Air Time No. 7 - Sheridan Streak Dis-assembly (the Streak from Hell!!)
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- / nwairguns
In this episode, we grab an old Sheridan Streak off the shelf, and dis-assemble it. In the process, we realize that we are not the first to venture into this airgun, and that it suffers from problems that weren't apparent at first. This is the air gunsmiths nightmare, the Streak from Hell. Still, the video should help Streak owners who wish to tear down their air rifle, and avoid the problems found on this particular gun.
Note that the valve retainer nut has a beveled side and a flat side. The beveled side goes forward, flat to the rear UNLESS the threads are buggered up, in which case you have to reverse the nut.
You-tubers will usually take apart the specimen prior to filming, in order to make sure that filming goes smoothly without any surprises. I didn't do that in this instance. So this is what I get for not properly preparing in advance. Lesson learned. Again!!
My Sheridan Silver Streak air rifle that that I've had since about 1970 was on the floor in our house when it flooded in 2017. I wiped it down and put it in the gun case and forgot about it. I tried to pump it up the other day, and nothing. I was watching this NorthWestAirgun video on rebuilding my gun when I saw a comment directing me to their video on Alcohol Flush. Day one, no change at all. Second try I injected more alcohol and the following day the gun pumped up perfectly with no leak-off. Two more days later and it is still working the same. Thank you guys!!!
I enjoyed your video but did want to make a comment. You stated that the valve guide retaining nut was installed backwards but it was actually installed correctly. The flat end of the nut is upwards while the chamfered end is installed towards the valve on top of the lead seal. This is to disperse the lead seal so it seals correctly without leakage. I worked at Sheridan from 1949-1990. We were not a large company but around 15-20 employee's at any given time so we each did it all at one time or another. Maybe after I retired in 1990 Benjamin/Crossman might have done it differently but Sheridan's were always installed this way.
Yes, agree, just a mental lapse as I often suggest people reverse the nut if they can't get it to thread in the proper orientation. Better than cross threading it I figure. I'd go back and correct if I could.
I caught that too Heather. I have a '67 Blue Streak and the bevel is against the lead seal, sort of acting like a flared fitting would do. Boy, I wished we were neighbors, I'd love to talk with you about your time at Sheridan.
As an old guy trying to restore my 50 year old blue streak your videos have been a priceless resource. The Grapelli /Rheinhardt music was a unexpected bonus. Saw Stephane perform live in Boston shortly before he passed. A story I heard about Django was about the humiliating fact he was illiterate. Rather than admitting he couldn’t read he would always object to something in his contract, even if it meant eliminating first class meals provided by the promoter!
Absolutely wonderful video you save me!! I disassembled, rebuilt and refinished and reassembled my 1969 Sheridan model C blue streak that I got when I was 15 and it works perfectly. thank you so much for your help!! I’m giving it to my son on his birthday.
Thats awesome, My Grandpa gave it to me and its a 1970 and I'm so grateful to own a piece of history and think about him everytime I use it, Its a great gift.
Just wanted to say thanks for all your videos. I watched then two or three times, then successfully re sealed my 137 pistol. Priceless!
I ran across an old video you did regarding an alcohol rinse when my Blue Streak wouldn't pump up. Well, I followed your instructions and now my Streak works perfectly! Thanks!
So glad I found this video! I took mine completely apart, took a ton of pictures, then ended up losing my phone with the pics! Now I can put it back together!
Cool, glad it was useful.
Awesome Video, Very informative and extremely well done. First of all Thank you for sharing your knowledge with everyone. I just wanted to comment on what you had said at 27:47 minutes into your video regarding the secondary hole that appeared to be drilled out, I think I know what the previous owner was up to and not sure if he completed his idea but I can tell you I did. I will Explain.
About 3 years ago when I didn't have extra money laying around to buy an expensive PCP air rifle and all I had wad this Sheridan that I bought for $50.00 used on C.L. I decided to convert it into a PCP.
So I began modifying.
