Gas cans used to come with vents. Then the EPA decided that was bad, and mandated no more vents. Next up we have these carb compliant nozzles that just make spilling fuel more likely during fueling than it ever was by accident with the old nozzles....
I have to use a five gallon container to put in one gallon. The first time I used a new can I blew gas all over the place. The gas pumps pump too fast.
Mike, I like your tip on installing a vent in the fuel tank but I went with a much "lower tech" solution: I simply drilled a hole the diameter of the smaller tapered end of a smooth-sided (non-ribbed) wire nut, where you drilled your hole, and poked the wire nut into the tank. Did this several years ago and -- so far, anyway -- the plug still works well. I even get a slight hiss when I pull out the plug to fill up the mower, so I know I've not losing any significant amount of fuel through evaporation.
When I drilled my cans I stuck an air hose with a small amount of air flowing(it doesn’t take much) and a rag over the can opening to create positive pressure. When you drill the air escaping keeps most of the chips from falling into the can.
@@lestergillis8171 you can hold the can upside down, but chips are still going to be in the can. As the drill bit spins it's still going to fling chips in the can.
Great idea! The only problem I see with it is making sure you get all the bits of HDPE plastic out of the inside of the can. I do not think that dumping a little fuel on the ground after drilling it would do that. I recommend after filling the can with fuel that you fuel your machine through a funnel with a fine metal screen until you empty it.
And all you need to do is drill an appropriate sized hole and snap it in with no valve stem cap to lose. I’ve even put them on my 5 gallon pails to prevent the surging that occurs without them.
Tractor Supply also sells "E-Z POUR" spouts. These are cool as Hell, the spout has 2 nut's, the vent/cap, cap for the spout, with a dooh-dah to attatch the cap to the spout so it's not lost. Only issue I've encountered is the black nut, which is for "Blitz" brand cans. It doesn't fit the threads on the can too closely, as it should, and so doesn't tighten enough to seal very well, particularly when the spout is flexed at a sharp angle. The remedy is, to take the cap from the original stupid spout, and use it with the flex spout. There's all kind of accessories, adapters, replacement part's available from the manufacturer. I have two, one with the unleaded tip, the other with 7/8" spout. This has a screw on extension. About 15.00 ea. It needs a half inch hole for the vent, strongly advises the use of a 1/2" taper reamer for this to ensure the hole is round.
I put a self tapping screw with a rubber washer in mine. It seals and when I pour I just loosen the screw a couple rounds to unseat the washer and viola
The wire technique for getting the fitting in the inside of the can is genius. I use the same valve on my pump sprayer so I can charge the sprayer with my air compressor (regulator set to 5 psi) instead of all the pumping.
You could put some heavy grease on the flutes of the bit before drilling and drill slowly and most of the time you won’t get any shavings going in the tank.
I drilled a hole the size of a roofing nail. Wrap some Teflon tape on a roofing nail. Plug the hole with the nail to seal and remove to pour. It has never leaked after dozens of removal cycles.
Nice work. When I fill our gas cans, I run a bungee cord from the hook near the back of the bed, through the handles, then hook the opposite side. Keeps them in the truck right at the tail gate for when u arrive at the gas station and place them on the ground for filling. Do the same for the return trip, the bungee keeps them upright and right along the tailgate. Go Redbirds.
OMG!!! This has been a gripe for years! I wanted to do something like this forever with all my cans but just couldn't figure out how to get the damn thing in place from INSIDE! The solution I came up with was to simply drill a 1/8" hole and cover it with blue, removable masking tape with an end folded over as a tab. I'd peel it back to expose the hole then reseal it. It worked fine and the tape lasts quite a while but it's not too elegant. Now I feel STUPID that I didn't think of this! Gotta do this to all my jerry cans now. Thanks Mike!!!
I used the bicycle tire Presta valve for get 1/4" hose to fuel tank. Its butyl (commonly used in tires not work with fuels) rubber and inner parts must be remove and use NBR seals and washers. Its cap work for plug.
