Thanks Brook! Note: my 32mm carbs on 84 R65 have a circlip holdin the jet needle. There is a screw plug that must be removed to remove the jet needle. When I saw how easy Brandon pulled and the needle slid out, I checked the other end and noticed a slotted head. Unscrewed it. Voila the jet came out after the plug. Great that you are continuing to document your experiences and passing it on to Brandon too.
Brook, I have a set of 64/32/323 & 324 from an '81 R80 G/S. Is there any benefit to changing from the old style needles (with clips) and slides to the new style? Also, when, if ever, would it be necessary to replace all the jets, mixing screw and float needle? I am currently rebuilding them now. Thx.
Very informative tutorial. If I may make a minor comment, it could use a few words on float alignment. With the carb upside down, the float should be parallel to the edge where the float bowl rests. I suspect it is more important that the two floats (L and R) be lined up the same than to have them perfectly parallel, but I'm not sure. Anyway, I would recommend checking the alignment of the two floats side by side to make sure they match, As far as the procedure, when upside-down, the float is held up by the needle. Therefore, any misalignment can be corrected by bending the tab to which the needle is attached until the desired orientation is achieved. Important: make micro-adjustsments and be patient! I believe there are tools that can be purchased for the specific purpose of measuring float alignment, but they aren't much better than the naked eye. (Just an opinion) Brook, please correct me if I'm wrong.
Thanks for the comment. My method of getting the floats adjusted is after they are mounted. I turn the fuel on with the float all the way up. Then I lower it until fuel starts dripping. I adjust the float tab so the dripping occurs with the edge of the float parallel to the bottom of the carb.
@@nigehaworth Yes, it can cause a leak if it's far out of adjustment. That said, the issue is to have the correct fuel level in the float bowl so the carbs work correctly and don't get fuel starved when the throttle is wide open.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks Brook, I had my carbs refurbished and whilst they function well I have a leak on both carbs when the engine is off, until I turn the fuel taps off. I’m suspecting the floats are set at the wrong height.
WildlifeMoto, yes I have a new project to work on, a 1973 R75/5 rebuild. That said, I plan to use it to conduct Tech Classes for my Airheads Beemer Club-Colorado friends. So, I don't know how much video I will produce. We shall see.
Great video. Thank you. It gave me the confidence to begin this much needed project on my 84 R100RS. It sounds like you submerged the entire carb body into the can of carb cleaner? No concerns about that damaging the plastic "plaque" on the carb body? Thanks! -mark
Hey, Brook. Your video is really informative. Are you open to doing any product review? I was thinking of inviting you to do a product review for our portable air pump.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage l thought so, that being said. Your video on the Bing carburetor rebuild was one of the most thorough I have ever seen. Thanks for sharing 👍
Hey Brook, thanks for the video. Always nice to have a Bing rebuild refresher course. On CV Bings not previously fitted with the diaphragm return springs, would you add one if you had the chance, or do you think the change is negligible?
Very well done. One critical piece that is missing is to check the float level is correct. Per the Bing manual this level check requires holding the carb body at a 15 degree angle to insure the seam of the float is parallel to the carb body. One cannot assume that the tab on the float is set correctly.
Michael, I set the float height when I mount the carbs. I turn the fuel on and drop the float until the top edge of the float is even with the bottom edge of the float bowl. I make sure no fuel is flowing. Then I drop the float just a bit and ensure fuel starts flowing. That's why I didn't show setting the float height during the carburetor rebuild.
Very useful video. A tip: When loosening/tightening the big nut on the "choke" (aka Starting Carb) actuator shaft be careful not to apply pressure on the little aluminum range limiting posts -- they are relatively fragile and if broken could mean replacement of the carb body ($$$). Better to hold the actuator arm with pliers while you turn the big nut.
Very thorough and informative video. Thanks for making this. I just got my old R75/5 back after more than ten years and it's got a rusty tank and leaking carbs. It's been sitting far too long. This video will be a great resource for getting it going again.
Godbless you for this video. It is so hard to find well done instructional videos on things like these. No extra fluff just straight to the point. Very thorough. And great explanations on not just what needs done , but why it needs done. Thank you.
I see quite a lot on airhead forums about not using the shorting method with ‘modern’ electronic ignition due to risk of damage to components. Any comments ?
Lesley, you have to ensure the grounding spoke+plug screw top are tight and fit snuggly in the spark plug cap. It helps if you put a groove in the unthreaded end of the spoke so it engages the internal spark plug cap clip.
This detailed production was timely as my 904 Bing sprung a leak needing an o ring on the idle jet Kits do not describe which O ring fits what Jet This video does !
Thanks Brook! Note: my 32mm carbs on 84 R65 have a circlip holdin the jet needle. There is a screw plug that must be removed to remove the jet needle. When I saw how easy Brandon pulled and the needle slid out, I checked the other end and noticed a slotted head. Unscrewed it. Voila the jet came out after the plug.
Great that you are continuing to document your experiences and passing it on to Brandon too.
Brook, I have a set of 64/32/323 & 324 from an '81 R80 G/S. Is there any benefit to changing from the old style needles (with clips) and slides to the new style? Also, when, if ever, would it be necessary to replace all the jets, mixing screw and float needle? I am currently rebuilding them now. Thx.