I removed the pump handle and slider pump and tossed it in the trash, I then disassembled the rest of the gun and got down into removing the valve, once the valve was removed I realized that the secondary hole was in line with the center of the chamber. I drilled out the indented second hole on the outer tube the marked, drilled and tapped the chamber with a 1/8" NTP Tap.
The brass chamber used to collect air via the pump action and there is a hole drilled at the tip of the chamber and the chamber has an inner spring that pushes a hard Nylon wedge on the back side of the air inlet hole to prevent air from escaping the chamber, the spring would compress when the amount of "exterior pressure" exceeded the spring strength (when the rifle was pumped forcefully) I then threw away this Nylon air retainer and pulled out the torch and filled the tip in with some solder for plumbing copper pipes, Because the air chamber had a wedge shaped nose I was positive it would never blow out even under 800-1200 psi in the air chamber.
then I reassembled everything and used a 1/8" NTP male to male nipple and into the new hole I drilled.
Then I added a oversized nylon washer and then a 1/8" NTP coupling, the nylon would serve as reinforcement for the 1/8in nipple, I drilled out the wooden stock accordingly.
I then grabbed some scrap Tiger Wood and shaped it into a new front stock replacing the old pump handle.
Into the 1/8in female nipple I installed a micro bore PCP air hose and took a paintball tank valve and some scope mounts and screwed it to the side of the gun connecting the other end of the micro bore line I installed a 13cc 3000 psi air tank, opened the breach stuffed a pellet in closed it and fired the first round. It was amazing, had more power than when pumped 8 times.
With a full tank I could shoot well over 50 rounds and all at 850 to 1100 fps.
With this modified Sheridan I have shot over 30 rats at night when paired with my ATN 4k Night vision scope and a suppressor shooting at 50-75 yards. It has no problem, other varmints as well 1 Shot. I now own quite a few fancy air rifles but always grab this one when it comes to taking tree rats and varmints.
I would be more than happy to send videos or picture to whomever is interested.
Wow that was a long note.
Happy Shooting, Hunting and Tinkering everyone!
Kindly,
Michael
I also replaced the hammer spring with a upgraded spring that I removed from a old paintball gun to increase the impact onto the valve of the air chamber
I wanted to thank you for making these videos, with your guidance I just completed the rebuild on my 1965 Blue Streak and it works like new again! I was a little apprehensive on doing it on my own, but watching your videos and the time you take to explain each step, it was not bad at all. Thank you again!
The ONLY rifle I own I have never broken down completely..thanks that was great 👍
Im lucky my grandpa took really good care of his. He passed when i was about 4 years old in 1985. I'm 42 now and i still have his Blue Streak model c. It has never been resealed, but it still works flawlessly. It has the rocker safety, but i have no idea what year it is. It's still got all its power and is still as accurate as ever. Its only ever had lead pellets fired through it so as not to foul up the barrel.
Cool video!
This is an awesome instructional video! I have a '67 Blue Streak that I inherited from my Uncle Leon; which has some issues. The first thing I'm going to do is build a jig like the one which you are using to drive pins out with, etc.; then get my parts kit & special tools from Baker, then I can just watch the videos & work right along with you! 😎
I have a 1956 Sheridan. My father gave it to me...its pre serial number. Sent it back to the factory back in 85. They "redid'' it... nice. Great video
I know that i am years late but great video. Thank you for sticking with this particular gun and describing what you did to fix the problems. Someone else would have started over with a different gun.
I needed to watch more of your videos clips in orders to do repair mine own rifle.
My Sheridan is a dumpster rescue. And not only that, whoever threw it away tried to destroy her. They bent the barrel between 2 close fence posts and busted the stock and forearm. I know that because I found the pieces in and around the dumpster at the store & lock where our company rented a bin. I gathered up what pieces I could find then took the gun home and pounded the barrel as straight as I could with a rubber mallet then glued what wood I could find back together. She isn’t pretty. Has a lot of scars. Got the old peep sites but she can still hit a target the size of a quarter from about 30 feet
Great video...I have a Sheridan Blue Streak and I live about 10 miles south of the original Sheridan factory. I will watch more of your videos to see what I should do to maintain this wonderful gun. Thank you for posting. Bill in Kenosha , Wis
Hi Bill Im from Racine, Great city. The 60s and 70s were the best.
