NO SPECIAL TOOLS! - 6.0 LS Rebuild PART 3 - Installing Front / Rear Covers + HOLLEY Oil Pan - UTX
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- Today at Ugly Truck, we're installing the front and rear engine covers, and a brand new @HolleyPerformance low profile oil pan. No special alignment tools required! With the engine sealed up, we prelube the engine and prime the oil system. And with that, our 6.0 LS rebuilds are complete!
TORQUE SPECS:
Valley Cover - 18 ft lbs
Windage Tray - 18 ft lbs
Pickup Tube to Oil Pump - 106 in lbs
Pickup Tube Brace to Windage Tray - 18 ft lbs
Oil Pan Baffle - 106 in lbs
Oil Pan Short Bolts - 18 ft lbs
Oil Pan 2 Long Bolts - 106 in lbs
Front Cover (Timing Cover) - 18 ft lbs
Rear Cover (Rear Main Seal Housing) - 18 ft lbs
See the entire rebuild here! • 6.0 LS REBUILD - Ugly ...
Want to see more LS swap content? Check out this playlist! • 1985 Chevy C10 - LS SW...
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Absolute gem of a channel! Have had a project truck on the back burner, everyone said LS’s leak oil every time and are hard to assemble and low oil pressure problems. I can see how if you not know how that would be a thing. Very useful info and step by step explanations. Thanks for sharing.
Hello Sam. I have had them leak but it was something that I had made a mistake on. For the most part, when everything is done right they do not leak and after freshening up one with new gaskets you can get a couple hundred thousand miles with no troubles. I have only seen oil pressure issues with DOD engines myself. I have an 03 6.0 liter out here with 450000 miles on it with 30 to 40 lbs. idling. I am pretty impressed with that. Thanks for watching. We appreciate it. Jerry
So glad to see a video where someone primed the oil system can’t tell you how many videos iv watched even on engine power tv when they build an ls they never show that step Ik it has to be done but I never see anyone doing it on an ls thanks for being the only ones to have done it lol
Thanks Barry! It's one of those boring steps that a lot of folks leave out, but it's pretty important! We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience yes cause for a while I was starting to think that well maybe ls engines are so good maybe u don’t have to pre lube them but iv built a lot of small blocks an big block Chevys an I would never run one without priming up the system cause to me even turning the engine over without starting it to build pressure seems sketch
Great content, love your stuff. Personally I install the seals both front and rear and after tightening the covers up. I use a nylon centering tool then tighten them up and install the seals, I figure it's cheap insurance. The centering tools are $11-$12 each on Ebay. For a pre-oiler I have the same hose assy but I hook it into the main oil gallery on the left side of the block behind the front cover. I use a 12v RV diaphragm pump I bought off Ebay for $22. It's mounted to the top of a Home Depot 2 gal. bucket and I run it off a battery, 45+ psi pushing through the oil system and I also crank over the motor until all 5 quarts are in, easy-peezy and cheap. Just another way to skin a cat.
Love your channel. Very easy to follow for average weekend mechanic. Keep them coming.
Thanks so much! We appreciate you watching our stuff! --Emily and Jerry
Finding your channel was such a blessing. I recently impulse bought a "fixer upper" 68 C10 (childhood dream truck), and decided to swap a stock 5.3 in. I found your channel searching for swap wiring and I am so glad I did. I got all the info I needed and also got hooked on a new channel.
That's so awesome! We're glad you found us! 👍 Keep us posted on your C10!
liked at approximately 19minutes in. exactly the info i needed to align to front cover with oil pan
Thanks for the like, Rylee! We appreciate you tuning in!
I did buy a couple of shirts, no worries on the shipping costs. The information you share is worth the shipping costs of the merch!!! Thanks again for very informative videos.
You're very welcome! Thanks so much for your support, Darrell! 👍 Which shirts did you get??
@@UglyTruckExperience the UTX Black classic T
And of course the grey
“OK SO”
Thanks for the great videos! Thoroughly enjoy watching, listening and learning from you both!
Thanks so much! We appreciate you watching! 👋
I so happy I found your channel it has help me out so much. plus the wiring question's you answered and help me finish my Chevy S10 LS 5.3 job and I'm happy its now running and driving.
Thanks Greg. It is a really nice feeling when you get to that point. If we helped out in any way that makes us feel great . We have a bunch more LS content coming up and we hope you keep watching. Thanks
Hey Greg! We just checked our PO box... Thanks so much for the gift card! We'll definitely put it to good use! 😁 Hope you're enjoying your S10!!