I hate those CARB compliant pour spout! One time the spring loaded tab on the spout broke and fell in the tank while pouring. Luckily I was able to fish it out after pumping the fuel back into the can. Otherwise I had to dismantle the tank. I thought of doing similar venting but after that accident I do not want to lift the can over the fuel hole. It is also heavy and difficult to lift 30 lbs of fuel above the tractor and keep it steady. I tried siphon tube (one with a back flow prevention ball at the end that goes into the gas can.) But I still have to lift the can on top of the tractor hood. I now use a battery operated fuel transfer pump, about $10. Easy, put the can on the tractor floor and switch it on.
I put vent caps on all my gas cans. Got them off Amazon, for under a dollar each. The drilling on plastic really doesn't produce shavings, just large chunks that are easily removed. I put my vents on the top right side of the can, avoiding the seam, and easily opened and closed while dumping fuel. I heard the fuel vapors will deteriorate the rubber in valve stems.
Thanks Mike, I've seen that, also have done it to a couple of my cans. Just so you know Amazon (along with other places) sells those little yellow vents with caps. Amazon price (as I am posting this) is 5 vents for $5.49, just thought I'd let you know.
I'm a old tractor owner working in the hills of southeastern ohio. With a 1948 M Farmall tricycle front end. It's all drag type equipment. We widen the rear tires and the front being solid works well in these hills we also have wheel weights on the back. But you always make sure to never work your tractor faster then you can think. Be careful out there and always remember the highway is not a play ground.
I've done the same thing with a few of my gas cans only I'm not near as technical as you. I just drill a small hole and then insert a small clean stick slightly larger than the hole. Pull it out when I need to pour gas. Easy peasy. No expense.
I came up with this same idea a few years ago, and installed the tire valves in the same manner using a length of stiff wire. I did make sure to rinse the tanks 2 or 3 times to get out any debris created by drilling the plastic. Venting the fuel containers helps a lot to speed up the fuel discharge, and fueling my tractor and riding mower goes even faster with the addition of EZ-Pour Hi-Flo spouts on all of my fuel cans. The EZ Pour spouts are not exactly cheap, at $13 to $15 each, but they do seem to allow a higher flow rate.
Just used this mod for 3 5 gal diesel cans. New regs add a screen filter that needs to be removed with needle nose pliers. You can reinstall afterwards. A good funnel with the added vent will allow you to fuel without those irritating can spigots.
This is a matter of process, but I use these same type cans for boat gas. The only thing is I fully invert the can to fill and let the bulk of the weight rest on the nozzle while filling. Of course, this does take some time. If installing this vent could no longer invert can I would assume and have to hold the can as normal. May experiment on one can first. Thanks.
A money saving device batteries are expensive. I only use when power is not available even then I would use gas over battery if possible. I know they don't make a gas powered hand drill. But for something like my hedge trimmers I have electric ones I have a gas powered one but I don't have one with a battery. I do have a battery power drill but I prefer the corded one when I can use it.
Thanks for the video Mike. Got my HALTEC 575's in the mail yesterday. Gonna install some this Thanksgiving week and save the rest for when the yellow plastic vents stop sealing. They tend to pop open when the cans are closed up in the cool evening and then the barn heats up. The valve stems wont do that. Thanks for the tip!!
Nice trick with the wire. Wonder if you drill the hole with the can upside down and put a chop vac hose on the hole if the suction with take any shavings out?
Be careful with that drill around gas cans that may be pressurized with fumes. The windings inside the drill housing spark up when in rotation....go fire up your drill in a dark room. Same thing with not using a vacuum cleaner to get up spilled gun powder out of carpet on the floor or work bench. Nice mod...definitely going to put some on mine.
I did this with rubber valve stems and didn't think to use metal ones until a few months went by and the rubber just got eaten up by the fuel. Good fix..
I have the cans with the green button for my 2 cycles. You just press the button to fuel. My problem is the cans swell or the sides suck in. I took a dremel tool and drilled a 1/32" hole in the handle. Expanding or shrinking issue is gone. 🐀🐾
Another great degreaser is scrubbing bubbles. When my honey is done cleaning the shower I use it to degrease my oil drain pan and 2 stroke lawn tools. And for the vent I drill a hole and plug it with a roofing nail.