On the Sheridan Im looking for a bolt lug any idea of where to find one. Thanks
No Terrence, I have no idea where to get parts.
Ebay, Numrich gun parts has some.
Terrence, did you find your bolt lug? If not, try Precision Pellet at; airgunshop.net
Yes, Thank you very much.
Nice video and thanks for pointing out the various little things that are wrong with the Sheridan. I hope you can repair it and there is a part two.
When the bolt cannot be retracted, that means the action and trigger assembly was removed from the stock.
Wonderful video! I have a blue streak from the 1980's. Thanks for showing all the intricate details of the process. Seeing everything from multiple angles helps in the process of tearing the gun down.
Joe from Lakeview Oregon
My father bought me one of these for my 9th birthday, it was the most accurate air rifle I have ever seen. I am a bit hesitant to take it apart and rebuild it. Hopefully this video will give me the confidence to do so.
@@brock8199 Hi Brock, Doing something that has real meaning to you, like your rifle my not be the ideal item to start with. But, with the availability of taking photos or videos of your teardown this can offer a record of where parts go and what relationship they have with each other. The best advice I ever received when I was in the trades was to be like an Indian, look for signs. Before doing anything look at everything and try to commit it to memory, how it operates now, how it feels, even smell can tell a story. If you're frustrated, stop and take a break, come back when you have relaxed. We have all gone down this path of learning, and everyone has had real disasters in fixing things. Try to enjoy what you are doing.
Where do I find the socket wrench that you use to remove the screw/ lug from the cocking handle . 14:19 in the video ?
Thank you so much i now have a SHERIDIAN BLUE STREAK
You are wrong. The stock screw is lined up over the hole and the action/piston is moved to find the threaded hole!
Thank you very much for this video. As with your excellent BSA Superten videos, this helped me to repair a rusty old Blue Streak. It's working very well now. Kind regards, Louis
Is this Louis from the Vintage Airgun Forum? Nice to hear from you, and glad you found the video helpful.
@@NorthWestAirgun Yes that's right! See you there :-)
The stock probably didn't come from two different guns. Sheridan never bothered to match the two bits of wood. Mine's the same.
At 19:28 you comment that the retainer nut is installed backwards. I have a 1967 Blue Streak and my retaining nut is installed the same as the one in the video. Written documentation says the beveled edge of the nut goes against the lead washer and acts as a flared fitting sealing against the soft lead.
Yeah, I gotta go back and explain that better. Many people have trouble getting the nut started, and may force things and end up crossthreading or worse. You can often turn the nut over and put the flat side towards the front and the threads will engage properly and still seal up the valve.
@@NorthWestAirgun I love your videos! I've been watching everyone that has to do with the Benjamin or Sheridan.
The Sheridan Blue Streak was my first "rifle" and one of the finest things I have ever owned. Accurate. Dependable. Powerful. Thanks for your videos as they have been a great resource to do a proper rebuild. I do have one question. What is the process that was used to 'blue' the barrel and parts. I am trying to find a way to renew the finish of my gun. I am curious about what the factory used cause it was so good and durable. Very hard to replicate and still have a working rifle. Any ways, thanks again for a great video!
Thank you for your kind words. As I understand it, the silver streak used a nickle electrolysis technique, while the blue streak was a black oxide electrolysis process. I haven’t been able to replicate either, and so have resorted to coatings instead, stove black, engine black, and the like. None of which are nearly as attractive or durable as the original. Many people remove what black finish is left and go with a raw brass look, maybe a wax treatment to keep the brass looking fresh. Wish I could be more helpful. If you find a good treatment, please let me know.
Thank you for the video. Suggestion: have the microphone up near your mouth so we can hear it better. I cranked up the volume high to hear you, but then the commercial ads are just too loud.
Thank you so much for this. I own the same year which I got new when I was 13. It still seems to function fine. I thought about selling it to fund other areas of my target shooting hobby but decided to keep it. Now I am trying to decide if I should refinish the stock or leave it original (as in, would that hurt the value of it if done well). The trigger guard is held on with rivets. Any idea as to how, should I decide to refinish, one takes that guard off and remounts it without damage?