Your videos are really helpful . My block and heads and crank at at the machine shop now . I’m going to try it . I got your videos and a book .
Thanks Arizonarider. Let us know how it goes. It is very tedious work but a ton of fun to start that motor up in the end. Jerry and Emily
You guys are awesome.. I really enjoy watching your videos.. thank you for sharing
We really appreciate you watching. Thanks for your great comment.
Another great video on the books!
Thanks Tyler!! 👋👋
appreciate all the detail!
Thanks Average Joe... There is a ton more on the way. We appreciate you watching..
Thank yall for this great videos, i love watching them all, im building my first 5.3 but this 3 videos with so much detail and organized help me alot and gave me the confidence of doing it myself 👍🏼. Question: im also using the low profile oil pan, on my 5.3 the specs says 6 quarts, with this new low profile pan does it still need 6 quarts ? because now my original dipstick shows its overfilled like 1 inch ? Or do i need a new dipstick or less oil ? im confused on how this low profile oil pans oil capacities work.
I have had the same issue. I lower my oil level down to read the original dipstick level. I run them with oil coolers installed and it is only a 5 quart total. Thanks for watching. Jerry
Hi Jerry & Emily, Great content and luv the channel. Picking my way thru all your past videos now & I'm really learning about all the LS facts from yous guys, what a great piece of engineering. Has GM ever figured out how to stop the exhaust manifold bolts from breaking off? Jerry, could you tell us how you became so GM LS savvy ? Maybe your past automotive work/school experience?
Emily, you are a doll and Jerry is lucky to have you as his apprentice and wife.
Thank you all for the previous info on my Express Van engine .... 8th digit is "4" = LMF engine code ..... WITHOUT DOD.... YEH! Bob R.
On the new LT based engines the exhaust manifolds are separated with a slice between the individual ports. I would think that gives the manifold a little more flex and less pulling on the exhaust studs. Congrats on having that LMF. Concerning my background. Every once in a while we will talk about our background a bit but I try to keep it at a minimum. We are thinking of doing a live show maybe once a month where our subscribers would be able to ask questions in real time and maybe some more of our history will come out. I don't consider my self to be very interesting but Emily definitely is and I really am lucky to have her. Thanks for your great comments. Jerry
Love watching you guys so much info. I’m new to all this I have a 55 Chevy truck I’m building I have a 327 to build but I’m thinking 6.0 do you have any for sale?
Hello Barry. I do have a few of them sitting around here but hang on to them with every ounce of power I have. I watch for 2002 ish 4x4 3/4 ton trucks. Most of them had 6 liters and they are rusting to the ground, leaving behind a great motor and most times a 4l80 transmission. If I run across another good deal, I will keep you in mind. Thanks. Jerry
Thanks for sharing..a little less corny this time.. but you can't have everything. Would adapting a bottle from a large fire extinguisher give the added volume of oil needed for Ur DIY lol gallery priming device? Stay warm.👍🏁
Thanks Ray Bann! That is a great idea about the fire extinguisher. We'll keep an eye out for a bottle and give it a shot! Thanks for watching!
I guessing it’s customer preference. Why the Holley oil pans? The builds look like they went smooth! Great work guys! Awesome videos!!
Thanks Rick! We used a different brand oil pan on another truck (ua-cam.com/video/XanlbyNiLzE/v-deo.html) and we weren't impressed. These Holley's are a little pricey, but they're very nice. They're totally optional though... I have a stock pan on my 70 C10 with no issues. Thanks for watching!
Good job
Thanks LSX. We appreciate it. Jerry and Emily
Wow, this was a very inspiring video series. Love the detailed information. Might have to find an LS and do a rebuild on it next winter. How does a 5.3 compare to the 6.0L in terms of the rebuild procedures?
It's all relatively the same, except torque specs might be different. We have a couple of 5.3's here that need to go to the machine shop, so we may have a 5.3 build in the future. Give us a yell if you run into any questions! Thanks for tuning in! --Emily
Recently discovered your channel while preparing to LS swap my 88 C1500. I have a 6L out of a 2004 1500. Do I need to use that low profile Holley oil pan for my swap? Truck is stock height but I do plan on lowering it. Thanks, love the channel. Keep the content coming!
