Question about the PowerHub 12V DC output. 1000W max output = 84A ......DC Panel is 70A max. The included DC Panel wiring is 6AWG good for 70A max. So how is the DC panel protected at 70A and still allow 84A of output on the DC out? You would guess that the PowerHub internals would have a 70A CB protecting the wiring to the DC Panel and therefore you would not get the full 1000W output capabilities of the inverter. You would need a 90A CB, and then have to bump all wire to 4AWG. Would you agree? 2nd thing. I noticed the Ring terminals on the DC output cable from Ecoflow are tiny, 4mm maybe? They should have made them 8mm like the Ecoflow Busbars all around so you didnt have to crimp anything. Do you recommend shortening up the cables they provide for less voltage drop? That DC Panel cable is like 10 feet long!
The output of the power hub, when set to "12V", is a regulated 13.6V. At 70A that's approximately 952W. The DC panel is protected through the internal electronics and voltage regulator for the DC out. It's all constantly being monitored, so when the power exceeds 1000W on the DC output, the hub will disable DC output and log an error. Seeing as the DC output is 13.6V, it's not necessary to shorten the cable to reduce voltage drop as it will not be significant enough to impact low voltage cut-off functions on 12V DC appliances. However, when it comes to having a clean and tidy install, shortening the cable is preferred by most.
@@rackupgo I see the trickery there with the higher voltage. Thanks for the info. Makes sense that they made the wires only long enough and sized so that they can handle the voltage drop. For my case, the alternator input cable was already a pre-run number 2/0, so I did shorten up that cable. And then to have circuits on the DC panel larger than 20 amps, I added a blue sea hub 150 which takes midi fuses up to 200 amps for auxiliary stuff like larger exterior lighting and stereo amplifiers. I was able to cut that cable in half and use 1/2 to the blue sea and the other half to the DC panel. Worked out well.
Hello, first of all, thanks for this video it helps a lot. I didn't know that Ecoflow had busbars because I couldn't find it on their site. I would like to know what 80 amp fuse you use on your positive going to the AC unit. I plan on setting up a Cruise N Comfort HD Mini Split System Air Conditioner system in mine which is up to 55amps from what I have seen. Also, do you plan on ever making a video showing how to connect the alternator cable? I am not sure what the best practice is as far as running it directly to the batteries or straight to the alternator, let alone if I need anything else except the cable going from the alternator/batteries to the hub itself (60amps).
Regarding your fuse question, we recommend an 80A fuse. Regarding your alternator video question, we may do a video on it soon, but nothing confirmed yet unfortunately. For this, we also recommend an 80A inline fuse to protect the wiring and hub.
So you also recommend an 80am inline fuse for the alternator connection? If the hub has a built in 60amp fuse, how would we go about adding an 80amp inline for it? alternator cable to inline to batteries/alternator? Thanks.@@rackupgo
the hub doesn't have a built-in 60A fuse for the alternator charging, it has a 60A limit which is electronically controlled via the software logic. In order to protect the hub, we recommend an 80A in-line fuse on the positive lead of the alternator charging harness.
Thanks for the info, I just assumed the port would limit the amount of power coming in at 60amps. What if I decide to connect it to the batteries instead of alternator is it the same process? inline fuse on positive lead then connected to positive on battery?@@rackupgo
Same situation, an inline fuse on the positive lead. The EcoFlow hub will limit the current coming in, but if anything should happen, either a hardware or software fault, it's better to protect the circuit with an inline fuse and physically break the connection.
links to he bus bars please
rackupgo.com/products/lfp-battery-terminal-busbar
the power kit is 48v and you stated the AC is 12v right? how are you stepping the voltage down then in that setup?
The Power Kit has a built-in DC-DC converter and is capable of outputting 1000W at 12V.
Question about the PowerHub 12V DC output. 1000W max output = 84A ......DC Panel is 70A max. The included DC Panel wiring is 6AWG good for 70A max. So how is the DC panel protected at 70A and still allow 84A of output on the DC out? You would guess that the PowerHub internals would have a 70A CB protecting the wiring to the DC Panel and therefore you would not get the full 1000W output capabilities of the inverter. You would need a 90A CB, and then have to bump all wire to 4AWG. Would you agree?
2nd thing. I noticed the Ring terminals on the DC output cable from Ecoflow are tiny, 4mm maybe? They should have made them 8mm like the Ecoflow Busbars all around so you didnt have to crimp anything.
Do you recommend shortening up the cables they provide for less voltage drop? That DC Panel cable is like 10 feet long!
The output of the power hub, when set to "12V", is a regulated 13.6V. At 70A that's approximately 952W. The DC panel is protected through the internal electronics and voltage regulator for the DC out. It's all constantly being monitored, so when the power exceeds 1000W on the DC output, the hub will disable DC output and log an error. Seeing as the DC output is 13.6V, it's not necessary to shorten the cable to reduce voltage drop as it will not be significant enough to impact low voltage cut-off functions on 12V DC appliances. However, when it comes to having a clean and tidy install, shortening the cable is preferred by most.
@@rackupgo I see the trickery there with the higher voltage. Thanks for the info. Makes sense that they made the wires only long enough and sized so that they can handle the voltage drop. For my case, the alternator input cable was already a pre-run number 2/0, so I did shorten up that cable. And then to have circuits on the DC panel larger than 20 amps, I added a blue sea hub 150 which takes midi fuses up to 200 amps for auxiliary stuff like larger exterior lighting and stereo amplifiers. I was able to cut that cable in half and use 1/2 to the blue sea and the other half to the DC panel. Worked out well.
Hello, first of all, thanks for this video it helps a lot. I didn't know that Ecoflow had busbars because I couldn't find it on their site. I would like to know what 80 amp fuse you use on your positive going to the AC unit. I plan on setting up a Cruise N Comfort HD Mini Split System Air Conditioner system in mine which is up to 55amps from what I have seen.
Also, do you plan on ever making a video showing how to connect the alternator cable? I am not sure what the best practice is as far as running it directly to the batteries or straight to the alternator, let alone if I need anything else except the cable going from the alternator/batteries to the hub itself (60amps).
Regarding your fuse question, we recommend an 80A fuse.
Regarding your alternator video question, we may do a video on it soon, but nothing confirmed yet unfortunately. For this, we also recommend an 80A inline fuse to protect the wiring and hub.
So you also recommend an 80am inline fuse for the alternator connection? If the hub has a built in 60amp fuse, how would we go about adding an 80amp inline for it? alternator cable to inline to batteries/alternator? Thanks.@@rackupgo
the hub doesn't have a built-in 60A fuse for the alternator charging, it has a 60A limit which is electronically controlled via the software logic. In order to protect the hub, we recommend an 80A in-line fuse on the positive lead of the alternator charging harness.
Thanks for the info, I just assumed the port would limit the amount of power coming in at 60amps. What if I decide to connect it to the batteries instead of alternator is it the same process? inline fuse on positive lead then connected to positive on battery?@@rackupgo
Same situation, an inline fuse on the positive lead. The EcoFlow hub will limit the current coming in, but if anything should happen, either a hardware or software fault, it's better to protect the circuit with an inline fuse and physically break the connection.