Great video! My 60's Blue Streak will not hold air. I replaced seals reassembled and it still will not hold air. Minute 17:30 you said the hammer ring does not go all the way around, mine does. My hammer spring guide looks more like a nail with a slight bend. Would this be causing my issues? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
I have a real old one my grandpa gave me, it's brass colored its shot so much, would love your help repairing it , if you get a chance? It would mean the world to me! It's in very good condition, just won't hold air! Nobody around here can work on them.
Well, these videos are intended to be a kind of guide if you decide to rebuild it yourself. But I get a lot of emails and messages from people who prefer to have it rebuilt by someone else. PM me at nwa@northwestairguns.com and we'll figure something out to get it fixed.
Awesome.so helpful.thank you.
A buddy of mine gave me a Sheridan Blue Streak he’d acquired a few years ago. Said it wouldn’t shoot, won’t hold pressure. I disassembled it (thank you N.W.Airguns!!) but couldn’t extract the bolt set screw or the compression valve due to lack of appropriate tools. I’m now trying the alcohol treatment and will update with results. I may end up getting an extraction tool for the compression chamber since I believe that’s were the primary fault lies.
Anyone have references to attaining the compression chamber extraction tool(s) and replacement gaskets?
baker airguns sells the tool, as well as a seal kit, and they sometimes show up on ebay if you search ‘sheridan valve tool’
I was cleaning out my basement and came across a Blue Streak my dad gave me it the 70's. It works fantastic and I fell in love with it all over again. Now I'd like to aquire a pistol, preferably a pumper. Can you recommend a good model to keep my eye open for. And can you suggest a good...reputable place to source one. Thanks!!
By recollection, Sheridan had a pump pistol designated as the Model H. Then Benjamin Sheridan had the Model H9, later after Crosman bought them out there was the BS Model H9A. Any would be a great companion to your Streak. Where? There's always ebay, airgun retailers, like Baker Airguns maybe. Or you can put a Wanted to Buy ad up on one of the airgun forums, like this one;
www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?board=33.0
They aren't making these pistols any more. About the best you can do now is the Crosman 1322 or 1377. Some people customize the heck out of them, lots of possibilities and after market parts.
Thanks a bunch!
What year did they come out with the safety on the pistol grip where you put your hand around it to hold it like your going to shoot it it pushes down when you grip the gun
Thanks for posting this video. I have a C series blue streak that I got new in 1977. I am currently disassembling it and your video has been most helpful. I am at the point of removing the solder valve and having some difficulty with the tool that came in the rebuild kit. Where would I be able to get one of those valve tools like you have with the wingnut on it? The straight tool that I have threads on there nicely but tapping on a screw driver shoved in the side hole is not moving it and I don't want to damage the valve. Thanks!!!
Thanks for this excellent video. Nicely done. I have Blue Streak I'm working on that is pretty much identical this one, and I have tool question. What was the little driver you used to remove the lug from the bolt?
This video is helping me out so much, thanks for posting it. I am working on a 63 Blue Streak I don't think its ever been opened up. It is adjustable with a threaded pump rod and nut that is on the side that connects to the pump linkage? Did they change them in that three Years?
Right now I'm having a hard time removing the valve retaining nut. Soaking it with WD-40.
Thanks again for the video!
The nut is a locking nut to hold the length. If it locks everything up tight, you probably did it right. On the valve nut, you can also try moderate heat to the tube where the valve nut sits. Run a hairdryer on that portion of the tube for a few minutes. Sometimes that will pursuade the nut to let loose. Don't recommend using a torch, as there are seals in there that you can fry and then you have a big cleaning job.
Thank you,
I have a Blue Streak that my dad gave me back in about '67. It has performed flawlessly, even after sitting idle for probably 20 years. I also still have the original yellow pellet case, but have also found another type that seems to shoot faster and flatter.
