of filament
DIYPerks did a video about it, it'd be cool to see your take on his design/techniques
was waiting for this one...can't wait to try this it out
will be doing this on my P1S
how did that go? I am trying to do the same!
Maybe you can try integrating diffuser/meta absorbers into the inner surface of the enclosure since it is 3D printed. you can also leave holes in the walls to insert metal or cf rods for stiffness/resonance tuning. oh and you can skin it with carbon fiber for added stiffness.
Heads up for everyone interested in actually building this, its like a $500+ USD build, not to mention some of the components he uses is out of stock right now. Very interested to see the community develop and tinker with this build tho!
Nicely Done.
Just when I thought you lost interest in this followup video :)
Keep it coming.
A question for DMS, why 4mm wall thickness, at that thickness on a standard nozzle at .4mm you would need 10 wall lines and at 30% infill it would consume 1.13Kg of filament... just for the bottom half. Are you 100% sure you printed at these dimensions if so then you might need to adjust the numbers in the video.
With a 0.4mm nozzle at 4mm wall thickness and 30% infil mine comes out to 890g of filament for the bottom half. Odd. I just double checked to make sure.
@@DMS3TV for my software it says 1.13kg
Though I'm using cura and prusaslicer
@@cursedvoid odd. I’m using ankermake’s software which is based on prusa slice. Not using supports right? Maybe reduce infil?
@@DMS3TV hmm I'll fiddle with it some more to see if it's an error on the program
Hey man how much do you know about 3d printing? those settings recommendations seem nuts
I wonder if you can save some filament cost & improve the rigidity of the cabinet using the diy perks shells filled in with plaster of Paris method.
Wow, great instructional video
The crossover's part list would be very nice!
Any reason why you don't use internal bracing to stiffen the walls of the speaker?
No idea if it would be beneficial or not but quite easy to add so I guess there's a reason you didn't?
Amazing video! I would love to build these speakers for myself, but I have no idea about electronics, and I would really appreciate a tutorial on how to assemble the crossover. If you have the time and it’s not too much trouble, I would be very grateful for one!
Has anyone tested what the infill% will do to the audio quality?
I know rigidity helps with Sound quality but when is the falloff point?
E.g
That going from 60% to 100% just gives a negligible benefit.
What infill pattern did you use? I would be interested in a video or guide that goes more into detail on the exact settings you used for the print.
just found this today......still no parts list? I see the speaker components. thank you for that @DMS. If you have anything updated on the crossover materials please let me know. Liked and subbed.
The only parts needed are the ones in the video. I can compile a test list though sometime soon. Also: I'm still using these speakers! Love them
@@DMS3TV Hi DMS, a comprehensive list would be very helpful. What supply do you use?
why not 100% infill for the best reverberance reduction...
No need. Tested greater fill levels than what I did and measured no difference.
Great video. I love that you made these opensource. I'm just hoping someone out there can make one that can fit a 196 x 122 x 210 mm size resin printer.
What are the different colors in the frequency response graph at the end of the video? If this is a near-field speaker, can it be used in a small room as well (does only verticality suffer in that case)? How much did it cost you to make it (approximately)? What parts did you use for the crossover?
Well done
Might be worth doing more info on the crossover or at least linking to good resources. Lost me at the diagram. Don't know where to start to learn about it
Is there a parts list for this build?
What threaded inserts are those? Sizes
M4 :)
@@DMS3TV Thank you!
@@DMS3TV Another quick question, do you think these need their own stands or would they be fine on a wooden desk with some dampening materials under them if needed?
Where can we find the file?
If plastic was a suitable material for speaker enclosures everyone would be doing it. MDF and plywood are still the #1 choice.
plastic is totally fine for an enclosure, it just requires thoughtful design.
Okay but let’s say I don’t have a 3D printer and I’m in need of a pair of “cheap” but really good speakers. What brands should I look at? I wanna run them through my audio interface (motu m2). I am not looking for a V-shaped sound, more neutral.
Adam Audio T7V
JBL 306P mk2 are under $300 a pair and are an amazing value.
@@DMS3TV those are a bit less flat tho, right? As in they are pretty V shaped for audio monitors
@@nononanonon they have a dip at 1.6k but other than that it’s pretty dang flat on-axis especially for the price.
The 3d print files link doesn't work. Has this been removed?
What kind of amplifier would you recommend for them?
Lost me at the crossover steps 😕
Four rolls of filament? Well, sounds like a good option for those who have no wood working possibilities, but kinda makes it uneconomical for someone who does work wood. There are a lot of excellent speaker builds on YT. But up front, for $500, one can build a much bigger set of speakers. Hell, I'm not sure how much better this is than just buying a set of speakers.
It would be near impossible to achieve the same radius needed for the waveguide via woodworking without 3-axis CNC.
For a price point comparison you can buy a set of speakers with similar performance (in terms of both directivity measurements and frequency response) for about $2500.
Has anyone build these? I was searching for a pretty good 3D printed speaker , and thought this is the real deal. Just to find out that there are no real in depth test, just "it is good", no BOM, no instructions, nothing. Tbh this whole project seems just like a "lets make money through adverting" video. The comments are full of people who are interested in this project and ask for BOMs (what is the absolute minimum to expect from a DIY project) or more info. But no response, again nothing. You made the video, got the money from ankermake and "ciao". Very disapointing...
my thoughts exactly - very disappointing
YOINK
0:45 Are you talking about stiffness and not printing in full? But even if you print with texture, just this weak? I consider your whole concept to be inauthentic and flawed. You saved a lot at the expense of quality. The inside is completely empty without channels and the quality of the print is not very good.
under 500$ :|
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
this cup never spills!
I agree
first comment
Loser
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
Your parents must be so proud because you finally came in first in something
they are,
thanks man, hope you have good day@@jerrypowers7671