I am a Christian and do constantly monitor my vocabulary for profanity, I loose the battle every time I use the five gallon gas cans with diesel fuel for my tractor. This is a great idea! It also speaks to the intellect and confidence of the average guy out there in America who know how to fix their own stuff. So much for "toxic masculinity", so called.
Similar solution. I drilled a hole in the can and plugged it with a smooth-sided but tapered wire nut. I know it works 'cause I can hear the hiss when I pull it out to pour.
Great video. No vent cans are frustrating. I had made a vent on mine using a coarse thread automotive fastener that self tapped, but I like this idea better.
Great idea --- One thing to check after using a can for a few years especially with diesel fuel is mold . I have had to clean mine out with bleach and a little water , and rinse out real good let dry in the sun until good and dry .
There are less expensive options besides a metal tire valve stem. Plenty of plastic vent caps installed after drilling a hole by a press fit from the outside.
I don't like the new fuel containers since it is very difficult to get the fuel into your tractor and I have two John Deere tractors and they both have the tank in front of the drivers seat and you have to get up and fuel it from on the hood using a siphon hose or do it manually. I don't know why they couldn't put the fuel tanks at a different position on my tractors, especially my newer one. I like the modification you made on your fuel containers and that looks great.
Great tip and durable. You can buy these online in yellow plastic. The plastic ones pop in from the outside, form a tight seal, and include a cap. I found 10 of them for 7 or 8 dollars. Same concept, lots easier.
I use those fuel siphon pumps. They are awesome! A full 5 gal can with those new spouts are difficult. Put the pump in the can fill the gas tank...Under $10 at Harbor Freight
Too easy! Big grin as I read this! At 80 yrs old and beginning signs of Parkinson’s Disease I have real struggle with lifting full 5 gal cans anymore and sucking gas thru a rubber hose was never my favorite game! I’m heading to Harbor Freight today!! Thank you! Jim Baines Texas
I used the caulking gun size tube plastic screw in plugs. They're threaded, and have a small tip, expanding to 3/8". They're cheap, found everywhere, even Harbor Freight carry's them. A vent on a 5 gallon can should be at least 1/4" dia., 3/8" dia., is better. Unless you like holding a heavy ass can in awkward positions for a long time. While the fuel trickles out.
Thank you!!!!! I was hating life every time I refueled the tractor. I installed the valves on all my cans and it works great! Thank you Mike I’m definitely sharing your vid 👍
Great idea. Thanks so much for sharing it, Mike! I have a few old tanks that would benefit from both "fixes". And I'm glad I got to see it before some tree-hugger reports the video for your "environmental abuse", pouring out the gas. :-) We could see it was a tiny amount, of course. I'll be curious to see how long before one will ask, "why couldn't you just put water in there instead to catch the filings?"...and I'll bet they've never had to drain water from a fuel filter. :-)
You can duty the original yellow plastic vents on eBay from reliable tractor parts drill a hole push em in and cheaper I bought 20 of em so I’ll always have replacements
Why not just use the yellow vents? .20 a piece, they pop right in and have a cap. I put 2 in each can with an Ez Flow spout. Can turn a can upside down and empty it in under a minute
That rubber washer is going to dissolve in the gas or diesel. Get some nylon washers (or HPDE) and replace the rubber ones with those or you'll wreck your gas. (Rubber will dissolve very fast if IN the gas, but the fumes will also destroy them, it just takes a little longer. )
I've used this to make aux fuel tanks for temporary testing and repair of small engines. of course the valve is at the bottom. the rubber doesn't stand up to the fuel. perhaps as a vent this won't be a problem. consider replacing the rubber with material made the withstand the fuel used.
David, sorry, I've never had to do that. Google "fuel tank removal on IH674" and you'll probably find a video on it. Here's a link to Case IH's parts website where you can view a schematic of the fuel tank and how it's held on, which should help: www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/caseih/. Just click "Model name" and put in 674 and you can see every part on the tractor. Good luck!