A couple of months ago, it began to loose pressure and gradually became worse. Now, it's not holding pressure at all. I will try to correct it with lube. What other fixes can you recommend sight unseen?
I have the same model I purchased back in the 60's that recently has lost compression. I made the bolt lug removal tool as shown in you vids but in using it my lug hex just rounded off. Any suggestions to remove the lug without damaging or ruining the bolt?
Yeah, these things can get stubborn sometimes. Heat can help loosen stuff up a bit. Not torch, but hairdryer, or if you are careful, soldering iron kind of localized heat. If you have a pin vise, that would be my first try. You may be able to cut a slot in the head with a dremel tool, then take it out with a screwdriver. Last resort are narrow needle nose pliers. If you break it off, the bolt will come out but then you still have to extract body of the lug, so one step forward and two steps back. You can get new bolt lugs, or even new bolts, from Mac1 at mac1airgunshop.com, Rick Wilnecker at airgunshop.net, or Mike Baker at; peter_built78@hotmail.com
I tried the heat and the screwdriver slot but neither worked so I ground the lug down enough to remove the bolt. Sometimes a broken screw can be removed by drilling from the bottom and the drill will catch and turn the screw out. No such luck on this. do you know the thread size on the lug? I can try to tap out the lug scrap as a last resort. I am going to rebuild this Blue Streak and will order parts after additional research. Your vids are a tremendous help as well as the replies. Thanks!
thread size on the bolt lug is 5-40.
I have a Sheridan silver streak I got from my grandfather after he passed. Do you rebuild these? I'm in Wisconsin.
Sorry for your loss. I'm not taking in repairs at this time. Try Chet Pauls in Fresno, Ca 559-917-3799, Mike Baker in Cornville, Az 503-706-9512, or Tim McMurray in Signal Hill, Ca
mac1airgunshop.com. Not sure, but Rick Wilnecker at Precision Pellet may also take repairs at airgunshop.net. Most likely you will have to ship it to get repaired.
Hope you're still up and running. I have an old Blue Streak and watched your video with great interest. However, my problem was not addressed. A portion of the breach tube (area holding the bolt) has come loose from the gas chamber tube (but not completely). Can it be soldered or brazed back on?
Can be fixed, but that's a tricky job. Too much heat and the internal seals can be degraded. Best person for re-solder like that is Tim McMurray at mac1airgunshop.com, google 'mac 1 airgun' and you can probably get his phone number.
Thank you very much!! @@NorthWestAirgun
I removed the rear sight from a sheridan blue streak, After cleaning it all up, I cant seem to get the sight back on with the two little brackets that fit between the barrel and the tube. is there a way to do it? Or a Special tool to put it back on without scratching the metal up? Help.!!! Will you be making a video on remounting the original sight on the rifle?
where can i buy the tools that you've use in dis assembling the firing pin valve
cant you take out the valve assembles out from the other side say the front of the gun with say a dowel rod and tap it out?
Thanks for the video I have a c series Sheridan but I'm looking for a stock for it. Any suggestions?
I have a 1979 model Sheridan Blue Streak. I have had it since the early 80's. Recently the barrel seems to have come dis-attached from the pressure chamber at the cocking end of barrel so that the assembly has to be held tightly together in order to cock the gun, ( the lug doesn't stay down in the slot when cocking the gun). It looks like there is a screw inside that should hold the two parts together but how to get to it is a mystery and is not mentioned or shown in this video. Can anyone help me with this?
mine came a part just like this but the check valve wont come out yours dropped right out any tricks to get the check valve out help
You can use a 1/8" welding rod from the hardware store, and sharpen one end to a long point, then poke the intake seal out from the muzzle end. Kinda tricky getting light down there and getting the point into the air intake hole, but be patient and you can get it done.