Todd
Hi Todd! Glad you found us! At stock ride height the original pan is fine, but I would use the Holley if you plan to lower it. It brings the bottom of the oil pan up pretty much even with the transmission pan. Thanks for tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience thanks for that, I’ll add a Holley oil pan to my build sheet.
For o ring for the tube did you what Holley gave you with pickup tube or melling black o ring
On this engine we used the green oring that comes with the Melling pump. Jerry
amazing video series, probably the best assembly series I've seen with spec's and explanations!!!
i hope you can find the time too answer a pretty in-depth question as i should already be out in the garage getting started now that my last sensor showed up today (but i got sucked into binge watching instead)
(i'm assuming at some point in time you might have installed a bought longblock for yourselves or perhaps a customer that was in a hurry)
question:
what do you check, test, or look at before you go through all the trouble of the install, to be sure you have a quality remanufactured engine from the usual suspect's....atk, jasper, ect...??
Thanks John Doe, if that is your real name. 😁 We have installed both ATK and Jasper. The first thing I check once I get the block here is the bolt holes and the threads. Some blocks will have a standard thread in one hole and the different block may be metric. You don't want to have that engine sitting in there and find out your bellhousing bolts are a different thread. Other than that I always make sure I prelube them with forced oil system before I put them in the car. That way if by chance there was a leak behind the flywheel or flexplate you can fix it now. Some of them have a long shelf life also and really need that prelube. Make sure you use what they suggest for break in oil, use a good filter and change its oil after breakin. Let us know how it goes.
@@UglyTruckExperience good advice on the bell housing bolts...i would have assumed they would be the same (I purchased the engine stand bolt kit for 5.3 so i should figure that one out when i attempt to mount it on engine stand) i have to put the old tinware on with new seals, so that leak behind the flywheel should be covered if i do it right (i bought the centering tools for front and rear covers). once i get all the tinware on i will look into a pre-oiling system i can buy to do as you suggest, it would be nice to find leaks in advance. and i did get the break in oil kit from jeg's as well
thanks for the reply
ps. the ecm already has a tune on it for the 5.3/4l60e, but with the new 37.1 lbs per hour injectors i will be installing, along with the bigger cam this engine has.....how safe would it be to do the initial 20-30 minute no load break in @2000 rpm's
or should that only be done at the tuner's while on the dyno?
pss. and no john doe isn't the real name.....the nsa knows to much already....lmao
If it is a 5.3 you wont have any issues with the bolt holes. They we're all the same. Wasn't sure what motor you we're talking about. NSA? I could see that.
Ask your tuner how it will run. You would not want it running lean on your break in.
@@UglyTruckExperience ok will do
Oh my stars! Is Jerry in need of a haircut or is he bringing back the “MULLET”? 😂 sorry you all are funny, just thought I’d chime in.
🤣🤣 He's growing it out this winter as a goof, but I think the mullet really suits him! 😂 Thanks Darrell!
Is that oil pan designed like old style SB pans late 60's, those pans seem to fit all chevy body types without any clearance issues? eg. '69 steering center link, '80's clutch linkages, frame crossmembers? accommodation for oil dipstick ?...I hope you can make video on flywheels, pressure plates choices , even if it's just informative , I totally respect your knowledge of LS motor, ECU Q... wud factory tune be sufficient for manual trans? idle speed ? anything else might be overlooked ? wanting to use accessories from '81WSB, with serpentine pulleys if a must? or '05 acc. better /ezr install? thanx for sharing all LS experience ....keep'em coming
Hi Jon! Check out LT1swap.com. He has some info on using a manual trans in a swap. We appreciate you watching and commenting! Emily and Jerry
That pickup tube doesn't have the tab to bolt onto the windage tray. That's an interesting way to prelube the engine. I've only done it by filling the pickup tube to prelube the pump, then turning it over without plugs until you get it coming out the pushrods.
It has one windage tray bracket, where the stock pickup tube has 2. It's much beefier that the stock tube though, and the 2 bolts on the oil pump keep it nice and solid. There are several good ways to prelube the engine, but the bottom line is: Get some oil in there! 🤣 Thanks for watching, Randy!
Mr. Garrison took up engine building. Mmkay 😂
Hey Joe. I always love a good South Park reference... Mmmkay. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience Thanks for having a sense of humor. Great video. Thanks for showing us the whole thing. Most people build an engine in 17 minutes. Lol. But it doesn't work that way.
Definitely not a quick and easy job. Nothing more rewarding though than firing up one that you built. Thanks Joe.