You can buy can vents online that pop in from the outside. Are those rubber grommets gas resistant? Doubtful. Love the part where you dump gas on the ground. And they complain about fracking.
I've achieved the same goal by drilling a small hole in the tank then putting a stick in it when not pouring. Way cheaper. I've even used a picket knife to make my hole. This is a clever idea even if I don't think it is worth the time and effort.
the gaskets on the air vents are Epdm rubber which means they deteriorate in oil based , kerosene, gas....trade the gromments for a nitrile buna -N type gasket or fuel hose cut to fit. Sure as a vent it won't sit in the fuel but I suggest replacing at least the inner grommet if not both.
Yeah, you can debur with a little debur tool, rinse them out with the hose, drain and leave in the hot sun for a short time and all the water is all gone!
Fuel deteriorates the o-ring in the valve cap and the bolt on valve stem seals that I bought. Different part # than yours. Leaving leaving bits of material in the can and then leaks. How are yours holding up?
I just drilled a smaller hole to fit one of those golf Ts like my bank gives away and just push and pull it in and out to vent the tank, oh and since all of my equipment have fuel filters and my hole was much smaller I did not bother with spilling it on the driveway.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Gas cans used to come with vents. Then the EPA decided that was bad, and mandated no more vents. Next up we have these carb compliant nozzles that just make spilling fuel more likely during fueling than it ever was by accident with the old nozzles....
I have to use a five gallon container to put in one gallon. The first time I used a new can I blew gas all over the place. The gas pumps pump too fast.
Mike, I like your tip on installing a vent in the fuel tank but I went with a much "lower tech" solution: I simply drilled a hole the diameter of the smaller tapered end of a smooth-sided (non-ribbed) wire nut, where you drilled your hole, and poked the wire nut into the tank. Did this several years ago and -- so far, anyway -- the plug still works well. I even get a slight hiss when I pull out the plug to fill up the mower, so I know I've not losing any significant amount of fuel through evaporation.
When I drilled my cans I stuck an air hose with a small amount of air flowing(it doesn’t take much) and a rag over the can opening to create positive pressure. When you drill the air escaping keeps most of the chips from falling into the can.
Not a bad idea, but you can always hold the can upside down.
@@lestergillis8171 you can hold the can upside down, but chips are still going to be in the can. As the drill bit spins it's still going to fling chips in the can.
Excellent idea. I need to use that air pressure drill method for making my ethanol separator.
Oooo, great idea!
Yeah I just hooked a shop vac to the Blow air into the fill hole And push the chips out past the drill.
Great idea! The only problem I see with it is making sure you get all the bits of HDPE plastic out of the inside of the can. I do not think that dumping a little fuel on the ground after drilling it would do that. I recommend after filling the can with fuel that you fuel your machine through a funnel with a fine metal screen until you empty it.
Tractor Supply sells the yellow vents as replacements for water jugs.
^ This is the best way to go.
A lot of those are junk.
And all you need to do is drill an appropriate sized hole and snap it in with no valve stem cap to lose. I’ve even put them on my 5 gallon pails to prevent the surging that occurs without them.
Tractor Supply also sells "E-Z POUR" spouts. These are cool as Hell, the spout has 2 nut's, the vent/cap, cap for the spout, with a dooh-dah to attatch the cap to the spout so it's not lost.
Only issue I've encountered is the black nut, which is for "Blitz" brand cans. It doesn't fit the threads on the can too closely, as it should, and so doesn't tighten enough to seal very well, particularly when the spout is flexed at a sharp angle. The remedy is, to take the cap from the original stupid spout, and use it with the flex spout.
There's all kind of accessories, adapters, replacement part's available from the manufacturer.
I have two, one with the unleaded tip, the other with 7/8" spout. This has a screw on extension. About 15.00 ea.
It needs a half inch hole for the vent, strongly advises the use of a 1/2" taper reamer for this to ensure the hole is round.
I put a self tapping screw with a rubber washer in mine. It seals and when I pour I just loosen the screw a couple rounds to unseat the washer and viola
The wire technique for getting the fitting in the inside of the can is genius. I use the same valve on my pump sprayer so I can charge the sprayer with my air compressor (regulator set to 5 psi) instead of all the pumping.