Hi, great video! I am across the pond on the south coast of England and love the old pump air guns, I have a blue streak and a crosman 140. The blue streak has had a knock on the front sight at some stage and is missing some of its height, can a replacement front sight bade be purchased do you know? Secondly would i need to unbraze the old sight blade and braze the new one in place? Thanks in advance Stu
Aim low? Sorry. I believe that the sites were soldered in place when the tube and barrel were joined, so your idea for removing the old one and replacing with a new one would be possible. Brazing might be too hot, you have to maintain the joint between the barrel and tube while applying enough heat to deal with the site, a tricky operation. But your bigger problem is finding a replacement site. It's not shown in the Sheridan parts diagram as a separate part, but inegral to the barrel. You may have to fabricate one. Here's another resource; ujays.net/sheridan.html
UJ is very knowledgeable about the vintage Sheridans. Shoot him an email and see if he has a better suggestion for you.
I just disassembled one that I had brought into my shop. In your video that last part, the check disc just fell out. Mine has an o-ring holding it inplace. How are you able to get it out. I am not having much luck with a hooked rod.
Hmm, not sure what you mean, maybe shoot me a photo of what you have removed and describe what is still left? To nwa@northwestairguns.com
@@NorthWestAirgun I have removed all but the bottom or last check disc that you show on your video. However, this one in particular has an unnecessary o-ring above the check between it and inlet spring. I will try to get a picture. Thanks for the quick answer. I also asked via your site contact, but thought it might help others here too.
@@NorthWestAirgun . You should have the picture. Is this a unique model?
I found my issue. The rubber seal of the check disc had come apart and lodge between the disc and the side wall. It looked like an O-ring. I was able to spin the check disc around by pushing in on one side and then lift it free with a hooked rod.
@@JonLaCour Thats a really old part, replaced by a different style in early 1960's. Glad you got it sorted.
Thanks for the video. I am about to tear into my grandpa's old bluestreak. It has the flat top and rocker safety. It's in excellent shape besides holding pressure. I have all the tools except the tool used to take out the square nut? And the 9/32-32 thread you mentioned? What are those tools and where can I get them? Thanks
Here's one place;
www.bakerairguns.com/product/valve-tool-for-benjamin-sheridan/
You also find them on ebay from time to time, try 'sheridan valve tool' or some variation of that
Great Video I still have my blue strekl from when I was a kid...Its in great shape,Ive had it resealed, but the sights front and rear needs replaced..rear is missing and front is broken..and suggestions where i can get the sights fixed
Sure, try Precision Pellet (google it) or Baker Airguns (google it too)
@@NorthWestAirgun thank you...i'll give them a try
i just mailed my blue streak to Baker airgun..they do it all...thanks again for the help@@NorthWestAirgun
I just recieved my sheridan bluestreak back from Baker airgun and and very happy with the work they did...
What are you waiting for?
Someone really booger that gun up, I wish you could work on my gun. I changed the O rings and didn't do something right, so I took it to one of the local gunsmith and it won't hold air. Please show how you fixed and reassembled the gun.
Thanks to all for the kind words. We have two videos coming, one fixing the sheridan from hell, in particular getting the front end of the tube fixed. The other is a basic re-assembly video. Both should be up by October. Check back as Ive got a few others in the cooker too.
NorthWestAirgun Ok I'll do that, thanks
I was wondering where I can buy a lug bolt that holds the stock on the barrel or if you have one for sale. I have been looking forever with no luck ? Thanks
I'm out of town, so can't look but I'm pretty sure that bolt is 1/4"-20, so if you have a Fastenal or old style hardware store they should have one that will fit. I don't recall length, but probably 1" or maybe 3/4", get one of each, oval head. For a more original screw, try Precision Pellet at airgunshop.com.
@@NorthWestAirgun Thanks alot
I have one of these guns, but I don't know how old it is, is there a period it was in production or is there a way to find the date of manufacture from the gun?
There is a date stamp...very small. On the left side of the bolt just below the chamber where you put the pellet in. Cheers!
Does the actual valve unscrew or just pull out?
The nut has to be unscrewed, the valve just pulls out. Although it is sometimes kinda stubborn and needs pursuasion. Look towards the end of this video; ua-cam.com/video/IR_JbmArmKE/v-deo.html
How do i know what valve rebuild kit to order?