Ok,yeah,ok....ok😂
Thanks Dale. We appreciate you watching and commenting. Jerry a Emily
Thanks i just learn alot💪🏾💪🏾💯
Thanks for tuning in Homie!! We appreciate it! Emily and Jerry
Watching your videos I went ahead and bought a junk yard 6.0 I am now putting it together I would like to install a mild cam do you have any suggestions thank you
If you don't have somebody that is skilled at tuning you might want to stick with a stock cam. I have always wanted to throw a cam in one but don't really know anybody close to tune it for me. I would like to have the time and money someday to invest in a hP tuner and do it myself but It's just not in the cards right now. If you just want some extra hp, throw some flat top pistons in it for some extra compression. That basically turns it into an lq9. I know it doesn't sound like a cam though. Let us know what you end up doing. Thanks
Why don't you sell LS swap harnesses ? I think it would be great. Love the channel.
Thanks Claude, There are so many different combinations on those harnesses it would get pretty involved. If we had more time maybe. Thanks for your comment.
How do you go about engine break-in? I'm seeing lots of different info and would like to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
Because they have roller cams in them I am not to concerned about breaking in the cam like we used to. I don't run the trucks to much before I can get them out on the road though after firing them up. Once I can drive them, I will go from stop to around 60 mph at a normal acceleration over and over. I will put thirty or so miles on them without holding a constant RPM or speed. No interstate driving with the cruise on basically. That is my way of breaking in the rings. I also change oil and filter after this. I am a little old school. Great question. We really appreciate it. Jerry
The stuff that you used to prime the engine where can I get the bottle in the adapter? I would like to make one of these.
Hey Kloco! It's actually an AC system flush kit. Here's a link to the one we have on Amazon. Thanks for tuning in! amzn.to/4bCsZm1
Good evening sir just like your channel sir want to know the size of the engine bolt to the engine stand how long is it and size of it sir
I believe they are M10 bolts with a 1.5 pitch. My engine stand needs a 3 inch long bolt. You would want to measure your engine stand just to be sure. We appreciate you watching.
Hi guys.I just love your chanel and the chemistry between you two :D Iwishi could come to the states and visit you so i could hang with you in the garage acouple of days and learn how to count corns :D But i think the videos need a little more speedhandle usage. Eeeeeewwwwwwwwhhhhhhh!!!
Thanks Christian! We'd be glad to have you, and to spread the good word of The Corns! 😁 Just curious, where are you from? We appreciate you watching our stuff! --Emily and Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience wow that would be a truly awesome experience. What state are you from? Im from Sweden. But we got a good tradition here when it comes to cars and motorsport even thou we are a little country 😀 I grew up in the backseat of my parents american classic cars so my mother says i got half blood and half gasoline in my veins 😀
That's awesome! I never knew American classic cars were so popular there! We're in Missouri. --Emily
Are y'all rebuilding these 6.0's for customer installs?
Yes, they're going into a couple of 86 C10's, both customer vehicles. Thanks for watching!
I’ve been turning a lot of people on to your channel that have LS swap questions
Thanks Tim! We really appreciate it!
Do use have an entire parts list of this 6.0ls
No, we don't. Each one ends up being a little different. We usually try to use as many GM parts as possible. Thanks for watching!
Is there a gasket kit you guys like using?
Hello John. I use Fel Pro or Maule gaskets. When it comes to cylinder head gaskets, I try to stick with OEM or Maule. I am not a big fan of the Fel Pro head gaskets for some reason. We have a upcoming video coming up that I am going to address that and we will also have a parts list. Thanks. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience thank you! This is awesome info. I am in the middle of resealing a LM7. Debating on pulling heads or letting them be and just doing all of the other gaskets and oil diverter
If you pull the heads, you will either have to have them resurfaced or make sure you use the GM gasket. The gasket leaves an imprint on the head that is referred to as a fire ring. If you don't need to pull the heads for any certain reason, I would avoid it. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience
I ran it on some breakclean and it seemed healthy. (Fuel pump was inop)
I am also a noob, so my calibrated ear may not be that accurate haha
So your not going to line it up with the block ?
Not sure what you are asking on this one Scott? Are you asking about where it bolts up to the back side of block when pulling it to the transmission? Jerry
Hey guys good job!