You could put some heavy grease on the flutes of the bit before drilling and drill slowly and most of the time you won’t get any shavings going in the tank.
I drilled a hole the size of a roofing nail. Wrap some Teflon tape on a roofing nail. Plug the hole with the nail to seal and remove to pour. It has never leaked after dozens of removal cycles.
Just wanted to tell you that I finally got around to modify ing 3 containers. Worked like a charm.
Nice work. When I fill our gas cans, I run a bungee cord from the hook near the back of the bed, through the handles, then hook the opposite side. Keeps them in the truck right at the tail gate for when u arrive at the gas station and place them on the ground for filling. Do the same for the return trip, the bungee keeps them upright and right along the tailgate. Go Redbirds.
Wow, and just like that no more cursing when i pour my gas, neibors should love that
Try these 20 Yellow Fuel Gas Can Jug Vent Cap
www.walmart.com/ip/20-Yellow-Fuel-Gas-Can-Jug-Vent-Cap/245571842
OMG!!! This has been a gripe for years! I wanted to do something like this forever with all my cans but just couldn't figure out how to get the damn thing in place from INSIDE! The solution I came up with was to simply drill a 1/8" hole and cover it with blue, removable masking tape with an end folded over as a tab. I'd peel it back to expose the hole then reseal it. It worked fine and the tape lasts quite a while but it's not too elegant. Now I feel STUPID that I didn't think of this! Gotta do this to all my jerry cans now. Thanks Mike!!!
You can also use a brass double male 1/8 pipe thread and just screw it in, with a brass cap.
I used the bicycle tire Presta valve for get 1/4" hose to fuel tank. Its butyl (commonly used in tires not work with fuels) rubber and inner parts must be remove and use NBR seals and washers. Its cap work for plug.
I hate those CARB compliant pour spout! One time the spring loaded tab on the spout broke and fell in the tank while pouring. Luckily I was able to fish it out after pumping the fuel back into the can. Otherwise I had to dismantle the tank.
I thought of doing similar venting but after that accident I do not want to lift the can over the fuel hole. It is also heavy and difficult to lift 30 lbs of fuel above the tractor and keep it steady.
I tried siphon tube (one with a back flow prevention ball at the end that goes into the gas can.) But I still have to lift the can on top of the tractor hood.
I now use a battery operated fuel transfer pump, about $10. Easy, put the can on the tractor floor and switch it on.
I put vent caps on all my gas cans. Got them off Amazon, for under a dollar each. The drilling on plastic really doesn't produce shavings, just large chunks that are easily removed. I put my vents on the top right side of the can, avoiding the seam, and easily opened and closed while dumping fuel.
I heard the fuel vapors will deteriorate the rubber in valve stems.
Thanks Mike, I've seen that, also have done it to a couple of my cans. Just so you know Amazon (along with other places) sells those little yellow vents with caps. Amazon price (as I am posting this) is 5 vents for $5.49, just thought I'd let you know.
Amazon also sells E-Z Pour spouts.
I'm a old tractor owner working in the hills of southeastern ohio. With a 1948 M Farmall tricycle front end. It's all drag type equipment. We widen the rear tires and the front being solid works well in these hills we also have wheel weights on the back. But you always make sure to never work your tractor faster then you can think. Be careful out there and always remember the highway is not a play ground.
I've done the same thing with a few of my gas cans only I'm not near as technical as you. I just drill a small hole and then insert a small clean stick slightly larger than the hole. Pull it out when I need to pour gas. Easy peasy. No expense.
EZ-Flow offers a complete kit, with the spout, that helps with the newer spout tanks that have all that push button stuff.
Where can you buy the EZ-Flow kit?
I came up with this same idea a few years ago, and installed the tire valves in the same manner using a length of stiff wire. I did make sure to rinse the tanks 2 or 3 times to get out any debris created by drilling the plastic. Venting the fuel containers helps a lot to speed up the fuel discharge, and fueling my tractor and riding mower goes even faster with the addition of EZ-Pour Hi-Flo spouts on all of my fuel cans. The EZ Pour spouts are not exactly cheap, at $13 to $15 each, but they do seem to allow a higher flow rate.
