Spent last week watching your videos again on carb overhaul. My o-rings and gaskets arrived from Germany yesterday and I completed assembly of both units today. Your detailed video was very helpful. My original carbs were internally very dirty especially the right hand one which takes the feed from the crankcase breather hose blocking the atomiser completely. One piece of advice I could add is to use plumber's tape - the white stuff - to cover the threads and a little medicinal glycerine as a lubricant.Now to fit the carbs and start the bike again for the first time in three years! Cheers
Just about to dive into the rebuild of the CV of my recently purchased 1976 BMW R75/6 and came across your awesome video. Thanks again for posting this very informative.
What a great video and so helpful I've struggling to get my 75/6 brings sorted for sometime I fitted all new components but it's the tiny details that matter Thankyou for taking your time to share your knowledge
This 2-parter is so well done! Your clear video and careful explanation are very easy to follow. I just watched both again while taking notes of each step (and cross-referencing with other resources) and will be tackling my carbs tomorrow! I'm a newbie at Airheads, but I caught one thing you might have done out of order (at least according to my other sources). When installing the butterfly, one should install the throttle shaft bracket's two screws and nut before final butterfly adjustment and torquing of the two butterfly screws. Makes sense to me, as you want that shaft to be in it's final position before establishing where the butterfly is going to live, but I'm no expert so, by all means, do your own research!! Just wanted to note it here for other rebuilders. I hope this video stays online as long as there are Airheads on the road, as it's a great resource! Thank you!!
Thanks for the compliment! Yes, good catch on the throttle shaft install. Probably why it was squeaking in the video as well. I'll try to add a comment in the video about installing the shaft bracket first. Thanks!
I'm in the process of fixing up a 1973 r75/5 and never taken anything like this on before. Your channel is a valuable resource and can't wait for more. thanks and good luck!
+nigel p Thanks! I'm glad these videos are helping. I've found keeping old motorcycles on the road is challenging, but addictive. Good luck on your project as well!
Just finished a full carb rebuild after vapor honing for my r100/7. Great video and just what I needed to be sure I got it all back together properly. Thank you, and looking forward to more tech videos.
Thank you so much for the excellent video , I wasn't sure on a few items you covered and I am going to the garage and get my airhead running THANK YOU AGAIN!
fantastic man! this really helped me out, great quality shooting, steady calm clear voice, A+. Will you be doing one on tuning the carbs on the bike as well (my next step..haha)
+Daan DJ Thanks for the compliment! I'm glad these videos helped. I do plan to make a video on tuning/synchronizing the carbs as well. However, it may take me awhile. This bike is still in parts and tuning the carbs will be one of the last things I do when I get it all back together. Just make sure both carbs idle speed set screws are in the same position before tuning. Use a feeler gauge or piece of paper between the set screw and where the screw touches the throttle lever. Easy to do when the carbs are off the bike.
WELL DONE! GOOD MAN! PLEASE DO A STEP-BY-STEP CARB SYNCH and float adjustment(w/carbs on bike) FOR A 750 twin with 32mm Bings. This is excellent and much needed. Nice touch adding the little hint of bending the throttle return-spring holder so the spring does not rub against the idle adjustment spring, taped threads and oil/silicon grease. And the needle removal/replacement procedure -- nice. You left nothing out. Your voice is perfect for such a stressful detailed procedure. You know, that Colter Rule guy is right. Your voice does sound like Clint Eastwood -- but without the threat. (Good thing you did not do a vid on the first carb.-- had to laugh @ your Youvid rejection comment.)
Thanks for the comment! Unfortunately, a move and a new job have taken up most of my time these days and I haven't been able to make a video in a long time. However, I still have the bike and several ideas for new videos. So please subscribe and stay tuned!