By make model and year built. Presuming this is a benjamin like the video, be it a blue/ silver streal or a 312/ 317 etc, you will have to pull the butt end cover from the tube and visually look inside for a squared hole surrounding the valves stem. All that should be between the rear cover and this part is a spring and the hammer which will just fall out. the spring has a few lbs of pressure on it, so cup your hand around it before taking the last screw out. Its not enough pressure to worry about injury, but enough to maybe come out and roll away somewhere if you don't know it is in there. If you see the square hole with a rod sticking through the center, its an older soldered valve. The kit is easy to find, the tool may have to be found seperately.
I have sheridan blue streak 5m/mcal. The serial number is A 27918 or A 2791B any idea what year it is? Cant find anywhere. It works great someone carved into stock. But other wise is really nice. Just wanted to know year of it and cant seem to find this serial number on internet
That is most likely a "B" for February, of 1972 (year is stamped in reverse, letter is for the month with "A" being January)
Hi, already separated the barrel from my sheridan, How can I re bond it?
Bummer. I've seen people use duct tape, bailing wire, etcetera. None are a solution, and the separation will continue to get worse over time as you use the gun. Only re-solderl solves the problem.
If the separation is at the front end, and if you can find someone local who knows how to braze or solder, they might be able to solder it, but keep in mind brazing is probably too hot.
But if the separation is near the rear of the gun (near the rear site), overheating can melt or degrade the seals in the compression chamber, or affect the original solder of the compression chamber in the tube. So, front end, maybe if you can find someone who knows what they are doing. If at the rear, send it to someone who can do it. Here's a couple of names for you;
Randy Bimrose (barrelbender@charter.net)
Tim McMurray (mac1airgunshop.com)
There may be others too, but I know these guys can do a good job for you.
This channel still active?
What type of tool is being used at 19:45 that’s the last thing I need.
Very informative. I have three 'Streaks but I doubt I'll do any more than adjust the piston rod. Have you ever found old guns to be gunked up because the owner used Pellgun Oil?
YES!! Can't be sure if it was the pellgun oil specifically, because we generally don't know the lubrication history of the gun, but I've seen some truly 'gunked up' internals. Makes you wonder if someone lubed with maple syrup!! Lube should be used on the pivot points to prevent galling and wallowing out, not in the valving. Any lube is better than none at all with respect to the pivot points. But it will gradually migrate through the valving system and out the barrel when shooting.
Thing is, most petroleum based lubricants leave behind a thin film as some of the ingredients evaporate. Eventually someone will have to tear the gun down and clean all the residue out when the gun finally stops working properly. Some people put oil in the 'do not oil' hole in the hope that the seals will swell and the gun will pump and hold air again. Repeated oiling that way can result in a real mess, especially if the gun then sits for a time.
We often get a gun that the owner has tried the kerosene or WD-40 lube cure just before sending in the gun for rebuild. These are a wet, oily mess and I spend most of the rebuild time just cleaning. If you are going to try a 'cure', try flushing alcohol thru the system instead of oil. It may work for a while and is much easier to clean up when a true rebuild is warranted.
I use the secret sauce from Mac1 on the pivot points and recommend that you do too. But again, keep those pivot points moist with some kind of lube. Its actually easier to clean out the valving and replace seals than to repair a wallowed out lever pivot.
Thanks for the thorough response. I was just curious about Pellgun oil, as it is recommended by the manufacturers. “What oil to use” will always be a controversial topic, but I couldn’t understand how that oil could be singled out as being particularly bad, or “Secret Sauce” could be particularly good. Thanks again.
Good tip. I tell people what I use, but if you don't have any, just us anything you've got on the pivot points. Air compressor oil should be a readily available option.
Where can I find the valve removal tool
Hello, I have a blue Streak probably from the early 70's - wondering if I could mail it to you to refurbish it? I think I overoiled it and losing air pressure. Shot less than 500 times since I still have the original yellow pellet container! My dad got me this gun and love its accuracy! From Deerfield, WI Thanks
Hi Otto, I'm not taking in repairs right now, I'd suggest Randy Bimrose (barrelbender@charter.net) or Tim McMurray (mac1airgunshop.com). Cool story about the gun, these are worth getting fixed.