Does the gas have any effect on the rubber of the valve?
I’ve been doing this for years but I just use a pull through valve stem it has made my life so much easier
Gas will degrade rubber valve stem
How does the rubber hold up, any degradation from the gasoline?
Just used this mod for 3 5 gal diesel cans. New regs add a screen filter that needs to be removed with needle nose pliers. You can reinstall afterwards.
A good funnel with the added vent will allow you to fuel without those irritating can spigots.
Great video. I bought some plastic vents that do the same thing but they are not as tight. I'm swapping them all out! Thanks.
Interesting tip and good problem solving. For drilling plastic, I prefer using a step bit for better results.
This is a matter of process, but I use these same type cans for boat gas. The only thing is I fully invert the can to fill and let the bulk of the weight rest on the nozzle while filling. Of course, this does take some time. If installing this vent could no longer invert can I would assume and have to hold the can as normal. May experiment on one can first. Thanks.
Fabulous. Was wondering how I’d fish that tire valve thru. Thank you
I was most curious about how you were going to feed it from inside the can. Brilliant!
Hey Mike what's that big long cord sticking out of the end of your drill where the battery goes in
A money saving device batteries are expensive. I only use when power is not available even then I would use gas over battery if possible. I know they don't make a gas powered hand drill. But for something like my hedge trimmers I have electric ones I have a gas powered one but I don't have one with a battery. I do have a battery power drill but I prefer the corded one when I can use it.
@@victorb145 they actually made a gas powered drill
@@victorb145 it's called a drillgine gas drill
Thanks for the video Mike. Got my HALTEC 575's in the mail yesterday. Gonna install some this Thanksgiving week and save the rest for when the yellow plastic vents stop sealing. They tend to pop open when the cans are closed up in the cool evening and then the barn heats up. The valve stems wont do that. Thanks for the tip!!
Tractor Supply sells a "replacement" nozze and ventl kit for fuel cans for around $10. Very easy to install and works great.
Nice trick with the wire. Wonder if you drill the hole with the can upside down and put a chop vac hose on the hole if the suction with take any shavings out?
Be careful with that drill around gas cans that may be pressurized with fumes. The windings inside the drill housing spark up when in rotation....go fire up your drill in a dark room. Same thing with not using a vacuum cleaner to get up spilled gun powder out of carpet on the floor or work bench. Nice mod...definitely going to put some on mine.
A plain old tire valve stem works too. Metal one is optional.
NAPA has the same valve under $3 Now I'm thinking of a way to tether the cap to the valve so it doesn't get lost!
This is the best fix I've seen yet.
Love the video is 0.453 or 0.625 closer to 1/2 inch hole you used .
I take the whole cap and spout off and use a giant funnel. It works great and no fuss.
Slickest thing I've seen since sliced bread, Thanks!
They make replacement standard yellow vent and cap combos. You can can get a bag of them for a couple bucks.
I did this with rubber valve stems and didn't think to use metal ones until a few months went by and the rubber just got eaten up by the fuel. Good fix..
I have the cans with the green button for my 2 cycles. You just press the button to fuel. My problem is the cans swell or the sides suck in. I took a dremel tool and drilled a 1/32" hole in the handle. Expanding or shrinking issue is gone. 🐀🐾
I like using the gas spout that you push the button on, they work real good and you do not get any gas on your hands, I get mine at a lawn mower shop.
Not having 3 hands, i use 2 hands to hold / tilt the can and don't need a third one to push a button ...
Another great degreaser is scrubbing bubbles. When my honey is done cleaning the shower I use it to degrease my oil drain pan and 2 stroke lawn tools. And for the vent I drill a hole and plug it with a roofing nail.
Hell I didn’t even drill it out I just hammered it in
I am a Christian and do constantly monitor my vocabulary for profanity, I loose the battle every time I use the five gallon gas cans with diesel fuel for my tractor. This is a great idea! It also speaks to the intellect and confidence of the average guy out there in America who know how to fix their own stuff. So much for "toxic masculinity", so called.