Thanks Daniel! We appreciate you tuning in! --Emily and Jerry
I Have a question I bought a 6.0 harness and I’m thinking about using it in a 5.7 ls1, my question is, is the harness plug and play besides the injectors? Thank you
Hey Daniel. We have never been lucky enough to have a 5.7 in here to work with. I think the throttle body portion of the intake is different possibly and not sure if a 6.0 plugs right into it. If you know what make and model your harness is and make and model of engine, I could take a look at it. Jerry
@@UglyTruckExperience ok thank you! My 6.0 came out of a 03 2500 Silverado and the engine I am planning on using is an LS1 out of a 2004 GTO
I don't see any reason it wouldn't work from looking at a wire diagram. I would ask the person that is going to program it before I was to deep into it though. Jerry
hi 👋 good afternoon 😊
Hi Alonso!
Was that $2700 for each engine or $2700 for both ?
That's the price for each engine. I wish it was for both! 😁 Thanks for watching!
Where do you get the pressure oiler?
I made that oiler from a air conditioning flush kit. I take the hose from my oil pressure gauge set and adapt it to use as an oiler. Here is a link to the kit I use. www.amazon.com/Conditioner-Canister-Flushing-Conditioning-Cleaning/dp/B0967DTH83/ref=asc_df_B0967DTH83/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=532866442045&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2208490688698039177&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023777&hvtargid=pla-1417247760434&psc=1
Is this the Holley 302-2 pan?
Yes it is. I see the price has come up on them a bit. Jerry
@UglyTruckExperience Ok thanks,
I bought a 2002 2500 with a 6.0 and 4L80E with 72k on it. I'm getting my parts list together to swap into my 81 square body.
What gauge wire are y'all running to power your stand alone fuse blocks, I cant find any info on that.
Are you asking about the wire going from battery over to the oem style fuse box?
@@UglyTruckExperience yes, I see you use the factory block. I was hoping y'all have done stand alone too.
When I use a factory fuse box I run a 6 awg copper strand wire to it. In a case where you are buying a fuse box and wiring your own circuits, you will need to figure out what it's amperage load might be. I will go with a supply wire that is 15 percent larger than what the box is pulling out of it. When In doubt. Use the next largest gauge wire. I probably over do things but when a wire is to big, it never causes a problem. When they are to small, that is a really big problem. Thanks
Hello I just primed my freshly rebuilt engine and drained the oil. The oil is glittery and theres small little metal shavings…Is my engine toast 😢 or is this normal? if this is not common where could i have gone wrong and is there anything i can do to prevent engine failure?
Hi Emmanwell, how did you prime the engine? Do the metal shavings stick to a magnet?
@@UglyTruckExperience I used a garden sprayer on the first oil plug on the driver side of the engine.They do stick to the tip of a magnetized flat head screw driver which isn’t the strongest magnet. They are pretty tiny though the, the biggest piece was a little metal Chunk but was still pretty tiny
If you have stuff in the oil after priming it, I would be concerned that those are pieces left in the oil galleys from the machining. I would keep those pieces and the oil, and take them to the machine shop you used and ask them their opinion. The machinists don't want anyone to have issues with an engine so they will usually give you the best advice they can. Hope this helps. Keep us posted.
@@UglyTruckExperience thank you so much, I really appreciate I’ll give them a call and ask
@@UglyTruckExperience Hello, I got in contact with the machine shop and they were not much help, he didn’t really give me a clear answer on what to do I took the oil pan, valley cover, oil pump and front cover off to see if there was anything that stood out, the cam does look to have some markings from the lifters rotating on it. When I rebuilt it I measured all the bearing clearances with plasti gauge the mains where at about .002 and all of the conecting rod clearances where all the same size jut a little tighter between 0.0015 and 0.001, I figured the machine would be more accurate then plasti gauge since they use micrometers they had all of the clearances measuring at 0.0018 and they orderd the bearings. I’m just wondering if those numbers sound about right? I went to this machine shop because they had good prices and It was recommended by friend but now I’m just second guessing everything and the work they did because I ended up changing the cam bearing myself because one of them had a gauge in it. I’m sorry if my questions are super long😅I would appreciate any suggestions I’m 6k into this motor and I don’t want it to fail 😞
👍🏾
Thanks Anthony
@@UglyTruckExperience I would share this but I am currently in FB Jail 🙃
What gen 6.0 is this ?
This a Gen 3 LQ4.
Why would you send the heads to a machine shop for surfacing and not do a valve job while its there. Cheap insurance.
Hello Anthony. I leave that up to the machine shop. If they called to recommend a valve job I would go that route. So far we have not had to do that. Thanks for watching. Jerry and Emily