There are a couple of things I would have done differently, I wouldn't have soaked the steel lever and springs in vinegar or anything that would have removed the protective plating from those parts, no matter how much grease or oil you put on them, they will rust and be unsightly and maybe reduce their function because of the rust. if you want them to look new, buy new ones and I feel that the springs are a throwaway idem, just replace them with new ones while you are rebuilding and going through all the bother. also, when it comes to o-rings when removing them brass o-ring pick is the best way to protect the sealing surface while removing them, Idk what you used, however, just a suggestion to think about. when reinstalling o-rings, I use dow corning mollycoat 55-M grease, it is made for 0-rings, silicone-based grease will make them swell and maybe a source of malfunctions later with the carburetor. I wasn't finding fault with your video, just a few suggestions, I found the video informative and well done, there were just a few things I would have done differently, So, peace out -Dave
Thanks for the comment and good suggestions! You are right about the vinegar. Although vinegar is a good rust remover, it seems to promote rust on steel as soon as you remove the item from the vinegar and clean it off. I've since started using a weak solution of phosphoric acid instead of vinegar (sold at Home Depot as concrete cleaner). I still use vinegar on heavy rust, but afterwards I immediately electroplate the item with a zinc coating. Yes, new parts are nice; however, as long as the old parts are not too rusted and damaged, they can be re-used if treated properly. I do use a piece of old sharpened coat hanger (brass hanger) to remove old o-rings. However, as my memory goes, the o-rings on these carbs were so old/brittle, I simply scratched them off with my fingernail. They crumbled and broke off easily. Looks like the Mollykoat 55-M you mentioned is still silicone oil based (according to it's MSDS); however it also includes Lithium. I'll probably get some and try it out. Thanks again!
Thanks! The part# for the springs is BMW #13 11 1 338 134. These springs were used on 1985 & newer airheads, in both 40mm & 32mm carbs. This bike is running fine and the carbs (& springs) are working great. If I ever find time, I'll make a follow up video.
Thank you very, very much for this video. BIG help in my first rebuild!! Do you know approx standard length of needles (in 3rd position) for 40mm carb?
Thanks! I'm glad this video helped. Unfortunately, I don't know the length of the needle from the slide on the 40mm Bings (in the third slot). If you're careful, after three clicks, you should be good.
+nigel p Not yet. The R75/5 these carbs go on is still in parts. I hope to have this bike back on the road soon though. And, I will update this video with info regarding the carbs performance. Thanks for watching!
Hi, and thank you for the video. I am in process of replacing my needles in my 32mm Bings. You mention that the small retaining wires aren't visible, but they are when looking down the tube from the top after the needle is removed. On mine, one set of wires is clearly not right. Is there anything that can be done to fix this? Thanks.
You are welcome and good question! These old carbs are mostly aluminum and you need to use a cleaner that will not damage it. I use a diluted solution of the Simple green Pro HD (purple stuff) that you can buy at most hardware stores and water. Good luck!
Unfortunately, I am in the middle of big move and it will take me a while to get setup in my new location. I do plan to make a video like this. However, it may be a several weeks from now.
All good. I will wait till you post it up. I replaced my throttle cables and can't seem to get them back on right. So take your time, I appreciate you making videos educating me on the R75/5
Question? (R75/7) if carbs are running too rich (air mix screw 1/4 out) would the next step be adjusting the needle height? would that be up or down a grove? thanks look forward to your comment.
Please make more videos You got me to thinking we should have some lite oil in the gasoline to lubricate the carbs. I came down to marvel mystery oil or may 2 stroke oil. I think the mmo. Only a tiny bit. What do you think? Please make more videos
Hi Morgan. I'm unsure myself about using a little oil in a fuel tank. I've used the Marvel Mystery oil in a car I had (because a friend gave me some). I don't remember any noticeable performance improvements to the car. A little oil may help the situation if you had sticky floats. However, since the fuel is atomized as soon as it leaves the float bowel, I'm not sure it would do much for the rest of the carb (maybe help lube the butterfly valve a little). I do use some of the fuel additives around and they do help. This bike is mostly finished. I am working on a couple electrical issues I will probably make a video about. Also have plans to redo the old seat that could make a decent video. Thanks for subscribing! You should get a notification when I get off my rear and make a new video!