For a vent I drilled a little hole in my can and threaded a small screw in it.
Similar solution. I drilled a hole in the can and plugged it with a smooth-sided but tapered wire nut. I know it works 'cause I can hear the hiss when I pull it out to pour.
Very neat idea. Thanks Mike. I just hate that slurping sound.
Great video. No vent cans are frustrating. I had made a vent on mine using a coarse thread automotive fastener that self tapped, but I like this idea better.
Thank you for this. Have looked for vents before and came up empty.
Great idea --- One thing to check after using a can for a few years especially with diesel fuel is mold . I have had to clean mine out with bleach and a little water , and rinse out real good let dry in the sun until good and dry .
There are less expensive options besides a metal tire valve stem. Plenty of plastic vent caps installed after drilling a hole by a press fit from the outside.
Thanks Mike, great idea, been fighting this for years. I just ordered from Grainger 3- 5packs.
Was looking for that plastic fuel tank that you described in one Of your videos to haul fuel back-and-forth in the back of a pickup
I don't like the new fuel containers since it is very difficult to get the fuel into your tractor and I have two John Deere tractors and they both have the tank in front of the drivers seat and you have to get up and fuel it from on the hood using a siphon hose or do it manually. I don't know why they couldn't put the fuel tanks at a different position on my tractors, especially my newer one. I like the modification you made on your fuel containers and that looks great.
It's just a vent don't use the Rubber grommet on the inside,it should seal fine against the plastic
Never get to old to learn something thanks Mike subscribing now.
Online you can buy plastic vent caps drill a half inch hole snap them in pop the vent cap and you're a pouring
How do you always know what I need? The off road diesel is a high flow pump and need the vent. Thanks
Great tip and durable. You can buy these online in yellow plastic. The plastic ones pop in from the outside, form a tight seal, and include a cap. I found 10 of them for 7 or 8 dollars. Same concept, lots easier.
yea! did the same with some tanks that had lost their lids, pull old off insert new and go//an ebay or amazon find
They work great...until the plastic breaks. This tire valve option is certainly an upgrade!
U can also use brake cleaner spray
Cant you just screw a bolt in it loosen to pour tighten to secure?
I use those fuel siphon pumps. They are awesome! A full 5 gal can with those new spouts are difficult. Put the pump in the can fill the gas tank...Under $10 at Harbor Freight
Too easy! Big grin as I read this! At 80 yrs old and beginning signs of Parkinson’s Disease I have real struggle with lifting full 5 gal cans anymore and sucking gas thru a rubber hose was never my favorite game! I’m heading to Harbor Freight today!! Thank you!
Jim Baines
Texas
Thanks a lot, bro. This is a really exciting gas can Hack. We share the same concept in our product.
How do those rubber washers hold up to the fuel. Can imaging they could get eaten up by the fuel in short order if not designed for fuel application.
I used the caulking gun size tube plastic screw in plugs. They're threaded, and have a small tip, expanding to 3/8". They're cheap, found everywhere, even Harbor Freight carry's them.
A vent on a 5 gallon can should be at least 1/4" dia., 3/8" dia., is better. Unless you like holding a heavy ass can in awkward positions for a long time. While the fuel trickles out.
Simple plastic vent caps are readily available, and cost less than $2.00 for 20. Drill a hole, snap in place, done (in less than 60 seconds)!
Be nice if there was some way to attach a tiny chain or ball chain to the valve cap so you could just unscrew it, let go then retrieve it quickly.
Thank you!!!!! I was hating life every time I refueled the tractor. I installed the valves on all my cans and it works great! Thank you Mike I’m definitely sharing your vid 👍
i use self tapping wood screw. If you loose screw, easy to replace, no drilling, no threading wire, about a minute, done.
You can get air vents from amazon for about one dollar apiece
I drilled a small hole and just stuck in a Golf Tee :) Has been working in Florida sun for years.
Thanks Mikle! I am doing this to all of my tanks today!