Very informative tutorial. If I may make a minor comment, it could use a few words on float alignment. With the carb upside down, the float should be parallel to the edge where the float bowl rests. I suspect it is more important that the two floats (L and R) be lined up the same than to have them perfectly parallel, but I'm not sure. Anyway, I would recommend checking the alignment of the two floats side by side to make sure they match, As far as the procedure, when upside-down, the float is held up by the needle. Therefore, any misalignment can be corrected by bending the tab to which the needle is attached until the desired orientation is achieved. Important: make micro-adjustsments and be patient! I believe there are tools that can be purchased for the specific purpose of measuring float alignment, but they aren't much better than the naked eye. (Just an opinion)
Brook, please correct me if I'm wrong.
If that alignment of the floats is incorrect, would that cause a fuel leak from the carb?
Thanks for the comment. My method of getting the floats adjusted is after they are mounted. I turn the fuel on with the float all the way up. Then I lower it until fuel starts dripping. I adjust the float tab so the dripping occurs with the edge of the float parallel to the bottom of the carb.
@@nigehaworth Yes, it can cause a leak if it's far out of adjustment. That said, the issue is to have the correct fuel level in the float bowl so the carbs work correctly and don't get fuel starved when the throttle is wide open.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks Brook, I had my carbs refurbished and whilst they function well I have a leak on both carbs when the engine is off, until I turn the fuel taps off. I’m suspecting the floats are set at the wrong height.
@@nigehaworth I'd also check the float bowl vent tube to be sure it's clear.
Great video as always. With your last bike complete, are you planning a new project soon?
WildlifeMoto, yes I have a new project to work on, a 1973 R75/5 rebuild. That said, I plan to use it to conduct Tech Classes for my Airheads Beemer Club-Colorado friends. So, I don't know how much video I will produce. We shall see.
Your videos are always a pleasure to look at. Thank you for your effort! Greetings from Germany.
Thank you Lupo. 🙂
Great video. Thank you. It gave me the confidence to begin this much needed project on my 84 R100RS. It sounds like you submerged the entire carb body into the can of carb cleaner? No concerns about that damaging the plastic "plaque" on the carb body? Thanks! -mark
Hey, Brook. Your video is really informative. Are you open to doing any product review? I was thinking of inviting you to do a product review for our portable air pump.
Thanks for asking, but I don’t wish to do a product review
One of the best BMW carb rebuild video's, you kept calling fuel enrichment, choke. It is a fuel an enrichment circuit, correct ?
Yes BMW calls it enrichment. That said, it operates as a separate carburetor.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage l thought so, that being said. Your video on the Bing carburetor rebuild was one of the most thorough I have ever seen. Thanks for sharing 👍
The clearest video, thanks. I have an R80 ST with a Sibenrock 1000cc conversion with dual sparks.
Thank you Seth. 🙂
Hey Brook, thanks for the video. Always nice to have a Bing rebuild refresher course.
On CV Bings not previously fitted with the diaphragm return springs, would you add one if you had the chance, or do you think the change is negligible?
I think the spring improves carb performance even on earlier ones that didn't come with the spring
Very well done. One critical piece that is missing is to check the float level is correct. Per the Bing manual this level check requires holding the carb body at a 15 degree angle to insure the seam of the float is parallel to the carb body. One cannot assume that the tab on the float is set correctly.
Michael, I set the float height when I mount the carbs. I turn the fuel on and drop the float until the top edge of the float is even with the bottom edge of the float bowl. I make sure no fuel is flowing. Then I drop the float just a bit and ensure fuel starts flowing. That's why I didn't show setting the float height during the carburetor rebuild.
Very useful video. A tip: When loosening/tightening the big nut on the "choke" (aka Starting Carb) actuator shaft be careful not to apply pressure on the little aluminum range limiting posts -- they are relatively fragile and if broken could mean replacement of the carb body ($$$). Better to hold the actuator arm with pliers while you turn the big nut.
Good Advice, But I have a calibrated hand so I just snug it up without too much force. 🙂
Very thorough and informative video. Thanks for making this. I just got my old R75/5 back after more than ten years and it's got a rusty tank and leaking carbs. It's been sitting far too long. This video will be a great resource for getting it going again.
Brian, I'm pleased you are going to get another airhead back on the road. Cool beans. 🙂
So helpful. As a new vintage BMW Airhead owner, your videos help me gain enough confidence to play it by myself.
You’re welcome Adam 😊
Hi brook!
Are the components of the rebuild kit interchangeable between size 40 and 32? What are they?
Some are, some are not. Visit my website (brook.reams.me) and you will see the appropriate part numbers
Godbless you for this video. It is so hard to find well done instructional videos on things like these. No extra fluff just straight to the point. Very thorough. And great explanations on not just what needs done , but why it needs done. Thank you.
You’re welcome Alice 😊
I see quite a lot on airhead forums about not using the shorting method with ‘modern’ electronic ignition due to risk of damage to components. Any comments ?
Lesley, you have to ensure the grounding spoke+plug screw top are tight and fit snuggly in the spark plug cap. It helps if you put a groove in the unthreaded end of the spoke so it engages the internal spark plug cap clip.
merci beaucoup Mr Brook .
❤ all the help i get from you! Thanks for you
You're welcome. Glad this is useful for you. 🙂
Very well done👍 👍
Greetings from Norway❤
Thank you 🙂
This detailed production was timely as my 904 Bing sprung a leak needing an o ring on the idle jet
Kits do not describe which
O ring fits what Jet
This video does !