Well done . . . thanks! Where did you get your rebuild kit? I have a Rotax 912 that uses 2 Bing 64 carbs. Yours look nearly identical to mine. One key difference is the floats. Your 2 floats per carb are molded to the metal bracket and have no keeper pin holding the fuel inlet needle. My 2 floats per carb are separate from the metal bracket that moves the floats, and has a keeper pin holding the fuel inlet needle. My style of floats has a bad history of sinking floats. So I am wondering if your floats will fit my carburetor and work better (not absorb fuel and sink). Rotax wants $200 for a set of my floats, so I'm looking for better, cheaper floats and new bowl gaskets. Thanks for any help!
You can get the carb float parts from MaxBMW's website. They have an excellent OEM parts lookup. The Bing 64s were used on the R80 & R90s I think. However, if you are talking about a Rotax aviation engine; the Bings used on those have the weird kind of floats for a reason. I'm no pilot (never took the test), but I have stalled a Cessna at over 10,000ft. You certainly don't want your engine to have a fuel issue when you are upside down at elevation. Being upside down on a motorcycle, the carbs are the least of your worries ;)
Hi, thanks for putting these vids up, very helpful. I might have missed it, but how did you get the rusty centres of the carb tops so shiny and new looking? A.
+Alex Johns I skipped that part in the video. I polished the aluminum tops of the carbs using lots of elbow grease and metal polish. For the rusty steel centers of the carb tops, I used a steel wire cup in a dremel to knock the rust off (be careful to not scratch the aluminum). Then I used a small paintbrush to paint black enamel over the steel. The black enamel paint should keep rust away. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for all the details on the 32 Bing rebuild. I wanted to ask, did you find the assist of the slide springs you installed to finally be an enhancement or a hindrance? I am restoring a '72 R75/5 SWB currently and wanted to know if it's worth installing those springs ( specifically BMW 13 11 1 338 134 ). Thanks again!
You're welcome; glad the video helped! Yes, the springs are working fine in the Bing 32s on my R75/5. I used those exact springs (13 11 1 338 134). I can't compare the performance (with vs. without springs) since I installed the springs before I got the engine running. However, I didn't like how slow the needle dropped, on it's own, on one carb and even seemed to bind a bit on occasion without spring assist. I ended up doing a little polishing on the bores and adding the springs. The carbs are working great. Good luck on your build!
You're welcome! Yes, most of the Bing CV carbs are similar. The earlier R100RS (1977-1984) used similar 40mm Bing CV carbs. The 1988-1993 R100RS used newer Bing 32mm carbs, and I'm not familiar with them, but they look close enough that these videos should help. Good luck!
Hi , got a BMW R80 GS (1994) , it started after 10 years , the right cylinder gets hot in less than a minute but the left one remains cold so i guess it's not working. I found out that the left cylinder starts heating only at high RPM (4000+).Have you got any sugestion please ? I have installed new sparking plugs , air filter , new engine oil and battery .
It certainly sounds like you have a dead cylinder (left cylinder). It's good that at least one cylinder is working, you can use that to troubleshoot. Warning: I'm not familiar with the newer airheads (90s), but I think they are all similar enough that my advice should help. I would: 1) Pull the spark plug wire off the dead left cylinder. Start the bike. Will probably sound exactly the same. This is just to confirm you have a dead left cylinder. 2) You know the right cylinder ignition system is working, and you have replaced the spark plugs, so try switching the spark plug wire from the good right cylinder and using it on the dead left cylinder. Try the known good coil as well. 3) Hopefully the bike will then start and run on the left cylinder. This will help you narrow down what component is bad without having to buy lots of new parts. 4) If the left cylinder will still not start working, start looking at the left side carburetor. This video should help. 5) An engine needs fuel (from the carbs), air (carbs again), spark (from the ignition), and compression (test the compression using a tester, very low compression in the left cylinder could also be the cause) in order to run. Good Luck!