Great idea. Thanks so much for sharing it, Mike! I have a few old tanks that would benefit from both "fixes".
And I'm glad I got to see it before some tree-hugger reports the video for your "environmental abuse", pouring out the gas. :-) We could see it was a tiny amount, of course. I'll be curious to see how long before one will ask, "why couldn't you just put water in there instead to catch the filings?"...and I'll bet they've never had to drain water from a fuel filter. :-)
Thank you !!! What a life saver !! 👍👍👍👍,, not having a vent really sucks putting fuel in anything !!
You can duty the original yellow plastic vents on eBay from reliable tractor parts drill a hole push em in and cheaper
I bought 20 of em so I’ll always have replacements
Once again…another excellent video Mike!
Why not just use the yellow vents? .20 a piece, they pop right in and have a cap. I put 2 in each can with an Ez Flow spout. Can turn a can upside down and empty it in under a minute
That rubber washer is going to dissolve in the gas or diesel. Get some nylon washers (or HPDE) and replace the rubber ones with those or you'll wreck your gas. (Rubber will dissolve very fast if IN the gas, but the fumes will also destroy them, it just takes a little longer. )
A 1/2" PVC cap fits the spout on the one in your video.
Just did a bunch of them with your method. Many thanks Mike!
How long before gas deteriorates the rubber gasket??
I've used this to make aux fuel tanks for temporary testing and repair of small engines. of course the valve is at the bottom. the rubber doesn't stand up to the fuel. perhaps as a vent this won't be a problem. consider replacing the rubber with material made the withstand the fuel used.
How are the rubber grommets of the valve stem holding up to the gas?
How bout harbor freight metal cans? Will this work on them too?
mike can you tell me how to take off fuel tank on 674 international i took all bolts out 'seems vary hard to move thanks david pei canada
David, sorry, I've never had to do that. Google "fuel tank removal on IH674" and you'll probably find a video on it. Here's a link to Case IH's parts website where you can view a schematic of the fuel tank and how it's held on, which should help: www.mycnhistore.com/us/en/caseih/. Just click "Model name" and put in 674 and you can see every part on the tractor. Good luck!
Smart tip, Mike! Thank you for sharing. Excellent demo, by the way.
Are we not using the nut later? 🤔
You can buy can vents online that pop in from the outside. Are those rubber grommets gas resistant? Doubtful. Love the part where you dump gas on the ground. And they complain about fracking.
I've achieved the same goal by drilling a small hole in the tank then putting a stick in it when not pouring. Way cheaper. I've even used a picket knife to make my hole. This is a clever idea even if I don't think it is worth the time and effort.
the gaskets on the air vents are Epdm rubber which means they deteriorate in oil based , kerosene, gas....trade the gromments for a nitrile buna -N type gasket or fuel hose cut to fit. Sure as a vent it won't sit in the fuel but I suggest replacing at least the inner grommet if not both.
ebay has a 6"x6" nitrile buna - N 1/4" thick gasket sheet for 10$
Works like a charm!! Thanks again buddy, had a couple of shaving in the tank , but I quick rinse fixed that small problem!!
Yeah, you can debur with a little debur tool, rinse them out with the hose, drain and leave in the hot sun for a short time and all the water is all gone!
this is simple , yet genius....
and i now feel stupid for not thinking about wire part in this process myself :D
Nice idea! and I like your notes you wrote in the palm of your hand : )
Hi thanks for sharing this video, its exactly what I need for my hydraulic steering oil bottle when I fill or bleed my boats steering .
Actually any new tire valve works. I prefer thr shorter rbber stlye for flexibility. Same method.
always good tips Mike.
Does the rubber hold up to gas?
Fuel deteriorates the o-ring in the valve cap and the bolt on valve stem seals that I bought. Different part # than yours. Leaving leaving bits of material in the can and then leaks. How are yours holding up?
I just drilled a smaller hole to fit one of those golf Ts like my bank gives away and just push and pull it in and out to vent the tank, oh and since all of my equipment have fuel filters and my hole was much smaller I did not bother with spilling it on the driveway.