Thank you for taking the time to make these videos! I have just purchased a vintage Sheridan and the previous owner has pumped it up to the point it would be difficult to get another pump.
I can't release the pressure as the trigger catch doesn't drop into barrel. Any idea how to release pressure? Don't want to start disassembling with pressure in gun! Thanks
Well, the trigger catch should have anything to do with pressure in the gun, it's a separate mechanism. More likely the prior owner shimmed the hammer spring so it gets coil bound and doesn't allow the hammer back far enough to catch the trigger sear. But to release pressure, you take out the end piece, the trigger, and the hammer, so there isn't anything in the tube but the valve, then put a 5/8" dowel or metal round piece into the tube and gently tap against the valve. You should hear it release air. Just don't take out the valve nut (need the valve tool to do it). Check out this video at about 32 minutes to see the procedure;
ua-cam.com/video/aWOhm4RyvFs/v-deo.html
Of course, this is to test and you want to release pressure, but the idea of letting compressed air out of the valve is the same.
NorthWestAirgun Thank you much
Hello Sir I rebuild my air valve on my Sheridan Silverstreak and my question is do I need to cock this gun before I can pump it?
Sometimes, yes. I've often set them up to be cocked prior to pumping. There's a balance between the strength of the exhaust and hammer springs. Is it dumping all the air at 8 pumps? If so, then just cock it before pumping. If not, then you may have to go in and strengthen the hammer spring with a shim or a stronger spring.
@NorthWestAirgun I ordered a complete rebuild for thr air valve but I had the same problem with it not holding air until I cocked it. I had to end up using the old intake valve because it wouldn't work with the one that came in the kit. The new intake valve had a small point sticking out the end which made it longer than the original and it wouldn't hold air without cocking it first. It was working without cocking it first now for some reason it doesn't.
How much would it cost to send in my blue streak to you the only problem is it wont hold air it is in great condition other than that
Sorry, I'm swamped right now, recommend you contact Tim McMurray at mac1airgunshop.com
Are you taking any new projects in ? If so how can I send mine to you ?
email me at;
nwa@northwestairguns.com
let me know where you are located. We’ll get it fixed.
Is this a c series. I have a legit c series and my piston doesnt look like that
Pretty sure this pre-dates the C series, although some parts may be interchangeable. Check out 'Air Time No. 1', which has some discussion of the different pistons and rods.
Please demonstrated how to transformed old Benjamin into PCP.
if you want a bomb why not try it yourself
Do you repair other people’s guns?
I have and do, depending on backlog, the particular airgun in question, and other things going on in life. I don't believe that long turnaround time is good for anybody. So, I will often refer people to other gunsmiths who are better suited for that job or who can get to the work in a more timely fashion. My email is; nwa@northwestairguns.com
@@NorthWestAirgun would you be willing to work on an old Benjamin model 317? I’m not sure of the year manufactured but, it has the tootsie roll style wood for the pump lever. I’ve had it for 35 years and it was my grandfathers. It’s more of a sentimental piece. I’d like to restore to working order. Thank you
@@dh1270 shoot me an email at; nwa@northwestairguns.com
Where can I buy the bolt lug tool?
I think Baker Airguns has them, also seen them on ebay sometimes listed as Sheridan valve tool or some such
@@NorthWestAirgun thank you
Looking for parts, Where do I buy them?
Got it.
terrence krogh looking for someone to work on my Benjamin
@@palmhoneybee where did you look? Fixing my dads old one
why can't I e-mail this to another account
Good
My Buddy has one he got in 1970 needs resealed great gun !
omgosh does he take this long to get up, bet he is umemployed,by the hour he takes foreeever to get to the point,,geeeezzzz
DIY valve retaining nut remover, www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/sheridan/173129-diy-valve-tool.html
Zz
8
Need some info on the tools. Need to locate them. Sent an email to you.
Cut the bull crap and get on with it!
Get to the Point ............. Dued you TALK TOOOOOOOOO Much
worthless, not only did he pull a half of the pieces of the gun to show,, i never waist my time with him,, how do i block!!