The SS screw kit is from BMWHucky (He has some nice kits - makes it easy). Some other parts are from MaxBMW (best OEM parts lookup online - and the M&Ms are a nice touch). Also lots of Ebay bargain shopping. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Spent last week watching your videos again on carb overhaul. My o-rings and gaskets arrived from Germany yesterday and I completed assembly of both units today. Your detailed video was very helpful. My original carbs were internally very dirty especially the right hand one which takes the feed from the crankcase breather hose blocking the atomiser completely. One piece of advice I could add is to use plumber's tape - the white stuff - to cover the threads and a little medicinal glycerine as a lubricant.Now to fit the carbs and start the bike again for the first time in three years! Cheers
Nice. Glad my videos helped! Safe riding!
Thank you
That was a great help
Thank you for taking the time to show so much detail
Terry
You are welcome! Thanks for the comment!
Just about to dive into the rebuild of the CV of my recently purchased 1976 BMW R75/6 and came across your awesome video. Thanks again for posting this very informative.
Happy to help, Good luck!
This was a great help. Mystery of the innards explained. Your siezed screws solution especially useful with my also 40 year old carbs.Great video.
What a great video and so helpful I've struggling to get my 75/6 brings sorted for sometime I fitted all new components but it's the tiny details that matter
Thankyou for taking your time to share your knowledge
This 2-parter is so well done! Your clear video and careful explanation are very easy to follow. I just watched both again while taking notes of each step (and cross-referencing with other resources) and will be tackling my carbs tomorrow! I'm a newbie at Airheads, but I caught one thing you might have done out of order (at least according to my other sources). When installing the butterfly, one should install the throttle shaft bracket's two screws and nut before final butterfly adjustment and torquing of the two butterfly screws. Makes sense to me, as you want that shaft to be in it's final position before establishing where the butterfly is going to live, but I'm no expert so, by all means, do your own research!! Just wanted to note it here for other rebuilders. I hope this video stays online as long as there are Airheads on the road, as it's a great resource! Thank you!!
Thanks for the compliment! Yes, good catch on the throttle shaft install. Probably why it was squeaking in the video as well. I'll try to add a comment in the video about installing the shaft bracket first. Thanks!
@@bodhibikeshop8701 I wish you could do a whole series on the whole bike! Spline lube...fork rebuild...etc...etc... ;)
I'm in the process of fixing up a 1973 r75/5 and never taken anything like this on before. Your channel is a valuable resource and can't wait for more. thanks and good luck!
+nigel p Thanks! I'm glad these videos are helping. I've found keeping old motorcycles on the road is challenging, but addictive. Good luck on your project as well!
Excellent, thank you. I've already done the rebuilds on my carbs but will be tearing them back apart to apply your techniques.
Thank you very much for the detailed walkthrough with tips to rebuild my carbs on the 1986 R80gs excellent video!
Great video. I've just tackled my very first carb rebuild and this helped me through!! Thanks.
Just finished a full carb rebuild after vapor honing for my r100/7. Great video and just what I needed to be sure I got it all back together properly. Thank you, and looking forward to more tech videos.
Thanks for the compliment! I hope to make some more videos soon.
thank u very much sir, working on a 1982 r 100 with 40 mill carbs, very useful for me
Wow. I had no idea it was so involved. Great job.
This video was very useful. Thanks for producing it.
Thanks! I'm glad the video helped.
Thank you very much for taking your time to make this video mate bravo
You're welcome! I enjoy making the videos and really appreciate the compliment!
Thanks for laying out which piece each o-ring went with. I just rebuilt my 2 Bing 40mm CV off an RT100RT and that helped!
Thanks, this video is very helpful to this first time carb cleaner.
Thank you so much for the excellent video , I wasn't sure on a few items you covered and I am going to the garage and get my airhead running THANK YOU AGAIN!
Thanks for the video my friend. My carb is working amazing again
Great! Thanks for the comment!
Many thanks for posting this!
Thanks, this was a very helpful video.
Great work lot of small détails that are vers important well done
fantastic man! this really helped me out, great quality shooting, steady calm clear voice, A+. Will you be doing one on tuning the carbs on the bike as well (my next step..haha)
+Daan DJ Thanks for the compliment! I'm glad these videos helped. I do plan to make a video on tuning/synchronizing the carbs as well. However, it may take me awhile. This bike is still in parts and tuning the carbs will be one of the last things I do when I get it all back together. Just make sure both carbs idle speed set screws are in the same position before tuning. Use a feeler gauge or piece of paper between the set screw and where the screw touches the throttle lever. Easy to do when the carbs are off the bike.
WELL DONE! GOOD MAN! PLEASE DO A STEP-BY-STEP CARB SYNCH and float adjustment(w/carbs on bike)
FOR A 750 twin with 32mm Bings.
This is excellent and much needed. Nice touch adding the little hint of bending the throttle return-spring holder so the spring does not rub against the idle adjustment spring, taped threads and oil/silicon grease. And the needle removal/replacement procedure -- nice. You left nothing out.
Your voice is perfect for such a stressful detailed procedure.
You know, that Colter Rule guy is right. Your voice does sound like Clint Eastwood -- but without the threat.
(Good thing you did not do a vid on the first carb.-- had to laugh @ your Youvid rejection comment.)
Thanks for the comment! Unfortunately, a move and a new job have taken up most of my time these days and I haven't been able to make a video in a long time. However, I still have the bike and several ideas for new videos. So please subscribe and stay tuned!
I’m interested in the sync video as well! Love this video. I’ve got Bing 64’s on my airplane and this was a very informative video.
thank you for taking the time to make these videos... r100gs-pd
Clint Eastwood sure does know his 'bings'.
Great video thanks.
Also the bing carburetors of my cagiva elefat 750 have been set up
Excellent video, thanks for the effort!
+Logjam5 ...also good close in camera work, actually see what is being described.
+Logjam5 Thanks! I tried to delete most of the close up's of the back of my hands; but far to many made it in the video. I'm glad I could help.
Thank you, it was very useful!! Great! Greetings from Germany
Wow! Very nice! I wish I had algebra explained to me with as much clarity - I would have been a NASA scientist!
There are a couple of things I would have done differently, I wouldn't have soaked the steel lever and springs in vinegar or anything that would have removed the protective plating from those parts, no matter how much grease or oil you put on them, they will rust and be unsightly and maybe reduce their function because of the rust. if you want them to look new, buy new ones and I feel that the springs are a throwaway idem, just replace them with new ones while you are rebuilding and going through all the bother. also, when it comes to o-rings when removing them brass o-ring pick is the best way to protect the sealing surface while removing them, Idk what you used, however, just a suggestion to think about. when reinstalling o-rings, I use dow corning mollycoat 55-M grease, it is made for 0-rings, silicone-based grease will make them swell and maybe a source of malfunctions later with the carburetor. I wasn't finding fault with your video, just a few suggestions, I found the video informative and well done, there were just a few things I would have done differently, So, peace out -Dave
Thanks for the comment and good suggestions! You are right about the vinegar. Although vinegar is a good rust remover, it seems to promote rust on steel as soon as you remove the item from the vinegar and clean it off. I've since started using a weak solution of phosphoric acid instead of vinegar (sold at Home Depot as concrete cleaner). I still use vinegar on heavy rust, but afterwards I immediately electroplate the item with a zinc coating. Yes, new parts are nice; however, as long as the old parts are not too rusted and damaged, they can be re-used if treated properly. I do use a piece of old sharpened coat hanger (brass hanger) to remove old o-rings. However, as my memory goes, the o-rings on these carbs were so old/brittle, I simply scratched them off with my fingernail. They crumbled and broke off easily. Looks like the Mollykoat 55-M you mentioned is still silicone oil based (according to it's MSDS); however it also includes Lithium. I'll probably get some and try it out. Thanks again!
Thank You! One down one to go :-)
Nice job! You did not mentioned much on the springs you added over the diaphragm. Could you tell more please?
Thanks! The part# for the springs is BMW #13 11 1 338 134. These springs were used on 1985 & newer airheads, in both 40mm & 32mm carbs. This bike is running fine and the carbs (& springs) are working great. If I ever find time, I'll make a follow up video.
VERY Helpful..Clint Eastwood Rebuilds His Bings...Hahahaha...you almost put me to sleep, Bohdi...which is Good...It's midnight !
Yep, u speak out what i was thinking! Great man!
Thank you very, very much for this video. BIG help in my first rebuild!! Do you know approx standard length of needles (in 3rd position) for 40mm carb?
Thanks! I'm glad this video helped. Unfortunately, I don't know the length of the needle from the slide on the 40mm Bings (in the third slot). If you're careful, after three clicks, you should be good.
It worked. THANK YOU very much again!
Thanks so much! Any word on the performance of the added springs?
+nigel p Not yet. The R75/5 these carbs go on is still in parts. I hope to have this bike back on the road soon though. And, I will update this video with info regarding the carbs performance. Thanks for watching!
Hi, and thank you for the video. I am in process of replacing my needles in my 32mm Bings. You mention that the small retaining wires aren't visible, but they are when looking down the tube from the top after the needle is removed. On mine, one set of wires is clearly not right. Is there anything that can be done to fix this? Thanks.
Thanks for the vids!! I am about to do this. What solution did you use in the ultrasonic cleaner?
You are welcome and good question! These old carbs are mostly aluminum and you need to use a cleaner that will not damage it. I use a diluted solution of the Simple green Pro HD (purple stuff) that you can buy at most hardware stores and water. Good luck!
Could you make a video syncing the carbs, adjusting the throttle cables, choke cable, and adjusting the throttle on handle bar ?
Unfortunately, I am in the middle of big move and it will take me a while to get setup in my new location. I do plan to make a video like this. However, it may be a several weeks from now.
All good. I will wait till you post it up. I replaced my throttle cables and can't seem to get them back on right. So take your time, I appreciate you making videos educating me on the R75/5
Would love to know how to tune the carburetor after installing it... I just can't get the point :(
Question? (R75/7) if carbs are running too rich (air mix screw 1/4 out) would the next step be adjusting the needle height? would that be up or down a grove? thanks look forward to your comment.
Please make more videos
You got me to thinking we should have some lite oil in the gasoline to lubricate the carbs. I came down to marvel mystery oil or may 2 stroke oil. I think the mmo. Only a tiny bit. What do you think?
Please make more videos
Hi Morgan. I'm unsure myself about using a little oil in a fuel tank. I've used the Marvel Mystery oil in a car I had (because a friend gave me some). I don't remember any noticeable performance improvements to the car. A little oil may help the situation if you had sticky floats. However, since the fuel is atomized as soon as it leaves the float bowel, I'm not sure it would do much for the rest of the carb (maybe help lube the butterfly valve a little). I do use some of the fuel additives around and they do help. This bike is mostly finished. I am working on a couple electrical issues I will probably make a video about. Also have plans to redo the old seat that could make a decent video. Thanks for subscribing! You should get a notification when I get off my rear and make a new video!
Well done . . . thanks! Where did you get your rebuild kit? I have a Rotax 912 that uses 2 Bing 64 carbs. Yours look nearly identical to mine. One key difference is the floats. Your 2 floats per carb are molded to the metal bracket and have no keeper pin holding the fuel inlet needle. My 2 floats per carb are separate from the metal bracket that moves the floats, and has a keeper pin holding the fuel inlet needle. My style of floats has a bad history of sinking floats. So I am wondering if your floats will fit my carburetor and work better (not absorb fuel and sink). Rotax wants $200 for a set of my floats, so I'm looking for better, cheaper floats and new bowl gaskets. Thanks for any help!
You can get the carb float parts from MaxBMW's website. They have an excellent OEM parts lookup. The Bing 64s were used on the R80 & R90s I think. However, if you are talking about a Rotax aviation engine; the Bings used on those have the weird kind of floats for a reason. I'm no pilot (never took the test), but I have stalled a Cessna at over 10,000ft. You certainly don't want your engine to have a fuel issue when you are upside down at elevation. Being upside down on a motorcycle, the carbs are the least of your worries ;)
Can you comment on the purpose of the big washer beneath the main jet ?
Mines missing
Hi, thanks for putting these vids up, very helpful. I might have missed it, but how did you get the rusty centres of the carb tops so shiny and new looking? A.
+Alex Johns I skipped that part in the video. I polished the aluminum tops of the carbs using lots of elbow grease and metal polish. For the rusty steel centers of the carb tops, I used a steel wire cup in a dremel to knock the rust off (be careful to not scratch the aluminum). Then I used a small paintbrush to paint black enamel over the steel. The black enamel paint should keep rust away. Thanks for watching!
+Bodhi Bike Shop
Ah, the miraculous power of the Dremel! A.
I was able to extract the wire and keeper from the tube. Apparently it was misaligned due to rough pushing of the old needle.
Good catch! Getting that needle in/out can be a pain. Sounds like someone didn't use any oil in the past to help the needle slide between the wires.
Thanks for all the details on the 32 Bing rebuild. I wanted to ask, did you find the assist of the slide springs you installed to finally be an enhancement or a hindrance? I am restoring a '72 R75/5 SWB currently and wanted to know if it's worth installing those springs ( specifically BMW 13 11 1 338 134 ). Thanks again!
You're welcome; glad the video helped! Yes, the springs are working fine in the Bing 32s on my R75/5. I used those exact springs (13 11 1 338 134). I can't compare the performance (with vs. without springs) since I installed the springs before I got the engine running. However, I didn't like how slow the needle dropped, on it's own, on one carb and even seemed to bind a bit on occasion without spring assist. I ended up doing a little polishing on the bores and adding the springs. The carbs are working great. Good luck on your build!
Where did you buy the additional springs you added at the end for a smoother return to idle? Great video by the way!
Thanks! I bought the springs from MaxBMW. The R100RT (88-95) used 32mm Bing Carbs with these springs.
Did you put the float bowl and top part of the carb in the ultrasonic cleaner?
Yes, I placed all parts in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Is mate, is the r100 rs similar?, very in depth video, thx! Bob the Belgian...🇧🇪🍺
You're welcome! Yes, most of the Bing CV carbs are similar. The earlier R100RS (1977-1984) used similar 40mm Bing CV carbs. The 1988-1993 R100RS used newer Bing 32mm carbs, and I'm not familiar with them, but they look close enough that these videos should help. Good luck!
Bodhi Bike Shop , thank you friend! Great help!
Hi , got a BMW R80 GS (1994) , it started after 10 years , the right cylinder gets hot in less than a minute but the left one remains cold so i guess it's not working. I found out that the left cylinder starts heating only at high RPM (4000+).Have you got any sugestion please ? I have installed new sparking plugs , air filter , new engine oil and battery .
It certainly sounds like you have a dead cylinder (left cylinder). It's good that at least one cylinder is working, you can use that to troubleshoot. Warning: I'm not familiar with the newer airheads (90s), but I think they are all similar enough that my advice should help. I would:
1) Pull the spark plug wire off the dead left cylinder. Start the bike. Will probably sound exactly the same. This is just to confirm you have a dead left cylinder.
2) You know the right cylinder ignition system is working, and you have replaced the spark plugs, so try switching the spark plug wire from the good right cylinder and using it on the dead left cylinder. Try the known good coil as well.
3) Hopefully the bike will then start and run on the left cylinder. This will help you narrow down what component is bad without having to buy lots of new parts.
4) If the left cylinder will still not start working, start looking at the left side carburetor. This video should help.
5) An engine needs fuel (from the carbs), air (carbs again), spark (from the ignition), and compression (test the compression using a tester, very low compression in the left cylinder could also be the cause) in order to run.
Good Luck!
@@bodhibikeshop8701 thank you
Hi. I'd like to ask where you got the SS screw kit and the other parts from?
The SS screw kit is from BMWHucky (He has some nice kits - makes it easy). Some other parts are from MaxBMW (best OEM parts lookup online - and the M&Ms are a nice touch). Also lots of Ebay bargain shopping. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Thanks very much! What's the m&ms though?
MaxBMW usually includes a small pack of M&Ms candy in every box.
How’s the spring for the slide?
The springs are working great! No hesitation in throttle response or return to idle. Hopefully, I can make a follow-up video soon.
Very helpful!!!